Added-Value Compounds in Cork By-Products: Methods for Extraction, Identification, and Quantification of Compounds with Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Interest.

The growing threat of climatic crisis and fossil fuel extinction has caused a boom in sustainability trends. Consumer demand for so-called eco-friendly products has been steadily increasing, built upon the foundation of environmental protection and safeguarding for future generations. A natural product that has been used for centuries is cork, resulting from the outer bark of Quercus suber L. Currently, its major application is the production of cork stoppers for the wine industry, a process that, although considered sustainable, generates by-products in the form of cork powder, cork granulates, or waste such as black condensate, among others. These residues possess constituents of interest for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, as they exhibit relevant bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant. This interesting potential brings forth the need to develop methods for their extraction, isolation, identification, and quantification. The aim of this work is to describe the potential of cork by-products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry and to assemble the available extraction, isolation, and analytical methods applied to cork by-products, as well the biological assays. To our knowledge, this compilation has never been done, and it opens new avenues for the development of new applications for cork by-products.

A Hydrophilic Sulfated Resveratrol Derivative for Topical Application: Sensitization and Anti-Allergic Potential.

Resveratrol (RSV), a naturally occurring metabolite, is widely used in skincare products, but its hydrophobicity impairs its own incorporation into cosmetic formulations. RSV-GS is a synthetic hydrophilic sulfated glycosylated derivative inspired by marine natural products that present a lower cytotoxicity than RSV while exhibiting similar levels of bioactivity. Herein, we predict the skin sensitization potential of this new compound using an in vitro approach based on the OECD 442E guideline. Furthermore, the anti-allergic potential of RSV-GS was also disclosed. The monocyte THP-1 cell line was stimulated with RSV and RSV-GS in the presence or absence of the extreme skin allergen 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrobenzene (DNFB). The results demonstrated that RSV-GS alone (500 µM) evoked a relative fluorescence index (RFI) lower than the thresholds established by the OECD guideline for CD54 (200%) and CD86 (150%), indicating the absence of a skin sensitization potential. Interestingly, in the presence of the skin allergen DNFB, RSV-GS exhibited the ability to rescue the DNFB-induced maturation of THP-1 cells, with RFI values lower than those for RSV, suggesting the potential of RSV-GS to mitigate skin sensitization evoked by allergens and, consequently, allergic contact dermatitis. These results open new avenues for the use of RSV-GS as a safe and anti-allergic active cosmetic ingredient.

Quality of life in Female Users of Antiageing Cosmetic Products/Aesthetic Treatments.

BACKGROUND: Ageing is accompanied by physical changes, both at the physiological and appearance levels. The way people perceive these changes have important consequences on general health and quality of life (QoL). This study analysed the relationship between sociodemographic variables, psychological variables, use of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments, and QoL. METHODS: This cross-sectional study included a sample of 271 women, aged between 25 and 70 years, users of antiageing cosmetic products and/or aesthetic services. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory - Revised), self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), self-perceptions of ageing (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and QoL (SF-12v2). RESULTS: Being older and having a higher household income was associated with better QoL. The use of facial firming products, hair colouring products, and sunscreen was also associated with better QoL. Psychological morbidity and perfectionism contributed negatively to QoL, while household income contributed positively. Ageing perceptions moderated the relationship between self-esteem and QoL. CONCLUSION: According to the findings, intervention programs to reduce psychological morbidity, increase self-esteem, promote more adaptive patterns of perfectionism, and recognize the role of age perception are needed to improve women's QoL. The perceived influence of the usage of cosmetic products to prevent/minimize aging signs should be further explored.

CONTEXTE: Le vieillissement s'accompagne de changements physiques, tant au niveau physiologique qu'au niveau de l'apparence. La façon dont les gens perçoivent ces changements a des conséquences importantes sur la santé générale et la qualité de vie (QdV). Cette étude a analysé la relation entre les variables sociodémographiques, les variables psychologiques, l'utilisation de produits cosmétiques anti-âge/soins esthétiques et la QdV. MÉTHODES: Cette étude transversale a inclus un échantillon de 271 femmes, âgées de 25 à 70 ans, utilisatrices de produits cosmétiques anti-âge et/ou de soins esthétiques. Les participants ont été évalués sur la morbidité psychologique (Hospit Anxiety and Depression Scale), les schémas d'apparence (Appearance Schemas Inventory - Revised), l'estime de soi (Roenberg Self-Esteem Scale), le perfectionnisme (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), l'auto-perception du vieillissement (Brief Questionnaire sur les perceptions du vieillissement) et QdV (SF-12v2). RÉSULTATS: Être plus âgé et avoir un revenu du ménage plus élevé était associé à une meilleure qualité de vie. L'utilisation de produits raffermissants pour le visage, de produits de coloration capillaire et de soins solaires était également associée à une meilleure qualité de vie. La morbidité psychologique et le perfectionnisme ont contribué négativement à la qualité de vie, tandis que le revenu du ménage a contribué positivement. Les perceptions du vieillissement ont modéré la relation entre l'estime de soi et la qualité de vie. CONCLUSION: Selon les résultats, des programmes d'intervention visant à réduire la morbidité psychologique, à augmenter l'estime de soi, à promouvoir des schémas de perfectionnisme plus adaptatifs et à reconnaître le rôle de la perception de l'âge sont nécessaires pour améliorer la qualité de vie des femmes. L'influence de l'utilisation de produits cosmétiques pour prévenir/minimiser les signes du vieillissement doit être davantage perçue.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight.

OBJECTIVE: Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. METHODS: A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. RESULTS: Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. CONCLUSION: This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

OBJECTIF: La peau sensible se caractérise par des perceptions sensorielles autorapportées en réponse à des stimuli qui ne devraient pas provoquer de sensations désagréables. Les produits cosmétiques pour peaux sensibles sont conçus pour minimiser ces symptômes. Cette étude visait à dévoiler les principes actifs les plus utilisés pour les peaux sensibles dans les produits de soins du visage de la pharmacie et de la chaîne de parapharmacie. MÉTHODES: Un ensemble de produits de la chaîne pharmacie et parapharmacie, dont l'étiquette comportait les expressions « peau sensible ¼, « peau réactive ¼ ou « peau intolérante ¼ ont été analysés. Les principes actifs ont été identifiés à partir des compositions du produit et classés par ordre décroissant d'occurrence. Les preuves scientifiques concernant le mécanisme d'action et l'efficacité de chaque ingrédient ont également été compilées. RÉSULTATS: Quatre-vingt-huit produits provenant de 19 marques multinationales ont été inclus. Le niacinamide est en tête, suivi de l'Avena sativa, de l'allantoïne, de l'acide glycyrrhétinique et de ses dérivés et de Laminaria ochroleuca. Des ingrédients pouvant réduire l'inflammation cutanée et agir sur la barrière cutanée ont été utilisés dans plus de la moitié des produits analysés. Les études cliniques concernant les principes actifs utilisés dans ces produits restent rares et manquent de qualité méthodologique. Parmi les principaux ingrédients, le niacinamide, le panthénol et l'ester de dipeptide acétyl-1 ont été les seuls étudiés sur des volontaires ayant une peau sensible, tandis que l'ester de dipeptide acétyl-1 et le tripeptide palmitoyl-8 ont été conçus pour agir sur les cibles moléculaires qui interviennent dans cette affection. CONCLUSION: Cette étude révèle les principes actifs les plus utilisés dans les produits cosmétiques pour les peaux sensibles, ainsi que les preuves scientifiques étayant leur efficacité et les mécanismes d'action. Cet éclairage est important pour les dermatologues et autres professionnels de la santé pour apporter des conseils personnalisés basés sur la symptomatologie des personnes ayant la peau sensible, et pour la formulation de produits cosmétiques et la conception de nouveaux principes actifs.

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview.

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoreactivity and Phototoxicity of Natural Polyphenol Antioxidants.

Polyphenols are a large family of natural compounds widely used in cosmetic products due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory beneficial properties and their ability to prevent UV radiation-induced oxidative stress. Since these compounds present chromophores and are applied directly to the skin, they can react with sunlight and exert phototoxic effects. The available scientific information on the phototoxic potential of these natural compounds is scarce, and thus the aim of this study was to evaluate the photoreactivity and phototoxicity of five phenolic antioxidants with documented use in cosmetic products. A standard ROS assay was validated and applied to screen the photoreactivity of the natural phenolic antioxidants caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC), and rutin. The phototoxicity potential was determined by using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), based on the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake phototoxicity test. Although all studied phenolic antioxidants absorbed UV/Vis radiation in the range of 290 to 700 nm, only DOPAC was able to generate singlet oxygen. The generation of reactive oxygen species is an early-stage chemical reaction as part of the phototoxicity mechanism. Yet, none of the studied compounds decreased the viability of keratinocytes after irradiation, leading to the conclusion that they do not have phototoxic potential. The data obtained with this work suggests that these compounds are safe when incorporated in cosmetic products.

Management of skin adverse reactions in oncology.

Chemo and targeted anticancer therapies present significant skin adverse reactions, which impair the patients' quality of life. Cutaneous toxicities lead to poor treatment adherence, drug cessation, and psychosocial distress. This review aims to summarize the current knowledge concerning the prevention and management of skin toxicity arising from these therapies. A systematic literature search on online databases was conducted. The categorization of the main preventive and treatment measures was performed according to the level of evidence. Management of skin adverse reactions of oncology treatments is very heterogeneous, which can be explained by the lack of sound evidence-based treatments. The most studied adverse effects are papulopustular eruption, xerosis, and hand-foot syndrome. Prevention of xerosis stands out as the strategy most supported by level II studies. With respect to treatment, the use of antibiotics in papulopustular eruption resulting from anti-epidermal growth factor receptor agents is the most evidence-based approach. In general, the number of studies published in the literature classified with a level II of evidence (52%) is similar to the ones classified as level IV (33%), making clear the need of more randomized controlled trials regarding the effectiveness of preventive and treatment measures of skin adverse reactions of chemo and targeted anticancer therapies.

Efficacy, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of New Polyphenolic Xanthones Towards Identification of Bioactive Compounds to Fight Skin Photoaging.

Antioxidants have long been used in the cosmetic industry to prevent skin photoaging, which is mediated by oxidative stress, making the search for new antioxidant compounds highly desirable in this field. Naturally occurring xanthones are polyphenolic compounds that can be found in microorganisms, fungi, lichens, and some higher plants. This class of polyphenols has a privileged scaffold that grants them several biological activities. We have previously identified simple oxygenated xanthones as promising antioxidants and disclosed as hit, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1). Herein, we synthesized and studied the potential of xanthones with different polyoxygenated patterns as skin antiphotoaging ingredients. In the DPPH antioxidant assay, two newly synthesized derivatives showed IC50 values in the same range as ascorbic acid. The synthesized xanthones were discovered to be excellent tyrosinase inhibitors and weak to moderate collagenase and elastase inhibitors but no activity was revealed against hyaluronidase. Their metal-chelating effect (FeCl3 and CuCl2) as well as their stability at different pH values were characterized to understand their potential to be used as future cosmetic active agents. Among the synthesized polyoxygenated xanthones, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was reinforced as the most promising, exhibiting a dual ability to protect the skin against UV damage by combining antioxidant/metal-chelating properties with UV-filter capacity and revealed to be more stable in the pH range that is close to the pH of the skin. Lastly, the phototoxicity of 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was evaluated in a human keratinocyte cell line and no phototoxicity was observed in the concentration range tested.

Characterization of an antioxidant surfactant-free topical formulation containing Castanea sativa leaf extract.

CONTEXT: Inclusion of antioxidants in topical formulations can contribute to minimize oxidative stress in the skin, which has been associated with photoaging, several dermatosis and cancer. OBJECTIVE: A Castanea sativa leaf extract with established antioxidant activity was incorporated into a semisolid surfactant-free formulation. The objective of this study was to perform a comprehensive characterization of this formulation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Physical, microbiological and functional stability were evaluated during 6 months storage at 20 °C and 40 °C. Microstructure elucidation (cryo-SEM), in vitro release and in vivo moisturizing effect (Corneometer® CM 825) were also assessed. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Minor changes were observed in the textural and rheological properties of the formulation when stored at 20 °C for 6 months and the antioxidant activity of the plant extract remained constant throughout the storage period. Microbiological quality was confirmed at the end of the study. Under accelerated conditions, higher modifications of the evaluated parameters were observed. Cryo-SEM analysis revealed the presence of oil droplets dispersed into a gelified external phase. The release rate of the antioxidant compounds (610 ± 70 µgh(-0.5)) followed Higuchi model. A significant in vivo moisturizing effect was demonstrated, that lasted at least 4 h after product's application. CONCLUSION: The physical, functional and microbiological stability of the antioxidant formulation was established. Specific storage conditions should be recommended considering the influence of temperature on the stability. A skin hydration effect and good skin tolerance were also found which suggests that this preparation can be useful in the prevention or treatment of oxidative stress-mediated dysfunctions.

Optimization of a surfactant-free antioxidant formulation using response surface methodology.

Topical application of natural antioxidants has proven to be effective in protecting the skin against ultraviolet radiation-mediated oxidative damage. In previous studies, a Castanea sativa leaf ethanol:water (7:3) extract exhibited scavenging activity against different reactive oxygen species that are thought to contribute to oxidative damage in the skin. Its stability was shown to be enhanced in the presence of glycerine, and therefore a glycerine-based formulation with Carbopol 940 and liquid paraffin (LP) was developed as base. In this work, the influence of the glycerine and LP contents on the textural properties of the topical base and on the antioxidant activity of the formulation with C. sativa extract was evaluated using response surface methodology after 30 d storage at 20 °C and 40 °C. The textural analysis was performed in a texturometer, by carrying out a spreadability test. Paretto charts showed that both glycerine and LP contents significantly influenced the textural properties of the formulations (p < 0.05). LP presented the major influence. DPPH scavenging activity was not related to any of the studied ingredients. These conclusions were valid both for 20 °C and 40 °C storage. This optimization study provided valuable information to support the development of a semisolid base for C. sativa extract leading to the conclusion that the selection of these ingredients contents can be guided exclusively by the desirable textural properties.

Influence of lipid microparticle encapsulation on in vitro efficacy, photostability and water resistance of the sunscreen agents, octyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

CONTEXT: Essential requirements for the efficacy of sunscreen agents are optimal UV absorption, high photostability and resistance against water removal. OBJECTIVE: Aim of this study was to investigate the effect of encapsulation in lipid microparticles (LMs) on the overall performance of the two most commonly used sunscreen agents, octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM). METHODS: LMs loaded with OMC and BMDBM were prepared by melt emulsification and characterized by optical microscopy, UV filter content and release studies. The LMs incorporating OMC and BMDBM or the nonencapsulated sunscreen agents were introduced into a model cream (oil-in-water emulsion). RESULTS: No significant differences were observed between the sun protection factor (SPF) of the formulations containing the free (SPF, 9.4 ± 1.9) or microencapsulated (SPF, 9.6 ± 1.3) UV filters. Irradiation of the creams with a solar simulator demonstrated that the photodecomposition of OMC and BMDBM was significantly decreased by encapsulation in LMs from 55.7 ± 5.3% to 46.1 ± 5.1% and 36.3 ± 3.9% to 20.1 ± 4.7%, respectively. However, in vitro water-resistance studies showed that entrapment in the LMs significantly enhanced the sunscreen agent removal caused by watering (the losses for OMC and BMDBM were 45.1 ± 6.3% and 49.2 ± 8.4%, respectively), as compared to the formulation with the nonencapsulated sunscreen agents (the losses for OMC and BMDBM were 26.7 ± 6.1% and 28.0 ± 6.7%, respectively). CONCLUSION: Incorporation in LMs can have controversial effects on UV filter efficacy. In particular, the water-resistance properties of sun-care formulations containing sunscreens loaded in LMs should be verified to assure that the photoprotective activity is maintained during usage.

Placental corticotrophin-releasing hormone trajectories in pregnancy: Associations with postpartum depressive symptoms.

OBJECTIVE: Depressive symptoms following birth are common and can have adverse effects for mothers, children, and families. Changes in hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis regulation during pregnancy may be implicated in the development of postpartum depressive symptoms, particularly changes in placental corticotropinreleasing hormone (pCRH). However, few studies have tested how dynamic pCRH changes over pregnancy relate to postpartum depressive symptoms. This preregistered investigation tests associations of both pCRH levels and changes from early to late pregnancy with postpartum depressive symptoms. METHODS: The sample consists of 173 women studied in early, mid, and late pregnancy who later reported on depressive symptoms with the Edinburgh Postpartum Depression Scale during interviews at 1, 6 and 12 months postpartum. Blood samples were collected at each prenatal timepoint and assayed for pCRH using radioimmunoassay. Latent growth curve analysis was employed to identify distinct trajectories of pCRH during pregnancy. RESULTS: We identified three prenatal pCRH trajectories labeled as typical, flat, and accelerated. Each trajectory showed exponential increases in pCRH levels over the course of gestation but differed in overall levels and rates of change. pCRH levels were not associated with postpartum depressive symptoms. However, women with accelerated pCRH trajectories reported marginally higher depressive symptoms one month postpartum. Primary analysis models adjusted for marital status, income, prepregnancy BMI, parity, prenatal depressive symptoms, and gestational age. CONCLUSIONS: These findings add to our understanding of dynamic changes to maternal HPA axis regulation during pregnancy and contribute to growing evidence on how pCRH changes relate to the development of postpartum depressive symptoms.

Application of NIR Spectroscopy for the Valorisation of Cork By-Products: A Feasibility Study over the Screening and Discrimination of Chemical Compounds of Interest.

Quercus suber is considered a sustainable tree mainly due to its outer layer (cork) capacity to regenerate after each harvesting cycle. Cork bark is explored for several application; however, its industrial transformation generates a significant amount of waste. Recently, cork by-products have been studied as a supplier of bioactive ingredients. This work aimed to explore whether near infrared spectroscopy (NIRS), a non-destructive analysis, can be employed as a screening device for selecting cork by-products with higher potential for bioactives extraction. A total of 29 samples of cork extracts were analysed regarding their qualitative composition. Partial least squares (PLS) models were developed for quantification purposes, and R2P and RER values of 0.65 and above 4, respectively, were obtained. Discrimination models, performed through PLS-DA, yielded around 80% correct predictions, revealing that four out of five of samples were correctly discriminated, thus revealing that NIR can be successfully applied for screening purposes.

Patient-Centric Design of Topical Dermatological Medicines.

Topical treatments are essential approaches to skin diseases but are associated with poor adherence. Topical vehicles have the primary purpose of ensuring drug effectiveness (by modulating drug stability and delivery, as well as skin properties) but have a marked impact on treatment outcomes as they influence patient satisfaction and, consequently, adherence to topical treatments. There is also a wide variety of vehicles available for topical formulations, which can complicate the decisions of clinicians regarding the most appropriate treatments for specific skin disorders. One of the possible strategies to improve topical-treatment adherence is the implementation of patient-centric drug-product design. In this process, the patient's needs (e.g., those related to motor impairment), the needs associated with the disease (according to the skin lesions' characteristics), and the patient's preferences are taken into consideration and translated into a target product profile (TPP). Herein, an overview of topical vehicles and their properties is presented, along with a discussion of the patient-centric design of topical dermatological medicines and the proposal of TPPs for some of the most common skin diseases.

Chronic pruritus: From pathophysiology to drug design.

Pruritus, the most common symptom in dermatology, is an innate response capable of protecting skin against irritants. Nonetheless, when it lasts more than six weeks it is assumed to be a chronic pathology having a negative impact on people's lives. Chronic pruritus (CP) can occur in common and rare skin diseases, having a high prevalence in global population. The existing therapies are unable to counteract CP or are associated with adverse effects, so the development of effective treatments is a pressing issue. The pathophysiological mechanisms underlying CP are not yet completely dissected but, based on current knowledge, involve a wide range of receptors, namely neurokinin 1 receptor (NK1R), Janus kinase (JAK), and transient receptor potential (TRP) ion channels, especially transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) and transient receptor potential ankyrin 1 (TRPA1). This review will address the relevance of these molecular targets for the treatment of CP and molecules capable of modulating these receptors that have already been studied clinically or have the potential to possibly alleviate this pathology. According to scientific and clinical literature, there is an increase in the expression of these molecular targets in the lesioned skin of patients experiencing CP when compared with non-lesioned skin, highlighting their importance for the development of potential efficacious drugs through the design of antagonists/inhibitors.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies.

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

Comparative Studies on the Photoreactivity, Efficacy, and Safety of Depigmenting Agents.

Depigmenting products are increasingly used to counteract skin hyperpigmentation and related psychosocial issues. This study aimed to compare different depigmenting agents-4-butylresorcinol; bakuchiol; tranexamic acid; ascorbyl glucoside; α-arbutin; and ascorbic acid-for photoreactivity; tyrosinase inhibition; and safety. Photoreactivity was assessed using the Reactive Oxygen Species assay. In vitro tyrosinase inhibition was compared, and cell viability was assessed in B-16V melanocytes to evaluate safety. Results showed 4-butylresorcinol, ascorbyl glucoside, and α-arbutin are non-photoreactive, while for ascorbic acid and bakuchiol it was not possible to reach conclusive results due to the lack of specificity of the ROS assay. 4-Butylresorcinol, acting as a competitive inhibitor, displayed potent tyrosinase inhibition, followed by ascorbic acid and bakuchiol. Both 4-butylresorcinol and bakuchiol reduced cell viability in a concentration-dependent manner. The insights obtained in this work support the development of depigmenting products by providing useful scientific guidance on the photostability, tyrosinase inhibitory efficacy, and skin safety of depigmenting agents.

Dissolvable Carboxymethylcellulose Microneedles for Noninvasive and Rapid Administration of Diclofenac Sodium.

The aim of this study is to prepare dissolvable biopolymeric microneedle (MN) patches composed solely of sodium carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), a water-soluble cellulose derivative with good film-forming ability, by micromolding technology for the transdermal delivery of diclofenac sodium salt (DCF). The MNs with ≈456 µm in height displayed adequate morphology, thermal stability up to 200 °C, and the required mechanical strength for skin insertion (>0.15 N needle-1 ). Experiments in ex vivo abdominal human skin demonstrate the insertion capability of the CMC_DCF MNs up to 401 µm in depth. The dissolution of the patches in saline buffer results in a maximum cumulative release of 98% of diclofenac after 40 min, and insertion in a skin simulant reveals that all MNs completely dissolve within 10 min. Moreover, the MN patches are noncytotoxic toward human keratinocytes. These results suggest that the MN patches produced with CMC are promising biopolymeric systems for the rapid administration of DCF in a minimally invasive manner.

The Role of Pharmaceutical Compounding in Promoting Medication Adherence.

Pharmaceutical compounding is an important component of pharmacy practice despite its low prevalence. Several therapeutic needs can be met by a compounded medicine such as dosing adjusted for pediatric patients, special drug combinations, medicines for patients allergic to a given excipient, and medicines for orphan drugs not provided by the pharmaceutical industry. Examples of such applications are provided in this review. Adherence to medication is a critical public health issue as nonadherence to pharmacotherapy has been associated with adverse outcomes and higher costs of patient care. Adherence to therapy represents a key factor in the reduction in morbidity and mortality and optimization of the use of financial resources. The role of pharmaceutical compounding in promoting medication adherence is underexploited. The customization might represent a positive reinforcement of the initiation of the treatment, while implementation and persistence might also be favored in a pharmacy setting. However, studies addressing the influence of compounding in adherence promotion are lacking in the literature. The results of such studies could support health policies including proper regulatory framework, pharmacist training, and information to health care practitioners.