Ferulic acid - A novel topical agent in reducing signs of photoaging.

Continuous production of reactive oxygen species, induced by UV radiation, is one of the main mechanisms contributing to skin photoaging. Therefore, the use of novel superior antioxidants, which ferulic acid belongs to, is an innovative treatment option. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 14% ferulic acid peel on skin hydration, topography, the level of melanin, and the severity of erythema, in people with skin photoaging symptoms. Twenty women aged 45-60, received eight treatments of chemical peeling in 1-week intervals. Efficacy was measured using The Multi Probe Adapter (MPA) Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany). The measurements were taken before, 8, and 12 weeks after the first treatment. Additionally, the photo documentation was made with Fotomedicus (Elfo) and VISIA® Complexion Analysis System (Canfield Scientific, Inc.). The objective evaluation showed statistically significant improvement in all measured skin parameters p < 0.05). The best results of skin hydration and melanin level were observed right after the end of the series (p < 0.001). The best improvement in erythema reduction was noted a month after the last treatment (p < 0.0001). At the control, untreated point none of the probes showed statistically significant changes. In conclusion, a series of treatments with 14% ferulic acid peel has a significant bleaching, erythema-reducing, and moisturizing activity. The results achieved by apparatus, are reflected by photo documentation. The effects achieved during a series persist over time.

Chitosan-Enriched Solution Blow Spun Poly(Ethylene Oxide) Nanofibers with Poly(Dimethylsiloxane) Hydrophobic Outer Layer for Skin Healing and Regeneration.

Chitosan (CS)/poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO)-based nanofiber mats have attracted particular attention as advanced materials for medical and pharmaceutical applications. In the scope of present studies, solution blow spinning was applied to produce nanofibers from PEO and CS and physicochemical and biopharmaceutical studies were carried out to investigate their potential as wound nanomaterial for skin healing and regeneration. Additional coating with hydrophobic poly(dimethylsiloxane) was applied to favor removal of nanofibers from the wound surface. Unmodified nanofibers displayed highly porous structure with the presence of uniform, randomly aligned nanofibers, in contrast to coated materials in which almost all the free spaces were filled in with poly(dimethylsiloxane). Infrared spectroscopy indicated that solution blow technique did not influence the molecular nature of native polymers. Obtained nanofibers exhibited sufficient wound exudate absorbency, which appears beneficial to moisturize the wound bed during the healing process. Formulations displayed greater tensile strength as compared to commercial hydrofiber-like dressing materials comprised of carboxymethylcellulose sodium or calcium alginate, which points toward their protective function against mechanical stress. Coating with hydrophobic poly(dimethylsiloxane) (applied to favor nanofiber removal from the wound surface) impacted porosity and decreased both mechanical properties and adherence to excised human skin, though the obtained values were comparable to those attained for commercial hydrofiber-like materials. In vitro cytotoxicity and irritancy studies showed biocompatibility and no skin irritant response of nanofibers in contact with a reconstituted three-dimensional human skin model, while scratch assay using human fibroblast cell line HDFa revealed the valuable potential of CS/PEO nanofibers to promote cell migration at an early stage of injury.

Naringenin as an opener of mitochondrial potassium channels in dermal fibroblasts.

Flavonoids belong to a large group of polyphenolic compounds that are widely present in plants. Certain flavonoids, including naringenin, have cytoprotective properties. Although the antioxidant effect has long been thought to be a crucial factor accounting for the cellular effects of flavonoids, mitochondrial channels have emerged recently as targets for cytoprotective strategies. In the present study, we characterized interactions between naringenin and the mitochondrial potassium (mitoBKCa and mitoKATP ) channels recently described in dermal fibroblasts. With the use of the patch-clamp technique and mitoplasts isolated from primary human dermal fibroblast cells, our study shows that naringenin in micromolar concentrations leads to an increase in mitoBKCa channel activity. The opening probability of the channel decreased from 0.97 in the control conditions (200 µmol/L Ca2+ ) to 0.06 at a low Ca2+ level (1 µmol/L) and increased to 0.85 after the application of 10 µmol/L naringenin. Additionally, the activity of the mitoKATP channel increased following the application of 10 µmol/L naringenin. To investigate the effects of naringenin on mitochondrial function, the oxygen consumption of dermal fibroblast cells was measured in potassium-containing media. The addition of naringenin significantly and dose-dependently increased the respiratory rate from 5.8 ± 0.2 to 14.0 ± 0.6 nmol O2  × min-1  × mg protein-1 . Additionally, a Raman spectroscopy analysis of skin penetration indicated that the naringenin was distributed in all skin layers, including the epidermis and dermis. In this study, we demonstrated that a flavonoid, naringenin, can activate two potassium channels present in the inner mitochondrial membrane of dermal fibroblasts.

A study of the activity and effectiveness of recombinant fibroblast growth factor (Q40P/S47I/H93G rFGF-1) in anti-aging treatment.

INTRODUCTION: Fibroblast growth factor 1 (FGF-1) is a powerful mitogen involved in the stimulation of DNA synthesis and the proliferation of a wide variety of cell types. Fibroblast growth factor 1 was genetically modified to improve its thermal stability and resistance to protease degradation without losing its biological activity. AIM: To study the impact of Q40P/S47I/H93G rFGF-1 on skin cells, its penetration through the skin and the evaluation of the rFGF-1-cosmetic product properties. MATERIAL AND METHODS: In vitro studies included the examination of primary fibroblast and keratinocyte viability after the incubation with rFGF-1. The penetration abilities of rFGF-1 in various formulations and carrier systems were examined ex vivo by the Raman spectroscopy. In vivo studies - HF Ultrasound and 3D Imaging System - were used to evaluate the anti-aging properties of creams containing rFGF-1. RESULTS: In vitro studies demonstrated that rFGF-1 strongly enhanced the viability of the treated cells. The Raman Spectroscopy analysis indicated that rFGF-1 encapsulated in lipid spheres penetrate through the stratum corneum to the depth of 60 µm, and added to the o/w formulation - could penetrate to a depth of 90 µm. The results obtained from Primos revealed the reduction of the volume and the depth of the wrinkles. Changes in the skin structure in the analyzed areas were evaluated by HF Ultrasonography. CONCLUSIONS: Recombinant FGF-1 strongly stimulated fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation. However, the transition of this protein through the SC required an appropriate carrier system - lipid spheres. All tests - in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo - have proved that rFGF-1 is a substance with a potentially wide spectrum of use.

Designing of Biodegradable and Biocompatible Release and Delivery Systems of Selected Antioxidants Used in Cosmetology.

Conjugates of antioxidants p-anisic (p-AA) and vanillic (VA) acids with nontoxic, biocompatible, and biodegradedable oligo-(R,S)-(3-hydoxybutyrate) carrier were synthesized, and their structural and biological characterization was performed. The molecular structure of the bioconjugates, in which antioxidants are covalently bonded with oligo(3-hydroxybutyrate) (OHB) chains, has been proven by mass spectrometry supported by NMR. The bioconjugate hydrolytic degradation studies allowed gaining thorough insight into the hydrolysis process and confirmed the release of p-AA and VA. In vitro studies demonstrated that all of the conjugates studied were well tolerated by KB and HaCaT cell lines, as they had no marked cytotoxicity, while conjugates with a relatively short OHB carrier are optimal to support keratinocyte function. The preliminary study of the biological activity confirmed the protective effect of VA-OHB conjugates against H2O2-induced lipid peroxidation in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). It was also demonstrated that the selected bioconjugates can penetrate all layers of the skin, which shows their functionality and opens up their potential application in cosmetology.

Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women.

BACKGROUND: Chronic solar irradiation results in both morphological and functional changes in affected skin. Superficial peels have been shown to improve all symptoms of photodamaged skin. OBJECTIVE: This study was designed to compare the efficacy and tolerability of glycolic acid (GA, 70%) with trichloroacetic acid (TCA, 15%) for the treatment of photoaging. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty female patients affected by photodamage were treated with graded concentrations of 70% GA and 15% TCA peel. Each patient was submitted to 5 sessions of these peels, with an interval of 14 days between each session. Four clinical parameters of surface evaluation of the living skin (hydration, elasticity, melanin, and erythema) were measured. The records were made before each treatment and 3 months after the last application. RESULTS: The statistical significance in each group of patients was observed with elasticity and hydration. Decrease in melanin content in the skin occurred significantly after the application of a series of treatments with GA. Increase in severity of erythema showed statistical significance after the treatment with TCA. CONCLUSION: Superficial peels, such as 70% GA and 15% TCA, proved to be an effective treatment modality for photodamaged facial skin. Both acids contribute to improvement of the photodamaged skin's parameters. Glycolic acid increases skin's hydration faster.

Structural characterization of biocompatible lipoic acid-oligo-(3-hydroxybutyrate) conjugates by electrospray ionization mass spectrometry.

RATIONALE: Currently, most of the antioxidants and free radical neutralizers used in cosmetic compositions are absorbed quickly into deeper layers of skin, and then carried away by the blood stream. It would be beneficial to delay the penetration of antioxidants to the deeper layers of skin to control their delivery and release. METHODS: Recently, growing attention has been paid to the attachment of cosmetics to specific polymer carriers. Biodegradable and biocompatible conjugates of oligo-3-hydroxybutyrate with lipoic acid were obtained via the anionic ring-opening oligomerization of (R,S)-ß-butyrolactone initiated by lipoic acid potassium salt. The structure of the resulting conjugates as well as their water-soluble hydrolytic degradation products were established at the molecular level by electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS(n)) supported by (1)H NMR analyses. RESULTS: The structural studies, performed with the aid of ESI-MS(n), confirmed that the lipoic acid was covalently bound to oligo-3-hydroxybutyrate chains through hydrolyzable ester bonds. Furthermore, hydrolytic degradation studies of the bioconjugates provided detailed insight into the hydrolysis process, allowing the identification of the degradation products and confirming the release of α-lipoic acid. Cytotoxicity tests demonstrated that the conjugates were non-toxic. CONCLUSIONS: Detailed molecular structural studies of new polymeric delivery systems of lipoic acid were performed by ESI-MS. ESI-MS proved to be an excellent technique for the evaluation of hydrolytic degradation products of the conjugates and for monitoring the release of lipoic acid. The results obtained contribute significantly to the characterization of biocompatible LA-OHB conjugates with potential applications in cosmetology.

The use of high frequency ultrasound imaging in skin moisturization measurement.

INTRODUCTION: The appropriate skin hydration level enables its normal function and healthy appearance. PURPOSE: The purpose of present research was to assess the applicability of high frequency ultrasound (HFU) to the monitoring of skin moisturization treatments. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The study sample encompassed 27 women, aged 20-67 y.o. (mean age of 45.48 y.o.) with dry skin. All women applied a strong moisturizing cream on their facial skin for 14 days. The course of treatment was monitored using the HFU. The following parameters were subjected to the ultrasound evaluation: epidermal echo thickness, dermis thickness, and separately the thickness of the superior and inferior layer of dermis. The measurements were taken on the participants' chins and cheeks. In addition, skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were determined. RESULTS: Statistically significant differences were obtained between the echogenicity of the superior layer of the dermis on the chin and cheek. After treatment, the statistically significant values of TEWL decrease and hydration increase were obtained on the cheek skin. No statistically significant differences between the TEWL or hydration levels were found on the chin. No statistically significant differences between the epidermal echo and dermis thickness values for the two measurement points were observed. CONCLUSION: The HFU is a useful method for the monitoring of skin moisturization treatments.

Imaging of the skin and subcutaneous tissue using classical and high-frequency ultrasonographies in anti-cellulite therapy.

BACKGROUND: The development of ultrasonography allowed for skin imaging used in dermatology and esthetic medicine. By means of classic and high-frequency ultrasonographies, changes within the dermis and subcutaneous tissue can be presented. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to show the possibilities of applying classic and high-frequency ultrasonographies in esthetic dermatology based on monitoring various types of anti-cellulite therapies. METHODS: Sixty-one women with cellulite were assigned to two smaller groups. One group was using anti-cellulite cream and the second group was a placebo group. The ultrasound examination was carried out before the initiation and after the completion of the treatment and evaluated epidermal echoes, the thickness of the subcutaneous tissue and the dermis, dermis echogenicity, the length and surface area of the subcutaneous tissue fascicles growing into the dermis, and the presence or absence of edemas. RESULTS: After the completion of the treatment, a statistically significant difference was observed. The most useful parameters were as follows: the thickness of the subcutaneous tissue, echogenicity, the surface area and length of the subcutaneous tissue, as well as the presence of edemas. The discussed changes were not observed in the placebo group. CONCLUSION: Classic and high-frequency ultrasonographies are useful methods for monitoring anti-cellulite therapies.

Determining the effectiveness of vitamin C in skin care by atomic force microscope.

This article presents the results of experiments, which examine cell mechanisms with the goal of confirming the effective action of the active ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics. Skin stiffness measurements with the use of an atomic force microscope on two forms of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and l-ascorbic acid) have been presented. The estimated Young's modulus for three types of cells (a control as well as cells treated with two forms of vitamin C) has shown significant differences in the stiffness of the tested cells which was confirmed in the histological staining experiment. The presented results indicate the dependence between collagen synthesis and the stiffness of cells treated with two forms of vitamin C.

Evaluation of selected skin parameters following the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate.

BACKGROUND: Ascorbic acid is a substance with confirmed anti-free-radical properties. It triggers the collagen synthesis, has a depigmenting effect and seals blood vessels. All these properties have a significant effect of the skin's appearance. The characteristic traits of capillary skin include telangiectasias as well as erythema, which might consolidate in the future, along with the feeling of burning and increased skin sensitivity. OBJECTIVES: Study and evaluation of selected parameters of capillary skin after the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate throughout the period of 6 weeks with the use of instrumental tests and questionnaires. METHODS: The research was conducted on a group of 30 women ranging from 30 to 60 years of age with capillary skin indicating visible signs of erythematous plaques. The concentrate was applied once a day. Analyses of skin conditions were conducted four times: before the launch of the research D(0), after two 2D(14), after four 4D(28), and after 6 D(42) weeks of application. The research was conducted with the use of Mexameter MPA equipment, which was used to measure changes in the intensity of erythematous plaques. The depth of wrinkles was measured by PRIMOS system (two times D0 and 6D(42). The research also used VISIA system which allowed to perform visual and numeral skin analyses. Each research was finalized with a questionnaire which provided a subjective evaluation of the examined product among participants. RESULTS: Significant reduction in erythema has been widely recorded. After 2 weeks, erythema dropped by 9%. After 4 weeks, it decreased by 16% and by 21% after 6 weeks. The concentrate's efficiency in diminishing erythematous plaques was confirmed by photographs generated by VISIA photograph system. Thanks to PRIMOS, decrease in both depth and volume of nasolabial folds was recorded in 87% of participants after 6 weeks of research. CONCLUSION: 5% vitamin C concentrate is effective in treating capillary and photograph-aging skin. It decreases erythema and telangiectasias as well as triggers the shallowing of skin wrinkles.

The assessment of the effect of a cosmetic product brightening the skin of people with discolorations of different etiology.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmentations are disorders displayed with a change in the color of the skin, its strange shape, the lack of symmetry, and irregular placement. They appear no matter on the age, gender, and often as a congenital defect. Disorder connected with overproduction of melanin by pigmentary cells. The change of color is due to endogenous and exogenous cause. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this thesis was to conduct a research in vivo. This will allow to judge the effectiveness of the cosmetic product which brightens the skin with hyperpigmentation problems. The characteristics of dermocosmetics were tested on people with various etiology of hyperpigmentation. The aim of the research was to assess the effect of the active substances used daily on skin hyperpigmentation. METHODS: The tests were carried out on groups of patients with hyperpigmentations. The application of the pharmaceutical and the use of specific apparatus measurements were taken on every medical checkup. A survey was conducted to assess the changes in the face, neck, and neckline skin. The research was based on the apparatus analysis of the skin condition (MPA® , VISIA® ). RESULTS: Regular application of the pharmaceutical caused brightening of hyperpigmentations (P < 0.05). General improvement in skin condition was also observed - the increase in skin elasticity, smoothness, and the enhancement of hydration levels. CONCLUSIONS: Dermocosmetics for people with hyperpigmentation are an essential part of their medical treatment. In case of epidermal hyperpigmentation, the recipe of individually chosen and tested combination of ingredients enables us to reach satisfactory results.

Roxithromycin-loaded lipid nanoparticles for follicular targeting.

Particulate drug carriers e.g. nanoparticles (NPs) have been shown to penetrate and accumulate preferentially in skin hair follicles creating high local concentration of a drug. In order to develop such a follicle targeting system we obtained and characterized solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) loaded with roxithromycin (ROX). The mean particle size (172±2 nm), polydisperisty index (0.237±0.007), zeta potential (-31.68±3.10 mV) and incorporation efficiency (82.1±3.0%) were measured. The long term stability of ROX-loaded SLN suspensions was proved up to 26 weeks. In vitro drug release study was performed using apparatus 4 dialysis adapters. Skin irritation test conducted using the EpiDerm™ tissue model demonstrated no irritation potential for ROX-loaded SLN. Ex vivo human skin penetration studies, employing rhodamine B hexyl ester perchlorate (RBHE) as a fluorescent dye to label the particles, revealed fluorescence deep in the skin, specifically around the hair follicles up to over 1mm depth. The comparison of fluorescence intensities after application of RBHE solution and RBHE-labelled ROX-loaded SLN was done. Then cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies were obtained in vivo and analyzed for ROX content, proving the possibility of penetration to human pilosebaceous units and delivering ROX by using SLN with the size below 200 nm.