2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity.

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2-MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.

Off to a good start? Review of the predictivity of reactivity methods modelling the molecular initiating event of skin sensitization.

The assessment of skin sensitizing properties of chemicals has moved away from animal methods to new approach methodologies (NAM), guided by qualitative mechanistic understanding operationalized in an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). As with any AOP, the molecular initiating event (MIE) of covalent binding of a chemical to skin proteins is particularly important. This MIE has been modelled by several test methods by measuring the reaction of a test chemical with model peptides in chemico. To better understand the similarities and differences, a data repository with publicly available data for the direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA), amino acid derivative reactivity assay (ADRA) and kinetic DPRA (kDPRA), as well as the peroxidase peptide reactivity assay (PPRA) was assembled. The repository comprises 260 chemicals with animal and human reference data, data on four relevant physicochemical properties, and between 161 to 242 test chemical results per test method. First, an overview of the experimental conditions of the four test methods was compiled allowing to readily compare them. Second, data analyses demonstrated that the test methods' predictivity was consistently reduced for poorly watersoluble chemicals and that the DPRA and ADRA can be used interchangeably. It also revealed new categorization thresholds for the DPRA and ADRA that are potentially relevant for strategic uses. In summary, a detailed assessment of reactivity test methods is provided, highlighting their potential and limitations. The results presented are intended to stimulate scientific discussion around test methods modelling the MIE of the skin sensitization AOP.