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1.
Langmuir ; 40(14): 7581-7594, 2024 Apr 09.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38530351

RESUMEN

Epicuticular wax is an example of a naturally created functional material that forms a layer on the outermost surface of plants with the objective to protect them from adverse environmental conditions, such as UV-solar radiation, uncontrolled water loss, microbial attacks, and so forth. Their functionalities are often attributed to the chemical composition of the wax as well as the physical structuration formed by the wax crystals on the surface. With this work, we present a simple, one-step biomimetic approach to replicate similar surface structures, on model substrate, using wax extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla wax). First, we describe formation of structured wax due to self-assembly induced by evaporative drying on quartz plates. Subsequently, we highlight the fundamental physical parameters required to tune the surface morphology. Our experiments reveal that it is possible to achieve considerably diverse surface morphologies depending on the solvent properties and deposition temperature. This diversity is due to the kinetics of recrystallization of wax during evaporation of solvent which, in turn, is primarily driven by the solubility of wax as well as evaporation rate of the solvent. Thus, the final morphology that we obtain is an interplay between recrystallization kinetics and solvent evaporation. Additionally, the degree of crystallinity of the structured films could also be tuned by solvent polarity. Surprisingly, X-ray diffraction indicates that the crystalline structure at the molecular level remains similar to that of bulk Candelilla wax. Our results provide fundamental insights into the replication of epicuticular wax films and identification of tuning parameters to obtain different surface morphologies with the same wax material for potential bioinspired multifunctional coatings in cosmetic applications.

2.
Phys Chem Chem Phys ; 25(3): 1768-1780, 2023 Jan 18.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36597804

RESUMEN

The substitution of natural, bio-based and/or biodegradable polymers for those of petrochemical origin in consumer formulations has become an active area of research and development as the sourcing and destiny of material components becomes a more critical factor in product design. These polymers often differ from their petroleum-based counterparts in topology, raw material composition and solution behaviour. Effective and efficient reformulation that maintains comparable cosmetic performance to existing products requires a deep understanding of the differences in frictional behaviour between polymers as a function of their molecular structure. In this work, we simulate the tribological behaviour of three topologically distinct polymers in solution with surfactants and in contact with hair-biomimetic patterned surfaces. We compare a generic functionalized polysaccharide to two performant polymers used in shampoo formulations: a strongly positively charged polyelectrolyte and a zwitterionic copolymer. Topological differences are expected to affect rheological properties, as well as their direct interaction with structured biological substrates. Using a refined Martini-style coarse-grained model we describe the polymer-dependent differences in aggregation behaviour as well as selective interactions with a biomimetic model hair surface. Additionally, we introduce a formalism to characterize the response of the solution to shear as an initial study on lubrication properties, which define the sensorial performance of these systems in cosmetics (i.e., manageability, touch, etc.). The tools and techniques presented in this work illustrate the strength of molecular simulation in eco-design of formulation as a complement to experiment. These efforts help advance our understanding of how we can relate complex atomic-scale solution behaviour to relevant macroscopic properties. We expect these techniques to play an increasingly important role in advancing strategies for green polymer formulation design by providing an understanding for how new polymers could reach and even exceed the level of performance of existing polymers.


Asunto(s)
Biomimética , Polímeros , Fricción , Polímeros/química , Tensoactivos/química , Polielectrolitos
3.
Int J Mol Sci ; 23(22)2022 Nov 09.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36430276

RESUMEN

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC.


Asunto(s)
Ésteres del Colesterol , Epidermis , Piel , Espectrometría de Masa de Ion Secundario , Imagen Molecular
4.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(5): 486-499, 2022 Oct.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35775314

RESUMEN

OBJECTIVE: To decode the feeling of skin tightness after application of a cosmetic product and how to soothe this discomfort. To pursue this aim, we considered the ingredient's effect on stratum corneum (SC) biomechanics to differentiate between consumers prone to tightness from those that are not and correlate these effects with mechanoreceptor activation. METHODS: In vivo clinical trials were used to assess the tightness perception dichotomy between groups of Caucasian women; in vitro experiments were used to measure the mechanical stresses induced in the SC after cleanser and moisturizer application; and in silico simulations were used to illustrate how the measured mechanical stresses in the SC result in the development of strains at the depth of cutaneous mechanoreceptors, triggering tightness perceptual responses. RESULTS: Before any cream application, women prone to tightness tend to have a more rigid SC than their less sensitive counterparts, however cleanser application increases SC stiffness in all women. Surprisingly, no correlation was found between tightness perception and hydration measurements by the Corneometer or barrier function, as evaluated by transepidermal water loss. Self-declared tightness and dryness scores were strongly associated with a self-described sensitive skin. After application of the optimized moisturizing formula, Osmoskin® containing natural waxes with good filming properties, consumers report a strong decrease in tightness and dryness perception. These results match with laboratory experiments where the cleanser was shown to increase SC drying stresses by 34%, while subsequent application of Osmoskin® decreased stresses by 48%. Finite element modelling, using experimental results as input, elucidates the differences in perception between the two groups of women. It makes clear that Osmoskin® changes the mechanical status of the SC, producing strains in underlying epidermis that activates multiple cutaneous mechano-receptors at a level correlated with the self-perceived comfort. CONCLUSION: Integration of the in vivo, in vitro and in silico approaches provides a novel framework for fully understanding how skin tightness sensations form and propagate, and how these sensations can be alleviated through the design of an optimized moisturizer.


OBJECTIF: Décoder l'impression de tiraillement de la peau après l'application d'un produit cosmétique et la manière d'apaiser cette sensation désagréable. Pour poursuivre cet objectif, nous avons pris en compte l'effet de l'ingrédient sur la biomécanique de la couche cornée afin de différencier les consommatrices sujettes à un tiraillement de celles qui ne le sont pas et de corréler ces effets avec l'activation des mécanorécepteurs. MÉTHODES: Des essais cliniques in vivo ont été utilisés pour évaluer la dichotomie de perception de tiraillement entre des groupes de femmes de race caucasienne; des expériences in vitro ont été utilisées pour mesurer les contraintes mécaniques induites dans la couche cornée après application d'un produit nettoyant et d'un produit hydratant; et des simulations in silico ont servi à illustrer comment les contraintes mécaniques mesurées dans la couche cornée entraînent le développement de souches à la profondeur des mécanorécepteurs cutanés, qui déclenchent les réponses perceptives de tiraillement. RÉSULTATS: Avant toute application de crème, les femmes sujettes au tiraillement tendent à avoir une couche cornée plus rigide que leurs homologues moins sensibles, mais l'application d'un produit nettoyant augmente la raideur de la couche cornée chez toutes les femmes. Étonnamment, aucune corrélation n'a été observée entre la perception de tiraillement et les mesures d'hydratation réalisées par le cornéomètre ou la fonction barrière, évaluée par la perte d'eau transépidermique. Les scores de tiraillement et de sécheresse auto-déclarés étaient fortement corrélés à une peau décrite par les sujets elles-mêmes comme sensible. Après application de la formule hydratante optimisée, Osmoskin®, qui contient des cires naturelles ayant de bonnes propriétés de dépôt de film, les consommateurs rapportent une forte diminution de la sensation de tiraillement et de sécheresse. Ces résultats concordent avec les expériences en laboratoire où le produit nettoyant s'est avéré augmenter les contraintes de séchage de la couche cornée de 34 %, tandis que l'application ultérieure d'Osmoskin® a réduit les contraintes de 48 %. La modélisation à éléments finis, en utilisant les résultats expérimentaux comme données, élucide les différences de perception entre les deux groupes de femmes. Il est clair qu'Osmoskin® modifie l'état mécanique de la couche cornée, et produit des souches dans l'épiderme sous-jacent qui activent plusieurs mécano-récepteurs cutanés à un niveau corrélé au confort perçu par la patiente. CONCLUSION: La combinaison des approches in vivo, in vitro et in silico fournit un nouveau cadre pour comprendre pleinement comment les sensations de tiraillement de la peau se forment et se propagent, et comment elles peuvent être soulagées en mettant au point une crème hydratante optimisée.


Asunto(s)
Emolientes , Pérdida Insensible de Agua , Emolientes/farmacología , Emolientes/uso terapéutico , Epidermis/metabolismo , Femenino , Humanos , Percepción , Vehículos Farmacéuticos/farmacología , Piel
5.
Skin Res Technol ; 27(4): 607-617, 2021 Jul.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33404155

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Hair fibers may be either oriented in a common direction or randomly arranged. Fiber arrangement as well as cosmetic treatment control the sensorial perception. The present study explores the respective influence of these two aspects by predicting the product performance in terms of tactile perception. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Friction forces between hair swatches of different curl patterns using a finger-like probe have been measured to better mimic real-life hair/finger contact. Measurements of fiber alignment, hair diameter (thickness), and compression tests were performed on natural and treated swatches to assess the respective weight of these parameters. RESULTS: Conditioned hair exhibit an adhesive behavior measured at the start of the frictional movement. Conversely, natural hair is influenced by fiber reorientation. After a few seconds, friction-related signals stabilize. Thus, the averaged friction forces do not only depend on hair thickness, but increase with a decreased alignment of the fibers. CONCLUSIONS: Intrinsic (diameter/curliness) and external (orientation/ friction/compression) characteristics allow to define a model of "macroscopic" roughness linked to the sensorial characterization. As friction of hair swatches depends upon fiber alignment and coating, this combined approach is potentially a very useful in vitro test, as an alternative or complementary method to sensory tests.


Asunto(s)
Cabello , Percepción del Tacto , Dedos , Fricción , Humanos , Propiedades de Superficie , Tacto
6.
Perception ; 50(8): 728-732, 2021 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34152243

RESUMEN

The oft discussed and fretted over environmental influences on hair have led to a popular consensus which suggests that elevated temperature and humidity lead to frizzier, wilder hair. However, few attempts at actually quantifying these effects have been made. Although frizziness is usually perceived visually, here the influence of variations in temperature and humidity on the tactile perception and friction of curly and straight hair were investigated. It is shown that changes in humidity may disproportionately affect perceived frizziness of curly hair by touch due to concurrent changes in the tactile friction.


Asunto(s)
Percepción del Tacto , Fricción , Cabello , Humanos , Tacto
7.
Soft Matter ; 16(20): 4823-4839, 2020 May 28.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32412035

RESUMEN

Autophobicity or pseudo partial wetting, a phenomenon of a liquid not spreading on its own monolayer, is characterized by an energy barrier that prevents the growth of a wetting film beyond the monolayer thickness. Applying a molecularly detailed self-consistent field theory we illustrate how autophobic wetting can be overcome by wetting additives. More specifically we use an emulsifier which keeps the interfacial tension between the wetting component and the majority solvent low, and a co-solvent additive which partitions inside the film and then destroys the molecular order in it so that the barrier for film growth is cleared. An application wherein it is believed that autophobic wetting is counteracted by such a set of wetting additives is found in an antidandruff shampoo formulation. We have experimental results that show thick deposits onto hydrophobic hair surfaces by administration of the antidandruff shampoo. The complementary modeling of such a system suggests that the active ingredient plays the role of the co-solvent additive. As significant amounts of the co-solvent additives are needed to approach the completely wet state, the formulation naturally brings large amounts of active ingredient to the root of the hair where its presence is required.


Asunto(s)
Etanolaminas/química , Preparaciones para el Cabello/química , Cabello/química , Modelos Moleculares , Piridonas/química , Humectabilidad , Adsorción , Biomimética , Caspa/tratamiento farmacológico , Combinación de Medicamentos , Emulsionantes/química , Humanos , Interacciones Hidrofóbicas e Hidrofílicas , Solventes/química
8.
Langmuir ; 35(48): 15573-15584, 2019 12 03.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31644298

RESUMEN

Natural surfaces may exhibit remarkable surface properties due to their structure. In the case of skin, its surface topography (microrelief) influences many of its perceived sensorial properties (shine, color, touch). Imprinted patterns can modify the original microrelief, inducing a completely new set of perceived properties. To explore the effects of superimposed biomimetic surface textures on the friction of skin, human stratum corneum was prepared with and without an imprinted regular, micrometer-sized, 3D grid pattern. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and optical profilometry indicated that the inherent, smaller-scale roughness of the stratum corneum remained when lines with heights of 20-200 µm and spacings of 600-2000 µm were introduced, but it was somewhat reduced on the grid lines. Surface Forces Apparatus (SFA) friction experiments on stratum corneum were performed at low speed (µm/s, back-and-forth sliding) and at more realistic, high speed (cm/s, rotational sliding). Two stratum corneum surfaces in contact did not adhere to one another, and they had a friction coefficient µ of 0.1, or lower, at low sliding speed. An interesting loading-unloading hysteresis was observed, with lower friction force on unloading, in particular, when the contact was on a grid line of the patterned samples. This suggests that the patterning locally induced different mechanical properties of the stratum corneum and that its recovery was not immediate on unloading. When one stratum corneum surface slid against a rigid glass surface, the friction coefficient was always higher than that when two stratum corneum surfaces were in contact. At high sliding speed, much higher friction coefficients were found between one stratum corneum surface and a rigid, smooth surface, µ ≥ 1. The results demonstrate that topograpic patterning by imprinting clearly modifies the tribological response of stratum corneum. This approach provides a simple method for exploring the development of biomimetic modifications of skin texture.


Asunto(s)
Epidermis/anatomía & histología , Fricción , Humanos , Humedad , Microscopía de Fuerza Atómica , Óptica y Fotónica , Propiedades de Superficie
9.
Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A ; 113(21): 5940-5, 2016 May 24.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27162354

RESUMEN

The complex mechanical properties of biomaterials such as hair, horn, skin, or bone are determined by the architecture of the underlying fibrous bionetworks. Although much is known about the influence of the cytoskeleton on the mechanics of isolated cells, this has been less studied in tridimensional tissues. We used the hair follicle as a model to link changes in the keratin network composition and architecture to the mechanical properties of the nascent hair. We show using atomic force microscopy that the soft keratinocyte matrix at the base of the follicle stiffens by a factor of ∼360, from 30 kPa to 11 MPa along the first millimeter of the follicle. The early mechanical stiffening is concomitant to an increase in diameter of the keratin macrofibrils, their continuous compaction, and increasingly parallel orientation. The related stiffening of the material follows a power law, typical of the mechanics of nonthermal bending-dominated fiber networks. In addition, we used X-ray diffraction to monitor changes in the (supra)molecular organization within the keratin fibers. At later keratinization stages, the inner mechanical properties of the macrofibrils dominate the stiffening due to the progressive setting up of the cystine network. Our findings corroborate existing models on the sequence of biological and structural events during hair keratinization.


Asunto(s)
Folículo Piloso/química , Folículo Piloso/metabolismo , Queratinas/química , Queratinas/metabolismo , Humanos
11.
Langmuir ; 30(41): 12124-9, 2014 Oct 21.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-25203784

RESUMEN

A chemical mapping with high lateral resolution using an atomic force microscope in the pulsed force mode with chemically modified tips, introduced as "dynamic chemical force microscopy" (dCFM), was carried out to investigate the chemical properties of the cuticle of human hair and its changes following an oxidative treatment. Chemically modified atomic force microscopy (AFM) tips, CH3- and NH2-terminated, were applied to achieve a defined chemical contrast (hydrophobic and ionic) in aqueous medium. A comparative Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy-attenuated total reflection identified the dominant chemical groups of the surface vicinity of the hair fiber resulting from the bleaching process. The combined experimental results lead to the conclusion that the hydrophobic top layer is partially removed after bleaching, resulting mostly in hydrophilic SO3(-) end groups at the top of the surface of the hair, with a mean surface density "δ(mean)" of negatively charged groups of approximately 2.2 molecules/nm(2), corresponding to ∼600 µg/m(2) cysteic acid. This indicates that thioester bonds are disrupted and fatty acids are removed as a result of cysteine oxidation. At the molecular level, our results indicate a clustered "self-assembled monolayer" alignment of cysteic acid with a crystal-like structuring, reminiscent of the "fluid mosaic model of cell membranes", with a surface energy of approximately 0.04 N/m. Despite previous extensive works of AFM on human hair, this is, to our knowledge, the first time that the hydrophobic and ionic sites at the top surface of hair have been imaged at the nanoscale with dCFM.

12.
Exp Dermatol ; 22(6): 419-21, 2013 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-23651342

RESUMEN

An atomic force microscope (AFM) and a tunable infrared (IR) laser source have been combined in a single instrument (AFM-IR) capable of producing ~200-nm spatial resolution IR spectra and absorption images. This new capability enables IR spectroscopic characterization of human stratum corneum at unprecendented levels. Samples of normal and delipidized stratum corneum were embedded, cross-sectioned and mounted on ZnSe prisms. A pulsed tunable IR laser source produces thermomechanical expansion upon absorption, which is detected through excitation of contact resonance modes in the AFM cantilever. In addition to reducing the total lipid content, the delipidization process damages the stratum corneum morphological structure. The delipidized stratum corneum shows substantially less long-chain CH2 -stretching IR absorption band intensity than normal skin. AFM-IR images that compare absorbances at 2930/cm (lipid) and 3290/cm (keratin) suggest that regions of higher lipid concentration are located at the perimeter of corneocytes in the normal stratum corneum.


Asunto(s)
Epidermis/metabolismo , Lípidos/química , Microscopía de Fuerza Atómica/métodos , Espectrofotometría Infrarroja/métodos , Absorción , Epidermis/ultraestructura , Diseño de Equipo , Humanos , Queratinas/química , Rayos Láser , Compuestos de Selenio/química , Compuestos de Zinc/química
13.
Langmuir ; 29(19): 5857-62, 2013 May 14.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-23565816

RESUMEN

The friction anisotropy of human hair has been investigated as a function of angle using AFM fiber probe measurements to evaluate the role of cuticle alignment. It is found that friction hysteresis, the difference in friction coefficients between sliding with or against the cuticle direction, is essentially nonexistent for native human hair. For damaged human hair, however, a clear friction hysteresis is observed, which appears to be a periodic function of the angle between the fibers. The implication is that antiparallel sliding is not in itself sufficient for friction isotropy but that lifting of the cuticle edges is required. A methodology to perform friction analysis independently for trace and retrace was therefore developed, which is applicable to any type of AFM lateral force measurement. It explicitly accounts for roll, noncircular cross section, and off-axis alignment as well as baseline drift, which allows real anisotropy in the friction coefficient to be deconvoluted from these artifacts.


Asunto(s)
Cabello/química , Anisotropía , Humanos , Microscopía de Fuerza Atómica , Tamaño de la Partícula , Propiedades de Superficie
14.
Polymers (Basel) ; 15(14)2023 Jul 12.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37514401

RESUMEN

This work investigates the effect of dilution on the phase separation process of binary charged polysaccharide-surfactant mixtures formed by two cationic polysaccharides and up to four surfactants of different nature (anionic, zwitterionic, and neutral), as well as the potential impact of dilution-induced phase separation on the formation of conditioning deposits on charged surfaces, mimicking the negative charge and wettability of damaged hair fibers. The results obtained showed that the dilution behavior of model washing formulations (concentrated polysaccharide-surfactant mixtures) cannot be described in terms of a classical complex precipitation framework, as phase separation phenomena occur even when the aggregates are far from the equilibrium phase separation composition. Therefore, dilution-enhanced deposition cannot be predicted in terms of the worsening of colloidal stability due to the charge neutralization phenomena, as common phase separation and, hence, enhanced deposition occurs even for highly charged complexes.

15.
PNAS Nexus ; 2(8): pgad240, 2023 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37614672

RESUMEN

Topical skin care products and hydrating compositions (moisturizers or injectable fillers) have been used for years to improve the appearance of, for example facial wrinkles, or to increase "plumpness". Most of the studies have addressed these changes based on the overall mechanical changes associated with an increase in hydration state. However, little is known about the water mobility contribution to these changes as well as the consequences to the specific skin layers. This is important as the biophysical properties and the biochemical composition of normal stratum corneum, epithelium, and dermis vary tremendously from one another. Our current studies and results reported here have focused on a novel approach (dynamic atomic force microscopy-based nanoindentation) to quantify biophysical characteristics of individual layers of ex vivo human skin. We have discovered that our new methods are highly sensitive to the mechanical properties of individual skin layers, as well as their hydration properties. Furthermore, our methods can assess the ability of these individual layers to respond to both compressive and shear deformations. In addition, since human skin is mechanically loaded over a wide range of deformation rates (frequencies), we studied the biophysical properties of skin over a wide frequency range. The poroelasticity model used helps to quantify the hydraulic permeability of the skin layers, providing an innovative method to evaluate and interpret the impact of hydrating compositions on water mobility of these different skin layers.

16.
PNAS Nexus ; 2(9): pgad292, 2023 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37771342

RESUMEN

Neural signaling of skin sensory perception from topical treatments is often reported in subjective terms such as a sensation of skin "tightness" after using a cleanser or "softness" after applying a moisturizer. However, the mechanism whereby cutaneous mechanoreceptors and corresponding sensory neurons are activated giving rise to these perceptions has not been established. Here, we provide a quantitative approach that couples in vitro biomechanical testing and detailed computational neural stimulation modeling along with a comprehensive in vivo self-assessment survey to demonstrate how cutaneous biomechanical changes in response to treatments are involved in the sensorial perception of the human skin. Strong correlations are identified between reported perception up to 12 hours post treatment and changes in the computed neural stimulation from mechanoreceptors residing deep under the skin surface. The study reveals a quantitative framework for understanding the biomechanical neural activation mechanism and the subjective perception by individuals.

17.
Polymers (Basel) ; 14(7)2022 Mar 25.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35406209

RESUMEN

Mixtures of polyelectrolytes and surfactants are commonly used in many technological applications where the challenge is to provide well-defined modifications of the surface properties, as is the case of washing formulations in cosmetics. However, if contemporary experimental and theoretical methods can provide insights on their behavior in concentrated formulations, less is known on their behavior under practical use conditions, e.g., under dilution and vectorization of deposits. This makes it difficult to make predictions for specific performance, as, for example, good hair manageability after a shampoo or a comfortable sensorial appreciation after a skin cleanser. This is especially important when considering the formulation of new, more eco-friendly formulations. In this work, a detailed study of the phase separation process induced by dilution is described, as well as the impact on the deposition of conditioning material on negatively charged surfaces. In order to gain a more detailed physical insight, several polyelectrolyte-surfactant pairs, formed by two different polymers and five surfactants that, although non-natural or eco-friendly, can be considered as models of classical formulations, have been studied. The results evidenced that upon dilution the behavior, and hence its deposition onto the surface, cannot be predicted in terms of the behavior of simpler pseudo-binary (mixtures of a polymer and a surfactant) or pseudo-ternary mixtures (two polymers and a surfactant). In many cases, phase separation was observed for concentrations similar to those corresponding to the components in some technological formulations, whereas the latter appeared as monophasic systems. Therefore, it may be assumed that the behavior in multicomponent formulations is the result of a complex interplay of synergistic interactions between the different components that will require revisiting when new, more eco-sustainable ingredients are considered.

18.
Adv Colloid Interface Sci ; 290: 102383, 2021 Apr.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33690071

RESUMEN

The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Cabello , Piel , Tensoactivos
19.
ACS Appl Mater Interfaces ; 13(25): 30086-30097, 2021 Jun 30.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34151554

RESUMEN

Natural biological surfaces exhibit interesting properties due to their inhomogeneous chemical and physical structure at the micro- and nanoscale. In the case of hair or skin, this also influences how waterborne macromolecules ingredients will adsorb and form cosmetically performing deposits (i.e., shampoos, cleansers, etc.). Here, we study the adsorption of hydrophilic flexible homopolymers on heterogeneous, chemically patterned substrates that represent the surface of the hair by employing coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulations. We develop a method in which the experimental images of the substrate are used to obtain information about the surface properties. We investigate the polymer adsorption as a function of polymer chain length and polymer concentration spanning both dilute and semidilute regimes. Adsorbed structures are quantified in terms of trains, loops, and tails. We show that upon increasing polymer concentration, the length of tails and loops increases at the cost of monomers belonging to trains. Furthermore, using an effective description, we probe the stability of the resulting adsorbed structures under a linear shear flow. Our work is a first step toward developing models of complex macromolecules interacting with realistic biological surfaces, as needed for the development of more ecofriendly industrial products.

20.
Exp Dermatol ; 19(11): 1014-9, 2010 Nov.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-21182673

RESUMEN

Corneodesmosin, a protein known to be present in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in its physical integrity. Here, a specific antibody to corneodesmosin was tethered via a flexible linker to an atomic force microscopy tip, and the interaction forces between this tip and the surface of the SC were successfully measured. Using the recently developed technique of simultaneous topography and recognition imaging, we were able to map the distribution of corneodesmosin on the surface of the SC at the nanoscale.


Asunto(s)
Epidermis/metabolismo , Glicoproteínas/metabolismo , Microscopía de Fuerza Atómica/métodos , Anticuerpos Monoclonales/química , Anticuerpos Monoclonales/inmunología , Anticuerpos Monoclonales/metabolismo , Reactivos de Enlaces Cruzados/química , Epidermis/ultraestructura , Glicoproteínas/inmunología , Humanos , Inmunoglobulina G/química , Inmunoglobulina G/inmunología , Inmunoglobulina G/metabolismo , Técnicas In Vitro , Péptidos y Proteínas de Señalización Intercelular , Unión Proteica/fisiología , Propiedades de Superficie
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