Acetyl zingerone methyl ether protects hair against oxidative damage incurred during and after treatment with permanent dyes and helps extend longevity of newly developed hair colour.

BACKGROUND: Use of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality. OBJECTIVE: To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour. RESULTS: We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca+2 ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner. CONCLUSION: This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.

CONTEXTE: L'utilisation de colorants capillaires permanents provoque des dommages oxydatifs involontaires pendant la courte période du processus de teinture, ce qui entraîne des changements perceptibles dans la texture, la maniabilité et l'aspect des cheveux. De plus, après la teinture des cheveux, une exposition régulière au soleil comme facteur de stress environnemental clé continue de stimuler des dommages oxydatifs supplémentaires et d'induire une décoloration prématurée des nouvelles couleurs de cheveux ou des changements dans la qualité de la couleur. OBJECTIF: Documenter l'utilité de l'éther méthylique d'acétyl zingérone (MAZ) en tant qu'ingrédient de soin capillaire nouvellement conçu pour offrir une protection supplémentaire contre les dommages oxydatifs et sauvegarder l'intégrité de la couleur des cheveux. RÉSULTATS: Nous démontrons que le MAZ est chimiquement compatible avec les conditions alcalines élevées requises pour le processus de coloration et, d'après les calculs théoriques, lie de préférence les ions Fe et Cu aux ions Ca ou Zn. Dans les réactions de Fenton, le MAZ chélate efficacement les métaux redox actifs (atomes de Fe et de Cu) en présence d'un excès d'ions Ca+2 pour inhiber la production de radicaux hydroxyles et, dans des études séparées, le MAZ neutralise l'oxygène seul avec une efficacité supérieure à celle de l'α­tocophérol, d'un facteur de 2.5. Lorsqu'il est mélangé à des teintures permanentes avant l'application de la coiffure, le MAZ réduit de manière significative les forces de peignage et, d'après les images SEM, conduit à des réductions substantielles des signes visuels de dommages à la surface. Dans une étude clinique de 28 jours, le mélange de MAZ dans les teintures capillaires avant l'application n'interfère pas avec le développement de la couleur ni avec la capacité à couvrir les cheveux gris et conduit à des améliorations significatives des attributs perçus associés à l'état des cheveux immédiatement après le processus de teinture. Au cours d'une phase d'entretien de 28 jours, en particulier entre le 14ème et le 28ème jour, l'utilisation continue du shampooing et de l'après­shampooing contenant du MAZ a permis de préserver de manière significative les mesures de brillance et la couleur des cheveux en termes de longévité et de qualité de la couleur, qui reste telle que désirée et nette, par rapport à l'utilisation du shampooing et de l'après­shampooing de contrôle. CONCLUSION: Ces travaux font du MAZ un ingrédient de nouvelle génération pour les soins capillaires, à utiliser dans les teintures permanentes pour atténuer les dommages oxydatifs et dans les shampooings, et après­shampooings pour promouvoir la longévité de la couleur des cheveux et maintenir la santé et l'apparence générales des cheveux au quotidien.

Prospective Randomized Double-Blind Vehicle-Controlled Study of Topical Coconut and Sunflower Seed Oil-Derived Isosorbide Diesters on Atopic Dermatitis.

Background: Preliminary studies support the use of topical coconut and sunflower seed oil for atopic dermatitis (AD). However, standardized topical formulations of fatty acids from these sources have not been studied. Objective: This study investigates whether coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived isosorbide diesters can be used in conjunction with colloidal oatmeal to improve itch, AD severity, and the need for topical steroids in adults. Methods: This was a single-center, 4-week, randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study conducted between 2021 and 2022. Thirty-two male and female adults with mild-to-moderate AD were enrolled and completed the study. Participants were randomized to receive either 0.1% colloidal oatmeal (vehicle) or isosorbide diesters (IDEAS, 4% isosorbide dicaprylate and 4% isosorbide disunflowerseedate) along with 0.1% colloidal oatmeal. The main outcomes of the study were changes in the visual analogue rating of itch and 75% improvement in the Eczema Area and Severity Index score (EASI 75) at 4 weeks. Other measures included the use of topical steroids and the relative abundance of skin Staphylococcus aureus. Results: Participants in the IDEAS group had a 65.6% improvement in itch compared with 43.8% in the vehicle group (P = 0.013). In total, 56.5% and 25% of the those in the IDEAS and vehicle groups, respectively, achieved EASI 75 at 4 weeks (P = 0.07). There was no difference in skin hydration or transepidermal water loss. The relative abundance of S. aureus was decreased in the IDEAS group at week 4 compared with no change in the vehicle group (P = 0.044). Topical corticosteroid use increased in the vehicle group compared with a decrease in the IDEAS group at week 1 (292.5% vs 24.8%; P value = 0.039) and week 2 (220% vs 46%; P value = 0.08). Conclusions: Topical application of emollients containing coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived fatty esters may improve itch, reduce topical steroid use, and reduce the relative abundance of S. aureus in mild-to-moderate AD. CTR number: NCT04831892.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging.

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

The Role of Acetyl Zingerone and Its Derivatives in Inhibiting UV-Induced, Incident, and Delayed Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers.

Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) are ultraviolet radiation (UV)-induced carcinogenic DNA photoproducts that lead to UV signature mutations in melanoma. Previously, we discovered that, in addition to their incident formation (iCPDs), UV exposure induces melanin chemiexcitation (MeCh), where UV generates peroxynitrite (ONOO-), which oxidizes melanin into melanin-carbonyls (MCs) in their excited triplet state. Chronic MeCh and energy transfer by MCs to DNA generates CPDs for several hours after UV exposure ends (dark CPD, dCPDs). We hypothesized that MeCh and the resulting dCPDs can be inhibited using MeCh inhibitors, and MC and ONOO- scavengers. Here, we investigated the efficacy of Acetyl Zingerone (AZ), a plant-based phenolic alkanone, and its chemical analogs in inhibiting iCPDs and dCPDs in skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and isogenic pigmented and albino melanocytes. While AZ and its methoxy analog, 3-(4-Methoxy-benzyl)-Pentane-2,4-dione (MBPD) completely inhibited the dCPDs, MBPD also inhibited ~50% of iCPDs. This suggests the inhibition of ~80% of total CPDs at any time point post UV exposure by MBPD, which is markedly significant. MBPD downregulated melanin synthesis, which is indispensable for dCPD generation, but this did not occur with AZ. Meanwhile, AZ and MBPD both upregulated the expression of nucleotide excision repair (NER) pathways genes including Xpa, Xpc, and Mitf. AZ and its analogs were non-toxic to the skin cells and did not act as photosensitizers. We propose that AZ and MBPD represent "next-generation skin care additives" that are safe and effective for use not only in sunscreens but also in other specialized clinical applications owing to their extremely high efficacy in blocking both iCPDs and dCPDs.

Isosorbide Fatty Acid Diesters Have Synergistic Anti-Inflammatory Effects in Cytokine-Induced Tissue Culture Models of Atopic Dermatitis.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic disease in which epidermal barrier disruption triggers Th2-mediated eruption of eczematous lesions. Topical emollients are a cornerstone of chronic management. This study evaluated efficacy of two plant-derived oil derivatives, isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL) and isosorbide dicaprylate (IDC), using AD-like tissue culture models. Treatment of reconstituted human epidermis with cytokine cocktail (IL-4 + IL-13 + TNF-α + IL-31) compromised the epidermal barrier, but this was prevented by co-treatment with IDL and IDC. Cytokine stimulation also dysregulated expression of keratinocyte (KC) differentiation genes whereas treatment with IDC or IDL + IDC up-regulated genes associated with early (but not late) KC differentiation. Although neither IDL nor IDC inhibited Th2 cytokine responses, both compounds repressed TNF-α-induced genes and IDL + IDC led to synergistic down-regulation of inflammatory (IL1B, ITGA5) and neurogenic pruritus (TRPA1) mediators. Treatment of cytokine-stimulated skin explants with IDC decreased lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion by more than 50% (more than observed with cyclosporine) and in vitro LDH activity was inhibited by IDL and IDC. These results demonstrate anti-inflammatory mechanisms of isosorbide fatty acid diesters in AD-like skin models. Our findings highlight the multifunctional potential of plant oil derivatives as topical ingredients and support studies of IDL and IDC as therapeutic candidates.