Role of interleukin-6 and endothelin-1 receptors in enhanced melanocyte dendricity of facial spots and suppression of their ligands by niacinamide and tranexamic acid.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmented spots are common issues in all ethnicities with a hallmark characteristic of increased melanocyte dendricity. OBJECTIVES: To determine (1) potential receptors and/or cytokines that are involved in increased melanocyte dendricity in multiple facial spot types; (2) treatment effects of skin-lightening compounds on identified cytokine release from keratinocytes and on dendricity in melanocytes. METHODS: Facial spots (melasma, solar lentigo, acne-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and adjacent non-spot skin biopsies were collected from Chinese women (age 20-70). The epidermal supra and basal layers were laser dissected to enrich keratinocyte or melanocyte biology respectively for transcriptome analysis. Melanocyte dendricity was assessed histologically by immunofluorescent staining. Effect of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and endothelin-1 (ET-1) on melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer were assessed in human melanocytes or melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture models. Treatment effects of skin-lightening compounds (niacinamide, tranexamic acid [TxA], sucrose laurate/dilaurate mixture [SDL]) were assessed on IL-6 or ET-1 release from keratinocytes and on dendricity in melanocytes. RESULTS: Transcriptome analysis revealed IL-6 receptor and ET-1 receptor were significantly upregulated compared to the adjacent normal skin, visually confirmed at the protein level through immunostaining. Melanocytes in spot areas are more dendritic than melanocytes in adjacent non-spot skin. The addition of IL-6 and ET-1 to cell culture models increased melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer. IL-6 release was significantly suppressed by niacinamide and its combination, while ET-1 release was significantly reduced by both niacinamide and TxA. In contrast, SDL acted directly upon melanocytes to reduce dendricity. CONCLUSION: Interleukin-6 and ET-1 receptors are significantly upregulated in multiple facial spot types. The in vitro testing demonstrated their respective ligands increased melanocyte dendricity. Tested skin-lightening compounds showed reduction in release of IL-6/ET-1 from epidermal keratinocytes and/or inhibition of melanocyte dendricity. This work sheds light on pathophysiological mechanism of facial spots and potential new mechanisms of these skin-lightening compounds which warrant further human clinical validation.

Morphological and transcriptional evaluation of multiple facial cutaneous hyperpigmented spots.

Background: Morphological characteristics of major facial hyperpigmented spots have been well documented. However, detailed alterations of respective transcriptional profile for each spot and in-depth comparisons across multiple spot types have not been reported. Objectives: To comprehensively assess and compare multiple facial hyperpigmented spot types at the morphological and molecular levels by utilising transcriptional expression profiling with correlation to quantified histological features. Methods: Multiple types of facial spot biopsies were collected from Chinese women and compared to additional biopsies taken from adjacent healthy skin. The types of spots included Solar Lentigos with both elongated dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) (SL[E]) and flat DEJ (SL[F]), Seborrhoeic Keratosis (SK), Melasma, Freckles, Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of resolving acne (PIH[A]) and other stimuli (PIH[O]). Combined histomorphometry, immunohistology, and transcriptome analysis for suprabasal-epidermis, basal-epidermis, and dermal compartments dissected by Laser Capture Microdissection (LCM) were conducted and compared across different spot types. Results: Each spot type was confirmed to have the unique histological pathology already documented elsewhere. Most of the spot types except Melasma and PIH (A) revealed similar melanocyte density to adjacent skin. All spots exhibited increased melanin synthesis, melanosome transportation, as well as enhanced melanocyte dendricity, however, each spot revealed a distinct transcriptome regulation pattern in pigmentation pathways. Upregulation of pigmentation genes was also observed in the dermis of SL(F), SL(E), SK and PIH(O), associated with significant modulation of DEJ related genes in basal-epidermis and/or dermal compartments, suggesting potential melanocyte infiltration into the dermis due to impaired DEJ quality. Beyond upregulated pigmentation, for most spots, gene expression in the suprabasal-epidermis regulating keratinisation was significantly upregulated in conjunction with thickened stratum corneum. Furthermore, downregulation of tight junction related genes represented by claudin-1 was observed in majority of spot types, suggesting compromised barrier function could be a similarity across spots. Additionally, Cyclin-Dependent Kinase Inhibitor 2A (CDKN2A) was upregulated in all types of spots, indicating involvement of cell senescence as a common theme. Conclusion: This comprehensive and comparative study based on the histological and transcriptional analysis of three skin compartments provided unique insights into specific causations as well as differences and similarities across multiple hyperpigmented spot types.

A regulator of ubiquitin-proteasome activity, 2-hexyldecanol, suppresses melanin synthesis and the appearance of facial hyperpigmented spots.

BACKGROUND: 2-Hexyldecanol has long been used in skin-care products, but has not previously been reported as an active ingredient for skin benefits. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate 2-hexyldecanol in in vitro and ex vivo systems and, if found to be active, progress it to topical clinical testing to determine effects on pigmentation in skin. METHODS: 2-Hexyldecanol was tested in melanocyte cell culture systems (B16 mouse melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes) for its effect on proteolytic activity and melanin production, in the absence and presence of the proteasome-specific inhibitor, MG132. It was further tested in a human skin explant model for its effect on melanin production. Lastly, topically applied 2-hexyldecanol was evaluated for its effect on the appearance of facial pigmentation in an 8-week, randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split-face incomplete block design study in Chinese women. RESULTS: In submerged cell culture, 2-hexyldecanol upregulated proteolytic activity and decreased melanin synthesis. These effects were antagonized by the proteasome-specific inhibitor MG132. MG132, tested in the absence of 2-hexyldecanol, increased melanin production. In a human skin explant model, topical 2-hexyldecanol suppressed the production of melanin vs. a vehicle control. In a human clinical study in Chinese women (n = 110 observations per test material), a 2-hexyldecanol-containing formulation significantly reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmented spots vs. its control. CONCLUSIONS: These data indicate that regulation of proteasome activity is a viable target for control of melanin production, that 2-hexyldecanol upregulates proteasomal activity in melanocytes, and that topical 2-hexyldecanol reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation.