Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations.

Cosmetics procedures and products combined with environmental insults and daily routines induce irreversible changes in hair. As result of damage, the hair loses some of its properties like strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Recent studies revealed the positive effects of protein-based cosmetics in providing protection to hair. Additionally, these cosmetic products have also shown a great ability to modify hair fibers. We review the effect of protein-based cosmetic formulations on hair properties like color, scent, strength, shape, and volume, highlighting the potential of keratin-based particles and keratin-fusion proteins. In the future, incorporating multifunctional proteins and peptides in the development of alternative hair formulations will result in advanced, sustainable, ecofriendly cosmetic products with a great impact on the cosmetic industry.

Changing the shape of wool yarns via laccase-mediated grafting of tyrosine.

The shape of wool yarns was changed by laccase-assisted grafting of tyrosine. Prior to tyrosine grafting a cysteine pre-treatment was optimized aiming to increase the amount of thiol reaction groups available. The best operational conditions for laccase-assisted tyrosine grafting were: i) pre-treatment with cysteine (2.2 mM) in a solution of 20 % ethanol, 15 % propylene glycol and 0.5 % benzyl alcohol, pH = 10, 40 °C; ii) tyrosine grafting with 3.0 mM tyrosine, 18 U/mL laccase, pH = 5, 40 °C. The shape modification was evaluated by number of curly twists determination on the grafted yarn samples. The thermal and mechanical properties of the grafted wool yarns was evaluated by TGA, DSC and breaking strength determination. The amount of free thiols and weight gain were assessed aiming to infer the role of the cysteine pre-treatment on the final tyrosine grafting and shape modification. The laccase-assisted grafting of tyrosine onto wool yarns have influenced the thermal and mechanical properties of the yarns however without compromising their structural integrity for the final application purposes. The developed methodology to impart new shape to wool yarns is presented herein as an environmentally friendly alternative to chemical methods. The new findings revealed great potentialities for application in similar fibers like hair.

Poloxamer 407 based-nanoparticles for controlled release of methotrexate.

Poloxamer 407 (P407)-based nanoparticles were produced by the high pressure homogenization method for the encapsulation and delivery of methotrexate (MTX), aiming intravenous therapeutic applications. The surface of these nanoparticles was functionalized by conjugation of P407 with folic acid (FA) or with MTX, which served as targeting ligand agents. MTX-P407 conjugate was also developed to increase the final drug cargo. Two hydrophobic derivatives of MTX, MTX di-ethylated ester (MTX-OEt) and the ionic complex MTX-dimethyldioctadecylammonium bromide (MTX-DODAB) were produced and entrapped onto P407-based nanoparticles. All formulations developed revealed a monodisperse character comprising small and narrow nanoparticles (<100 nm). P407 nanoparticles (functionalized with FA) and MTX-P407 nanoparticles, both loaded with MTX-OEt, demonstrated a slow drug release profile. The effect of lipase from Aspergillus oryzae on the hydrolysis of the linkage between the P407 and MTX, and consequent MTX release profile, was also evaluated. We observed a controlled and slow release of MTX (<50% of release after 11 days) in the presence of enzyme. These MTX-P407 nanoparticles loaded with MTX-OEt induced a great effect against Caco-2 cancer cells (≈40% of cell death after 72 h of incubation), demonstrating higher efficiency than the free MTX at the same concentration.

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules.

The present research relates to a fusion protein comprising a chromogenic blue ultramarine protein (UM) bound to a keratin-based peptide (KP). The KP-UM fusion protein explores UM chromogenic nature together with KP affinity towards hair. For the first time a fusion protein with a chromogenic nature is explored as a hair coloring agent. The KP-UM protein colored overbleached hair, being the color dependent on the formulation polarity. The protein was able to bind to the hair cuticle and even to penetrate throughout the hair fibre. Molecular dynamics studies demonstrated that the interaction between the KP-UM protein and the hair was mediated by the KP sequence. All the formulations recovered the mechanical properties of overbleached hair and KP-UM proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes. Although based on a chromogenic non-fluorescent protein, the KP-UM protein presented a photoswitch phenomenon, changing from chromogenic to fluorescent depending on the wavelength selected for excitation. KP-UM protein shows the potential to be incorporated in new eco-friendly cosmetic formulations for hair coloration, decreasing the use of traditional dyes and reducing its environmental impact.

Ultrasound-Assisted Encapsulation of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis Linneo.) Oil in Alginate-Chitosan Nanoparticles.

Sacha inchi oil is rich in essential and non-essential fatty acids and other types of bioactive agents like tocopherols and polyphenolic compounds, which are very well-known antioxidants. In this study, the encapsulation of sacha inchi oil in alginate (AL) and chitosan (CS) nanoparticles was achieved with the assistance of high-intensity ultrasound. Nanoemulsion is the most effective delivery and high stability system for lipophilic bioactive agents. Chitosan and surfactant concentrations were varied to study their effect on particle formulations. Size, zeta-potential, polydispersity, and stability of particles were determined in time to optimize the preparation conditions. Sacha inchi oil encapsulated in AL-CS nanoparticles showed a higher loading efficiency and stability for short and long periods compared with other vegetable oils such as olive and soybean. Also, because of the types of tocopherols present in sacha inchi oil (γ- and δ-tocopherols), a much higher antioxidant activity (95% of radical reduction in 15 min) was found in comparison with nanocapsules with olive oil, which contain α-tocopherols. The particles showed high efficiency of protein loading at high concentration of bovine serum albumin (BSA) and a low rate of leaching profiles in various testing media like simulated gastric and intestinal fluids with/without enzymes, that is, pepsin 0.1% (w/v) and pancreatin 0.1% (w/v), respectively.

PTS micelles for the delivery of hydrophobic methotrexate.

Polyoxyethanyl-α-tocopheryl sebacate (PTS) is an amphiphilic compound with self-emulsifying properties known to form micelles. In this work, we report the production of PTS micelles for the encapsulation and delivery of a hydrophobic derivative of methotrexate, MTX di-ethylated (MTX-OEt). We optimized the micelles production by testing two different techniques: auxiliary solvent and sonication. Small and homogeneous micelles (≈40 nm) were obtained through the auxiliary solvent method performed at 30 °C and using 15 mg/mL of PTS. The produced micelles with the most promising physicochemical properties did not induce cytotoxicity when tested in normal human cells (BJ5ta cells), being considered for the encapsulation of MTX-OEt. This prodrug was achieved by Fisher esterification using ethanol, being isolated in good yield (η = 68%). MTX-OEt was efficiently encapsulated onto the produced micelles which preserved their physicochemical properties. The PTS micelles loaded with MTX-OEt, free MTX-OEt and free unmodified MTX revealed similar biological effect against cancer cells (Caco-2 cells). These results demonstrated that the biological activity of MTX is not altered after modification. The developed PTS micelles revealed a promising intracellular delivery performance with potentiality for cancer therapy.

Protective Effect of Saccharides on Freeze-Dried Liposomes Encapsulating Drugs.

The production of freeze-dried liposomes encapsulating drugs is considered a key challenge since the drugs are prone to leakage. The aim of this work was to study the effect of different saccharides on preserving the stability and drug retention capacity of a previously developed liposomal formulation, when subjected to a freeze-drying process. The protective role of trehalose, lactose, glucose, mannitol and sucrose, known for their cryo/lyoprotective effect, was tested by addition of different concentrations to liposomes. Sucrose, in a concentration dependent manner (8:1 sugar:lipids mass ratio) proved to be a suitable cryo/lyoprotectant of these liposomes. Effectively, this saccharide prevents the fusion or/and aggregation of the liposomal formulation, protecting the integrity of the freeze-dried empty liposomes. The liposomal formulation containing sucrose was studied in terms of morphology, concentration, and anticancer drugs retention ability. The study involved two drugs encapsulated in the aqueous core, methotrexate (MTX) and doxorubicin (DOX), and one drug located in the lipid bilayer, tamoxifen (TAM). After the freeze-drying process, liposomes with sucrose encapsulating drugs revealed high physical stability, maintaining their narrow and monodisperse character, however high leakage of the drugs encapsulated in the aqueous core was observed. Otherwise, no significant drug leakage was detected on liposomes containing the TAM, which maintained its biological activity after the freeze-drying process. These findings reveal that sucrose is a good candidate for the cryo/lyoprotection of liposomes with drugs located in the lipid bilayer.

Internalization of Methotrexate Conjugates by Folate Receptor-α.

The folate antagonist methotrexate is a cytotoxic drug used in the treatment of several cancer types. The entry of methotrexate into the cell is mediated by two main transport systems: the reduced folate carrier and membrane-associated folate receptors. These transporters differ considerably in their mechanism of (anti)folate uptake, substrate specificity, and tissue specificity. Although the mechanism of action of the reduced folate carrier is fairly well-established, that of the folate receptor has remained unknown. The development of specific folate receptor-targeted antifolates would be accelerated if additional mechanistic data were to become available. In this work, we used two fluorescently labeled conjugates of methotrexate, differently linked at the terminal groups, to clarify the uptake mechanism by folate receptor-α. The results demonstrate the importance of methotrexate amino groups in the interaction with folate receptor-α.

Ultrasound-assisted biosynthesis of novel methotrexate-conjugates.

New methotrexate-acylglycerols and methotrexate-cyclodextrins (α, ß and γ-CD) conjugates were obtained via esterification or transesterification reactions. All reactions were catalysed by esterases namely immobilized Lipase from Candida antarctica B and Lipase from Thermomyces lanuginosus. The use of ultrasound to assist the reactions revealed to be a key factor to obtain high conversion yields on both MTX conjugates. Transesterification reactions including long chain triacylglycerols were only successful when ultrasound was applied. In cyclodextrins esterification a higher number of MTX molecules was also linked to cyclodextrins when ultrasound was used. All the conjugates were characterized by MALDI-TOF and NMR spectroscopy.

Extracellular Purine Metabolism Is the Switchboard of Immunosuppressive Macrophages and a Novel Target to Treat Diseases With Macrophage Imbalances.

If misregulated, macrophage (Mϕ)-T cell interactions can drive chronic inflammation thereby causing diseases, such as rheumatoid arthritis (RA). We report that in a proinflammatory environment, granulocyte-Mϕ (GM-CSF)- and Mϕ colony-stimulating factor (M-CSF)-dependent Mϕs have dichotomous effects on T cell activity. While GM-CSF-dependent Mϕs show a highly stimulatory activity typical for M1 Mϕs, M-CSF-dependent Mϕs, marked by folate receptor ß (FRß), adopt an immunosuppressive M2 phenotype. We find the latter to be caused by the purinergic pathway that directs release of extracellular ATP and its conversion to immunosuppressive adenosine by co-expressed CD39 and CD73. Since we observed a misbalance between immunosuppressive and immunostimulatory Mϕs in human and murine arthritic joints, we devised a new strategy for RA treatment based on targeted delivery of a novel methotrexate (MTX) formulation to the immunosuppressive FRß+CD39+CD73+ Mϕs, which boosts adenosine production and curtails the dominance of proinflammatory Mϕs. In contrast to untargeted MTX, this approach leads to potent alleviation of inflammation in the murine arthritis model. In conclusion, we define the Mϕ extracellular purine metabolism as a novel checkpoint in Mϕ cell fate decision-making and an attractive target to control pathological Mϕs in immune-mediated diseases.

Absence of Albumin Improves in Vitro Cellular Uptake and Disruption of Poloxamer 407-Based Nanoparticles inside Cancer Cells.

Novel nanoparticles based on Poloxamer 407 and vegetable oil were produced by high pressure homogenization. Functionalization of those nanoparticles was made by incorporation of folic acid (FA)-Poloxamer 407 conjugate. These nanoparticles showed suitable characteristics for intravenous therapeutic applications similarly to PEGylated albumin-based nanoparticles, previously described by our research group. Here, we found that the absence of albumin at the interface of Poloxamer 407-based nanoparticles improves the overall process of in vitro cellular uptake and nanoparticle disruption inside cancer cells (folate receptor, FR, positive cells). The results presented here suggest that interfacial composition of those nanoparticles is of paramount importance for drug trafficking inside cancer cells.

Fab antibody fragment-functionalized liposomes for specific targeting of antigen-positive cells.

Liposomes functionalized with monoclonal antibodies or their antigen-binding fragments have attracted much attention as specific drug delivery devices for treatment of various diseases including cancer. The conjugation of antibodies to liposomes is usually achieved by covalent coupling using cross-linkers in a reaction that might adversely affect the characteristics of the final product. Here we present an alternative strategy for liposome functionalization: we created a recombinant Fab antibody fragment genetically fused on its C-terminus to the hydrophobic peptide derived from pulmonary surfactant protein D, which became inserted into the liposomal bilayer during liposomal preparation and anchored the Fab onto the liposome surface. The Fab-conjugated liposomes specifically recognized antigen-positive cells and efficiently delivered their cargo, the Alexa Fluor 647 dye, into target cells in vitro and in vivo. In conclusion, our approach offers the potential for straightforward development of nanomedicines functionalized with an antibody of choice without the need of harmful cross-linkers.

Oil-based cyclo-oligosaccharide nanodevices for drug encapsulation.

New encapsulation nanodevices were synthesized by emulsification of cyclo-oligosaccharides fully substituted by hydrophobic palmitic chains. These highly hydrophobic compounds, acquire oily-like behaviour at moderate temperatures (∼50°C) and when submitted to ultrasound (US) can undergo emulsification. The improved emulsifying properties of modified cyclo-oligosaccharides are suitable to produce small and narrow sized nanoemulsions with ability to encapsulate amphiphilic molecules. Both encapsulation and delivery of a therapeutic drug, methotrexate (MTX), with amphiphilic character was assessed. The physicochemical properties of the cyclo-oligosaccharide nanoemulsions containing MTX were investigated by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), scanning transmission electron microscopy (STEM) and dynamic light scattering (DLS). The results revealed that the modified cyclo-oligosaccharides are potential platforms for the encapsulation of bio compounds for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes.

Neutral PEGylated liposomal formulation for efficient folate-mediated delivery of MCL1 siRNA to activated macrophages.

Cationic liposomes are efficient vectors for systemic delivery of therapeutic small interfering RNA (siRNA), taking advantage of RNA interference (RNAi), a naturally occurring gene-silencing mechanism in mammalian cells. However, toxicity at high concentrations, short circulating half-lives and lack of specificity restrict their successful application in a wider scale. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficiency of neutral liposomes containing polyethylene glycol (PEG) to encapsulate siRNA in their aqueous core. This formulation will reduce drastically the toxicity associated to cationic liposomes by bringing surface charge to almost zero, increasing stealth degree and therefore circulation time. In this study, we evaluate the efficiency of folate-targeted liposomes for specific delivery of siRNA to activated macrophages, key effector cells in rheumatoid arthritis (RA) pathology which specifically express folate receptor ß (FRß). Myeloid cell leukaemia-1 (Mcl-1) is a protein essential for synovial macrophage survival, since Mcl-1 suppression results in the induction of apoptosis. The effect of MCL1 siRNA incorporated in liposomal formulation was assessed in primary human macrophages and successful inhibition of Mcl-1 expression was achieved. Here we show that the neutral liposomal derived from DOPE (1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoethanolamine) formulation developed is efficient to encapsulate MCL1 siRNA and silencing gene expression in activated human macrophages.

Peptide-protein interactions within human hair keratins.

We selected 1235 decapeptides from human hair proteins encoded by human genes of keratins and keratin associated proteins. The peptides were linked to glass arrays and screened for their affinity towards a solution of human hair extracted keratin fraction. Based on the physicochemical properties of the peptides, ten variables were studied: content of different types of amino acid side chains (cysteine, hydrophobic, polar, basic, acidic, aromatic rings, amide, alcohol side chains), isoelectric point, and net charge. We found differences statistically significant on the binding affinity of peptides based on their content of cysteine, hydrophobic and polar amino acids, mainly containing alcohols. These results point to the formation of hydrophobic interactions and disulfide bonds between small peptides and human hair keratins as the main driving forces for the interaction of possible cosmetic peptides, namely designed to strength human hair. As so, our results enlighten the nature of the interaction of keratin based materials with human hair, which are claimed to enhance hair fiber strength, and enable a more directed and sustained hair care peptide design.

Therapeutic l-asparaginase: upstream, downstream and beyond.

l-asparaginase (l-asparagine amino hydrolase, E.C.3.5.1.1) is an enzyme clinically accepted as an antitumor agent to treat acute lymphoblastic leukemia and lymphosarcoma. It catalyzes l-asparagine (Asn) hydrolysis to l-aspartate and ammonia, and Asn effective depletion results in cytotoxicity to leukemic cells. Microbial l-asparaginase (ASNase) production has attracted considerable attention owing to its cost effectiveness and eco-friendliness. The focus of this review is to provide a thorough review on microbial ASNase production, with special emphasis to microbial producers, conditions of enzyme production, protein engineering, downstream processes, biochemical characteristics, enzyme stability, bioavailability, toxicity and allergy potential. Some issues are also highlighted that will have to be addressed to achieve better therapeutic results and less side effects of ASNase use in cancer treatment: (a) search for new sources of this enzyme to increase its availability as a drug; (b) production of new ASNases with improved pharmacodynamics, pharmacokinetics and toxicological profiles, and (c) improvement of ASNase production by recombinant microorganisms. In this regard, rational protein engineering, directed mutagenesis, metabolic flux analysis and optimization of purification protocols are expected to play a paramount role in the near future.

Fluorescent quantification of melanin.

Melanin quantification is reportedly performed by absorption spectroscopy, commonly at 405 nm. Here, we propose the implementation of fluorescence spectroscopy for melanin assessment. In a typical in vitro assay to assess melanin production in response to an external stimulus, absorption spectroscopy clearly overvalues melanin content. This method is also incapable of distinguishing non-melanotic/amelanotic control cells from those that are actually capable of performing melanogenesis. Therefore, fluorescence spectroscopy is the best method for melanin quantification as it proved to be highly specific and accurate, detecting even small variations in the synthesis of melanin. This method can also be applied to the quantification of melanin in more complex biological matrices like zebrafish embryos and human hair.

Albumin/asparaginase capsules prepared by ultrasound to retain ammonia.

Asparaginase reduces the levels of asparagine in blood, which is an essential amino acid for the proliferation of lymphoblastic malign cells. Asparaginase converts asparagine into aspartic acid and ammonia. The accumulation of ammonia in the bloodstream leads to hyperammonemia, described as one of the most significant side effects of asparaginase therapy. Therefore, there is a need for asparaginase formulations with the potential to reduce hyperammonemia. We incorporated 2 % of therapeutic enzyme in albumin-based capsules. The presence of asparaginase in the interface of bovine serum albumin (BSA) capsules showed the ability to hydrolyze the asparagine and retain the forming ammonia at the surface of the capsules. The incorporation of Poloxamer 407 in the capsule formulation further increased the ratio aspartic acid/ammonia from 1.92 to 2.46 (and 1.10 from the free enzyme), decreasing the levels of free ammonia. This capacity to retain ammonia can be due to electrostatic interactions and retention of ammonia at the surface of the capsules. The developed BSA/asparaginase capsules did not cause significant cytotoxic effect on mouse leukemic macrophage cell line RAW 264.7. The new BSA/asparaginase capsules could potentially be used in the treatment of acute lymphoblastic leukemia preventing hyperammonemia associated with acute lymphoblastic leukemia (ALL) treatment with asparaginase.

Ultrasound enhances lipase-catalyzed synthesis of poly (ethylene glutarate).

The present work explores the best conditions for the enzymatic synthesis of poly (ethylene glutarate) for the first time. The start-up materials are the liquids; diethyl glutarate and ethylene glycol diacetate, without the need of addition of extra solvent. The reactions are catalyzed by lipase B from Candida antarctica immobilized on glycidyl methacrylate-ter-divinylbenzene-ter-ethylene glycol dimethacrylate at 40°C during 18h in water bath with mechanical stirring or 1h in ultrasonic bath followed by 6h in vacuum in both the cases for evaporation of ethyl acetate. The application of ultrasound significantly intensified the polyesterification reaction with reduction of the processing time from 24h to 7h. The same degree of polymerization was obtained for the same enzyme loading in less time of reaction when using the ultrasound treatment. The degree of polymerization for long-term polyesterification was improved approximately 8-fold due to the presence of sonication during the reaction. The highest degree of polymerization achieved was 31, with a monomer conversion of 96.77%. The ultrasound treatment demonstrated to be an effective green approach to intensify the polyesterification reaction with enhanced initial kinetics and high degree of polymerization.

Protein Formulations for Emulsions and Solid-in-Oil Dispersions.

Needs from medical and cosmetic areas have led to the design of novel nanosized emulsions and solid-in-oil dispersions of proteins. Here, we describe the production of those emulsions and dispersions using high-energy methodologies such as high-pressure homogenization or ultrasound. Recent work has resulted in new mechanistic insights related to the formation of protein emulsions and dispersions. The production method and composition of these formulations can determine major parameters such as size, stability, and functionality, and therefore their final application. Aqueous nanoemulsions of proteins can be used for drug delivery, while solid-in-oil dispersions are often used in transdermal applications.