Nanosystems with potential application as carriers for skin depigmenting actives.

Hyperpigmentation is a skin disorder characterized by excessive production of melanin in the skin and includes dyschromias such as post-inflammatory hyperchromias, lentigens, melasma and chloasma. Topical products containing depigmenting agents offer a less aggressive treatment option for hyperpigmentation compared to methods like chemical peels and laser sessions. However, some of these agents can cause side effects such as redness and skin irritation. Encapsulating these actives in nanosystems shows promise in mitigating these effects and improving product safety and efficacy. In addition, nanocarriers have the ability to penetrate the skin, potentially allowing for targeted delivery of actives to the affected areas. The most commonly investigated nanosystems are nanoemulsions, vesicular nanosystems and nanoparticles, in which different materials can be used to generate different compositions in order to improve the properties of these nanocarriers. Nanocarriers have already been widely explored, but it is necessary to understand the evolution of these technologies when applied to the treatment of skin hyperchromias. Therefore, this literature review aims to present the state of the art over the last 15 years on the use of nanosystems as a potential strategy for encapsulating depigmenting actives for potential application in cosmetic products for skin hyperchromia. By providing a comprehensive overview of the latest research findings and technological advances, this article can contribute to improving the care and quality of life of people affected by this skin condition.

Hyperpigmented Macules and Patches on the Face: Exogenous Ochronosis or Lichen Planus Pigmentosus?

We present a case of a patient with a 10-year history of blue-black macules and patches on the face and an associated history of skin-lightening cream usage. The skin lightening cream contained hydroquinone, which is often associated with exogenous ochronosis (EO). Interestingly, the biopsy did not show characteristic findings of ochronosis, confusing the final diagnosis, however discontinuing the skin-lightening creams halted the progression of the patient's skin lesions supporting a diagnosis of EO. EO presents as asymptomatic hyperpigmentation after using products containing hydroquinone. This condition is most common in Black populations, likely due to the increased use of skin care products and bleaching cream containing hydroquinone in these populations. Topical hydroquinone is FDA-approved to treat melasma, chloasma, freckles, senile lentigines, and hyperpigmentation and is available by prescription only in the US and Canada. However, with the increased use of skin-lightening creams in certain populations, it is important for dermatologists to accurately recognize the clinical features of exogenous ochronosis to differentiate it from similar dermatoses. An earlier diagnosis can prevent the progression to severe presentations with papules and nodules. We summarize the clinical presentations diagnostic features, and treatment pearls, concluding with a discussion of the differential diagnoses.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):567-568.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8248.

Efficacy and safety of novel topical pigment-correcting regimen with biweekly diamond tip microdermabrasion procedures on facial hyperpigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Facial hyperpigmentation can negatively affect an individual's emotional and psychosocial well-being. AIMS: Assess safety and tolerability of a combination of microdermabrasion (DG) procedures using a novel brightening pro-infusion serum (EC-DG) with a targeted at-home treatment regimen in subjects with mild to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dark spots. PATIENTS/METHODS: This 12-week, open-label study enrolled 18 subjects (Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV) who underwent 6 in-office DG procedures with EC-DG (one procedure administered biweekly), along with daily topical application of a brightening treatment serum and dark spot cream. End points included change from baseline across multiple skin quality attributes and the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability assessments. RESULTS: The combination treatment was well tolerated and resulted in significant (p ≤ 0.05) improvements from baseline in radiance, tactile roughness, and moisturization/hydration immediately after the first treatment, in MASI score at day 3, and in overall hyperpigmentation at week 4. Most (94.1%) subjects were satisfied with treatment. CONCLUSIONS: DG procedures using EC-DG combined with a targeted at-home skincare regimen are effective and tolerable for treating facial hyperpigmentation across a broad range of skin types.

Skin lightening properties of zerumbone cream: A placebo-controlled study.

OBJECTIVE: Despite the demonstrated anti-melanogenic and UV protective effects of Zerumbone (ZER) in vitro, there is a lack of clinical trials that have been done to assess these properties. The primary objective of this study was to assess the effectiveness of ZER in lightening the skin tone of human participants with a single-blind approach. METHODS: Twenty-six participants were randomly assigned to two groups to investigate the application location (left or right volar forearm) for the placebo and ZER creams. Both creams were topically administered to the volar forearms twice daily over a duration of 4 weeks. Initial skin irritation was assessed before and 30 min after applying creams. The melanin and erythema levels were quantified with Mexameter MX 18. RESULTS: Twenty participants were included in the analysis. The cream formulation had excellent physical properties and was well-received by the participants. The initial skin irritation study results indicated that neither of the creams elicited an allergic reaction. The administration of ZER cream resulted in a statistically significant reduction in melanin levels (p < 0.05) after 1 week compared to the initial baseline. Furthermore, after 2 weeks of application, ZER cream demonstrated significant differences in melanin levels compared to placebo (p < 0.05). No adverse effects were observed in the group using ZER cream. CONCLUSION: ZER demonstrated significant potential as a skin-lightening agent.

The effect of emulgel preparation on the stability of Kojic acid in the topical anti-hyperpigmentation products.

BACKGROUND: The emulgel, a novel drug delivery system, merges emulsion and gel, offering advantages like enhanced stability, precise control over drug release kinetics, and increased drug absorption compared to emulsions alone. Kojic acid (KA) demonstrates potent inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, a crucial player in the melanin synthesis pathway. AIMS: The main objective of this experimental study is to formulate KA within an emulgel framework and assess its stability under various environmental conditions. METHODS: One percent of KA emulgel and 1% simple gel, serving as the control product, were supplemented with varying concentrations of sodium metabisulfite (SMBS) for its antioxidant properties. The formulations were segregated into four groups and subjected to diverse maintenance and stress conditions over a three-month period. Monthly evaluations of physicochemical alterations were conducted, initially employing digital photography, followed by the extraction of KA and subsequent quantification of its concentration through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). RESULTS: The best formulations for retaining KA among the prepared ones were the 0.25% SMBS KA emulgel and the 0.1% SMBS KA simple gel, capable of retaining 86% and 76% of the initial KA content under stress conditions, respectively (p < 0.0001). CONCLUSIONS: Regarding to this study, ideal storage condition for KA emulgel and simple gel is in the refrigerator temperatures. Moreover, optimal SMBS concentrations for stability enhancement are 0.25% for emulgel and 0.1% for the simple gel. A significant statistical difference was observed between refrigerated emulgel and simple gel in the retention of KA in the presence of optimum concentration of antioxidants (p < 0.0001).

The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet-induced skin melanization model.

BACKGROUND: In Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance-related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid. METHODS: Primary skin irritation and skin-whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas. RESULTS: TEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment. CONCLUSIONS: TEST could be integrated into spot-fading and skin-whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.

Efficacy and tolerability of a depigmenting gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, phytic acid, and a mixture of hydroxy acids that targets the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis.

BACKGROUND: The diverse causes of hyperpigmentation and complex nature of melanogenesis make it a challenge to manage. Current approaches either fail to deliver effective pigmentation control or have undesirable safety profiles that preclude their long-term use. AIMS: To evaluate the capacity of a cosmetic gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, phytic acid, and a mixture of hydroxy acids that was designed to target the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis to attenuate melanin production in vitro and reduce hyperpigmentation clinically. METHODS: Capacity to reduce melanin production in vitro was determined in melanocyte-containing reconstructed human epidermis (RHEm). Clinical efficacy and skin tolerability following twice daily application were assessed in 35 subjects with slight to moderate facial hyperpigmentation by instrumental (VISIA®-CR, Mexameter®) and clinical (mMASI, clinical score, IGA for hyperpigmentation) evaluation on D14, D28, D56, and D84. Maintenance of pigmentation control was followed up 1 month after cessation of treatment on D112. RESULTS: In RHEm in vitro, melanin production was reduced by 50.0% from baseline (D0) on D14 (p < 0.001) and by 67.0% on D21 (p < 0.001). Clinical reductions from baseline in brown spots count (-9.0%; p < 0.05), brown spots area (-16.7%; p < 0.001), and the melanin index (-11.4%; p < 0.001) were observed within 14 days of use. Statistically significant improvements in all clinical parameters were achieved by D28. By the end of treatment on D84, the number and surface area of brown spots were reduced by 28.4% and 40.3% compared to D0, respectively (p < 0.001, both), the melanin index was reduced by 31.1% (p < 0.001), mMASI was reduced by 63.0% (p < 0.001), and skin luminosity was increased by 79.0% (p < 0.001). IGA was reduced from 2.3 on D0 to 1.3 on D84 (p < 0.001). Improvements to all these parameters were maintained until D112, 1 month after termination of treatment. The product also demonstrated very good skin tolerability. CONCLUSION: A gel serum comprising tranexamic acid, niacinamide, 4-butylresorcinol, and hydroxy acids, designed to target the biological processes regulating skin melanogenesis, demonstrates rapid, robust, and sustained pigmentation control in this cohort.