Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide.

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.

Market analysis of the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetic products intended for oncological patients and other vulnerable groups.

There is growing concern about the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in cosmetics. We aimed to identify the main cosmetic ingredients with suspected endocrine-disrupting properties, and analyse their presence in current marketed products. Particular attention was given to products intended for susceptible (due to physiological status) and vulnerable (due to specific pathologies) groups with a view to informing cosmetologists and related health professionals of the scientific basis and current status of any concerns. Suspected EDCs used as cosmetic ingredients, included in lists published by regulatory agencies, were documented and investigated by weight of evidence analysis based on endocrine-related toxicity studies. In total, 49 suspected EDCs were identified from a sample of over a thousand cosmetic products marketed in the European Union. Suspected EDCs were found in approximately one third of products, with a similar frequency in products intended for susceptible and vulnerable groups. Avobenzone (CAS number:70356-09-1), octisalate (CAS number: 118-60-5), and butylated hydroxytoluene (CAS number: 128-37-0) were mostly commonly identified. The presence of EDCs was particularly high for sun care cosmetic products. Our results highlight potentially significant exposure through cosmetics to substances currently studied by regulatory institutions as suspected endocrine disrupters. EDCs are not yet universally regulated, and informing health professionals and educating the population as a precaution are options to reduce individual exposure levels, especially in vulnerable and susceptible groups. Special recommendations are needed for products intended for oncological patients.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Snail extract for skin: A review of uses, projections, and limitations.

BACKGROUND: Snail mucin is becoming increasingly popular for its wide range of ingredients and potential benefits. Snail extract's widespread appearance in cosmetic formulations encourages an investigation into the medical and cosmetic benefits. AIMS: This study aims to explore current literature on the variety of snail mucin applications. Specifically, we present a review of the uses, global market estimates and projects, and limitations to snail mucin. METHODS: A literature search was conducted on PubMed reviewing snail mucin and their application in medical and dermatologic fields examining their uses. Economic reports were also investigated for Global Market estimates. RESULTS: The therapeutic use of snail mucin in medical fields has been studied as antimicrobial agents, drug delivery vehicles, antitumor agents, wound healing agents, and biomaterial coatings among others. Additionally, the use in cosmetic fields includes antiaging, hydrating, anti-acne, scarring, and hyperpigmentation treatments. It is important to highlight that most studies conducted were preclinical or small clinical studies, stressing the need for additional large-scale clinical trials to support these claims. Investigations into the global market found estimates ranging from $457 million to $1.2 billion with upward projections in the upcoming decade. Limitations include ethical habitats for collection, allergy investigation, and missing clinical studies. CONCLUSIONS: The findings presented here emphasize the expanding uses of snail mucin and its ingredients alongside a growing market cosmetic industry should consider. We also emphasize the need for appropriate clinical trials into the stated benefits of snail mucin to ensure consumer safety and ethical extraction of mucin.

Toxic Ingredients in Personal Care Products: A Dermatological Perspective.

Environmental dermatology is the study of how environmental factors affect the integumentary system. The environment includes natural and built habitats, encompassing ambient exposure, occupational exposures, and lifestyle exposures secondary to dietary and personal care choices. This review explores common toxins found in personal care products and packaging, such as bisphenols, parabens, phthalates, per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances, p-phenylenediamine, and formaldehyde. Exposure to these toxins has been associated with carcinogenic, obesogenic, or proinflammatory effects that can potentiate disease. In addition, these compounds have been implicated as endocrine-disrupting chemicals that can worsen dermatological conditions such as acne vulgaris, or dermatitis. Certain pollutants found in personal care products are not biodegradable and have the potential to bioaccumulate in humans. Therefore, even short-term exposure can cause long-lasting issues for communities. The skin is often the first point of contact for environmental exposures and serves as the conduit between environmental toxins and the human body. Therefore, it is important for dermatologists to understand common pollutants and their acute, subacute, and chronic impact on dermatological conditions to better diagnose and manage disease.

A study on the applicability of one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry for analysis of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics.

Based on one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS), we established a simple, rapid, and efficient method for the simultaneous determination of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics, including isosorbide dimethyl ether, isopropyl myristate, N-butylsaccharin and Azone. The extraction procedure was performed in a centrifuge tube, allowing extraction and purification in a single step. The cosmetic sample was extracted by n-hexane-ethyl acetate (1:1, V/V), purified by silica gel and anhydrous magnesium sulfate as the solid phase purification agent, separated on a TG-5 ms column (30.0 m × 0.25 mm × 0.25 µ m), confirmed and detected by GC-MS/MS in the selected reaction monitoring (SRM) mode, and quantified by the internal standard method with Di-n­butyl phthalate-D4(DBP-D4) as the internal standard. The selections of a column, extraction solvent, and solid phase purification agent were optimized. Under the optimized conditions, the four skin penetration enhancers showed good linearities in the range of 0.02∼0.50 mg L - 1. The correlation coefficients (r) were 0.992 ∼ 0.997, exceeding the specifications requirements (r ≥ 0.990); The detection (LODs, S/N = 3) and quantification limits (LOQs, S/N = 10) of the method were 0.08 ∼ 0.12 mg kg-1 and 0.25 ∼ 0.40 mg kg-1, respectively. According to the cosmetic matrix in different formulation systems, the spiked recovery tests were carried out at three levels, i.e., low, medium, and high. The average recoveries of the analytes were 85.3% ∼ 95.6%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n = 6) were 2.1% ∼ 7.8%. The established method was also employed to analyze cosmetics in the market. Azone, isosorbide dimethyl ether, and isopropyl myristate resulted as the most widely used skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics. The method established in this study has the advantages of operational simplicity, high sensitivity, good reproducibility, and low consumption of samples and solvents. Moreover, it can be used to determine skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics.

Margin of exposure to free formaldehyde in personal care products containing formaldehyde-donor preservatives: Evidence for consumer safety.

Formaldehyde has been classified as carcinogenic to humans by International Agency for Research on Cancer and found in personal care (PC) products containing formaldehyde-donor (FD) preservatives. However, the cancer risk associated with the use of FD-containing PC products has not been well established. Our study provides the quantitative cancer risk assessment of formaldehyde in FD-containing PC products. The carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance (13C-NMR) spectroscopy was used in this risk assessment to provide reliable exposure information to formaldehyde in PC products and aqueous solutions containing sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. The risk assessment was conducted using the margin of exposure (MOE) approach with benchmark doses (BMDs) for 10% effect. For hemolymphoreticular neoplasias in male rats, a BMD of 28.03 mg/kg/day and a BMD lower confidence limit (BMDL) of 2.52 mg/kg/day were calculated from available long-term animal experiments. The worst-case consumer exposure to formaldehyde from FD-containing PC products was 0.007 µg/kg/day. Comparing the consumer exposure with BMDL, the resulting MOE was 360,000 for the worst-case scenario. The consumer exposure to formaldehyde (0.007 µg/kg/day) from using FD-containing PC products represents less than 1.0 × 10-6 % of background level endogenous formaldehyde (878-1310 mg/kg/day). The cancer risk from formaldehyde to consumers using FD-containing PC products is negligible.

Lipopeptides development in cosmetics and pharmaceutical applications: A comprehensive review.

Lipopeptides are surface active, natural products of bacteria, fungi and green-blue algae origin, having diverse structures and functionalities. In analogy, a number of chemical synthesis techniques generated new designer lipopeptides with desirable features and functions. Lipopetides are self-assembly guided, supramolecular compounds which have the capacity of high-density presentation of the functional epitopes at the surface of the nanostructures. This feature contributes to their successful application in several industry sectors, including food, feed, personal care, and pharmaceutics. In this comprehensive review, the novel class of ribosomally synthesized lipopeptides is introduced alongside the more commonly occuring non-ribosomal lipopeptides. We highlight key representatives of the most researched as well as recently described lipopeptide families, with emphasis on structural features, self-assembly and associated functions. The common biological, chemical and hybrid production routes of lipopeptides, including prominent analogues and derivatives are also discussed. Furthermore, genetic engineering strategies aimed at increasing lipopeptide yields, diversity and biological activity are summarized and exemplified. With respect to application, this work mainly details the potential of lipopeptides in personal care and cosmetics industry as cleansing agents, moisturizer, anti-aging/anti-wrinkling, skin whitening and preservative agents as well as the pharmaceutical industry as anitimicrobial agents, vaccines, immunotherapy, and cancer drugs. Given that this review addresses human applications, we conclude on the topic of safety of lipopeptide formulations and their sustainable production.

Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Regulatory Activities of Extracts from Herb, Leaf and In Vitro Culture of Achillea millefolium (Yarrow).

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC50 values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives.

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Potential Carcinogens in Makeup Cosmetics.

Facial makeup cosmetics are commonly used products that are applied to the skin, and their ingredients come into contact with it for many years. Consequently, they should only contain substances that are considered safe or used within an allowable range of established concentrations. According to current European laws, all cosmetics approved for use should be entirely safe for their users, and the responsibility for this lies with manufacturers, distributors, and importers. However, the use of cosmetics can be associated with undesirable effects due to the presence of certain chemical substances. An analysis of 50 random facial makeup cosmetics commercially available on the European Union market and manufactured in six European countries was carried out, concerning the presence of substances with potential carcinogenic properties, as described in recent years in the literature. Nine types of facial makeup cosmetics were selected, and their compositions, as declared on the labels, were analyzed. The carcinogens were identified with information present in the European CosIng database and according to the Insecticide Resistance Action Committee's (IRAC) classification. As a result, the following potential carcinogens were identified: parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben), ethoxylated compounds (laureth-4, lautreth-7, or ethylene glycol polymers known as PEG), formaldehyde donors (imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15, and DMDM hydantoin), and ethanolamine and their derivatives (triethanolamine and diazolidinyl urea), as well as carbon and silica. In conclusion, all of the analyzed face makeup cosmetics contain potential carcinogenic substances. The literature review confirmed the suppositions regarding the potential carcinogenic effects of selected cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, it seems necessary to carry out studies on the long-term exposure of compounds present in cosmetics and perhaps introduce stricter standards and laws regulating the potential presence of carcinogens and their activity in cosmetics.

The generation of environmentally persistent free radicals on photoaged microbeads from cosmetics enhances the toxicity via oxidative stress.

Microbeads used in personal care products have been one of the important sources of microplastics (MPs), and little has been reported on their environmental behaviors and health risks. The characteristics of environmentally persistent free radicals (EPFRs) and the toxicity assessment of MPs (environmentally relevant concentrations) from cosmetics during photoaging remains largely unknown. In this study, the formation of EPFRs on polyethylene (PE) microbeads from facial scrubs under light irradiation and their toxicity were investigated using C. elegans as a model organism. The results suggested that light irradiation induced the generation of EPFRs, which accelerates the aging process and alters the physicochemical properties of PE microbeads. Acute exposure to PE (1 mg/L) at photoaged times of 45-60 d significantly decreased the physiological indicators (e.g., head thrashes, body bends, and brood size). The oxidative stress response and stress-related gene expression were also enhanced in nematodes. The addition of N-acetyl-l-cysteine induced significant inhibition of toxicity and oxidative stress in nematodes exposed to 45-60 d of photoaged PE. The Pearson correlation results showed that the concentration of EPFRs was significantly correlated with physiological indicators, oxidative stress, and related-genes expression in nematodes. The data confirmed that the generation of EPFRs combined with heavy metals and organics contributed to toxicity induced by photoaged PE, and oxidative stress might be involved in regulating adverse effects in C. elegans. The study provides new insight into the potential risks of microbeads released into the environment during photoaging. The findings also highlight the necessity for considering the role of EPFRs formation in evaluating the impacts of microbeads.

Advances on Hormones in Cosmetics: Illegal Addition Status, Sample Preparation, and Detection Technology.

Owing to the rapid development of the cosmetic industry, cosmetic safety has become the focus of consumers' attention. However, in order to achieve the desired effects in the short term, the illegal addition of hormones in cosmetics has emerged frequently, which could induce skin problems and even skin cancer after long-term use. Therefore, it is of great significance to master the illegal addition in cosmetics and effectively detect the hormones that may exist in cosmetics. In this review, we analyze the illegally added hormone types, detection values, and cosmetic types, as well as discuss the hormone risks in cosmetics for human beings, according to the data in unqualified cosmetics in China from 2017 to 2022. Results showed that although the frequency of adding hormones in cosmetics has declined, hormones are still the main prohibited substances in illegal cosmetics, especially facial masks. Because of the complex composition and the low concentration of hormones in cosmetics, it is necessary to combine efficient sample preparation technology with instrumental analysis. In order to give the readers a comprehensive overview of hormone analytical technologies in cosmetics, we summarize the advanced sample preparation techniques and commonly used detection techniques of hormones in cosmetics in the last decade (2012-2022). We found that ultrasound-assisted extraction, solid phase extraction, and microextraction coupled with chromatographic analysis are still the most widely used analytical technologies for hormones in cosmetics. Through the investigation of market status, the summary of sample pretreatment and detection technologies, as well as the discussion of their development trends in the future, our purpose is to provide a reference for the supervision of illegal hormone residues in cosmetics.

Trace determination of prohibited acrylamide in cosmetic products by vortex-assisted reversed-phase dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.

An analytical method for the determination of residual acrylamide in cosmetic products containing potential acrylamide-releasing ingredients is presented. The method is based on vortex-assisted reversed-phase dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (VA-RP-DLLME) to extract and preconcentrate acrylamide by using water as extraction solvent taking advantage the highly polar behavior of this analyte, followed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) for its determination. Under optimized conditions (5 mL toluene as supporting solvent, 50 µL of water as extraction solvent, 1 min for vortex extraction time) the method was properly validated obtaining good analytical features (linearity up to 20 ng mL-1, method limits of detection and quantification of 0.51 and 1.69 ng g-1, respectively, enrichment factor of 52, and good repeatability (RSD < 4.1%)). The proposed analytical method was applied to the determination of acrylamide in commercial samples that were weighed and dispersed in the minimum quantity of methanol (50 µL) by vortex stirring before applying the VA-RP-DLLME procedure. Through the pretreatment of the sample and the use of acrylamide-d3 as surrogate, the matrix effect was overcome, obtaining good relative recovery values (88-108%). The proposed method has shown efficacy, simplicity, and speed, and it allows the determination of acrylamide at trace levels easily, which could make it very useful for companies in the quality control of cosmetic products containing potential acrylamide-releasing ingredients to fulfill the safety limits imposed by European Regulation.

Nanoparticles for Topical Application in the Treatment of Skin Dysfunctions-An Overview of Dermo-Cosmetic and Dermatological Products.

Nanomaterials (NM) arouse interest in various fields of science and industry due to their composition-tunable properties and the ease of modification. They appear currently as components of many consumer products such as sunscreen, dressings, sports clothes, surface-cleaning agents, computer devices, paints, as well as pharmaceutical and cosmetics formulations. The use of NPs in products for topical applications improves the permeation/penetration of the bioactive compounds into deeper layers of the skin, providing a depot effect with sustained drug release and specific cellular and subcellular targeting. Nanocarriers provide advances in dermatology and systemic treatments. Examples are a non-invasive method of vaccination, advanced diagnostic techniques, and transdermal drug delivery. The mechanism of action of NPs, efficiency of skin penetration, and potential threat to human health are still open and not fully explained. This review gives a brief outline of the latest nanotechnology achievements in products used in topical applications to prevent and treat skin diseases. We highlighted aspects such as the penetration of NPs through the skin (influence of physical-chemical properties of NPs, the experimental models for skin penetration, methods applied to improve the penetration of NPs through the skin, and methods applied to investigate the skin penetration by NPs). The review summarizes various therapies using NPs to diagnose and treat skin diseases (melanoma, acne, alopecia, vitiligo, psoriasis) and anti-aging and UV-protectant nano-cosmetics.

[Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy].

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products.

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

A Review on the Main Phytoconstituents, Traditional Uses, Inventions, and Patent Literature of Gum Arabic Emphasizing Acacia seyal.

Acacia seyal is an important source of gum Arabic. The availability, traditional, medicinal, pharmaceutical, nutritional, and cosmetic applications of gum acacia have pronounced its high economic value and attracted global attention. In addition to summarizing the inventions/patents applications related to gum A. seyal, the present review highlights recent updates regarding its phytoconstituents. Traditional, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and medicinal uses with the possible mechanism of actions have been also reviewed. The patent search revealed the identification of 30 patents/patent applications of A. seyal. The first patent related to A. seyal was published in 1892, which was related to its use in the prophylaxis/treatment of kidney and bladder affections. The use of A. seyal to treat cancer and osteoporosis has also been patented. Some inventions provided compositions and formulations containing A. seyal or its ingredients for pharmaceutical and medical applications. The inventions related to agricultural applications, food industry, cosmetics, quality control of gum Arabic, and isolation of some chemical constituents (L-rhamnose and arabinose) from A. seyal have also been summarized. The identification of only 30 patents/patent applications from 1892 to 15 November 2021 indicates a steadily growing interest and encourages developing more inventions related to A. seyal. The authors recommend exploring these opportunities for the benefit of society.

LC-ESI-MS/MS Polyphenolic Profile and In Vitro Study of Cosmetic Potential of Aerva lanata (L.) Juss. Herb Extracts.

The aim of the present study was to investigate the phenolic composition and the biological properties of different Aerva lanata (L). Juss. herb extracts obtained with the use of accelerated solvent extraction (ASE), i.e., a green, ecological method, for cosmetic purposes. All samples exhibited high DPPH• (9.17-119.85 mg TE/g) and ABTS•+ (9.90-107.58 mg TE/g) scavenging activity. The extracts exhibited considerable anti-lipoxygenase (EC50 between 1.14 mg/mL and 3.73 mg/mL) and anti-xanthine oxidase (EC50 between 1.28 mg/mL and 3.72 mg/mL) activities, moderate chelating activity (EC50 between 1.58 mg/mL and 5.30 mg/mL), and high antioxidant potential in the ORAC assay (0.36-3.84 mM TE/g). Changes in the polyphenol profile of the analysed samples depending on the solvent and temperature used for the extraction were determined with the liquid chromatography/electrospray mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS/MS) method. Twenty-one phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids, were detected and quantified. It was shown that tiliroside was one of the main phenolic metabolites in the A. lanata (L.) Juss. herb., which may suggest that this compound may be largely responsible for the observed anti-inflammatory activity of the extracts. In addition, the studied extracts exhibited promising skin-related (anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-hyaluronidase) activity. This study showed that Aerva lanata (L.) Juss. contains high amounts of phenolic compounds, including tiliroside, and has good skin-related activities. Therefore, the plant may be interesting as a novel source of bioactive agents for cosmetic industries.

Implication of parabens in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: Advantages and limitations.

Cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and variable healthcare products used parabens, among other excipients, for their preservative and antimicrobial activities. Paraben derivatives exhibit distinguished physiochemical properties that enable them to be compatible with the formulation of cosmetic agents in different dosage forms. In addition to their potency and efficacy, parabens are economically efficient as they have low-manufacturing costs. Despite the desirable characteristics, the safety of parabens use is controversial after detecting these chemicals in various biological tissues after repetitive and long-term use of formulations containing them. The use of parabens drew public health attention after scientific reports linked skin exposure to parabens with health issues, in particular, breast cancer. In response, worldwide authorities set regulations for the allowance concentrations of paraben to be used in variable cosmetic products.