Oxidization of squalene, a human skin lipid: a new and reliable marker of environmental pollution studies.

A review of the oxidization of squalene, a specific human compound produced by the sebaceous gland, is proposed. Such chemical transformation induces important consequences at various levels. Squalene by-products, mostly under peroxidized forms, lead to comedogenesis, contribute to the development of inflammatory acne and possibly modify the skin relief (wrinkling). Experimental conditions of oxidation and/or photo-oxidation mechanisms are exposed, suggesting that they could possibly be bio-markers of atmospheric pollution upon skin. Ozone, long UVA rays, cigarette smoke… are shown powerful oxidizing agents of squalene. Some in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo testings are proposed as examples, aiming at studying ingredients or products capable of boosting or counteracting such chemical changes that, globally, bring adverse effects to various cutaneous compartments.

Evaluation of the impact of urban pollution on the quality of skin: a multicentre study in Mexico.

OBJECTIVE: After pilot and preliminary studies aimed at identifying pertinent biochemical parameters, a multicenter clinical study was performed to evaluate the effect of pollution on human skin. METHODS: The clinical study was performed in collaboration with the 'Centre Régional de lutte contre le cancer de Montpellier' and the 'National Institute of Public Health of Mexico' on 96 subjects in Mexico City (exposed to pollution) and 93 subjects in Cuernavaca (less exposed to pollution). Both biochemical and clinical skin parameters were studied. RESULTS: The study demonstrated significant quantitative and qualitative modifications of parameters related to sebum excretion in Mexico City compared to Cuernavaca one: An increased level of sebum excretion rate, a lower level of vitamin E and squalene in sebum, an increase of lactic acid and a higher erythematous index on the face of the subjects. In the stratum corneum, a significant higher level of carbonylated proteins and a lower level of IL 1α were noticed, as well as a decrease of ATP concentration with a decrease of chymotrysin like activity, without modifications of corneodesmosin content and trypsin like activity. From a clinical point of view, a higher frequency of atopic and urticarial skins, a higher frequency of red dermographism, an important seborrheic status at the forehead level and a lower level of dandruffs were noted in Mexico City population. The analysis taking into account the sex does not modify the observed results. CONCLUSION: The study demonstrated an important impact of polluted environmental conditions on skin quality, evidencing important modifications of superficial biochemical parameters. The cause/effects relationships of these modifications remain, however, to be further assessed by a complementary in vitro/in vivo approaches.

Ethylene formation from methionine as a method to evaluate oxygen free radical scavenging and metal inactivation by cosmetics.

Synopsis It has been proposed that oxygen free radicals are involved in skin aging. This paper describes a new method for the evaluation of oxygen free radical scavenging by cosmetic products. It is based on the measurement, by gas chromatography, of ethylene produced during the oxidation of methionine by the hydroxyl radical. OH. is produced by an iron catalyzed superoxide-driven Fenton reaction in which superoxide is obtained by photochemical oxygen reduction. The cosmetic is applied, together with methionine, riboflavine, NADH, FeCl(3) and EDTA, on a glass microfibre filter and submitted to UVA exposure through a quartz cell. Ethylene is then measured from aliquots of the atmosphere inside the cell. Catalase or Desferal completely inhibits ethylene production. SOD or high concentrations of hydroxyl radical scavengers (Mannitol, DMSO etc.) afford a partial protection. Thus the efficiency of O(2) (-)., H(2)O(2) and OH. scavengers and iron chelators can be measured. The main advantage of this test is that it is performed in conditions which simulate skin during UV exposure (e.g. air and UV exposed thin layer). Furthermore, as it is non-invasive, it can also be applied to human skin in vivo.