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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 46(3): 380-390, 2024 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38124299

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Filaggrin (FLG) is an essential protein that plays a vital role in maintaining skin barrier function and moisture levels, allowing the skin to adapt to dry environments. However, the precise temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism in the human epidermis remain poorly understood, and suitable tools to study these time-dependent effects are currently lacking. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the molecular mechanisms and time course of FLG metabolism and skin barrier function under high- and low-humidity conditions, utilizing a reconstructed epidermis model. METHODS: EpiSkin specimens cultured under humid or dry conditions for varying durations (2-48 h) were compared by assessing FLG degradation and skin barrier formation using immunofluorescence staining and western blotting. RESULTS: Under conditions of low humidity, the proteolysis of FLG in EpiSkin increased between 4 and 12 h and was accompanied by elevated levels of cysteine-aspartic protease (caspase)-14. The expression of peptidyl arginine deiminase 1 and calpain 1 also increased at 4 h. However, after 24 h, the expression of these three FLG-degrading proteins significantly decreased. Conversely, the levels of pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and urocanic acid initially decreased at 2 h and then increased between 12 and 24 h. Additionally, the expression of skin barrier proteins, such as FLG, transglutaminase 5, loricrin and zonula occludens-1, decreased starting from 12 h. Notably, epidermal cell viability and activity were also inhibited. CONCLUSION: We propose a reliable and ethical model to study the temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism and its role in skin barrier function. Using a commercially reconstructed epidermis to mimic dry skin formation obviates the need for animal and human testing.


CONTEXTE: la filaggrine (FLG) est une protéine essentielle qui joue un rôle vital dans le maintien de la fonction de barrière cutanée et des taux d'humidité, permettant à la peau de s'adapter aux environnements secs. Cependant, la dynamique temporelle précise du métabolisme de la FLG dans l'épiderme humain reste mal comprise, et des outils appropriés pour étudier ces effets dépendant du temps font actuellement défaut. OBJECTIF: étudier les mécanismes moléculaires et l'évolution dans le temps du métabolisme de la FLG et de la fonction de barrière cutanée en milieux à humidité élevée et faible, en utilisant un modèle d'épiderme reconstruit. MÉTHODES: les échantillons EpiSkin cultivés en milieux humides ou secs pendant des durées variables (2 à 48 h) ont été comparés en évaluant la dégradation de la FLG et la formation d'une barrière cutanée à l'aide d'une coloration par immunofluorescence et d'un Western blot. RÉSULTATS: en milieux à faible humidité, la protéolyse de la FLG dans EpiSkin a augmenté entre 4 et 12 h et s'est accompagnée de taux élevés de cystéine­protéase aspartique (caspase)­14. L'expression du peptidyl arginine déiminase 1 et de la calpaïne 1 a également augmenté à 4 h. Cependant, après 24 h, l'expression de ces trois protéines de dégradation de la FLG a significativement diminué. Inversément, les taux d'acide pyrrolidone­5­carboxylique et d'acide urocanique ont initialement diminué au bout de 2 h, puis ont augmenté entre 12 et 24 h. En outre, l'expression des protéines de la barrière cutanée, telles que la FLG, la transglutaminase 5, la loricrine et le zonula occludens­1, a diminué à partir de 12 h. Notamment, la viabilité et l'activité des cellules épidermiques ont également été inhibées. CONCLUSION: nous proposons un modèle fiable et éthique pour étudier la dynamique temporelle du métabolisme de la FLG et son rôle dans la fonction de barrière cutanée. L'utilisation d'un épiderme reconstitué commercialement pour imiter la formation d'une peau sèche élimine la nécessité de réaliser des examens sur des animaux et des humains.


Assuntos
Epiderme , Proteínas Filagrinas , Umidade , Proteínas de Filamentos Intermediários , Proteínas Filagrinas/metabolismo , Humanos , Proteínas de Filamentos Intermediários/metabolismo , Epiderme/metabolismo , Modelos Biológicos , Proteólise , Caspase 14/metabolismo , Ácido Urocânico/metabolismo
2.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 22(2): 651-660, 2023 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36221990

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Small molecular natural products, such as betaine, have unique moisturizing advantages. Capparis spinosa L. fruit is rich in quaternary ammonium alkaloids such as betaine and stachydrine. However, few studies investigated its efficacy and mechanism on human skin. OBJECTIVE: Polysaccharides-free C. spinosa fruit extract (CS) was obtained to study its moisturizing effect and mechanisms focusing on filaggrin (FLG) synthesis and degradation. METHODS: The clinical moisturizing test was carried out on human arms, calves, and faces after CS treatment for 0.5-6 h. The change in the level of FLG, caspase 14, loricrin, and transglutaminase 5 (TGM 5) was measured by immunofluorescence after CS treatment for 4 and 24 h in a reconstructed epidermis model. Also, the content of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) in the stratum corneum was tested by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) both in the epidermis model and human calves. RESULTS: Compared with glycerin (positive control), 5% CS showed a strong skin hydration effect on arms and calves when applied for 0.5-6 h. Also, the face hydration increased at 0.5 and 4 h. In addition, 3% CS applied to the recombinant epidermis model under low humidity promoted the immunodetected levels of caspase 14 and PCA content but reduced the levels of FLG at 4 h, however, the levels of FLG, loricrin, and TGM 5 were promoted at 24 h. Meanwhile, CS treatment for 4 h in human calves increased the PCA content in the stratum corneum by 29.9%. CONCLUSIONS: Topical application of CS on human skin showed an instant and long-lasting increase in skin hydration by regulating the FLG network. It promoted FLG degradation to form PCA at 4 h both in vivo and in vitro, increasing FLG synthesis after 24 h, potentially reforming the FLG monomer reservoir to alleviate the skin's dry condition.


Assuntos
Capparis , Humanos , Animais , Bovinos , Capparis/metabolismo , Proteínas Filagrinas , Caspase 14/metabolismo , Betaína , Frutas , Proteínas de Filamentos Intermediários/metabolismo
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