Polylysine dendrigraft is able to differentially impact Cutibacterium acnes strains preventing acneic skin.

With a view to reducing the impact of Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) on acne vulgaris, it now appears interesting to modify the balance between acneic and non-acneic strains of C. acnes using moderate approach. In the present study, we identified that a G2 dendrigraft of lysine dendrimer (G2 dendrimer) was able to modify membrane fluidity and biofilm formation of a C. acnes acneic strain (RT5), whereas it appeared no or less active on a C. acnes non-acneic strain (RT6). Moreover, skin ex vivo data indicated that the G2 is able to decrease inflammation (IL1α and TLR-2) and improve skin desquamation after of C. acnes acneic strains colonization. Then, in vivo data confirmed, after C. acnes quantification by metagenomic analysis that the G2 cream after 28 days of treatment was able to increase the diversity of C. acnes strains versus placebo cream. The data also showed a modification of the balance expression between C. acnes phylotype IA1 and phylotype II abundances. Taken together, the results confirm the interest of using soft compounds in cosmetic product for modifying phylotype abundances and diversity of C. acnes strains could be a new strategy for prevent acne vulgaris outbreak.

A Dunaliella salina Extract Counteracts Skin Aging under Intense Solar Irradiation Thanks to Its Antiglycation and Anti-Inflammatory Properties.

Glycation, and the resulting buildup of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), is recognized as a key driver of cumulative skin damage and skin aging. Dunaliella salina is a halophile microalga adapted to intense solar radiation through the production of carotenoids. We present a natural supercritical CO2 extract of Dunaliella salina rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. The extract exhibited antiglycation and anti-inflammatory activities in ex vivo testing, showing strongly reduced formation of N-ε-carboxy-methyl-lysine with exposure to methylglyoxal, reduced AGE receptor levels, and significantly reduced interleukins 6 and 8. In a placebo-controlled clinical study under intense solar exposure, the extract significantly reduced the skin's glycation scores and its sensitivity to histamine; key skin aging parameters were also significantly improved vs. placebo, including wrinkle counts and spots. These results demonstrate the value of this Dunaliella salina extract, rich in colorless carotenoids, as an antiglycative, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging active ingredient, including in high-irradiation contexts.

A Tissue-Engineered Human Psoriatic Skin Model to Investigate the Implication of cAMP in Psoriasis: Differential Impacts of Cholera Toxin and Isoproterenol on cAMP Levels of the Epidermis.

Pathological and healthy skin models were reconstructed using similar culture conditions according to well-known tissue engineering protocols. For both models, cyclic nucleotide enhancers were used as additives to promote keratinocytes' proliferation. Cholera toxin (CT) and isoproterenol (ISO), a beta-adrenergic agonist, are the most common cAMP stimulators recommended for cell culture. The aim of this study was to evaluate the impact of either CT or ISO on the pathological characteristics of the dermatosis while producing a psoriatic skin model. Healthy and psoriatic skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly method of tissue engineering, using culture media supplemented with either CT (10-10 M) or ISO (10-6 M). Psoriatic substitutes produced with CT exhibited a more pronounced psoriatic phenotype than those produced with ISO. Indeed, the psoriatic substitutes produced with CT had the thickest epidermis, as well as contained the most proliferating cells and the most altered expression of involucrin, filaggrin, and keratin 10. Of the four conditions under study, psoriatic substitutes produced with CT had the highest levels of cAMP and enhanced expression of adenylate cyclase 9. Taken together, these results suggest that high levels of cAMP are linked to a stronger psoriatic phenotype.

A Rose Extract Protects the Skin against Stress Mediators: A Potential Role of Olfactory Receptors.

Olfactory receptors (ORs) are expressed and active in various human tissues, including the skin. Although the sense of smell plays an important physiological role in the regulation of mood and stress, a link between olfactive compounds, ORs, and skin stress has yet to be established. This study aims to investigate the role of newly identified skin ORs and agonists in the modulation of skin stress. Screening for odorant molecules was done with cAMP functional assay to identify OR agonists. RT-qPCR and immunofluorescence microscopy were conducted to identify and quantify ORs in epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and human skin explants, as well as to evaluate specific markers (G6PDH, loricrin, and γH2AX) of stress-induced skin alterations. A randomized double-blinded, split-face clinical study was performed on a panel of stressed women to measure the benefits of OR agonist treatment for skin. Three new ORs (OR10A6, OR2AG2, and OR11H4) were identified in skin. A specific Rose extract and its major constituent (phenylethyl alcohol) were found to activate these ORs. The extract composition was revealed by both GC/FID and GC/MS analyses simultaneously and showed the presence of 34 volatiles molecules. Moreover, epinephrine induces a skin stress response characterized by increased expression of G6PD, loricrin, and γH2AX biomarkers, and a decrease of OR expression. These effects were prevented in the presence of rose extract and its benefits were confirmed clinically by a decrease in the appearance of under-eye dark circles. Altogether, our findings suggest that ORs may represent a new, promising way to treat stress-associated skin disorders.

Unique natural exopolysaccharides for biomimetic protective effect against urban pollution.

Through natural selection, living organisms have evolved well-adapted survival strategies over time. The shallow salt waters of Moorea lagoon are the site of accumulation of microbial mats called "Kopara," in the native Polynesian language. This unique ecosystem is rich in film-forming exopolysaccharides (EPSs) secreted by microorganisms within the biofilm, as a mean to protect themselves from environmental stress (strong ultraviolet [UV], pH, salinity … ). Using blue biotechnology, a manufacturing process was developed to obtain an EPS with skin benefits. The active ingredient (EPS-229) protects against urban pollution, including free radicals, heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and PM2.5 (particulate matter with a size lower than 2.5 µm). METHODS: The anti-lipid peroxidation action of EPS-229 was studied in an in vitro UVB-irradiated keratinocyte culture model, using lipophilic fluorescent probe. The chelating properties of EPS-229 were evaluated in tubo in the presence of cadmium and lead. The protective effect of EPS-229 on pollution-exposed skin explants was investigated through quantification of released malondialdehyde (MDA) and histological observation of skin morphology using optical microscopy. Clinical evaluation of the protective and cleansing efficacy of a water solution containing EPS-229 (0.02% and 0.01% w/v, respectively) was performed, against placebo, on a panel of 18 volunteers. For these studies, the forearms of volunteers were treated with EPS-229 before (anti-adhesion affect) or after (cleansing effect) application of PM2.5 (iron particles of 1 µm). The presence of skin-adherent particles was observed and quantified by image analysis, using specific digital masks. RESULTS: In vitro, EPS-229 significantly protected keratinocyte cell membranes from lipid peroxidation. A decrease of 28% was achieved when a concentration of 0.001% w/v EPS-229 was applied to the cell culture. In tubo, EPS-229 also presented strong chelating properties. Maximal adsorption was estimated at 154 mg/g (1.37 mmol/g) of EPS-299 for cadmium and at 250 mg/g (1.21 mmol/g) of EPS-229 for lead. In the skin explant model of pollution exposure, EPS-229 (0.03% w/v) reduced MDA production by 44%, preserved cell integrity, improved dermal-epidermal cohesion, and normalized the collagen network. In vivo, treatment of skin with EPS-229 before exposure to PM2.5 created a protective film limiting particle adhesion. When used in a cleansing solution after exposure to PM2.5, EPS-229 formed a mesh that entrapped particles and removed them from the skin surface. CONCLUSION: Inspired by the French Polynesia Kopara unique ecosystem, a bioactive exopolysaccharide (EPS-229) has been developed that offers protection from environmental aggression. As a biomimetic shield at the surface of the skin, EPS-229 provides an immediate multiprotective action that efficiently fights the harmful effects of urban pollution and smog.

New targets in the battle against dandruff.

Dandruff is a scalp disorder characterized by flaking skin and itch of an excessive oily scalp skin. It affects 55% of the global youth and adult population. Seborrheic dermatitis is a similar scalp skin disorder with aggravated itchy rashes and flaking. Different factors are identified in the dandruff development: increased sebum production, uncontrolled fungal growth of Malassezia strains and individual reaction to pro-inflammatory environment, and the susceptibility to trigger an immunological response. Using in vitro and ex vivo models, we show that an Epilobium angustifolium extract dose dependently reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes to a maximum of -43% (1% extract), and protects the epidermis from Malassezia-induced morphological changes. Epilobium angustifolium extract also acts through innovative mechanisms involving regulations of defensins (human beta-defensins [hBD2] and hBD3) and toll-like receptor 2 involved in the immunological response of the skin. The anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating efficacy of E. angustifolium extract (1.5%) was confirmed in a clinical study that mobilized 24 volunteers with dandruff and greasy scalp for 30 days. At the end of the study, nonadherent and adherent dandruffs were significantly (p < 0.0001) reduced in average by -54% and -48%, respectively. Using Sebumeter® measurements, scalp sebum production was inhibited by -67% (p < 0.0001) in average over baseline. In conclusion, E. angustifolium extract offers a new innovative approach to dandruff reduction through immunomodulation of the skin response to Malassezia invasion.

Development of a new resistant liposome coated with polysaccharide film for cosmetic application.

The aim of our study was to elaborate a resistant liposome that can be used in cosmetic formulations containing high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. The stability of liposomes was increased via hydrophobized polysaccharide (Stearoyl Inulin) by anchoring its stearic acid tail into liposome bilayer. Coated and noncoated liposomes were prepared under the same conditions and their morphology, size, and resistance to surfactants and electrolytes were evaluated. We established that coated lipbsomes were more resistant to surfactants and electrolytes. It seems that a coating of polysaccharides prevents liposome destabilization in the presence of high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. Moreover, the ability of coated liposomes to improve the skin delivery of active molecules was evaluated. Coated liposomes increased the efficacy of magnesium chloride by improving its skin availability.

A new strategy to modulate alopecia using a combination of two specific and unique ingredients.

Male pattern hair loss is a major cosmetic concern affecting both genders with a preference for men. Major causes of hair loss in genetically predisposed individuals include hormonal dysfunction, loss of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins in the follicular bed, and localized microinflammation. Few options are yet available to correct the problem. For this purpose, a cosmetic active ingredient was developed by combining a Trifolium pratense flower extract and a biomimetic peptide and tested clinically for the prevention of hair loss. Thirty volunteers with recessing hair were recruited for this randomized, placebo-controlled study. Clinical efficacy, following daily topical application of the mixture to the scalp, was checked using TrichoScan™ for the measurement of human hair. Within 4 months of application, anagen hair increased at an average by +13%, telogen hair density decreased by -29%, and the anagen/telogen (A/T) ratio increased by +46% over baseline in the treated group. Results strongly differed from those of the placebo group (anagen, -2%; telogen, +23%; A/T ratio, -33%). Investigation of the potential mechanisms involved in the positive effects of the test product on hair growth pointed at inhibition of 5-α-reductase activity, reduction of inflammatory reactions, and stimulation of ECM protein synthesis in the vicinity of the hair follicle.

A novel dominant-negative mutant form of Epstein-Barr virus latent membrane protein-1 (LMP1) selectively and differentially impairs LMP1 and TNF signaling pathways.

The latent membrane protein-1 (LMP1) is an integral membrane molecule expressed by Epstein-Barr virus (EBV) during viral latency and displays properties of a constitutively activated member of the TNF receptor family. LMP1 is required for B-cell or monocyte immortalization induced by EBV and is sufficient to transform rodent fibroblasts. Transforming potential of LMP1 is mediated by its cytoplasmic C-terminal domain, which activates various cellular signaling pathways including NFkappaB and JNK. In this report, we constructed mutants of LMP1 with preserved membrane spanning domain but mutated in the C-terminal domain and a second truncated C-terminal LMP1 fused to the enhanced green fluorescent protein. This latter mutant, termed LMP1-CT, impairs signaling by ectopic LMP1 as well as endogenous EBV-expressed wild-type (wt) LMP1. In contrast to dominant-negative mutants of LMP1 with preserved membrane spanning domains, LMP1-CT was unable to bind wt LMP1 to form an inactive complex. Its dominant-negative effects were due to binding and sequestration of LMP1 adapters TRAF2 and TRADD as assessed by coimmunoprecipitation experiments and confocal analysis. The effect was selective since LMP1-CT did not inhibit IL-1beta-induced signaling, whereas it impaired TNF-triggered NFkappaB and JNK signals without affecting TNF-induced apoptosis. In addition and in contrast to LMP1 constructs with membrane localization, LMP-CT did not display cytostatic properties in noninfected cells. Importantly, LMP1-CT inhibited survival induced by LMP1 in an EBV-transformed T-cell line expressing the type II viral latency commonly found in the majority of EBV-associated human tumors. These data demonstrate that LMP1-CT is a new tool to explore the differences between LMP1 and TNF signaling and may facilitate the design of molecules with potential therapeutic roles.

Identification of two immunogenic domains of the prion protein--PrP--which activate class II-restricted T cells and elicit antibody responses against the native molecule.

Recent reports suggest that immunity against the prion protein (PrP) retards transmissible spongiform encephalopathies progression in infected mice. A major obstacle to the development of vaccines comes from the fact that PrP is poorly immunogenic, as it is seen as self by the host immune system. Additional questions concern the immune mechanisms involved in protection and the risk of eliciting adverse reactions in the central nervous system of treated patients. Peptide-based vaccines offer an attractive strategy to overcome these difficulties. We have undertaken the identification of the immunogenic regions of PrP, which trigger helper T cells (Th) associated with antibody production. Our results identify two main regions, one between the structured and flexible portion of PrP (98-127) and a second between alpha 1 and alpha 2 helix (143-187). Peptides (30-mer) corresponding to these regions elicit class II-restricted Th cells and antibody production against native PrP and could therefore be of potential interest for a peptide-based vaccination.

Grafting of synthetic mannose receptor-ligands onto onion vectors for human dendritic cells targeting.

A practical preparation of onion vesicles targeted to dendritic cells involves the grafting of mannose-mimetic clusters, bearing a hydrazino group, onto the surface of onion vesicles containing an aldehyde functionalized lipid.

An integral topical gel for cellulite reduction: results from a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled evaluation of efficacy.

BACKGROUND: Cellulite is a serious cosmetic concern for most of the 90% of women affected by it. OBJECTIVE: To assess the clinical efficacy of a complex integral anti-cellulite gel. METHODS: This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study involved 44 healthy women, aged 25-55 years. Subjects had a normal to slightly overweight body mass index and presented slight to moderate cellulite on their thighs, buttocks, and/or hips at baseline. Subjects were randomly assigned to either the treated or placebo group and accordingly applied the active product or placebo on their hips, stomach, buttocks, and thighs, twice daily for 3 months. Skin tonicity, orange-peel aspect, and stubborn cellulite were assessed at day 0, 28, 56, and 84. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed by all volunteers. RESULTS: At the end of the study, an average of 81% of the subjects applying the active product presented improvement in their cellulite condition versus 32% for the placebo group (all descriptors and sites combined). At day 84, skin tonicity, orange-peel appearance, and stubborn cellulite were improved in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, on all studied areas. Skin tonicity improved on average by +41% for buttocks, +35% for hips, and +31% for thighs. Orange peel appearance was reduced on average by -25% for buttocks, -22% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Stubborn cellulite was reduced on average by -19% for buttocks, -24% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Circumference measurements decreased in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, for the abdomen (average value of -1.1 cm) and thighs (average value of -0.8 cm). The product was well tolerated and perceived by the volunteers themselves as better performing than placebo on all criteria. CONCLUSION: All results validate the efficacy of the present integral formulation to significantly reduce signs of cellulite and reshape the silhouette.

Clinical efficacy of a serum integrating multiple cosmetic ingredients in the management of erythema of the face in aging skin.

BACKGROUND: Skin redness is a common cosmetic concern affecting predominantly fair-skin individuals and often leading to rosacea. On the basis of the current scientific knowledge of the physiological mechanisms underlying the problem, a complex and integral skin care serum (100RXED2025) was developed and tested clinically for efficacy. METHOD: Forty-five healthy men and women volunteers, age 30-65, were recruited. All subjects had fair skin (phototype I, II, or III) and presented some degree of skin redness with telangiectasia on the cheeks, the nose, or the nose sides, at baseline. In the course of this open label study, subjects applied the test product on their face, twice daily for 56 days. For each subject, skin redness was evaluated through colorimetric and visual analysis of photographs taken under cross-polarized light at T = 28 (week 4) and T = 56 (week 8), then compared to baseline measurements obtained at day 0. RESULTS: Forty-four volunteers completed the study. On visual evaluation, skin redness had decreased in average by 32.2% at T = 28 (P < 0.001) and by 48.0% at T = 56 (P < 0.001). Importantly, 91% of the subjects showed improvement of skin redness at T = 28, reaching 100% at T = 56. Colorimetric analysis gave an average reduction in redness of 11.6% at T = 28 (P < 0.001) and 13.7% at T = 56 (P < 0.001). CONCLUSION: The anti-redness efficacy of the test product was demonstrated after 28 days with further increase following 56 days of application.

Systemic immune responses induced by mucosal administration of lipopeptides without adjuvant.

We recently reported that parenteral injection of malaria palmitoyl-tailed peptides without adjuvant efficiently induces B, Th and CTL responses. We now show that intranasal (IN) or sub-lingual (SL) delivery of such lipopeptides induces strong systemic immune responses, as demonstrated by specific Th cell responses from the spleen as well as inguinal lymph nodes, and by the production ofhigh levels of serum antibodies. Overall, both types of responses were significantly higher than in parallel experiments in which the same lipopeptides were delivered by the subcutaneous (s.c.) route. Moreover, the mucosal route resulted in the preferential induction of IFN-gamma producing T cells and of IgG2a antibody production, as compared to the dominant IL-4 and IgG1 responses obtained by the s.c. route, thus bringing a distinct advantage in the field of many infectious diseases and allergy. Possibly related to this Th1 response, we found that dendritic cells, the principal immune-competent cells to encounter antigens within mucosal membranes, take up lipopeptide antigens more efficiently than macrophages. Mucosal immunization by lipidated peptides appears therefore as a novel, noninvasive vaccine approach that does not require the use of extraneous adjuvant and which, besides cost-effectiveness, has attractive practical and immunological features.

Two human immunodeficiency virus vaccinal lipopeptides follow different cross-presentation pathways in human dendritic cells.

An efficient vaccine against human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) must induce good cellular immune responses. To do this, it must be processed and presented by dendritic cells, which are required for primary T-lymphocyte stimulation. We have previously shown that a model lipopeptide containing a short epitopic peptide from HIV-1 was endocytosed and presented in association with major histocompatibility complex class I molecules by human dendritic cells to specific CD8(+) T lymphocytes, but the cross-presentation pathway needed to be precisely determined. We have studied a longer lipopeptide (Pol(461-484)) and another lipopeptide (Nef(66-97)) currently being used in vaccine trials. Like the shorter lipopeptide, the rhodamine-labeled Pol(461-484) lipopeptide was internalized by endocytosis, as assessed by confocal microscopy. The lipopeptides were processed by dendritic cells and presented to CD8(+) T cells specific for the HLA-A*0201-restricted Pol(476-484) and the HLA-A*0301-restricted Nef(73-82) epitope, respectively. Presentation of both lipopeptides was inhibited by brefeldin A. Presentation of the Pol lipopeptide was inhibited by epoxomycin, a proteasome-specific inhibitor, but not by monensin. This shows that it gained access to the cytosol to be digested by the proteasome. In contrast, presentation of the Nef lipopeptide was not inhibited by epoxomycin but was inhibited by monensin, a classical inhibitor of acid-dependent endosomal enzyme activity, indicating an endocytic processing pathway yielding to major histocompatibility complex class I-restricted presentation. Therefore, the two lipopeptides followed different cross-presentation pathways, both resulting in efficient presentation to CD8(+) T lymphocytes.