Circular economyeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae as a sustainable source of glucans and its safety for skincare application.

Glucans, a polysaccharide naturally present in the yeast cell wall that can be obtained from side streams generated during the fermentation process, have gained increasing attention for their potential as a skin ingredient. Therefore, this study focused on the extraction method to isolate and purify water-insoluble glucans from two different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains: an engineered strain obtained from spent yeast in an industrial fermentation process and a wild strain produced through lab-scale fermentation. Two water-insoluble extracts with a high glucose content (> 90 %) were achieved and further subjected to a chemical modification using carboxymethylation to improve their water solubility. All the glucans' extracts, water-insoluble and carboxymethylated, were structurally and chemically characterized, showing almost no differences between both yeast-type strains. To ensure their safety for skin application, a broad safety assessment was undertaken, and no cytotoxic effect, immunomodulatory capacity (IL-6 and IL-8 regulation), genotoxicity, skin sensitization, and impact on the skin microbiota were observed. These findings highlight the potential of glucans derived from spent yeast as a sustainable and safe ingredient for cosmetic and skincare formulations, contributing to the sustainability and circular economy.

ß-Glucan extracts as high-value multifunctional ingredients for skin health: A review.

ß-Glucans, which are naturally present in cereals, yeast, and mushrooms, have gained attention as a potential natural source for functional foods and pharmaceuticals. Due to the availability of ß-glucans from several sources, different extraction methods can be employed to obtain high purity extracts that can be further modified to enhance their solubility or other biological properties. Apart from their known ability to interact with the immune system, ß-glucans possess specific properties that could benefit overall skin health and prevent age-related signs, including soothing and antioxidant activities. As a result, the use of ß-glucans to mitigate damage caused by environmental stressors or skin-related issues that accelerate skin aging or trigger chronic inflammation may represent a promising, natural, eco-friendly, and cost-effective approach to maintaining skin homeostasis balance. This review outlines ß-glucan extraction methodologies, molecular structure, functionalization approaches, and explores skin-related benefits of ß-glucans, along with an overview of related products in the market.

Biogenic silica microparticles as a new and sustainable cosmetic ingredient: Assessment of performance and quality parameters.

The demand for sustainable products is increasing worldwide and cosmetic industry is not an exception. Besides exploring nature as source of new ingredients, their production must be sustainable and should use environmentally friendly processes. In this work, biogenic silica microparticles were synthesized from sugarcane ash, and their potential application as cosmetic and skincare ingredient was evaluated. For such application, several properties were validated, including cytotoxicity in skin keratinocytes, potential sensitization effect on skin peptides, stimulation of pro-collagen I alpha 1, wound healing capacity, as well as the ingredient stability along a storage period. Biogenic silica showed to be non-cytotoxic on skin keratinocytes, at concentrations up to 5 wt%, and non-skin sensitizer. A positive effect on the stimulation of pro-collagen I alpha 1 suggests a potential anti-ageing activity, while the migration of fibroblasts to a wounded area suggests a regenerative capacity. Under an accelerated stability study, biogenic silica showed an increase on the loss on drying, but no changes were observed on its functional properties, mainly oil absorption capacity, as well the microbiological quality, which was maintained. Overall, novel biogenic silica microparticles produced from a sustainable source are safe, stable over time and have potential to be used as a cosmetic and skincare ingredient.