Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Antimicrobial Peptides: Challenging Journey to the Pharmaceutical, Biomedical, and Cosmeceutical Use.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), or host defence peptides, are short proteins in various life forms. Here we discuss AMPs, which may become a promising substitute or adjuvant in pharmaceutical, biomedical, and cosmeceutical uses. Their pharmacological potential has been investigated intensively, especially as antibacterial and antifungal drugs and as promising antiviral and anticancer agents. AMPs exhibit many properties, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry. AMPs are being developed as novel antibiotics to combat multidrug-resistant pathogens and as potential treatments for various diseases, including cancer, inflammatory disorders, and viral infections. In biomedicine, AMPs are being developed as wound-healing agents because they promote cell growth and tissue repair. The immunomodulatory effects of AMPs could be helpful in the treatment of autoimmune diseases. In the cosmeceutical industry, AMPs are being investigated as potential ingredients in skincare products due to their antioxidant properties (anti-ageing effects) and antibacterial activity, which allows the killing of bacteria that contribute to acne and other skin conditions. The promising benefits of AMPs make them a thrilling area of research, and studies are underway to overcome obstacles and fully harness their therapeutic potential. This review presents the structure, mechanisms of action, possible applications, production methods, and market for AMPs.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

A Global Review on Short Peptides: Frontiers and Perspectives.

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products.

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.

Immunopharmacology and immunopathology of peptides and proteins in personal products.

The beneficial effects promoted from the use of biomolecular substances into the formulations of personal care products are considered useful ingredients in cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Innovations in cosmetics are based on new bioactive formulations such as vitamins, oils, peptides, and protein hydrolysates. In skin care, the monomeric amino acids such as serine, threonine, alanine are common ingredients in cosmetics as they function as natural moisturizing factors which act as water-binding molecules. Amino acids and their salts e.g., arginine, glycine, etc. are also used as hair- and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic formulations. The peptides are composed of short chain of amino acids and are used in cosmetics due to their numerous pathophysiological properties including anti-aging. There is growing interest in bioactive peptides in products for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in skin and improve surface healing. The main benefit of using proteins in cosmeceuticals is to improve the hydration of skin. Proteins increase the dehydration in the skin which helps to reduce wrinkles and improves the functions of the skin barrier. This review article describes the peptides, proteins that are most frequently used in cosmeceuticals and their potential benefits and practical use in cosmetic science and skincare.

Acne and Rosacea: Special Considerations in the Treatment of Patients With Latin American Ancestry

Acne is a common disease among patients with Latin American ancestry. Its presentation is very similar to that in all skin types, but nodulocystic acne is more frequent in patients with oily and darker skin than in white Caucasians. Acne sequelae in patients with Latin American ancestry and with darker skin include postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and atrophic and hypertrophic scars or keloids, with PIH being the most common complication affecting the quality of life of patients. Lately, more attention has been paid to rosacea in patients with darker skin. It has been seen that some of the patients, especially women, diagnosed with adult acne and who did not respond to treatment, were actually patients with rosacea. It is important to recognize the clinical characteristics of this disease in patients with darker skin in whom erythema and telangiectasia are difficult to observe. Here, we present the most relevant clinical characteristics of both diseases, as well as their treatment in patients with darker skin with Latin American ancestry. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3 Suppl):s124-126.

How to Use Oral and Topical Cosmeceuticals to Prevent and Treat Skin Aging.

Skin aging is caused by DNA damage in nuclei and mitochondria, inflammation, glycation, decreased function of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and breakdown of heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. Identifying patients at an increased risk of skin aging using a standardized methodology to diagnose the Baumann Skin Type will allow doctors to prescribe an efficacious antiaging skin care regimen. Cosmeceuticals can activate LGR6+ stem cells, improve cell response to signals such as growth factors, stimulate collagen genes, neutralize free radicals, and decrease breakdown of collagen and elastin. Giving written instructions will increase patient compliance and improve outcomes.

Cosmeceuticals for rosacea.

Patients with rosacea present a challenge to the dermatologist, as they typically possess sensitive skin, need facial Demodex and bacterial colonization control, exhibit vasomotor instability, require camouflaging of telangiectatic mats, and desire prescription treatment. Currently available pharmaceuticals are aimed at inflammation reduction, primarily with the use of topical and oral antibiotics. Recently, vasoconstrictor formulations have emerged, but these drugs have only a temporary effect and improve appearance without addressing the underlying cause, which remains largely unknown. Cosmeceuticals, including cleansers, moisturizers, cosmetics, sunscreens, and anti-inflammatory botanicals, can be used as adjuvant therapies in combination with traditional therapies. This review explores the effective use of cosmeceuticals in the treatment of rosacea to enhance pharmaceutical outcomes and meet patient expectations in a more satisfactory manner.

Skin Care for Women.

Women are inundated with advertisements for products promising younger-looking, healthier skin. The truth is that many of these products can be expensive and produce results that do not live up to the claims. Health care providers can educate women about proven best practices and how to evaluate products' claims of benefits. The best advice is that a well-balanced diet, adequate hydration, use of a topical moisturizer, protection from the sun, and avoiding smoking and tobacco are the most effective measures to not only healthy skin but a healthful life.

Rosacea treatment update: recommendations from the global ROSacea COnsensus (ROSCO) panel.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea is currently treated according to subtypes. As this does not adequately address the spectrum of clinical presentation (phenotypes), it has implications for patient management. The ROSacea COnsensus panel was established to address this issue. OBJECTIVES: To incorporate current best treatment evidence with clinical experience from an international expert panel and establish consensus to improve outcomes for patients with rosacea. METHODS: Seventeen dermatologists and three ophthalmologists reached consensus on critical aspects of rosacea treatment and management using a modified Delphi approach. The panel voted on statements using the responses 'strongly disagree', 'disagree', 'agree' or 'strongly agree'. Consensus was defined as ≥ 75% 'agree' or 'strongly agree'. All voting was electronic and blinded. RESULTS: The panel agreed on phenotype-based treatments for signs and symptoms presenting in individuals with rosacea. First-line treatments were identified for individual major features of transient and persistent erythema, inflammatory papules/pustules, telangiectasia and phyma, underpinned by general skincare measures. Multiple features in an individual patient can be simultaneously treated with multiple agents. If treatment is inadequate given appropriate duration, another first-line option or the addition of another first-line agent should be considered. Maintenance treatment depends on treatment modality and patient preferences. Ophthalmological referral for all but the mildest ocular features should be considered. Lid hygiene and artificial tears in addition to medications are used to treat ocular rosacea. CONCLUSIONS: Rosacea diagnosis and treatment should be based on clinical presentation. Consensus was achieved to support this approach for rosacea treatment strategies.

Topical Products for the Aging Face.

This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use.

Combination Therapy in Midfacial Rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Facial aging in the midface reflects cumulative results of multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors over time. Midfacial rejuvenation procedures can make a positive impact on facial attractiveness and patient satisfaction. OBJECTIVE: To review evidence and clinical experience using combination treatments for midfacial rejuvenation to achieve optimal outcomes. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This article provides a review of published scientific evidence supporting the use of combination therapy in midfacial rejuvenation. In addition, the authors share their cumulative clinical experience and best practices for combination treatments in the midface. RESULTS: Clinical experience and evidence shows that combining multiple aesthetic therapies targeting multiple aspects of the aging process provides optimal results, with greater overall efficacy and a higher level of patient satisfaction.

Natural Cosmeceutical Ingredients for Hyperpigmentation.

As Dermatologists caring for patients with hyperpigmentation problems, we are always looking for more alternative therapies. Hydroquinone (HQ) is still the standard of care. However, traditional depigmenting agents such as HQ and corticosteroids, although highly effective, can raise safety concerns including exogenous ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis and local and systemic untoward effects with long term use. Therefore, we need to investigate non-prescription natural alternatives. This manuscript presents many of the natural ingredients found in cosmeceuticals for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and their mechanisms of action. It will also describe the melanocyte activation pathways and how each of these ingredients interferes with it.