Ecotoxicological assessment of UV filters benzophenone-3 and TiO2 nanoparticles, isolated and in a mixture, in developing zebrafish (Danio rerio).

The increasing use of UV filters, such as benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs), has raised concerns regarding their ecotoxicological effects on the aquatic environment. The aim of the present study was to examine the embryo-larval toxicity attributed to BP-3 or TiO2 NPs, either alone or in a mixture, utilizing zebrafish (Danio rerio) as a model after exposure to environmentally relevant concentrations of these compounds. Zebrafish embryos were exposed to BP-3 (10, 100, or 1000 ng/L) or TiO2 NPs (1000 ng/L) alone or in a mixture (BP-3 10, 100, or 1000 ng/L plus 1000 ng/L of TiO2 NPs) under static conditions for 144 hr. After exposure, BP-3 levels were determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). BP-3 levels increased in the presence of TiO2 NPs, indicating that the BP-3 degradation decreased in the presence of the NPs. In addition, in the presence of zebrafish, BP-3 levels in water decreased, indicating that zebrafish embryos and larvae might absorb BP-3. Data demonstrated that, in general, environmentally relevant concentrations of BP-3 and TiO2 NPs, either alone or in a mixture, did not significantly induce changes in heart and spontaneous contractions frequencies, levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), morphological and morphometric parameters as well as mortality rates during 144 hr exposure. However, the groups exposed to TiO2 NPs alone and in a mixture with BP-3 at 10 ng/L exhibited an earlier significant hatching rate than the controls. Altogether, the data indicates that a potential ecotoxicological impact on the aquatic environment exists.

Monte Carlo simulations of light transport in sunscreen formulations.

Sunscreens are used for the protection of human skin against the harmful effects of solar UV radiation. Due to the low thickness of sunscreen films typically applied to the skin, it can be challenging to achieve the strong absorbance needed for good UV-protection, and most efficient sunscreen compositions are desirable. The presence of scattering particles can increase the efficacy of dissolved UV-absorbers in the oil or water phases of the formulation. As many sunscreens contain UV-absorbing particles, it is of interest how much the scattering effect of such materials contribute to the protection of the respective sunscreen. The currently available software programs for simulating sunscreen performance are based on a Beer-Lambert law approach and do not take into account such scattering effects of particles. However, Monte Carlo simulations of the UV-light transport through sunscreen films are capable to take scattering from particles into consideration. Using Monte Carlo simulations, this work shows that the efficacy of absorbance is indeed increased in the presence of scattering particles. However, this is of limited significance when the particles are UV-absorbers themselves.

Comprehensive assessment of the UV-filter 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and its phase I/II metabolites in urine by extended enzymatic hydrolysis and on-line SPE LC-MS/MS.

2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) is used as a UV filter in personal-care products, such as sunscreen, to prevent skin damage through UV radiation. The application of EHS-containing products leads to systemic EHS absorption, metabolization and excretion. To measure EHS and its corresponding metabolite levels in urine, a comprehensive analytical procedure based on an extended enzymatic hydrolysis, on-line-SPE, and UPLC-MS/MS was developed. The method covers a large profile of seven metabolites (including isomeric structures) as well as EHS itself in a run time only of 18 min. Easy sample preparation, consisting of a 2-h hydrolysis step, followed by on-line enrichment and purification, add to the efficiency of the method. An update, compared to a previous method for the determination of EHS and metabolites in urine, is that, during hydrolysis, both glucuronide and sulfate conjugates are considered. The method was furthermore applied to urine samples after a real-life exposure scenario to EHS-containing sunscreen. The method is highly sensitive with limits of detection ranging from 6 to 65 ng/L. Moreover, it is characterized by good precision data, accuracy, and robustness to matrix influences. Application of the method to urine samples following dermal exposure to an EHS-containing sunscreen revealed EHS as the main biomarker after dermal exposure, followed by the major biomarkers 5OH-EHS, 5cx-EPS, 4OH-EHS and 5oxo-EHS. The expansion and optimization of this method decisively contributes to the research on the dermal metabolism of EHS and can be applied in exposure studies and for human biomonitoring.

Use of in vitro ADME methods to identify suitable analogs of homosalate and octisalate for use in a read-across safety assessment.

Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties. We describe how technical aspects of conducting assays for these highly lipophilic chemicals were addressed and interpreted. There were several properties that were common to all five chemicals: they all had similar stability in gastrointestinal fluids (in which no hydrolysis to salicylic occurred); were not substrates of the P-glycoprotein efflux transporter; were highly protein bound; and were hydrolyzed to salicylic acid (which was also a major metabolite). The main properties differentiating the chemicals were their permeability in Caco-2 cells, plasma stability, clearance in hepatic models, and the extent of hydrolysis to salicylic acid. Cyclohexyl salicylate, octisalate, and homosalate were identified suitable analogs for each other, whereas butyloctyl salicylate exhibited ADME properties that were markedly different, indicating it is unsuitable. Isoamyl salicylate can be a suitable analog with interpretation for octisalate. In conclusion, in vitro ADME properties of five chemicals were measured and used to pair target and potential analogs. This study demonstrates the importance of robust ADME data for the selection of analogs in a read-across safety assessment.

In vitro Safety Assessment of Extracts and Compounds From Plants as Sunscreen Ingredients.

This work investigated the safety of extracts obtained from plants growing in Colombia, which have previously shown UV-filter/antigenotoxic properties. The compounds in plant extracts obtained by the supercritical fluid (CO2) extraction method were identified using gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS) analysis. Cytotoxicity measured as cytotoxic concentration 50% (CC50) and genotoxicity of the plant extracts and some compounds were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion assay and the Comet assay, respectively. The extracts from Pipper eriopodon and Salvia aratocensis species and the compound trans-ß-caryophyllene were clearly cytotoxic to human fibroblasts. Conversely, Achyrocline satureioides, Chromolaena pellia, and Lippia origanoides extracts were relatively less cytotoxic with CC50 values of 173, 184, and 89 µg/mL, respectively. The C. pellia and L. origanoides extracts produced some degree of DNA breaks at cytotoxic concentrations. The cytotoxicity of the studied compounds was as follows, with lower CC50 values representing the most cytotoxic compounds: resveratrol (91 µM) > pinocembrin (144 µM) > quercetin (222 µM) > titanium dioxide (704 µM). Quercetin was unique among the compounds assayed in being genotoxic to human fibroblasts. Our work indicates that phytochemicals can be cytotoxic and genotoxic, demonstrating the need to establish safe concentrations of these extracts for their potential use in cosmetics.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp.

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of hair cosmetics using the hemispherical directional reflectance method.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each. RESULTS: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair.

Calcium phosphates from fish bones in sunscreen: An LCA and toxicity study of an emerging material for circular economy.

The use of sustainable and natural materials is an ever-increasing trend in cosmetic. Natural calcium phosphate (CaP-N) from food by-products and especially from fisheries (i.e., bones), has been suggested as a sustainable option to chemicals commonly used in cosmetic products, in particular to UV-filters in sunscreens. However, the environmental benefits and impacts of its production and use are still uncertain as they have never been quantified. In this paper, we report on toxicological characterization of CaP-N produced from incineration of fish meal in a pilot scale plant. Furthermore, we quantified the environmental burdens linked to the partial substitution of UV-filters by CaP-N through the life cycle assessment (LCA) comparing CaP-N with zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) as alternative option. CaP-N consists in a biphasic mixture 53:47 of hydroxyapatite:ß-tricalcium phosphate, and is made of round particles with a diameter in the range of a few microns. Toxicity tests on 4 aquatic species (Dunaliella tertiolecta, Tigriopus fulvus, Corophium insidiosum and Gammarus aequicauda) revealed that CaP-N does not produce any adverse effect, all the species showing EC/LC50 values higher than 100 mg L-1. Moreover, during the 96 h acute toxicity test on C. insidiosum, which is a tube-building species, the specimens built their tubes with the available CaP-N, further attesting the non-toxicity of the material. The LCA study showed that the environmental performance of CaP-N is better than that of ZnO NPs for 11 out of 16 impact categories analysed in this study, especially for the categories Ecotoxicity and Eutrophication of freshwaters (an order of magnitude lower), and with the exception of fossil resources for which CaP-N has a significantly higher impact than ZnO NPs (+140 %). Concluding, our study demonstrates that the replacement of ZnO NPs with CaP-N thermally extracted from fish bones in cosmetic products can increase their safety and sustainability.

Octocrylene: From Sunscreens to the Degradation Pathway during Chlorination Processes: Formation of Byproducts and Their Ecotoxicity Assessment.

Octocrylene is an organic sunscreen whose main action is to absorb UVB radiation and short UVA wavelengths; it is used in various cosmetic products in order to provide an adequate sun-protection factor or to protect the cosmetic formulations themselves from UV radiation. This filter is believed to be a possible endocrine disruptor and is also questioned due to its allergic and/or photoallergic potential. However, it continues to be widely used, and it has been found in various environments, not least those of swimming pools, where it is evidently released by consumers, to the point that it is now considered an emerging micropollutant. The present investigation presents the possible chemical fate of octocrylene in the typical chlorination conditions of wastewater or swimming pools. A total of 11 disinfection byproducts were identified, and 6 were identified for the first time, and separated by HPLC. These products were identified through careful mass spectrometry studies and 1D and 2D NMR experiments. A formation mechanism has been proposed that justifies the chemical structures of all of the compounds identified. The ecotoxicological assessment of octocrylene and their products was carried out by employing Phaeodactylum tricornutum, Brachionus plicatilis and Aliivibrio fischeri as bioindicators. The ecotoxicity results reveal that toxic byproducts might be generated during the oxidation process, increasing the potential risk to the marine environment.

Aquatic Toxicity Effects and Risk Assessment of 'Form Specific' Product-Released Engineered Nanomaterials.

The study investigated the toxicity effects of 'form specific' engineered nanomaterials (ENMs) and ions released from nano-enabled products (NEPs), namely sunscreens, sanitisers, body creams and socks on Pseudokirchneriella subcapitata, Spirodela polyrhiza, and Daphnia magna. Additionally, risk estimation emanating from the exposures was undertaken. The ENMs and the ions released from the products both contributed to the effects to varying extents, with neither being a uniform principal toxicity agent across the exposures; however, the effects were either synergistic or antagonistic. D. magna and S. polyrhiza were the most sensitive and least sensitive test organisms, respectively. The most toxic effects were from ENMs and ions released from sanitisers and sunscreens, whereas body creams and sock counterparts caused negligible effects. The internalisation of the ENMs from the sunscreens could not be established; only adsorption on the biota was evident. It was established that ENMs and ions released from products pose no imminent risk to ecosystems; instead, small to significant adverse effects are expected in the worst-case exposure scenario. The study demonstrates that while ENMs from products may not be considered to pose an imminent risk, increasing nanotechnology commercialization may increase their environmental exposure and risk potential; therefore, priority exposure cases need to be examined.

Assessment of Natural Sunlight Protection Provided by 10 High-SPF Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens and Sun-Protective Fabrics.

In 1978, the FDA Advisory Panel proposed both indoor and natural sunlight SPF testing methods but reverted to indoor testing only in 1993. Today's sunscreen sun protection and broad-spectrum claims are based on mandated clinical tests using solar simulators and in vitro spectrophotometers. This research evaluated the protection of 10 high-SPF (30-110), broad-spectrum sunscreen products, as well as 6 sun-protective fabrics against natural sunlight in Arequipa, Peru. Each of the 17 subjects was exposed to natural sunlight for 1 h and 59 min under clear skies, with temperatures and humidity similar to those in an indoor clinical laboratory. Test sites were photographed 16-24 h later. Four dermatologists evaluated the photographs for erythema and persistent pigment darkening (PPD). Perceptible sun-induced skin injury (sunburn and/or pigmentation) was detected at 97% of the sunscreen-protected scores. The most sun-sensitive subjects obtained the least erythema protection. The higher the SPF was, the higher the erythema protection, but the intensity of PPD was also higher. The 2 sunscreens using only FDA-approved sunscreen filters rated 30 SPF and 45+ SPF performed poorly: Eighty-one percent of the 136 scores were graded 1 minimal erythema dose or higher erythema, achieving, at a maximum, SPF of 5-7 in natural sunlight. Sun-protective fabrics tested provided excellent sun protection. The erythema and PPD observed through the sunscreens in less than 2 h are incongruous with the broad-spectrum, high-SPF sunscreen claims. Reapplying these sunscreens and staying in the sun longer, as stated on the product labels, would have subjected the subjects to even more UV exposure. High-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen claims based on indoor solar simulator testing do not agree with the natural sunlight protection test results.

Acute toxicity and ecological risk assessment of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC in ultraviolet (UV)-filters.

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are used in cosmetics, personal care products and packaging materials to provide sun protection for human skin and other substances. Little is known about these substances, but they continue to be released into the environment. The acute toxicity of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC to Chlorella vulgaris and Daphnia magna were analyzed in this study. The 96 h-EC50 values of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC on C. vulgaris were 183.60, 3.50 and 0.16874 mg/L, respectively. The 48 h-LC50 of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC on D. magna were 12.50, 3.74 and 0.54445 mg/L, respectively. The toxicity of a mixture of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC showed addictive effect on C. vulgaris, while the toxicity of mixtures of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone and 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC as well as 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC all showed antagonistic effect on C. vulgaris. The induced no-effect concentrations of 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone and 4-MBC by the assessment factor (AF) method were 0.0125, 0.00350 and 0.000169 mg/L, respectively.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains as bioindicators for titanium dioxide sunscreen photoprotective and photomutagenic assessment.

Although several short-term assays are available for cosmetic photosafety assessment, cell models are usually highly sensitive to UV radiation, tending to overestimate both phototoxic and photomutagenic risks. In addition, these assays are performed with UV doses/fluences that do not correspond to actual environmental conditions. In this sense, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has already proved to be an interesting tool to predict photomutagenic potential of several compounds, including sunscreens. Yeast can support environmental UVB doses compatible with human daily sunlight exposure, allowing the use of irradiation sources to faithfully mimic the external conditions of ambient sunlight. Herein, we used a set of S. cerevisiae mutant strains sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light sources in order to evaluate their potential as bioindicators for sunscreen development. The bioindicator potential of the strains was tested with the widely-used titanium dioxide inorganic sunscreen. The AWP001 (yno1) and LPW002 (ogg1yno1) strains obtained in this study stood out as promising experimental tools for the validation of this assay. Overall, our results evidenced a set of S. cerevisiae strains particularly useful for evaluating both photoprotective (efficacy) and photo/antiphotomutagenic (safety) potential of UV filters, meeting the industries and regulatory agencies demand for robust and efficient in vitro screening tests.

Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens.

Olive leaves contain higher amount of polyphenols than olive oil and represent a waste product from olive harvest and pruning of olive trees. The most abundant compound in olive leaves is oleuropein. Benefits of the topical application of olive leaves extract were previously reported, but little information is available on its photoprotective potential and the result of the association of this extract with organic UV filters in topical sunscreen formulations. The olive leaves extract photoprotective potential is less explored for both oral and topical photoprotection in comparison with other plants extracts and polyphenols, such as Polypodium leucotomos extract and resveratrol. There are increasing efforts towards developing more efficient sunscreens and a photoprotection assessement along with a better understanding of the photochemistry of naturally occurring sunscreens could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations. This study was designed to investigate the photoprotective potential of olive leaves extract standardized for oleuropein performing a set of in vitro and in silico tools as an innovative approach, highlighting yeast assays, in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and molecular modelling studies of UV absorption. This study supports the use of olive leaves extract for photoprotection, as an effective photoprotective, anti-mutagenic and antioxidant active, also showing a synergistic effect in association with UV filters with an improvement on in vitro SPF of sunscreen formulations.

Concentration dependence of in vitro biotransformation rates of hydrophobic organic sunscreen agents in rainbow trout S9 fractions: Implications for bioaccumulation assessment.

In vitro biotransformation studies were performed to support the bioaccumulation assessment of 3 hydrophobic organic ultraviolet filters (UVFs), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and octocrylene. In vitro depletion rate constants (kdep ) were determined for each UVF using rainbow trout liver S9 fractions. Incubations performed with and without added cofactors showed complete (4-MBC) or partial (EHMC and octocrylene) dependence of kdep on addition of the reduced form of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH), suggesting that hydrolysis of EHMC and octocrylene by NADPH-independent enzymes (e.g., carboxylesterases) is an important metabolic route. The concentration dependence of kdep was then evaluated to estimate Michaelis-Menten parameters (KM and Vmax ) for each UVF. Measured kdep values were then extrapolated to apparent whole-body biotransformation rate constants using an in vitro-in vivo extrapolation (IVIVE) model. Bioconcentration factors (BCFs) calculated from kdep values measured at concentrations well below KM were closer to empirical BCFs than those calculated from kdep measured at higher test concentrations. Modeled BCFs were sensitive to in vitro binding assumptions employed in the IVIVE model, highlighting the need for further characterization of chemical binding effects on hepatic clearance. The results suggest that the tested UVFs are unlikely to accumulate to levels exceeding the European Union Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction regulation criterion for bioaccumulative substances (BCF > 2000 L kg-1 ). However, consideration of appropriate in vitro test concentrations and binding correction factors are important when IVIVE methods are used to refine modeled BCFs. Environ Toxicol Chem 2019;38:548-560. © 2018 SETAC.

Concentration effects of the UV filter oxybenzone in Cyperus alternifolius: assessment of tolerance by stress-related response.

Phytoremediation has been proposed to reduce the load of the sunscreen oxybenzone (OBZ) in the aquatic environment. Despite the proven removal efficiency of this compound, little is known about its influence, particularly oxidative stress on plants. In this study, a short-term incubation of macrophytic Cyperus alternifolius was performed to prove the plant's ability to withstand the stress. Detached shoots were immersed in medium spiked with different concentrations of OBZ (50, 100, and 500 µM) for 2, 4, and 7 days, respectively. Increased formation of O2- and H2O2 in Cyperus treated with OBZ was characterized by intense colorization following histochemical staining. Alterations of enzyme activities involved in the antioxidative defense system indicate an adaptive response of C. alternifolius to this xenobiotic stress. Quantification of lipid peroxidation reveals that no significant membrane damage occurred during incubation with OBZ. Overall, 50 µM OBZ (tenfold higher than the amount frequently detected in the environment) exhibited low toxic effects. Accordingly, this pilot study provides information on the potential use of Cyperus to remove emerging sunscreen contaminants from water bodies.

Prevalence of Contact Allergens in Personal Care Products for Babies and Children.

BACKGROUND: Personal care products marketed for babies and children are often regarded as "safe" or "gentle." However, little is known about the prevalence of contact allergens in these types of products. OBJECTIVE: This study assessed the prevalence of important sensitizers in personal care products marketed for babies and children. A secondary objective of this study was to determine whether a product's cost correlates with content of sensitizing ingredients. METHODS: The ingredient lists of 533 unique personal care products were analyzed for presence of fragrance, betaines, propylene glycol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde, lanolin, and neomycin. Price per ounce was determined for each product as well. CONCLUSIONS: Most personal care products for babies and children contain 1 or more sensitizers. Products containing more sensitizers tend to cost less than those without any sensitizing ingredients.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development.

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.