Improving photoprotection: 4-methylbenzylidene camphor microspheres.

We propose a new approach for photoprotection. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), one of the most widely used UV filters, was encapsulated in microspheres, with a view to overcoming problems (percutaneous absorption, photodegradation and lack of lasting effect) arising with organic sunscreens, and to achieve safe photoprotection. We focused on this filter in the light of the Cosmetics Europe opinion concerning its possible effects on the thyroid gland. Microspheres were prepared by emulsification-solvent evaporation, using different amounts of 4-MBC and characterized for morphology, encapsulation efficiency and particle size. The particles were then mixed in O/W emulsions. The in vitro sun protection factors, in vitro release and photostability were investigated and compared with emulsions containing the free sunscreen. The new microspheres offer good morphology and loading (up to 40%), and the same photoprotection as the free filter while at the same time protecting it from photodegradation. The systems also give a slower release from the emulsions.

Permeation and distribution of ferulic acid and its α-cyclodextrin complex from different formulations in hairless rat skin.

Ferulic acid (FA) is a natural product that occurs in seeds of many plants where it is generally located in the bran. This compound is a multifunctional ingredient endowed with antioxidative, radical scavenging, sunscreening and antibacterial actions. The aim of this study was to analyse the ferulic acid cutaneous permeation and distribution, through and into the skin layers, from different cosmetic vehicles, an O/W emulsion (pH 6.0) and two gel-type formulations at different pH levels (6.0 and 7.4), containing FA alone or an inclusion complex with α-cyclodextrin (CD-FA). In vitro permeation studies were performed in vertical diffusion cells using hairless rat excised skin. At appropriate intervals of time, the amount of permeated sunscreen/radical scavenger was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). At the end of experiments, treated skin samples were sectioned with a cryomicrotome and the FA content of the individual slices was analysed by HPLC. FA-containing formulations, O/W emulsion, gels A and B, originated FA fluxes of 8.48 ± 2.31, 8.38 ± 0.89 and 5.72 ± 0.50 µg/cm(2) h, respectively, thus suggesting the pH influence on FA percutaneous permeation. The use of the inclusion complex, CD-FA, determined in all cases a decrease of FA transdermal permeation while no influence of pH was observed. Gel-type formulations containing FA ensured higher sunscreen storage in the superficial layers if compared with O/W emulsion. When FA was included in α-cyclodextrin, FA amount retained into skin layers decreased markedly.

New Technologies in Rice Derivatives.

In this research the incapsulation of ferulic acid (FA) in advanced systems of protection with the aim of improving its stability and photostability was studied. Lipoparticles and polymeric microparticles as incapsulation systems were prepared and characterized. Lipoparticles were completely of natural origin, while microparticles were obtained using chitosan as natural polymer. In both systems FA stability was greatly increased and its organoleptic properties in the emulsions did not change.

Non-covalent inclusion of ferulic acid with alpha-cyclodextrin improves photo-stability and delivery: NMR and modeling studies.

Ferulic acid (FA) is a highly effective antioxidant and photo-protective agent, already approved in Japan as a sunscreen, but it is poorly suited for cosmetic application because of its low physicochemical stability. We prepared the inclusion complex of FA with alpha-cyclodextrin by co-precipitation from an aqueous solution, and used (1)H NMR and molecular dynamics to investigate the most probable structure of the inclusion complex. In rotating frame nuclear Overhouser effect spectroscopy (ROESY) experiments FA penetrated the alpha-CD hydrophobic cavity with the alpha,beta-unsaturated part of the molecule and some of its aromatic skeleton. In proton chemical shift measurements of FA and alpha-cyclodextrins we determined the stoichiometry of the association complex (1:1) by Job's method, and its stability constant (K(1:1) 1162+/-140 M(-1)) and described the molecular dynamics of the complex on the basis of theoretical studies. Encapsulation with alpha-cyclodextrin improves (i) the chemical stability of FA against UVB stress (10 MED [Minimal Erythemal Dose: 1 MED=25 mJ/cm(2) for skin phototype II: 30]), since no degradation products are formed after irradiation, and (ii) the bioavailability of FA on the skin, slowing its delivery (Strainer cell model).

Analytical characterization of a ferulic acid/gamma-cyclodextrin inclusion complex.

Ferulic acid (FA) is a well-known antioxidant of natural source with promising properties as photoprotective agent (approved in Japan as sunscreen) and its derivatives (alkyl ferulates) are under screening for the prevention of photoinduced skin tumours. In the present work we describe the preparation of a solid inclusion complex between ferulic acid and gamma-cyclodextrin (gamma-CD) and its characterization by different analytical techniques: differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), X-ray diffractometry (XRD), nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (1H NMR) and by supporting information of molecular modelling. All these approaches indicate that ferulic acid is able to form an association complex with gamma-CD but only 1H NMR and molecular modelling studies give an unequivocal evidence that the antioxidant molecule is embedded into the gamma-CD cavity to form an inclusion complex. In detail it is entrapped inside the hydrophobic core of gamma-CD with the lipophilic aromatic ring and the ethylenic moieties, leaving the more polar functional groups close to wider rim or outside the cavity.

Interaction of ferulic acid derivatives with human erythrocytes monitored by pulse field gradient NMR diffusion and NMR relaxation studies.

Ferulic acid (Fer), a natural anti-oxidant and chemo-protector, is able to suppress experimental carcinogenesis in the forestomach, lungs, skin, tongue and colon. Several Fer derivatives have been suggested as promising candidates for cancer prevention, being the biological activity related also to the capacity of partitioning between aqueous and lipid phases. In the present work, pulsed field gradient (PFG) NMR diffusion measurement and NMR relaxation rates have been adopted for investigating the interaction of three Fer derivatives (Fer-C11, Fer-C12 and Fer-C13) with human erythrocytes. Binding to the erythrocyte membrane has been shown for all derivatives, which displayed a similar interaction mode such that the aromatic moiety and the terminal part of the alkyl chain were the most affected. Quantitative analysis of the diffusion coefficients was used to show that Fer-C12 and Fer-C13 display higher affinity for the cell membrane when compared with Fer-C11. These findings agree with the higher anti-oxidant activity of the two derivatives.

In vitro induction of apoptosis vs. necrosis by widely used preservatives: 2-phenoxyethanol, a mixture of isothiazolinones, imidazolidinyl urea and 1,2-pentanediol.

Preservatives are added to many final products, such as detergents, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and vaccines. We conducted an in vitro investigation of the apoptosis- and necrosis-inducing potential of brief applications (10 min) of four common preservatives: ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, 2-phenoxyethanol (EGPE), imidazolidinyl urea (IMU), a mixture of 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (CMI/MI), and 1,2-pentanediol, a "preservative-non-preservative" best known as pentylene glycol. Using HL60 cells, we monitored the kinetics of cell toxicity with the MTT test and analysed extranuclear end points of apoptosis, i.e. phosphatidylserine exposure and nuclear fragmentation. Preservative treatment resulted in a dose-dependent decrease of cell viability. The mode of cell death was dose-dependent: necrosis occurred at high concentrations while apoptosis, shown by DNA laddering, DNA sub-diploid peak and caspase-3 activation, occurred at lower concentrations 0-24hr after exposure to a single dose: CMI/MI induced apoptosis at low concentrations (0.001-0.01%) and necrosis at high concentrations (0.5-0.1%); IMU and EGPE required higher concentrations to induce apoptosis (IMU 0.01-0.1% and EGPE 0.01-0.5%) or necrosis (IMU 0.5-1% and EGPE only at 1%). PG induced apoptosis only at 5%. Externalization of PS, a hallmark of apoptosis, occurred early in HL60 treated with low concentrations of CMI/MI and EGPE and was concomitant with the subdiploid peak in HL60 treated with PG. However, it did not occur in HL60 treated with IMU. In conclusion, at appropriate concentrations, each of the four preservatives modulates the apoptotic machinery by a caspase-dependent mechanism. Thus, apoptosis could be a good parameter to evaluate the cytoxicity of these chemical compounds.

Antioxidant activity of ferulic acid alkyl esters in a heterophasic system: a mechanistic insight.

The antioxidant activity of some esters of ferulic acid with the linear fatty alcohols C7, C8 (branched and linear), C9, C11, C12, C13, C15, C16, and C18 has been studied in homogeneous and heterogeneous phases. Whereas in homogeneous phase all of the alkyl ferulates possessed similar radical-scavenging abilities, in rat liver microsomes they showed striking differences, the more effective being C12 (7) (IC50 = 11.03 M), linear C8 (3) (IC50 = 12.40 microM), C13 (8) (IC50 = 18.60 microM), and C9 (5) (IC50 = 19.74 microM), followed by C7 (2), C15 (9), C11 (6), branched C8 (4), C16 (10), and C18 (11) (ferulic acid was the less active, IC50 = 243.84 microM). All of the molecules showed similar partition coefficients in an octanol-buffer system. Three-dimensional studies (NMR in solution, modeling in vacuo) indicate that this behavior might be due to a different anchorage of the molecules with the ester side chain to the microsomal phospholipid bilayer and to a consequent different orientation/positioning of the scavenging phenoxy group outside the membrane surface against the flux of oxy radicals.

Conformational analysis: a tool for the elucidation of the antioxidant properties of ferulic acid derivatives in membrane models.

With the aim to search and design more effective and safe antioxidant molecules to be used as functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations for UV protection, we evaluated the antioxidant/radical scavenging activities of ferulic acid and of some alkyl ferulates in both acellular and cellular systems. Ferulic acid esters, equipotent as antioxidant in homogeneous phase, showed when tested in membranous systems (rat liver microsomes, rat erythrocytes) marked differences in antioxidant potency. The n-C(12) derivative was the most potent, followed by n-C(8), n-C(16) and branched C(8), and then by ferulic acid. A conformational study carried out by NMR and modelling, indicates that the different antioxidant activity of ferulates in membrane models is due to the different spatial conformation and arrangement of the side chain of the molecule, which governs the access and binding to the phospholipid bilayer, the modality of orientation of the scavenging/quenching nucleus (phenol moiety), and hence the overall antioxidant potency of the derivative. These results emphasize the need of analytical studies (NMR and molecular modelling) addressed to the knowledge of the conformational parameters in combination with conventional antioxidant testings for understanding the antioxidant behaviour of a molecule in a biological membrane/system.

GC-MS profiling of the phytochemical constituents of the oleoresin from Copaifera langsdorffii Desf. and a preliminary in vivo evaluation of its antipsoriatic effect.

Copaiba is the oleoresin (OR) obtained from Copaifera (Fabaceae), a neotropical tree which grows in Amazon regions. The balsam, constituted by an essential oil and a resinous fraction is used as folkloristic remedy in the treatment of several inflammatory diseases and for its antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Aim of this work was (a) to carry out a characterization by GC-MS of the volatile and nonvolatile constituents of Copaifera langsdorffii Desf. oleoresin (OR); (b) to investigate the mechanism of its anti-inflammatory activity; (c) to evaluate its antipsoriatic effect after oral intake/topical application. The volatile fraction (yield: 22.51%, w/w) shows: α-bergamotene (48.38%), α-himachalene (11.17%), ß-selinene (5.00%) and ß-caryophyllene (5.47%). The OR residue (77.49%, w/w), after derivatization, showed as main constituents the following compounds: copalic, abietic, daniellic, lambertinic, labd-7-en-15-oic, pimaric, isopimaric acids and kaur16-en18-oic acid. Preincubation of LPS-stimulated human THP-1 monocytes with increasing concentrations of the OR purified fraction (OR-PF), containing diterpene acids, diterpenes and sesquiterpenes, reduced the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1ß, IL-6, TNFα) in a dose-range of 0.1-10 µM. In addition, in cell culture system of human THP-1 monocytes, 1 µM OR-PF counteracts LPS-driven NF-κB nuclear translocation. In a preliminary clinical trial three patients affected by chronic psoriasis, treated with oral intake or topical application of the OR, exhibited a significant improvement of the typical signs of this disease, i.e. erythema, skin thickness, and scaliness. In conclusion, the results of this work, beside an extensive analytical characterization of the OR chemical composition, provide strong evidences that its anti-inflammatory activity is related to the inhibition of the NF-κB nuclear translocation, and consequently of proinflammatory cytokines secretion.

New multifunctional surfactants from natural phenolic acids.

Several new multifunctional molecules derived from natural sources such as amino acids and hydroxycinnamic acids were synthesized. They exhibit various activities such as emulsifying, UV-protecting, and radical scavenging, thereby conforming to the latest requirements for cosmetic ingredients. The synthesis comprises only a few steps: (i) the amino acid, the acid groups of which are protected by esterification, is coupled with ferulic or caffeic acid; (ii) the p-hydroxyl group of the cinnamic derivative reacts with dodecyl bromide in the presence of potassium carbonate (the resulting compounds are highly lipophilic and tested as water/oil (W/O) emulsifiers); (iii) these molecules, by deprotonating the acid groups of the amino acids, with successive salification, are more hydrophilic, with stronger O/W emulsifying properties. The new multifunctional surfactants might prove useful for the treatment of multiple skin conditions, including loss of cellular antioxidants, damage from free radicals, damage from UV, and others.

The human olfactory receptor 17-40: requisites for fitting into the binding pocket.

To gain structural insight on the interactions between odorants and the human olfactory receptor, we did homology modelling of the receptor structure, followed by molecular docking simulation with ligands. Molecular dynamics simulation on the structures resulting from docking served to estimate the binding free energy of the various odorant families. A correlation with the odorous properties of the ligands is proposed. We also investigated which residues were involved in the binding of a set of properly synthesised ligands and which were required for fitting inside the binding pocket. Olfactive stimulation of the olfactory receptor with odorous molecules was also investigated, using calcium imaging or electrophysiological recordings.

Quinoline alkaloids in honey: further analytical (HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS, multidimensional diffusion-ordered NMR spectroscopy), theoretical and chemometric studies.

The wound-healing properties of honey are well established and it has been suggested that, among its pharmaco-active constituents, kynurenic acid (KA) exerts antinociceptive action on injured tissue by antagonizing NMDA at peripheral GABA receptors. The aim of this study was to investigate the quantitative profile of KA and of two recently identified, structurally related derivatives, 3-pyrrolidinyl-kynurenic acid (3-PKA) and its gamma-lactamic derivative (gamma-LACT-3-PKA), by examining their mass spectrometric behavior, in honeys from different botanical sources. We used a combination of HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS and NMR techniques (one-dimensional (1)H NMR and diffusion-ordered spectroscopy NMR). Chestnut honey constantly contained KA (2114.9-23 g/kg), 3-PKA (482.8-80 mg/kg) and gamma-LACT-3-PKA (845.8-32 mg/kg), confirming their reliability as markers of origin. A new metabolite, 4-quinolone (4-QUIN), was identified for the first time in one chestnut honey sample (743.4 mg/kg). Small amounts of KA were found in honeydew, sunflower, multifloral, almond and eucalyptus honeys, in the range of 23.1-143 mg/kg, suggesting contamination with chestnut honey. Total phenol content (TPC) was in the range from 194.9 to 1636.3 mg(GAE)/kg and total antiradical activity (TAA) from 61 to 940 mg/(GAE)/kg), depending on the botanical origin. Principal component analysis (PCA) was then done on these data. The three different clusters depicted: (i) antinociceptive activity from KA and/or its derivatives, typical of chestnut honey; (ii) antioxidant/radical scavenging activity by antioxidants responsible for the antiinflammatory action (dark honeys); (iii) peroxide-dependent antibacterial activity due to H(2)O(2) production by glucose oxidase in honey. The PCA findings provide useful indications for the dermatologist for the treatment of topical diseases, and the profiling of KA and its derivatives may shed light on new aspects of the kynurenine pathway involved in tryptophan metabolism.