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1.
Cutan Ocul Toxicol ; 38(3): 212-220, 2019 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30935251

RESUMEN

Background: Poor ocular tolerance of sunscreens is partially responsible for poor compliance in use of sunscreens. A three-tiered approach for the testing of ocular tolerance for such products is described that includes an in vitro test for ocular irritation, an in vitro test for the activation of pain receptors, and finally a clinical study involving ocular instillation of the product under controlled conditions followed by ophthalmologic and subjective self-evaluation on a graded scale. We report the results for a new water-based facial sunscreen (SCFW) with very good ocular tolerance. Methods: The ocular irritation potential of SCFW was determined using the EpiOcular™ human cell construct which constituted the first-tier testing. Briefly, the tissues were exposed to SCFW and appropriate positive and negative controls for 15 minutes to 24 hours. After treatment, the tissues were rinsed and cytotoxicity determined. The calculated ET50 value (time at which relative viability decreased 50%) was then used to determine the ocular irritation potential. In the second-tier testing, the sting potential of SCFW was determined by employing the NociOcular assay that measures the activation of TRPV1 (transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1) specific receptors linked to pain sensation in a neuronal model with over-expression of functional TRPV1 channels. Finally, as the third-tier testing, SCFW was tested in a clinical study with instillation of product into the ocular cul-de-sac and ocular irritation was evaluated after 30 seconds, 15 minutes, and 60 minutes by an ophthalmologist. Participating subjects were also asked to score sensation on a scale of 0 to 3 from slight prickliness to severe stinging. Assay control reference product with known good ocular tolerability (10% baby shampoo) was concurrently tested. Results: In the in vitro topical application assay using the EpiOcular™ construct, no significant cytotoxicity was observed in the tissues exposed to SCFW, indicating minimal ocular irritation potential. In the in vitro NociOcular assay, the cells exposed to the prepared dilutions of SCFW showed minimal TRPV1 specific activity, indicating minimal ocular sting potential. In the in vivo study, no statistically significant differences were found in terms of subjective or objective eye irritation assessment between SCFW and 10% baby shampoo. Conclusion: SCFW showed negligible ocular irritation potential in tier 1, minimal potential to activate pain receptors in tier 2, and good ocular tolerability that was comparable to 10% baby shampoo in tier 3 testing. The results suggest that SCFW has good eye tolerance and that the tiered approach can be used to evaluate facial sunscreens for ocular tolerability.


Asunto(s)
Ojo/efectos de los fármacos , Protectores Solares/toxicidad , Anciano , Línea Celular Tumoral , Método Doble Ciego , Femenino , Humanos , Masculino , Persona de Mediana Edad , Canales Catiónicos TRPV/genética , Canales Catiónicos TRPV/metabolismo , Pruebas de Toxicidad/métodos
2.
Cell Mol Biol (Noisy-le-grand) ; 65(8): 39-47, 2018 12 31.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32133977

RESUMEN

Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces changes to the expression of hundreds of genes in the skin and modulates cellular signaling pathways that alter its structure, function and appearance. To counter these effects, we have developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) comprising melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and support new collagen synthesis. In order to better define its mechanism of action and gain insight into how it might influence the biology of photoaged skin, we performed a transcriptomic analysis of ex vivo skin explants that had been exposed to UV light and treated with 3-in-1 NFS each day for 4 consecutive days. Differentially expressed mRNAs and microRNAs (miRNA) were identified by RNA sequencing and a miRNA interactome was developed. Pathway enrichment analysis was performed to identify pathways likely modulated by 3-in-1 NFS. Our analysis revealed that the combination of active ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS exerted a synergistic effect on skin biology and modulated the expression of genes implicated in the regulation of collagen biosynthesis, angiogenesis, skin barrier function and cellular metabolism. Pathway analysis indicated that these events are driven by Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1α (HIF-1α) whose expression in UV-exposed skin was partially restored upon 3-in-1 NFS treatment. To our knowledge, 3-in-1 NFS is the first non-drug demonstrated to act upon this pathway in the skin.


Asunto(s)
Expresión Génica/efectos de los fármacos , Melatonina/farmacología , Palmitatos/farmacología , Fenoles/farmacología , Transducción de Señal/efectos de los fármacos , Piel/efectos de la radiación , Rayos Ultravioleta , Adulto , Sinergismo Farmacológico , Femenino , Expresión Génica/efectos de la radiación , Humanos , Subunidad alfa del Factor 1 Inducible por Hipoxia/genética , Subunidad alfa del Factor 1 Inducible por Hipoxia/metabolismo , Técnicas In Vitro , MicroARNs/metabolismo , Palmitatos/química , ARN Mensajero/metabolismo , Transducción de Señal/efectos de la radiación , Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Piel/metabolismo
3.
J Drugs Dermatol ; 17(12): 1310-1315, 2018 12 01.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30586263

RESUMEN

Objective: To evaluate the safety and efficacy of ISDINCEUTICS Melaclear® serum (Barcelona, Spain) on skin brightness, skin quality, and signs of facial aging. Design: This was a single-center, observational, open label, prospective clinical study. Ten healthy females (ages 30-70) with moderate signs of facial aging and moderate photodamage (hyperpigmentation and/or sun spots) were enrolled. Treatment consisted of topical twice-daily application of Melaclear serum, morning and evening, to the face and neck for 12 weeks. Efficacy assessments were conducted at weeks 4, 8, and 12. Standardized photographs, expert investigator grading, tolerability assessments, and subjects reported outcome measures were performed at all visits. Adverse events (AEs) were monitored throughout. Visual assessments of the face and neck included grading for radiance, smoothness, pigmentation, erythema, pore size, skin clarity, skin brightness, skin tone, luminosity, skin complexion, photodamage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkle severity, pigment via the modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), and overall global aesthetic improvement (GAIS). Safety and tolerability assessments included an evaluation of face and neck for stinging/burning by the subject and dryness, scaling, edema, and erythema by the treating investigator at all study visits. Results: All enrolled subjects completed the study. At the 8 and 12-week follow up visit, there was a statistically significant improvement in the investigator GAIS (1.1 and 1.3, respectively) for the face from baseline. MASI scores were all statistically significantly reduced in the face from week 8 onward relative to baseline. In addition, all skin quality parameters assessed in the face significantly improved from baseline to week 12. Subject global aesthetic improvement scale scores (SGAIS) were also significantly improved at week twelve from baseline (1.8 change) as were skin quality assessments. The average rating for patient satisfaction was 2, or "satisfied" with the overall treatment effectiveness from week 4 onwards. For the neck none of the investigator or subject assessments improved significantly at any time point. No adverse events, tolerability events, or unexpected side effects were observed or reported for any of the subjects. Conclusion: Twice a day treatment of women with moderate facial photoaging and hyperpigmentation with Melaclear serum can significantly improve skin quality, reduce the severity and intensity of hyperpigmentation, and improve signs of photodamage within 12 weeks without any side effects. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(12):1310-1315.


Asunto(s)
Fármacos Dermatológicos/uso terapéutico , Dermatosis Facial/tratamiento farmacológico , Hiperpigmentación/tratamiento farmacológico , Envejecimiento de la Piel , Preparaciones para Aclaramiento de la Piel/uso terapéutico , Administración Cutánea , Adulto , Anciano , Fármacos Dermatológicos/administración & dosificación , Cara , Dermatosis Facial/patología , Femenino , Humanos , Hiperpigmentación/patología , Persona de Mediana Edad , Cuello , Estudios Prospectivos , Índice de Severidad de la Enfermedad , Método Simple Ciego , Preparaciones para Aclaramiento de la Piel/administración & dosificación , Resultado del Tratamiento
4.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol ; 31(6): 324-331, 2018.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30199874

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Accumulation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) in skin has been associated with skin aging. Inhibition of glycation of proteins of extracellular matrix may help skin texture and appearance. The objective of the study was to demonstrate the antiglycation activity of topically applied carnosine and novel facial cream (FC) containing carnosine in human skin explants ex vivo. METHODS: Glycation was induced in human skin explants by methylglyoxal (MG) in culture media. FC containing carnosine (FC-CARN) or carnosine in aqueous solution (AQ-CARN) was applied topically on skin explants. Levels of AGEs carboxymethyl-lysine (CML) and pentosidine were determined in the epidermis and dermis of skin sections and were used to calculate antiglycation activity. RESULTS: Exposure to MG led to increases in CML and pentosidine in skin explants. Antiglycation effect for AQ-CARN was CML: -64 and -41%, pentosidine: -48 and 42% in epidermis and reticular dermis respectively. Antiglycation effect for FC-CARN was CML: -150 and -122%, pentosidine: -108 and -136%, in epidermis and reticular dermis respectively. CONCLUSION: Topically applied carnosine protects against the glycation induced by MG. Novel FC-CARN significantly reduced levels of AGEs in both epidermis and reticular dermis in human skin explants.


Asunto(s)
Carnosina/administración & dosificación , Productos Finales de Glicación Avanzada/metabolismo , Crema para la Piel/administración & dosificación , Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Administración Tópica , Adulto , Femenino , Humanos , Piel/metabolismo , Envejecimiento de la Piel
5.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 20(2): 513-521, 2021 Feb.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32583600

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Glycolic acid (GA) is an effective way of reversing the signs of age and photodamage. GA enhances desquamation of the stratum corneum and induces biological responses that can help restore skin's integrity. GA can, however, cause irritation, especially when its concentration is high, and its pH is low. Thus, most commercially available products for home use contain relatively low GA concentrations and are partially neutralized to a pH around 4. AIMS: The aim of this study was to determine the biological effects and relative efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing GA at concentrations ranging from 8% to 25% at pH 4 in human ex vivo skin explants. METHODS: Human skin explants were topically treated with gel formulations and oil-in-water creams containing 8%, 10%, 15%, or 25% GA, adjusted to pH 4, daily for 5 days. The degree of desquamation, their effect on cell proliferation, and their impact upon total collagen levels were determined 24 hours later. Levels of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) were measured after days 3 and 6. RESULTS: All formulations effectively induced desquamation in a concentration-dependent manner. Total collagen levels were increased at all concentrations, with greatest effects at higher GA concentrations. No effect on TNF-α expression was observed. CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that partially neutralized GA formulations retain skin rejuvenating properties without causing irritation and inflammation and that their use can be tailored to individual needs based on the concentration of GA in the formulation.


Asunto(s)
Glicolatos , Factor de Necrosis Tumoral alfa , Colágeno , Humanos , Concentración de Iones de Hidrógeno
6.
Toxins (Basel) ; 13(8)2021 07 21.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34437380

RESUMEN

The jellyfish species that inhabit the Mediterranean coastal waters are not lethal, but their stings can cause severe pain and systemic effects that pose a health risk to humans. Despite the frequent occurrence of jellyfish stings, currently no consensus exists among the scientific community regarding the most appropriate first-aid protocol. Over the years, several different rinse solutions have been proposed. Vinegar, or acetic acid, is one of the most established of these solutions, with efficacy data published. We investigated the effect of vinegar and seawater on the nematocyst discharge process in two species representative of the Mediterranean region: Pelagia noctiluca (Scyphozoa) and Carybdea marsupialis (Cubozoa), by means of (1) direct observation of nematocyst discharge on light microscopy (tentacle solution assay) and (2) quantification of hemolytic area (tentacle skin blood agarose assay). In both species, nematocyst discharge was not stimulated by seawater, which was classified as a neutral solution. In P. noctiluca, vinegar produced nematocyst discharge per se, but inhibited nematocyst discharge from C. marsupialis. These results suggest that the use of vinegar cannot be universally recommended. Whereas in case of a cubozoan C. marsupialis sting, the inhibitory effect of vinegar makes it the ideal rinse solution, in case of a scyphozoan P. noctiluca sting, vinegar application may be counterproductive, worsening the pain and discomfort of the stung area.


Asunto(s)
Ácido Acético/administración & dosificación , Mordeduras y Picaduras/tratamiento farmacológico , Cubomedusas , Primeros Auxilios/métodos , Escifozoos , Animales , Hemólisis/efectos de los fármacos , Intestino Delgado , Nematocisto/efectos de los fármacos , Agua de Mar , Especificidad de la Especie , Porcinos
7.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) ; 11(2): 315-325, 2021 Apr.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33582977

RESUMEN

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with an estimated prevalence of 10-15% in children and 2-10% in adults. Clinically, there is notable phenotypic variability driven by a complex interaction between genetics, immune function, and the environment. Impairment of the skin barrier plays a significant role in the pathogenesis of AD. The apparent beneficial effect of sunlight in patients with atopic eczema is questioned due to its capacity to disrupt the skin barrier and generate free radicals that can damage proteins, lipids, and DNA. The sum of the external factors that an individual is exposed to throughout their lifetime is termed the exposome. Environmental factors such as sun exposure, temperature, and humidity contribute to both AD flares and regional prevalence variation. Literature on photoprotection in atopic dermatitis is very scarce. The use of adequate sunscreens in atopic dermatitis can ensure the level of photoprotection required to prevent skin photoaging and skin cancer and to mitigate skin barrier dysfunction, decrease inflammation, and neutralize facial redness. Herein we discuss and review the role of UV radiation and the exposome in the etiology of AD, as well as the role of adequate photoprotection.

8.
J Invest Dermatol ; 141(11): 2569-2576, 2021 11.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34112516

RESUMEN

Visible light (VL) can induce pigmentary alterations, especially in dark-skinned individuals, and exacerbate photodermatoses and pigmentary disorders. Currently, there is no standardized method for assessing sunscreen protection against VL. On the basis of a critical review of published in vitro and in vivo methods, a VL photoprotection assessment method based on pigmentation is proposed.


Asunto(s)
Luz/efectos adversos , Trastornos de la Pigmentación/prevención & control , Protectores Solares/farmacología , Humanos , Trastornos de la Pigmentación/etiología , Especies Reactivas de Oxígeno/metabolismo , Rayos Ultravioleta/efectos adversos
9.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) ; 10(6): 1315-1329, 2020 Dec.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32915393

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Extrinsic factors, such as solar radiation and urban pollution, cause damage that alters the structure, function and appearance of skin. The aim of this study was to determine the ability of a night cream containing melatonin, carnosine and Helichrysum italicum extract (referred to here as Night Cream) to reduce extrinsic skin damage, and to evaluate the efficacy of this Night Cream to reduce clinical signs of age and photodamage under normal conditions of use. METHODS: Recovery from extrinsic damage was assessed by exposing human skin explants to ultraviolet (UV) A, infrared light, blue light or pollution and then treating the stress-exposed explants with Night Cream. Markers of oxidative stress were examined by immunohistochemistry. Anti-aging and calming properties were determined in four single-center, open-label trials involving 117 individuals. Subjects applied Night Cream to their face once nightly for up to 12 weeks. Improvements in clinical signs of age and photodamage, and reduction of lactic acid-induced stinging were evaluated by investigator assessment and subject self-assessment. RESULTS: Night Cream significantly reduced oxidative stress in human skin ex vivo. Clinically, hydration (+ 64.4%; p < 0.05) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values (- 10.0%; p < 0.05) were improved within 1 h of use. Wrinkle counts were reduced by up to 18.9% (p < 0.05), and brown and UV spot numbers by 5.5% (p < 0.05) and 13.2% (p < 0.05), respectively. Lactic acid-induced stinging was significantly reduced within 7 days of use, with 86.7% of subjects reporting that their skin felt calmer. CONCLUSION: These findings suggest that Night Cream reduces skin damage caused by environmental factors and that its nightly use can improve clinical signs of aging with additional skin calming benefits.

10.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) ; 10(1): 191-202, 2020 Feb.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31900804

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Photoaging is a complex process that is chiefly the result of oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV)-generated reactive oxygen species. To counter this process, we developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) containing a combination of direct and indirect antioxidants and polyphenols that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and stimulate dermal protein synthesis. In clinical trials 3-in-1 NFS improved the appearance of photoaged skin. In this study we sought to identify some of the main histologic changes responsible for this. METHODS: We performed an immunolabeling analysis of some of the salient epidermal and dermal proteins in 3-in-1 NFS-treated primary epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) and dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) in vitro, and in UV-exposed skin explants ex vivo. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells following exposure of 3-in-1 NFS-treated skin explants to UV radiation were also determined. RESULTS: We demonstrate that 3-in-1 NFS increases levels of filaggrin and aquaporin 3 in HEKs, and levels of collagen I and collagen III in HDFs in vitro. Levels of precursor procollagen type I and tropoelastin were increased in ex vivo skin explants. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells were significantly reduced in UV-exposed skin explants. These effects were only observed with the combination of ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS, suggesting that they have a synergistic effect on photoaged skin biology. CONCLUSION: Our results show that some of the histological hallmarks of photoaging are improved with the use of 3-in-1 NFS.

11.
Skin Appendage Disord ; 6(2): 108-114, 2020 Mar.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32258054

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Brittle nail syndrome is characterized by dry, weak, easily breakable nails that show inelasticity, splitting and overall nail plate fragility. OBJECTIVE: This paper describes in vitro and clinical studies using bovine hooves designed to assess the efficacy, compatibility and acceptability of a water-soluble nail strengthener (WSNS), containing Pistacia lentiscus and hyaluronic acid, for the treatment of patients affected by brittle nails. METHODS: In the in vitro study, the WSNS was tested versus placebo and a marketed product on bovine hoof membranes, applied once daily for 14 days for evaluation of firmness, viscoelasticity and thickness before and after applications. In a clinical study, 23 female subjects affected by brittle nails were included, and the WSNS was applied once daily for 3 months. Signs and symptoms were rated by the investigators and by the participants during treatment at 28 and 84 days with different methods and dermoscopic images. Subjective efficacy was evaluated by specific questionnaires. RESULTS: In the in vitro study, the daily application of the WSNS and marketed product led to a significant increase in firmness index. In the clinical study, the nails on the treated hand presented an improvement in nail appearance and weakness, after 28 and 84 days of WSNS application, respectively. The nails not treated showed no improvement. The WSNS was well tolerated. CONCLUSIONS: The WSNS containing Pistacia lentiscus and hyaluronic acid was shown to significantly increase nail firmness in the in vitro study. In the clinical study, WSNS significantly improved brittle nail appearance. The hydrosolubility and easy-to-apply format of WSNS were reported to be factors of a good compliance. We consider this product as an important tool to improve and reinforce the aspect of brittle nails.

12.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) ; 9(3): 571-578, 2019 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31278482

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Seborrheic dermatitis (SEBD) is a chronic, recurrent skin disorder that typically occurs as an inflammatory response to fungi of the genus Malassezia. The development of an ex vivo model that mimics the fungal proliferation and skin inflammation of SEBD would play an important role in screening formulations for their efficacy in treating SEBD. METHODS: An ex vivo model for SEBD using human skin explants that had been mechanically manipulated to facilitate colonization of Malassezia furfur was developed. This model was used to evaluate the efficacy of a novel non-steroidal facial cream (NSFC) in inhibiting M. furfur proliferation and reducing inflammatory cytokine levels. RESULTS: This model reproduced some of the key pathological features of SEBD, including M. furfur proliferation and inflammatory cytokine production. Topical application of NSFC facial cream reduced M. furfur counts by 92% (p < 0.05) and levels of interleukin 8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) by 82% and 40%, respectively (p < 0.05, both). CONCLUSION: The proposed ex vivo model for SEBD could be a useful tool to evaluate topical antifungal treatments. The novel NSFC tested in this study reduced M. furfur proliferation and inflammatory cytokine levels following topical application and may be helpful in the management of SEBD. FUNDING: ISDIN.

13.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol ; 12: 533-544, 2019.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31413615

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an established cause of skin aging, and the role of pollution is increasingly acknowledged. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of an antipollution and anti-aging suncare product in in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. METHODS: We assessed 1) sunburn cell (SBC) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation and gene expression profile in reconstructed human epidermis following solar irradiation, 2) malondialdehyde (MDA) level, Nrf2 immunostaining, and genetic expression in skin explants exposed to pollution, 3) carbon particle adhesion to healthy forearm skin in a clinical study, and 4) skin firmness, elasticity, and pigmentation spots in healthy women following 56 days of application. RESULTS: 1) The product fully protected against CPD formation, and provided a high protection against SBC formation, with levels close to non-irradiated samples. Expression of genes encoding pro-inflammatory and oxidative stress response markers was lower in product-treated than untreated skin. 2) Compared with pollution-exposed untreated controls, product-treated skin had 23% lower MDA levels (P<0.01), weaker Nrf2 immunostaining, and attenuated upregulation of CYP1A1. 3) The product significantly decreased adhesion of carbon particles to the skin (15.2% less than control; P<0.01). 4) Clinically, product use led to a decrease in brown spots, with a relative reduction in the count of -1.9% (NS), and in area, -5.0% (P<0.01), and decrease in UV spots, with a relative reduction of -6.9% (P<0.01) and -9.3% (P=0.02) for count and area, respectively. Firmness increased significantly by 14.1% (P<0.01). Participants reported skin was more even in tone (80%), more moisturized (93%), and firmer (74%). CONCLUSION: This water-based anti-aging SPF50 suncare formulation containing photolyase encapsulated in liposome, active biopeptides, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid provides multifaceted protection and repair action against pollution and UV-induced skin aging, ideal for everyday use.

14.
Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) ; 9(1): 103-115, 2019 Mar.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30674003

RESUMEN

Chronic exposure to solar radiation is associated with an increased incidence of skin cancer worldwide and more specifically with non-melanoma skin cancers and actinic keratosis. At the cellular level DNA damage is the main event following ultraviolet (UV) exposure. The kind of lesions produced depends on the wavelength and the energy profile of the radiation, with different photoproducts being formed as a result. Although endogenous DNA repair mechanisms are somewhat effective in repairing DNA, some DNA damage persists and can accumulate with chronic exposure. UV protection strategies, such as sunscreen use, are important in limiting further DNA damage. Several published studies have demonstrated the protective effect that regular use of sunscreen can have against the development of skin cancers. Newer options that aim to help repair damaged DNA may have an important role in reducing the incidence of chronic sun exposure-related photoaging and non-melanoma skin cancers. Photolyase, which is capable of repairing cyclobutane dimers formed as a result of DNA irradiation, is one such novel ingredient. In the first part of this paper we review the rationale for a combined treatment approach of photoprotection and photorepair with photolyase. In the second part we evaluate several published clinical studies, which suggest a beneficial effect in preventing new skin lesions in photodamaged skin. A strategy of photoprotection plus photorepair appears to be relevant for all persons with a high level of solar exposure and those at a higher risk for developing skin cancers.

15.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol ; 11: 571-578, 2018.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30519068

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: The effects of pollution on health have received increasing attention in recent years. Extrinsic skin aging occurs via multiple processes, and pollution is now recognized as a major component, causing increased pigmentation and wrinkles via oxidative mechanisms. We tested the antipollution efficacy of a cosmetic facial cream (FC) by assessing its effects on carbon particle adhesion to skin and on oxidative and inflammatory pathways in the skin. METHODS: In an in vivo study, FC was applied once to the forearms of healthy subjects. Carbon E153 powder was applied, and the skin was washed under standardized conditions. Images were taken using a dermoscope to determine the area of particle adherence. Each participant served as their own control, with the contralateral forearm being untreated with the FC but otherwise following the same protocol. In a 5-day ex vivo study, skin explants were treated with the FC daily and exposed to vaporized pollutants on day 2 and day 4 via a closed system. Explants were sampled at baseline and day 5 and culture media on day 5. The parameters evaluated were cellular viability on microscopy, Nrf2 immunostaining, malondialdehyde (MDA) levels in culture, melanin levels, and gene expression profile (TYR, IL6, and CYP1A1). RESULTS: In the in vivo adhesion study, after standardized washing, carbon particle deposition on skin treated with the FC was significantly lower than that on untreated skin. In the ex vivo study, samples treated with the FC had reduced Nrf2 staining and MDA levels vs polluted controls. Melanin did not change significantly. The FC modulated pollution-induced increases in CYP1A1, IL-6, and TYR. CONCLUSION: This FC reduces particle adhesion to skin after a single application and protects against pollution-induced oxidative and inflammatory pathways in the skin.

16.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol ; 11: 253-263, 2018.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29881301

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: With age, decreasing dermal levels of proteoglycans, collagen, and elastin lead to the appearance of aged skin. Oxidation, largely driven by environmental factors, plays a central role. AIM: The aim of this study was to assess the antiaging efficacy of a topical serum containing L-Ascorbic acid, soluble proteoglycans, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and a tripeptide in ex vivo and in vivo clinical studies. METHODS: Photoaging and photo-oxidative damage were induced in human skin explants by artificial solar radiation. Markers of oxidative stress - reactive oxygen species (ROS), total glutathione (GSH), and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) - were measured in serum-treated explants and untreated controls. Chronological aging was simulated using hydrocortisone. In both ex vivo studies, collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans were determined as measures of dermal matrix degradation. In women aged 21-67 years, hydration was measured up to 24 hours after a single application of serum, using Corneometer and hygrometer. Subjects' perceptions of efficacy and acceptability were assessed via questionnaire after once-daily serum application for 4 weeks. Studies were performed under the supervision of a dermatologist. RESULTS: In the photoaging study, irradiation induced changes in ROS, CPD, GSH, collagen, and elastin levels; these changes were reversed by topical serum application. The serum also protected against hydrocortisone-induced reduction in collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan levels, which were significantly higher in the serum-treated group vs untreated hydrocortisone-control explants. In clinical studies, serum application significantly increased skin moisture for 6 hours. Healthy volunteers perceived the product as efficient in making the skin brighter, more hydrated, and decreasing wrinkles and wished to continue using it. The serum was well tolerated and noncomedogenic. CONCLUSION: The serum protected against oxidative damage and dermal protein loss caused by photo- and chronological aging in human skin explants. In-vivo, the serum hydrated skin for 6 hours, and users perceived increased skin brightness, hydration, and fewer wrinkles.

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