The Role of Nitrate Supply in Bioactive Compound Synthesis and Antioxidant Activity in the Cultivation of Porphyra linearis (Rhodophyta, Bangiales) for Future Cosmeceutical and Bioremediation Applications.

Porphyra sensu lato has economic importance for food and pharmaceutical industries due to its significant physiological activities resulting from its bioactive compounds (BACs). This study aimed to determine the optimal nitrate dosage required in short-term cultivation to achieve substantial BAC production. A nitrate experiment using varied concentrations (0 to 6.5 mM) revealed optimal nitrate uptake at 0.5 mM in the first two days and at 3 and 5 mM in the last five days. Polyphenols and carbohydrates showed no differences between treatments, while soluble proteins peaked at 1.5 and 3 mM. Total mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) were highest in algae incubated at 5 and 6.5 mM, and the highest antioxidant activity was observed in the 5 mM, potentially related to the MAAs amount. Total carbon and sulfur did not differ between treatments, while nitrogen decreased at higher nitrate. This discovery highlights the nuanced role of nitrate in algal physiology, suggesting that biological and chemical responses to nitrate supplementation can optimize an organism's health and its commercially significant bioactive potential. Furthermore, given its ability to absorb high doses of nitrate, this alga can be cultivated in eutrophic zones or even in out-/indoor tanks, becoming an excellent option for integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA) and bioremediation.

Phyto-cosmeceutical gel containing curcumin and quercetin loaded mixed micelles for improved anti-oxidant and photoprotective activity.

Ultra Violet radiations induced skin damage and associated skin disorders are a widespread concern. The consequences of sun exposure include a plethora of dermal conditions like aging, solar urticaria, albinism and cancer. Sunscreens provide effective protection to skin from these damages. Besides FDA approved physical and chemical UV filters, phytoconstituents with their multi functionalities are emerging as frontrunners in Therapy of skin disorders. Objective of this study was to develop novel phyto-dermal gel (PDG) with dual action of sun protection and antioxidant potential using polymeric mixed micelles (PMMs) are nanocarriers. PMMs of Pluronic F127 and Pluronic F68 loaded with curcumin and quercetin were optimized by 32 factorial designs. Responses studied were vesicle size, SPF, entrapment efficiency of curcumin and quercetin and antioxidant activity. Droplet size ranged from 300 to 500 nm with PDI in between 0.248 and 0.584. Combination of curcumin and quercetin showed enhanced sun protection and antioxidant activity. Pluronics played a significant positive role in various parameters. In present studies vesicle size of factorial batches was found to be between 387 and 527 nm, and SPF was found to be between 18.86 and 28.32. Transmission electron microscopy revealed spherical morphology of micelles. Optimized micelles were incorporated into Carbopol 940. Optimized PDG was evaluated for pH, drug content, spreadability, rheology, syneresis, ex vivo permeation, and skin retention. Hysteresis loop in the rheogram suggested thixotropy of PDG. Syneresis for gels from day 0-30 days was found to be between 0% and 12.46% w/w. SPF of optimized PDG was 27±0.5. Optimized PDG showed no signs of erythema and edema on Wistar rats. PMMs thus effectively enhanced antioxidant and skin protective effect of curcumin and quercetin.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro.

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

A Compound Essential Oil Alters Stratum Corneum Structure, Potentially Promoting the Transdermal Permeation of Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Ingredients.

BACKGROUND: The stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of the skin, and cosmeceuticals are different from ordinary cosmetics in that they need to deliver active ingredients targeting specific skin problems through the SC into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, we designed a compound essential oil (CEO) extracted from Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge and Cinnamomum cassia Presl, supplemented with borneol to deliver active ingredients through the SC. METHODS: The CEO was prepared by flash extraction combined with the microwave method. Moreover, the main components of the CEO were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). Visualization techniques, such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), haematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), were used to study the permeationpromoting mechanism of the CEO on the skin. Furthermore, the permeation-promoting effects of the CEO on both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients were tested via in vitro skin penetration experiments and in vivo microdialysis experiments. RESULTS: The results indicated the ability of the CEO to alter the structure of the SC, leading to enhanced transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. The 1.5% CEO group demonstrated the best permeation-promoting effect compared to the other CEO groups and blank groups (P<0.05). Furthermore, the CEO displayed an expedited permeability-promoting effect on hydrophobic ingredients compared to hydrophilic ingredients. CONCLUSION: It is concluded that the prepared CEO can promote the transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. This study will provide a reference for the application of the prepared CEO in the development of cosmeceuticals with natural efficacy.

Using 3% retinol peeling and cosmeceuticals for the aesthetic wellness of the oncological patient after precautionary endocrine treatment: A case series.

BACKGROUND: Roughness, sagging, and skin rash are common in patients with breast cancer treated with LH-RH analog plus tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors as adjuvant postsurgical endocrine therapy. The use of topical retinol (vitamin A) has shown to be an efficacious cosmetic treatment. AIMS: Peeling with an advanced retinol peel formulation based on 3% retinol, 4% triethyl citrate, 0.1% aminophil, bisabolol, and 1% vitamin E acetate, in a vehicle in an alcoholic solution has been successfully used to ameliorate skin appearance on subjects with photodamage and in the aged population. We aimed to verify its use during adjuvant chemotherapy. PATIENTS: Four subjects experiencing skin issues during postsurgical adjuvant therapy for their breast cancer received retinol peel at least 6 weeks after stopping their postsurgery therapy as a low invasive aesthetic medical treatment to be used both at the dermatology desk and at home. RESULTS: Retinol peel was effective, safe, and well-tolerated, improving skin brightness and firmness in all the patients, since 4 weeks after the beginning of the treatment. Patients declared to be satisfied with the treatment and their skin appearance letting them feel better for cancer recovery, too. CONCLUSION: These preliminary observations suggest that the use of an advanced retinol peel formulation might improve skin appearance in women experiencing skin damages caused by adjuvant therapy after breast cancer surgery.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions.

Purpose: This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil. Methods: G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties. Results: G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects. Conclusion: G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Standardized Extract from Wastes of Edible Flowers and Snail Mucus Ameliorate Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocytes.

Several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative, and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from Helix aspersa muller has already been reported to have beneficial properties such as antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. In order to enhance the beneficial effects of snail mucus, a formulation enriched with antioxidant compounds derived from edible flower waste (Acmella oleracea L., Centaurea cyanus L., Tagetes erecta L., Calendula officinalis L., and Moringa oleifera Lam.) was obtained. UVB damage was used as a model to investigate in vitro the cytoprotective effects of snail mucus and edible flower extract. Results demonstrated that polyphenols from the flower waste extract boosted the antioxidant activity of snail mucus, providing cytoprotective effects in keratinocytes exposed to UVB radiation. Additionally, glutathione content, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and lipid peroxidation levels were reduced following the combined treatment with snail mucus and edible flower waste extract. We demonstrated that flower waste can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications due to its potent antioxidant activity. Thus, a new formulation of snail mucus enriched in extracts of edible flower waste could be useful to design innovative and sustainable broadband natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use.

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC50 lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

Antimicrobial Peptides: Challenging Journey to the Pharmaceutical, Biomedical, and Cosmeceutical Use.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), or host defence peptides, are short proteins in various life forms. Here we discuss AMPs, which may become a promising substitute or adjuvant in pharmaceutical, biomedical, and cosmeceutical uses. Their pharmacological potential has been investigated intensively, especially as antibacterial and antifungal drugs and as promising antiviral and anticancer agents. AMPs exhibit many properties, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry. AMPs are being developed as novel antibiotics to combat multidrug-resistant pathogens and as potential treatments for various diseases, including cancer, inflammatory disorders, and viral infections. In biomedicine, AMPs are being developed as wound-healing agents because they promote cell growth and tissue repair. The immunomodulatory effects of AMPs could be helpful in the treatment of autoimmune diseases. In the cosmeceutical industry, AMPs are being investigated as potential ingredients in skincare products due to their antioxidant properties (anti-ageing effects) and antibacterial activity, which allows the killing of bacteria that contribute to acne and other skin conditions. The promising benefits of AMPs make them a thrilling area of research, and studies are underway to overcome obstacles and fully harness their therapeutic potential. This review presents the structure, mechanisms of action, possible applications, production methods, and market for AMPs.

Anti-tyrosinase and antimelanogenic effect of cinnamic acid derivatives from Prunus mahaleb L.: Phenolic composition, isolation, identification and inhibitory activity.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The traditional use of Prunus species against skin diseases and especially for skin lightning cosmeceutical purposes is widespread in many cultures. Prunus mahaleb L. is a well known food plant and used in the baking industry for flavoring. The fruit kernels (endocarp) are used in India for hyperpigmentation. AIM OF THE STUDY: To investigate the chemical composition with the antimelanogenesis effect of P. mahaleb seed and kernel extracts and isolated compounds. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Isolation studies performed from the methanol extracts obtained from kernels and structures were determined using NMR and MS analysis. Antimelanogenesis effect was determined by mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells. RESULTS: Five cinnamic acid derivatives were isolated and their structures (2-O-ß-glucopyranosyloxy-4-methoxy-hydrocinnamic acid (1), cis-melilotoside (2), dihydromelilotoside (3), trans-melilotoside (4), 2-O-ß-glucosyloxy-4-methoxy trans-cinnamic acid (5)) were elucidated using advanced spectroscopic methods. Mushroom tyrosinase enzyme inhibition of extracts, fractions and pure compounds obtained from P. mahaleb kernels were investigated and structure-activity relationship revealed. According to a detailed, comprehensive and validated LC-MS/MS technique analysis, vanilic acid (41.407 mg/g), protocatechuic acid (8.992 mg/g) and ferulic acid (4.962 mg/g) in the kernel ethylacetate fraction; quinic acid (14.183 mg/g), fumaric acid (8.349 mg/g) and aconitic acid (5.574 mg/g) were found as major phenolic compounds in the water fraction. The correlation of trace element copper content in extracts and fractions with mushroom enzyme activity was determined. By examining the enzyme kinetics of the compounds with effective cinnamic acid derivatives, inhibition types and enzyme binding constants Ki were calculated. Compounds 1,3 and 5 exhibited high noncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against L-tyrosine substrates, with IC50 values of 0.22, 0.31 and 0.37 mM respectively. In addition compounds 1, 3 and 5 showed dose-dependent inhibitory effects on intracellular tyrosinase and melanin levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. CONCLUSIONS: Potent tyrosinase inhibitory compounds and extracts of P. mahaleb kernels suggest that it could be a new, non-toxic and inexpensive resource for the cosmeceutical industry and in skin diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Pullulan in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical formulations: A review.

Pullulan, an α-glucan polysaccharide, is colorless, odorless, non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, highly biocompatible, edible and biodegradable in nature. The long chains of glucopyranose rings in pullulan structure are linked together by α-(1 â†’ 4) and α-(1 â†’ 6) glycosidic linkages. The occurrence of both glycosidic linkages in the pullulan structure contributes to its distinctive properties. The unique structure of pullulan makes it a potent candidate for both pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In pharmaceuticals, it can be used as a drug carrier and in various dosage formulations. It has been widely used in drug targeting, implants, ocular dosage forms, topical formulations, oral dosage forms, and oral liquid formulations, etc. Pullulan can be used as a potential carrier of active ingredients and their site-specific delivery to skin layers for cosmeceutical applications. It has been extensively used in cosmeceutical formulations like creams, shampoo, lotions, sunscreen, facial packs, etc. The current review highlights applications of pullulan in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands.

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC50: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC50: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC50: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

An Open-Label Study Evaluating the Periorbital Skin Rejuvenation Efficacy of a Cosmeceutical Containing Methyl Estradiolpropanoate (MEP) in Women With Estrogen Deficient Skin (EDS).

BACKGROUND: A cosmeceutical topical formulation containing a non-hormonal estrogen receptor activator, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate (MEP), has been developed to address periorbital skin aging in post-menopausal women with estrogen-deficient skin (EDS). OBJECTIVE: The primary objective of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of Emepelle Eye Cream® (Biopelle, Ferndale Pharma Group, Ferndale, MI, USA) for the rejuvenation of the periorbital skin areas in women EDS. The secondary objectives were to assess the tolerability and satisfaction with Emepelle Eye Cream as assessed by the clinical investigator and the participants. METHODS: Clinical improvement (ie, change from baseline visit) to the end of study topical application in the periorbital areas were assessed by the clinical investigator using the clinician-rated quality of periorbital skin area visual scoring scale and by the participant using the participant’s self-evaluation of the quality of periorbital skin area questionnaire. Secondary objectives and endpoints were assessed using a subject Quality of Life (QoL) evaluation, a clinician- and a participant-evaluation of tolerability and side effects, and the C-GAIS and P-GAIS questionnaires. Baseline scores were compared to scores at the follow-up visits. RESULTS: Clinician evaluations included a Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) rating of periorbital skin areas using a 6-point rating scale as well as tolerability and side effects. The averaged clinical GAIS improvement for all subjects who completed the study improved by 21%. The mean clinician GAIS score at study completion was 2.7, and 26 of the 31 subjects who completed the study showed improvement. A clinician GAIS score of 1 (very much improved) was observed in 3 study subjects. The averaged subject improvement results included improvements in each category at the primary endpoint. The subjects reported that their satisfaction with their periorbital appearance improved by 47% as compared to before treatment. The product was well tolerated by all subjects and no significant side effects were reported. CONCLUSION: In an open label study of 31 female subjects who had been amenorrheic for at least one year, topical application of Emepelle Eye Cream for periorbital skin rejuvenation was effective and well-tolerated. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(11):1185-1190. doi:10.36849/JDD.7279.

Anserine/Carnosine-Rich Extract from Thai Native Chicken Suppresses Melanogenesis via Activation of ERK Signaling Pathway.

Skin hyperpigmentation is an aesthetic problem that leads to psychosocial issues. Thus, skin whitening agents from agro- and poultry-industrial co-products are considered high economic value ingredients of interest for sustainable application. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the cosmeceutical potential of anserine/carnosine-rich chicken extract (ACCE) from the Thai native chicken Pradu Hang Dam Mor Kor 55 (PD) meat. The chemical composition was identified and quantified using the HPLC-UV method. Then, the antioxidation potential of the extract was compared to that of L-anserine and L-carnosine, using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay and shikonin-induced production of reactive oxygen species in CCD-986Sk cell models, and the anti-melanogenesis effect in the MNT-1 melanoma cell line model was investigated. Furthermore, related mechanisms were identified using colorimetric tyrosinase assay and the Western blot technique. The ACCE was composed of L-anserine and L-carnosine as two major constituents. In a dose-dependent manner, ACCE, L-anserine, and L-carnosine manifested significant antioxidation potential and significant reduction of melanin production. Activation of the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling pathway and inhibition of tyrosinase activity of ACCE were demonstrated as the mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis effect. In conclusion, ACCE has been revealed as a potential cosmeceutical agent due to its antioxidation and anti-melanogenic activity in association with L-anserine and L-carnosine composition and biomolecular regulating ability. Therefore, further studies and development should be considered to support the utilization of anserine/carnosine-rich chicken extract in the cosmetic industry for economic value creation and sustainability.

Molecular Analysis of the Melanogenesis Inhibitory Effect of Saponins-Rich Fraction of Argania spinosa Leaves Extract.

Plant saponins are abundant and diverse natural products with a great potential for use in drug-discovery research. Here, we evaluated extracts of saponins-rich fractions of argan leaves and argan oil extraction byproducts (shell, pulp, press cake) for their effect on melanogenesis. Results show that from among the samples tested, only the saponins-rich fraction from leaves (ALS) inhibited melanin production in B16 murine melanoma (B16) cells. The mechanism of the melanogenesis inhibition was elucidated by determining the protein and mRNA expression of melanogenesis-associated enzymes tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and performing DNA microarray analysis. Results showed that 10 µg/mL ALS significantly inhibited melanogenesis in B16 cells and human epidermal melanocytes by 59% and 48%, respectively, without cytotoxicity. The effect of ALS on melanogenesis can be attributed to the decrease in TYR, TRP1, and MITF expression at the protein and mRNA levels. MITF inhibition naturally led to the downregulation of the expression of Tyr and Trp1 genes. Results of the DNA microarray analysis revealed the effect on melanogenesis-associated cAMP and Wnt signaling pathways' genes. The results of this study suggest that ALS may be used in cosmeceuticals preparations for hyperpigmentation treatment.

Ameliorative Effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth Seed Extract Against Bacteria-Induced Acne Inflammation: in vitro study.

Currently, bioactive compounds derived from nature have been thought to be promising anti-acne substances owing to the variety of potential biological effects. This study aimed to evaluate the ameliorative effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth seed extract against bacteria-induced acne inflammation for the first time in terms of antibacterial effects against acne-inducing bacteria, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Initially, extracting procedures were optimized and five different extracts were obtained. Considering their antibacterial activities against Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis, ethanolic and ethyl acetate fractions exerted a notable effect which were highly superior above those of polyphenol standards. Additionally, these two extracts presented outstanding antioxidant capacities in terms of DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging effects, reducing power, and inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation which also play a role in the exacerbation of acne inflammation. Besides, inhibition on lipid peroxidation and reducing power of ethanolic fraction were significantly (p<0.05) better than those of ethyl acetate fraction which was corresponding to their phenolic and ellagic acid contents. However, flavonoids found in ethyl acetate fraction might play an important role in its potentials. After that, the anti-inflammatory effects of the extracts were elucidated by means of inhibition on nitric oxide production from LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cell lines at which the effects of both extracts were dosedependency. Taken together, our findings have apparently proven that B. macrophylla seed extracts exerted a variety of potential properties including antioxidation, anti-acne-inducing bacteria, and anti-inflammatory effects which could serve as a promising anti-acne agent for cosmeceutical applications.

Argan (Argania spinosa L.) Seed Oil Cake as a Potential Source of Protein-Based Film Matrix for Pharmaco-Cosmetic Applications.

Various different agri-food biomasses might be turned into renewable sources for producing biodegradable and edible plastics, potentially attractive for food, agricultural and cosmeceutical sectors. In this regard, different seeds utilized for edible and non-edible oil extraction give rise to high amounts of organic by-products, known as seed oil cakes (SOCs), potentially able to become protein-rich resources useful for the manufacturing of biodegradable films. This study reports the potential of SOC derived from Argania spinosa (argan), a well-known plant containing valuable non-refined oil suitable for food or cosmetic use, to be a promising valuable source for production of a protein-based matrix of biomaterials to be used in the pharmaco-cosmetic sector. Thus, glycerol-plasticized films were prepared by casting and drying using different amounts of argan seed protein concentrate, in the presence of increasing glycerol concentrations, and characterized for their morphological, mechanical, barrier, and hydrophilicity properties. In addition, their antioxidant activity and effects on cell viability and wound healing were investigated. The hydrophobic nature of the argan protein-based films, and their satisfying physicochemical and biological properties, suggest a biorefinery approach for the recycling of argan SOC as valuable raw material for manufacturing new products to be used in the cosmeceutical and food industries.

Boosting Cosmeceutical Peptides: Coupling Imidazolium-Based Ionic Liquids to Pentapeptide-4 Originates New Leads with Antimicrobial and Collagenesis-Inducing Activities.

Following our previous reports on dual-action antibacterial and collagenesis-inducing hybrid peptide constructs based on "pentapeptide-4" (PP4, with amino acid sequence KTTKS), whose N-palmitoyl derivative is the well-known cosmeceutical ingredient Matrixyl, herein we disclose novel ionic liquid/PP4 conjugates (IL-KTTKS). These conjugates present potent activity against either antibiotic-susceptible strains or multidrug resistant clinical isolates of both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial species belonging to the so-called "ESKAPE" group of pathogens. Noteworthy, their antibacterial activity is preserved in simulated wound fluid, which anticipates an effective action in the setting of a real wound bed. Moreover, their collagenesis-inducing effects in vitro are comparable to or stronger than those of Matrixyl. Altogether, IL-KTTKS exert a triple antibacterial, antifungal, and collagenesis-inducing action in vitro. These findings provide solid grounds for us to advance IL-KTTKS conjugates as promising leads for future development of topical treatments for complicated skin and soft tissue infections (cSSTI). Further studies are envisaged to incorporate IL-conjugates into suitable nanoformulations, to reduce toxicity and/or improve resistance to proteolytic degradation. IMPORTANCE As life expectancy increases, diseases causing chronic wound infections become more prevalent. Diabetes, peripheral vascular diseases, and bedridden patients are often associated with non-healing wounds that become infected, resulting in high morbidity and mortality. This is exacerbated by the fact that microbes are becoming increasingly resistant to antibiotics, so efforts must converge toward finding efficient therapeutic alternatives. Recently, our team identified a new type of constructs that combine (i) peptides used in cosmetics to promote collagen formation with (ii) imidazolium-based ionic liquids, which have antimicrobial and skin penetration properties. These constructs have potent wide-spectrum antimicrobial action, including against multidrug-resistant Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, and fungi. Moreover, they can boost collagen formation. Hence, this is an unprecedented class of lead molecules toward development of a new topical medicine for chronically infected wounds.

A Cosmeceutical Topical Water-in-Oil Nanoemulsion of Natural Bioactives: Design of Experiment, in vitro Characterization, and in vivo Skin Performance Against UVB Irradiation-Induced Skin Damages.

Introduction: Damage to human skin occurs either chronologically or through repetitive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, where collagen photodegradation leads to the formation of wrinkles and skin imperfections. Consequently, cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactives to restore or regenerate collagen have gained a remarkable attention as an ameliorative remedy. Methods: This study aimed to develop and optimize collagen-loaded water-in-oil nanoemulsion (W/O NE) through a D-optimal mixture design to achieve an ideal multifunctional nanosystem containing active constituents. Vit E was included as a constituent of the formulation for its antioxidant properties to minimize the destructive impact of UV radiation. The formulated systems were characterized in terms of their globule size, optical clarity, and viscosity. An optimized system was selected and evaluated for its physical stability, in vitro wound healing properties, and in vivo permeation and protection against UV radiation. In addition, the effect of collagen-loaded NE was compared to Vit C-loaded NE and collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture as Vit C is known to enhance collagen production within the skin. Results: The optimized NE was formulated with 25% oils (Vit E: safflower oil, 1:3), 54.635% surfactant/cosurfactant (Span 80: Kolliphor EL: Arlasolve, 1:1:1), and 20.365% water. The optimized NE loaded with either collagen or Vit C exhibited a skin-friendly appearance with boosted permeability, and improved cell viability and wound healing properties on fibroblast cell lines. Moreover, the in vivo study and histopathological investigations confirmed the efficacy of the developed system to protect the skin against UV damage. The results revealed that the effect of collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture was more pronounced, as both drugs reduced the skin damage to an extent that it was free from any detectable alterations. Conclusion: NE formulated using Vit E and containing collagen and/or Vit C could be a promising ameliorative remedy for skin protection against UVB irradiation.