Photoprotection of the Skin from Visible Light‒Induced Pigmentation: Current Testing Methods and Proposed Harmonization.

Visible light (VL) can induce pigmentary alterations, especially in dark-skinned individuals, and exacerbate photodermatoses and pigmentary disorders. Currently, there is no standardized method for assessing sunscreen protection against VL. On the basis of a critical review of published in vitro and in vivo methods, a VL photoprotection assessment method based on pigmentation is proposed.

The Role of Photoprotection in Optimizing the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with an estimated prevalence of 10-15% in children and 2-10% in adults. Clinically, there is notable phenotypic variability driven by a complex interaction between genetics, immune function, and the environment. Impairment of the skin barrier plays a significant role in the pathogenesis of AD. The apparent beneficial effect of sunlight in patients with atopic eczema is questioned due to its capacity to disrupt the skin barrier and generate free radicals that can damage proteins, lipids, and DNA. The sum of the external factors that an individual is exposed to throughout their lifetime is termed the exposome. Environmental factors such as sun exposure, temperature, and humidity contribute to both AD flares and regional prevalence variation. Literature on photoprotection in atopic dermatitis is very scarce. The use of adequate sunscreens in atopic dermatitis can ensure the level of photoprotection required to prevent skin photoaging and skin cancer and to mitigate skin barrier dysfunction, decrease inflammation, and neutralize facial redness. Herein we discuss and review the role of UV radiation and the exposome in the etiology of AD, as well as the role of adequate photoprotection.

Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants.

BACKGROUND: Glycolic acid (GA) is an effective way of reversing the signs of age and photodamage. GA enhances desquamation of the stratum corneum and induces biological responses that can help restore skin's integrity. GA can, however, cause irritation, especially when its concentration is high, and its pH is low. Thus, most commercially available products for home use contain relatively low GA concentrations and are partially neutralized to a pH around 4. AIMS: The aim of this study was to determine the biological effects and relative efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing GA at concentrations ranging from 8% to 25% at pH 4 in human ex vivo skin explants. METHODS: Human skin explants were topically treated with gel formulations and oil-in-water creams containing 8%, 10%, 15%, or 25% GA, adjusted to pH 4, daily for 5 days. The degree of desquamation, their effect on cell proliferation, and their impact upon total collagen levels were determined 24 hours later. Levels of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) were measured after days 3 and 6. RESULTS: All formulations effectively induced desquamation in a concentration-dependent manner. Total collagen levels were increased at all concentrations, with greatest effects at higher GA concentrations. No effect on TNF-α expression was observed. CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that partially neutralized GA formulations retain skin rejuvenating properties without causing irritation and inflammation and that their use can be tailored to individual needs based on the concentration of GA in the formulation.

Night Cream Containing Melatonin, Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Helps Reduce Skin Reactivity and Signs of Photodamage: Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies.

INTRODUCTION: Extrinsic factors, such as solar radiation and urban pollution, cause damage that alters the structure, function and appearance of skin. The aim of this study was to determine the ability of a night cream containing melatonin, carnosine and Helichrysum italicum extract (referred to here as Night Cream) to reduce extrinsic skin damage, and to evaluate the efficacy of this Night Cream to reduce clinical signs of age and photodamage under normal conditions of use. METHODS: Recovery from extrinsic damage was assessed by exposing human skin explants to ultraviolet (UV) A, infrared light, blue light or pollution and then treating the stress-exposed explants with Night Cream. Markers of oxidative stress were examined by immunohistochemistry. Anti-aging and calming properties were determined in four single-center, open-label trials involving 117 individuals. Subjects applied Night Cream to their face once nightly for up to 12 weeks. Improvements in clinical signs of age and photodamage, and reduction of lactic acid-induced stinging were evaluated by investigator assessment and subject self-assessment. RESULTS: Night Cream significantly reduced oxidative stress in human skin ex vivo. Clinically, hydration (+ 64.4%; p < 0.05) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values (- 10.0%; p < 0.05) were improved within 1 h of use. Wrinkle counts were reduced by up to 18.9% (p < 0.05), and brown and UV spot numbers by 5.5% (p < 0.05) and 13.2% (p < 0.05), respectively. Lactic acid-induced stinging was significantly reduced within 7 days of use, with 86.7% of subjects reporting that their skin felt calmer. CONCLUSION: These findings suggest that Night Cream reduces skin damage caused by environmental factors and that its nightly use can improve clinical signs of aging with additional skin calming benefits.

Epidermal and Dermal Hallmarks of Photoaging are Prevented by Treatment with Night Serum Containing Melatonin, Bakuchiol, and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Studies.

INTRODUCTION: Photoaging is a complex process that is chiefly the result of oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV)-generated reactive oxygen species. To counter this process, we developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) containing a combination of direct and indirect antioxidants and polyphenols that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and stimulate dermal protein synthesis. In clinical trials 3-in-1 NFS improved the appearance of photoaged skin. In this study we sought to identify some of the main histologic changes responsible for this. METHODS: We performed an immunolabeling analysis of some of the salient epidermal and dermal proteins in 3-in-1 NFS-treated primary epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) and dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) in vitro, and in UV-exposed skin explants ex vivo. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells following exposure of 3-in-1 NFS-treated skin explants to UV radiation were also determined. RESULTS: We demonstrate that 3-in-1 NFS increases levels of filaggrin and aquaporin 3 in HEKs, and levels of collagen I and collagen III in HDFs in vitro. Levels of precursor procollagen type I and tropoelastin were increased in ex vivo skin explants. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells were significantly reduced in UV-exposed skin explants. These effects were only observed with the combination of ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS, suggesting that they have a synergistic effect on photoaged skin biology. CONCLUSION: Our results show that some of the histological hallmarks of photoaging are improved with the use of 3-in-1 NFS.

Novel Non-Steroidal Facial Cream Demonstrates Antifungal and Anti-Inflammatory Properties in Ex Vivo Model for Seborrheic Dermatitis.

INTRODUCTION: Seborrheic dermatitis (SEBD) is a chronic, recurrent skin disorder that typically occurs as an inflammatory response to fungi of the genus Malassezia. The development of an ex vivo model that mimics the fungal proliferation and skin inflammation of SEBD would play an important role in screening formulations for their efficacy in treating SEBD. METHODS: An ex vivo model for SEBD using human skin explants that had been mechanically manipulated to facilitate colonization of Malassezia furfur was developed. This model was used to evaluate the efficacy of a novel non-steroidal facial cream (NSFC) in inhibiting M. furfur proliferation and reducing inflammatory cytokine levels. RESULTS: This model reproduced some of the key pathological features of SEBD, including M. furfur proliferation and inflammatory cytokine production. Topical application of NSFC facial cream reduced M. furfur counts by 92% (p < 0.05) and levels of interleukin 8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) by 82% and 40%, respectively (p < 0.05, both). CONCLUSION: The proposed ex vivo model for SEBD could be a useful tool to evaluate topical antifungal treatments. The novel NSFC tested in this study reduced M. furfur proliferation and inflammatory cytokine levels following topical application and may be helpful in the management of SEBD. FUNDING: ISDIN.

Three-tier testing approach for optimal ocular tolerance sunscreen.

Background: Poor ocular tolerance of sunscreens is partially responsible for poor compliance in use of sunscreens. A three-tiered approach for the testing of ocular tolerance for such products is described that includes an in vitro test for ocular irritation, an in vitro test for the activation of pain receptors, and finally a clinical study involving ocular instillation of the product under controlled conditions followed by ophthalmologic and subjective self-evaluation on a graded scale. We report the results for a new water-based facial sunscreen (SCFW) with very good ocular tolerance. Methods: The ocular irritation potential of SCFW was determined using the EpiOcular™ human cell construct which constituted the first-tier testing. Briefly, the tissues were exposed to SCFW and appropriate positive and negative controls for 15 minutes to 24 hours. After treatment, the tissues were rinsed and cytotoxicity determined. The calculated ET50 value (time at which relative viability decreased 50%) was then used to determine the ocular irritation potential. In the second-tier testing, the sting potential of SCFW was determined by employing the NociOcular assay that measures the activation of TRPV1 (transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1) specific receptors linked to pain sensation in a neuronal model with over-expression of functional TRPV1 channels. Finally, as the third-tier testing, SCFW was tested in a clinical study with instillation of product into the ocular cul-de-sac and ocular irritation was evaluated after 30 seconds, 15 minutes, and 60 minutes by an ophthalmologist. Participating subjects were also asked to score sensation on a scale of 0 to 3 from slight prickliness to severe stinging. Assay control reference product with known good ocular tolerability (10% baby shampoo) was concurrently tested. Results: In the in vitro topical application assay using the EpiOcular™ construct, no significant cytotoxicity was observed in the tissues exposed to SCFW, indicating minimal ocular irritation potential. In the in vitro NociOcular assay, the cells exposed to the prepared dilutions of SCFW showed minimal TRPV1 specific activity, indicating minimal ocular sting potential. In the in vivo study, no statistically significant differences were found in terms of subjective or objective eye irritation assessment between SCFW and 10% baby shampoo. Conclusion: SCFW showed negligible ocular irritation potential in tier 1, minimal potential to activate pain receptors in tier 2, and good ocular tolerability that was comparable to 10% baby shampoo in tier 3 testing. The results suggest that SCFW has good eye tolerance and that the tiered approach can be used to evaluate facial sunscreens for ocular tolerability.

New Vision in Photoprotection and Photorepair.

Chronic exposure to solar radiation is associated with an increased incidence of skin cancer worldwide and more specifically with non-melanoma skin cancers and actinic keratosis. At the cellular level DNA damage is the main event following ultraviolet (UV) exposure. The kind of lesions produced depends on the wavelength and the energy profile of the radiation, with different photoproducts being formed as a result. Although endogenous DNA repair mechanisms are somewhat effective in repairing DNA, some DNA damage persists and can accumulate with chronic exposure. UV protection strategies, such as sunscreen use, are important in limiting further DNA damage. Several published studies have demonstrated the protective effect that regular use of sunscreen can have against the development of skin cancers. Newer options that aim to help repair damaged DNA may have an important role in reducing the incidence of chronic sun exposure-related photoaging and non-melanoma skin cancers. Photolyase, which is capable of repairing cyclobutane dimers formed as a result of DNA irradiation, is one such novel ingredient. In the first part of this paper we review the rationale for a combined treatment approach of photoprotection and photorepair with photolyase. In the second part we evaluate several published clinical studies, which suggest a beneficial effect in preventing new skin lesions in photodamaged skin. A strategy of photoprotection plus photorepair appears to be relevant for all persons with a high level of solar exposure and those at a higher risk for developing skin cancers.

Melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate synergize to modulate gene expression and restore Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1 signaling in UV-exposed skin.

Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces changes to the expression of hundreds of genes in the skin and modulates cellular signaling pathways that alter its structure, function and appearance. To counter these effects, we have developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) comprising melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and support new collagen synthesis. In order to better define its mechanism of action and gain insight into how it might influence the biology of photoaged skin, we performed a transcriptomic analysis of ex vivo skin explants that had been exposed to UV light and treated with 3-in-1 NFS each day for 4 consecutive days. Differentially expressed mRNAs and microRNAs (miRNA) were identified by RNA sequencing and a miRNA interactome was developed. Pathway enrichment analysis was performed to identify pathways likely modulated by 3-in-1 NFS. Our analysis revealed that the combination of active ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS exerted a synergistic effect on skin biology and modulated the expression of genes implicated in the regulation of collagen biosynthesis, angiogenesis, skin barrier function and cellular metabolism. Pathway analysis indicated that these events are driven by Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1α (HIF-1α) whose expression in UV-exposed skin was partially restored upon 3-in-1 NFS treatment. To our knowledge, 3-in-1 NFS is the first non-drug demonstrated to act upon this pathway in the skin.