Interactions between Damaged Hair Keratin and Juglone as a Possible Restoring Agent: A Vibrational and Scanning Electron Microscopy Study.

Juglone, a quinonic compound present in walnut extracts, was proposed as a restoring agent for hair keratin treated with permanent or discoloration processes. The proposed mechanism of restoration by juglone involves the formation of a Michael adduct between the quinone and the thiol moieties of cysteine residues. To this purpose, the first part of the present paper involved the spectroscopic study of the product of the reaction between juglone and N-acetyl-L-cysteine as a model compound. IR spectroscopy and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) monitored the chemical and morphological variations induced by applying juglone to hair keratin. In order to simulate the most common hair treatments (i.e., permanent and discoloration), juglone was applied to hair that had been previously treated with a reducing agent, i.e., methyl thioglycolate (MT) or with bleaching agents (based on hydrogen peroxide and persulfates) followed by sodium hydrogen sulfite. IR spectroscopy allowed us to monitor the formation of Michael adducts between juglone and cysteine residues: the Michael adducts' content was related to the cysteine content of the samples. In fact, MT and sodium hydrogen sulfite favored the reduction of the disulfide bonds and increased the content of free cysteine residues, which can react with juglone. SEM analyses confirmed the trend observed by IR spectroscopy since hair samples treated with juglone adopted a more regular hair surface and more imbricated scales, thus supporting the possible use of juglone as a restoring agent for damaged hair keratins.

Vibrational Raman and IR data on brown hair subjected to bleaching.

Brown human hair was bleached three times (45 min × 3) and four times (45 min × 3 + 15 min) with commercial formulations containing persulfate salts and hydrogen peroxide. The hair samples were characterized by Raman and IR spectroscopy in the Attenuated Total Reflectance (ATR) mode to gain more insights into the possible secondary structure and Cα-Cß-S-S-Cß-Cα conformational changes induced by bleaching. The latter were evaluated through band-fitting procedures; the relative content of the disulfide bridges and oxidized sulfur species (cysteic acid, Bunte salt, cystine oxides) was assessed. The observed conformational changes could be significant in developing restoring agents to be used after hair decoloration. The use of two different spectroscopic techniques allowed to discriminate the information coming from the cortical region of hair (Raman) and the cuticle (ATR/IR). This article refers to "Structural investigation on damaged hair keratin treated with α,ß-unsaturated Michael acceptors used as repairing agents" (Di Foggia et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 167 (2021) 620-632 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.11.194).

Structural investigation on damaged hair keratin treated with α,ß-unsaturated Michael acceptors used as repairing agents.

Many restoring formulations for damaged hair keratin have been developed. Some patents claim that the hair repair occurs through the reconstruction of disulfide bridges of keratin, through α,ß-unsaturated Michael acceptors, such as shikimic acid and bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate. To gain more insights into the possible repairing mechanism, this study is aimed at assessing, by IR and Raman spectroscopies coupled to scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the structural changes induced in keratin from bleached hair by the treatment with commercial reconstructive agents as well as shikimic acid and dimethyl maleate, chosen as model compounds. Vibrational spectroscopy revealed that shikimic acid- and maleate-based restoring agents interacted with hair fibers modifying both their cortex and cuticle regions. None of the investigated treatments induced an increase in the SS disulfide bridges content of the hair cortex, although it cannot be excluded that this phenomenon could have occurred in the cuticle. SS rearrangements were found to occur. None of our results can be interpreted as direct evidence of the sulfa-Michael reaction/cross-linking. From a morphological point of view, beneficial effects of the restoring agents were observed by SEM analyses, in terms of a more regular hair surface and more imbricated scales.