Pistacia lentiscus L. Distilled Leaves as a Potential Cosmeceutical Ingredient: Phytochemical Characterization, Transdermal Diffusion, and Anti-Elastase and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities.

The present work was performed to investigate the phenolic composition of P. lentiscus L. distilled leaves (PDL) and examine its potential against certain key enzymes related to skin aging. High-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and various separation procedures combined with nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and MS analysis were performed to isolate and identify compounds present in the ethyl acetate extract (EAE) of PDL. A high amount of flavonol glycoside was detected in EAE. Indeed, quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FC), myricetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FM2), and kaempferol-3-O-rhamnoside (FB2) were isolated from EAE, and are present in high quantities of 10.47 ± 0.26, 12.17 ± 0.74, and 4.53 ± 0.59 mg/g dry weight, respectively. A transdermal diffusion study was carried out to determine the EAE-molecules that may transmit the cutaneous barrier and showed that FM2 transmits the membrane barrier with a high amount followed by FC. EAE, FM2, and FC were tested against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. Moreover, intracellular tyrosinase inhibition and cytotoxicity on skin melanoma cells (B16) were evaluated. The results indicated that EAE, FC, and FM2 have important inhibitory activities compared to the well-known standards, at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Therefore, they could be excellent agents for treating skin pigmentation and elasticity problems.

Exploring the Potential of Icelandic Seaweeds Extracts Produced by Aqueous Pulsed Electric Fields-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications.

A growing concern for overall health is driving a global market of natural ingredients not only in the food industry but also in the cosmetic field. In this study, a screening on potential cosmetic applications of aqueous extracts from three Icelandic seaweeds produced by pulsed electric fields (PEF) was performed. Produced extracts by PEF from Ulva lactuca, Alaria esculenta and Palmaria palmata were compared with the traditional hot water extraction in terms of polyphenol, flavonoid and carbohydrate content. Moreover, antioxidant properties and enzymatic inhibitory activities were evaluated by using in vitro assays. PEF exhibited similar results to the traditional method, showing several advantages such as its non-thermal nature and shorter extraction time. Amongst the three Icelandic species, Alaria esculenta showed the highest content of phenolic (mean value 8869.7 µg GAE/g dw) and flavonoid (mean value 12,098.7 µg QE/g dw) compounds, also exhibiting the highest antioxidant capacities. Moreover, Alaria esculenta extracts exhibited excellent anti-enzymatic activities (76.9, 72.8, 93.0 and 100% for collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase, respectively) for their use in skin whitening and anti-aging products. Thus, our preliminary study suggests that Icelandic Alaria esculenta-based extracts produced by PEF could be used as potential ingredients for natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics.

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

Sponges and Their Symbionts as a Source of Valuable Compounds in Cosmeceutical Field.

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Optimization of Two Eco-Friendly Extractions of Black Medick (Medicago lupulina L.) Phenols and Their Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical, α-Glucosidase and α-Amylase Inhibitory Properties.

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box-Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X1), extraction temperature (X2) and time (X3), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X1, X2, X3): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Novel postharvest processing strategies for value-added applications of marine algae.

Marine algae are regarded as a promising nutrients resource in future as they can be sustainably cultured without land and high investment. These macroalgae are now widely processed into food and beverages, fertilizers and animal feed. Furthermore, bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides and polyphenols in seaweeds have proven to have antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties that can be utilized in cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. As a key procedure in seaweed production, the postharvest process not only requires more laboured and energy but also affect the quality of the final product significantly. This article reviewed all current postharvest processes and technologies of seaweed and addressed potential postharvest strategies for seaweed production. © 2021 Society of Chemical Industry.

A Global Review on Short Peptides: Frontiers and Perspectives.

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Efficacy and safety of a 3-in-1 antiaging night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate through clinical and histological analysis.

BACKGROUND: Changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic photoaging result in signs of skin aging including altered pigmentation and wrinkles. A 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) was developed to treat skin aging by antioxidative and retinoid-like mechanisms. OBJECTIVE: To determine the clinical and histological effects of the 3-in-1 NFS on signs of skin aging, clinically and histologically. METHODS & MATERIALS: Twenty-four subjects applied serum nightly for 12 weeks, and 12 subjects continued an extension study to 24 weeks. Clinical assessment of skin quality was performed by dermatologists. Skin biopsy was performed at 12 weeks to assess histological changes. RESULTS: There was a global aesthetic improvement over the duration of the study: +1.21 points at 12 weeks; +1.25 at 24 weeks. Skin texture, pigmentation, erythema, skin tone, complexion, lines, and wrinkles all significantly improved (P < .05). There was also a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle scores, most notably horizontal forehead expression lines, and marionette lines (P < .05 for all). Dermal and epidermal thickness increased without reaching statistical significance. CONCLUSION: The 3-in-1 NFS had clinically and statistically significant effects on signs of skin aging after 12 weeks, which became more pronounced after 24 weeks.

Evaluation of moisturizing and irritation potential of sacha inchi oil.

OBJECTIVE: The moisturizing and irritation effects of sacha inchi oil were evaluated. STUDY DESIGN: The moisturizing effect on the skin was clinically assessed using a regression study design. Sacha inchi oil or olive oil (benchmark) was applied on the left or right lower leg of the subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days. The TEWL, skin moisture content and dryness appearance were observed. METHODS: The fatty acid composition and characteristics of cold-pressed sacha inchi seed oil were determined. Skin tissues cultured ex vivo were used to assess primary irritation induced by the oil by examining keratin 1 expression and TNF-α and IL-1α release from the oil-applied tissues. RESULTS: The sacha inchi oil contained 42.3% linolenic acid and 39.5% linoleic acid. This oil's saponification, iodine, acid and peroxide values were 168.58 ± 1.55 mg KOH/g, 203.00 ± 0.04 g I2 /100 g, 1.68 ± 0.03 mg KOH/g, and 1.95 ± 0.26 mEq peroxide/kg, respectively. Compared with nontreated skin tissues, induced secretion of TNF-α and IL-1α and disruption of keratin 1 integrity in the stratum corneum layer were not found in the sacha inchi oil-treated tissues. In a clinical study with 13 volunteers, the improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site. CONCLUSIONS: The sacha inchi oil was mild to the skin and benefited dry skin.

Antiaging and smoothness-improving properties of farnesol-based facial masks on rat skin exposed to ultraviolet B.

BACKGROUND: Farnesol is an acyclic sesquiterpene presents in various natural sources including fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In this study, we successfully prepared a farnesol-containing gel with ultraviolet B-screening and skin-repairing capabilities. Furthermore, the advantageous potential of farnesol-containing facial masks for UVB-caused sunburnt skin was evaluated. AIMS: Thus, the objectives of this study are to design and prepare optimal facial masks possessing collagen production and smoothness-enhancing capabilities for the skin. METHODS: A series of formulations consisting of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hyaluronan, and farnesol were used to prepare the facial masks. The effects of the facial masks on collagen production by skin fibroblasts in vitro were examined. The effects of the prepared masks on collagen synthesis, smoothness, and inflammation of the skin were further evaluated in vivo using two modes (mask administration interspersed with UVB exposure and mask administration after UVB exposure) of a rat model. RESULTS: Facial masks containing both 0.3 and 0.8 mM farnesol improved skin smoothness and enhanced collagen content and arrangement in the skin of rats with mask administration interspersed with and after UVB exposure. The masks containing 0.8 mM farnesol exerted the greatest effects on collagen production/arrangement and smoothness improvement in vivo model. Histopathologically observed inflammation was alleviated, and interleukin (IL)-6 was decreased in the 0.8 mM farnesol-containing facial mask-covered skin compared with that without facial masks. CONCLUSIONS: The farnesol-containing facial masks prepared in this study may have collagen production-increasing, smoothness-improving, and anti-inflammatory properties for UVB-caused sunburn; thus, farnesol is potentially a beneficial component in facial masks.

Advances in dermatology using DNA aptamer "Aptamin C" innovation: Oxidative stress prevention and effect maximization of vitamin C through antioxidation.

BACKGROUND: Vitamin C (also known as L-ascorbic acid) plays a critical role in reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and cell regeneration by protecting cell from oxidative stress. Although vitamin C is widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic markets, there is considerable evidence that vitamin C easily undergoes oxidation by air, pH, temperature, and UV light upon storage. This deficiency of vitamin C decreases its potency as an antioxidant and reduces the shelf-life of products containing vitamin C as its ingredient. To overcome the deficiency of vitamin C, we have developed Aptamin C, an innovative DNA aptamer maximizing the antioxidant efficacy of vitamin C by binding to the reduced form of vitamin C and delaying its oxidation. METHODS: Binding of Aptamin C with vitamin C was determined using ITC analysis. ITC experiment was performed 0.2 mmol/L vitamin C that was injected 25 times in 2 µL aliquots into the 1.8 mL sample cell containing the Aptamin C at a concentration of 0.02 mmol/L. The data were fitted to a one-site binding isotherm using with origin program for ITC v.5.0. RESULTS: To investigate the effect of Aptamin C and vitamin C complex in human skins, both in vitro and clinical tests were performed. We observed that the complex of Aptamin C and vitamin C was significantly effective in wrinkle improvement, whitening effect, and hydration increase. In the clinical test, subjects treated with the complex showed dramatic improvement in skin irritation and itching. No adverse reaction was presented by Aptamin C complex in the test. CONCLUSION: Taken together, these results showed that Aptamin C, an innovative novel compound, should potentially be served as a key cosmeceutical ingredient for a range of skin conditions.

Development of topical drug delivery system with Sphaeranthus indicus flower extract and its investigation on skin as a cosmeceutical product.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetics are the products used to beautify the skin. Emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. Sphaeranthus indicus is claimed to be used for skin beautification in folk medicine. Multiple emulsion was formulated containing the extract of S indicus flowers. AIMS: This research study indicates that extract of S indicus flowers contains sufficient amount of polyphenols and also possess good antioxidant activity with mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. METHOD: Further, stable multiple emulsion was developed and stability testing was performed for 180 days by keeping the multiple emulsion at 8°C ± 1, 25°C ± 1, 40°C ± 1, and 40°C ± 1 with 75% ± 1 RH. Parameters checked were color change, phase distribution, viscosity, droplet size and size distribution, pH determination, and electrical conductivity. Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined which also showed promising results. Skin testing on human volunteers was done for 3 months after biosafety profiling of the most stable multiple emulsion. RESULTS: This also showed remarkable effects. Skin erythema, melanin, and sebum were reduced. Skin hydration and elasticity were increased. There was also reduction in the number of skin large and small skin pores. Skin spot area was also reduced by the use of multiple emulsion loaded with S indicus flower extract. ANOVA test showed that all the effects produced on skin were significant, ie, P ≤ .05. CONCLUSION: A stable multiple emulsion was developed which produced significant cosmetic effects on human skin.

Nanotechnological breakthroughs in the development of topical phytocompounds-based formulations.

Cosmeceuticals are a type of cosmetic products distinguished by the presence of active ingredients that, in addition to their cosmetic effects, also hold therapeutic outcomes. This review is focused on phytocompounds (PHYTOCs)-based cosmeceuticals, an established segment of cosmetic industry, due to the great demand for vitamins and plant-derived products. PHYTOCs beauty and health-related applications are due to their anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial, wound-healing, anti-aging, sun protection, cytoprotective, anticarcinogenic and anti-inflammatory activities. However, PHYTOCs present disadvantages, precisely the poor solubility, instability, reduced skin permeation and low skin retention time, which strongly restrict their topical application. Therefore, and since the cosmetic industry constantly pursues groundbreaking technological products, nanotechnology emerges as an innovative strategy to tackle the PHYTOCs recognized limitations. Nanotechnology manipulates and reduces materials size to 1 and 100 nm, creating structures able to encapsulate active ingredients, such as PHYTOCs, with the purpose of overcoming their limitations and delivering them in a controlled manner to the skin. This review highlights the potential properties of PHYTOCs loaded in several types of nanocarriers (liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, transferosomes, cubosomes, phytosomes, nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, polymeric nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, carbon nanotubes, fullerenes, and dendrimers) used to overcome PHYTOCs free form limitations and potentiate their cosmeceutical properties. An approach to the "green" chemical synthesis of metallic nanoparticles taking advantage of PHYTOCS as natural reducing agents is exposed as well. Nanocosmeceuticals toxicity concerns and regulatory aspects are also addressed.

Recovery of Natural Antioxidants from Agro-Industrial Side Streams through Advanced Extraction Techniques.

Large amounts of agro-industrial waste are being generated each year, leading to pollution and economic loss. At the same time, these side streams are rich source of active compounds including antioxidants. Recovered compounds can be re-utilized as food additives, functional foods, nutra-/pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals, beauty products, and bio-packaging. Advanced extraction techniques are promising tools to recover target compounds such as antioxidants from agro-industrial side streams. Due to the disadvantages of classical extraction techniques (such as large amounts of solvents, increased time of extraction, large amounts of remaining waste after the extraction procedure, etc.), and advanced techniques emerged, in order to obtain more efficient and sustainable processes. In this review paper aspects regarding different modern extraction techniques related to recovery of antioxidant compounds from wastes generated in different industries and their applications are briefly discussed.

Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products.

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.

From bench to counter: Discovery and validation of a peony extract as tyrosinase inhibiting cosmeceutical.

The anti-melanogenic principle of peony (Paeonia officinalis subsp. officinalis) seeds was elucidated via activity-guided isolation. Resveratroloside (trans-resveratrol-4'-O-beta-d-glucopyranoside) was found to be the main metabolite of P. officinalis subsp. officinalis seeds and its tyrosinase inhibiting activity was confirmed via an enzymatic assay. Furthermore, the in vitro activity and the therapeutic window were studied employing the murine melanoma cell line B16F10. The results from the conducted stability assay and the high content of resveratroloside in the seeds (i.e. 10.4% dw) motivated us to push the extract forward to an in vivo tolerance assay. A clinical study with forty Caucasian participants proofed a good skin-tolerance with high moisture effect and reduction of pores.

The inhibitory effect of silk sericin against ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis and its potential use in cosmeceutics as an anti-hyperpigmentation compound.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced redox imbalance in melanocytes triggers the activation of tyrosinase that results in melanogenesis and its related skin disorders. Supplementation of biological reductants or anti-tyrosinase compounds inhibits such melanogenesis. Silk sericin (SS), a globular protein, is known to possess antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities along with other biological attributes. However, its inhibitory activity against UVR-induced melanogenesis has yet to be explored. In the current study, we have scientifically explored the inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis. Anti-tyrosinase activity of SS was assessed using mushroom tyrosinase, showing that Antheraea assamensis sericin (AAS) and Philosamia ricini sericin (PRS) inhibited 50% of its activity. Inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis was assessed by measuring the cellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in mouse melanoma. SS pretreatment significantly reduced cellular melanin and ROS production in UV irradiated melanocytes compared with SS untreated cells. AAS treatment before UVA or UVB irradiation significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity. Rheological studies showed that the skin care formulation prepared by the addition of AAS to the basic formulation minimally affected its flow properties. Altogether, our results validate that AAS efficiently inhibited UVR-induced melanogenesis and it could be used as a potential antioxidant molecule in skin care cosmeceutics.

Selected application of peptide molecules as pharmaceutical agents and in cosmeceuticals.

Introduction: Peptide molecules are being vastly investigated as an emerging class of therapeutic molecules in recent years. Currently, 60 peptides have been approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and more would enter the market in near future. Peptides have already opened their ways into cosmeceutical and food industries as well.Areas covered: Antibodies, vaccines, and antimicrobial agents are the major classes of therapeutic peptides. Additionally, peptides may be employed in drug development to support cell penetration or targeting. The interest in antimicrobial peptides is surging due to the increasing risk of antibiotic-resistant pathogens. Peptide vaccines with their significant advantages compared with traditional vaccines, are expected to find their place in coming years, especially for cancer, microbial and allergen-specific immunotherapy. The usage of peptides in cosmeceuticals is also growing rapidly.Expert opinion: Peptide synthesis has become accessible, and advances in peptide engineering, sequencing technologies, and structural bioinformatics have resulted in the rational designing of novel peptides. All these advancements would lead to the more prominent roles of peptides in the mentioned areas. In this review, we discuss applications of peptides in different fields including pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals, besides the critical factors in designing efficient peptide molecules.