Stratum corneum ceramide profiles in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo: characterization of the α-hydroxy double esterified ceramides.

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSn). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS2/MS3 analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation.

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques.

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.

Assessment of the skin barrier function in the reconstructed human epidermis using a multimodal approach at molecular, tissue and functional levels.

Reconstructed human epidermis models are used as epidermis alternatives in skin research studies. It is necessary to provide molecular and functional characterization in order to assess these models. Our aim is to establish a link between the barrier function and the structure and composition of the stratum corneum using several complementary techniques. The following three studies were performed on reconstructed human epidermis during the keratinocyte differentiation process: (i) caffeine percutaneous penetration kinetics, (ii) epidermis thickness measurement, stratum corneum formation and lipid organization by Raman microspectroscopy and (iii) lipid composition evolution by liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry. The results demonstrated that the caffeine penetration decreased along the differentiation process. Raman in-depth images demonstrated an increase in stratum corneum and RHE thickness accompanied by the evolution of lipid organization. Lipid analysis showed an increase of the ceramide amount and an inverse relationship between ceramide and its precursor levels during the differentiation process. Different behaviors between several ceramide subclasses are highlighted and they relied on the corresponding differentiation stages. The generation of the most important ceramides for the barrier function is closely followed. A period shift between lipid generation and their organization was found. Our analytical data allowed identifying the following 3 groups of maturation days: before day 15, between days 15 and 19, and after day 19. The chemical and physiological states of the barrier function for each group are described thanks to a multimodal approach.

Comprehensive characterization and simultaneous analysis of overall lipids in reconstructed human epidermis using NPLC/HR-MSn: 1-O-E (EO) Cer, a new ceramide subclass.

Stratum corneum lipids are responsible for the skin's barrier function. They are the final product of epidermis lipid biosynthesis. During this process, lipids evolve from simple to complex structures in three main levels respectively (stratum basal level, stratum granulosum level, and stratum corneum level). Our aim was to simultaneously analyze and characterize the structure of total epidermis lipids. A powerful analytical method (normal-phase liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (NPLC/HR-MSn)) was developed in order to separate, in a single run, lipid classes with a wide polarity range. Chromatographic conditions were particularly designed to analyze lipids of intermediate polarity such as ceramides. Rich information was obtained about the molecular structure of keratinocyte differentiation biomarkers such as ceramides, glucosylceramides, and sphingomyelins and the microstructures of reconstructed human epidermis lipids using HR-MSn. A new subclass of ceramides, 1-O-Acyl Omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer] has been highlighted. This class is double esterified on the 1-O-position of sphingoid base with long to very long chain acyl residues (1-O-E) and on the position of ω-hydroxyl group of fatty acid with the linolenic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. In addition, we detected a new epidermis sphingomyelins. Our lipidomic approach offers a direct access to epidermis biomarkers.

Labeling of Hyaluronic Acids with a Rhenium-tricarbonyl Tag and Percutaneous Penetration Studied by Multimodal Imaging.

Hyaluronic acids were labeled with a rhenium-tricarbonyl used as single core multimodal probe for imaging and their penetration into human skin biopsies was studied using IR microscopy and fluorescence imaging (labeled SCoMPI). The penetration was shown to be dependent on the molecular weight of the molecule and limited to the upper layer of the skin.

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures.

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage.

Clustering-based preprocessing method for lipidomic data analysis: application for the evolution of newborn skin surface lipids from birth until 6 months.

After life in utero and birth, the skin is submitted to an important process of adaptation to a relatively dry gaseous environment. Skin surface lipids (SSLs) contribute actively to the protection of the skin barrier. Within this context, our objective was to study the evolution of each lipid compound during the postnatal period. SSLs were collected from six newborns a few days after birth until the age of 6 months. Seventy samples were analyzed using high-temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HT-GC/MS). The use of separative techniques coupled to mass spectrometry for the analysis of samples containing complex mixtures of lipids generates a large volume of data which renders the results interpretation very difficult. In this study, we propose a new approach to handle the raw data, a clustering-based preprocessing method (CB-PPM), in order to achieve (1) volume reduction of data provided by each chromatogram without loss of information, (2) alignment of time retention shift between different runs, (3) clustering of mass spectra of the same molecule in one qualitative group, (4) and integration of all data into a single matrix to be explored by chemometric tools. This approach allowed us to gather data variations in 256 qualitative groups and therefore enabled us to highlight the variation of compounds including those of low intensity. Moreover, the representation of all data gathered in one matrix rendered reading of the results rapid and efficient. Thus, using this approach, we have demonstrated an increase of cholesterol esterification with epidermal fatty acids (C20 to C25) with age. This epidermis participation in SSL production at a molecular level in the first period of life has not been previously shown. These data can be very interesting for the development and improvement of products destined for the protection of infant skin. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

In vivo Raman Microspectroscopy: Intra- and Intersubject Variability of Stratum Corneum Spectral Markers.

BACKGROUND: In vivo Raman spectroscopy is a powerful tool for real-time analysis and in situ evaluation of tissues such as the skin. The efficiency of this technique has been widely demonstrated as a label-free method for in vivo evaluation of the skin. The aim of this study is to gather information about inter- and intra-individual variations in the spectral descriptors of water content and structure, organization of the lipid barrier and structure of proteins in the stratum corneum (SC). METHODS: In vivo SC measurements were performed on 17 female volunteers aged 20-30 years (phototypes I and II). For intra-individual variability, spectral collection was performed on 5 successive days per volunteer. Shapiro-Wilk and Cochran tests were applied to check the normality and the homoscedasticity of variances. ANOVA was then applied to evaluate intra- and intergroup variability. RESULTS: ANOVA was performed on the spectral descriptors of water content and structure, organization of the lipid barrier and secondary structure of proteins in the SC. No significant intra- and interday variability was observed for all volunteers. Despite the low value of the total relative standard deviation, a highly significant variation was observed between volunteers. CONCLUSION: Interindividual variability for Raman measurements is significant for a set of volunteers with normal nondiseased SC and close phototypes. This variability should be taken into consideration as a threshold for significant variance when working in vivo.

Comparison of structure and organization of cutaneous lipids in a reconstructed skin model and human skin: spectroscopic imaging and chromatographic profiling.

The use of animals for scientific research is increasingly restricted by legislation, increasing the demand for human skin models. These constructs present comparable bulk lipid content to human skin. However, their permeability is significantly higher, limiting their applicability as models of barrier function, although the molecular origins of this reduced barrier function remain unclear. This study analyses the stratum corneum (SC) of one such commercially available reconstructed skin model (RSM) compared with human SC by spectroscopic imaging and chromatographic profiling. Total lipid composition was compared by chromatographic analysis (HPLC). Raman spectroscopy was used to evaluate the conformational order, lateral packing and distribution of lipids in the surface and skin/RSM sections. Although HPLC indicates that all SC lipid classes are present, significant differences are observed in ceramide profiles. Raman imaging demonstrated that the RSM lipids are distributed in a non-continuous matrix, providing a better understanding of the limited barrier function.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part II, protective action of solar filters.

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

Hydration effects on the barrier function of stratum corneum lipids: Raman analysis of ceramides 2, III and 5.

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin; its barrier function is highly dependent on the composition and the structure as well as the organization of lipids in its extracellular matrix. Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol represent the major lipid classes present in this matrix. They play an important role in maintaining the normal hydration levels required for the normal physiological function. Despite the advancement in the understanding of the structure, composition and the function of the stratum corneum (SC), the concern of "dry skin" remains important in dermatology and care research. Most studies focus on the quantification of water in the skin using different techniques including Raman spectroscopy, while the studies that investigate the effect of hydration on the quality of the barrier function of the skin are limited. Raman spectroscopy provides structural, conformational and organizational information that could help elucidate the effect of hydration on the barrier function of the skin. In order to assess the effect of relative humidity on the lipid barrier function; we used Raman spectroscopy to follow-up the evolution of the conformation and the organization of three synthetic ceramides (CER) differing from each other by the nature of their polar heads (sphingosine, phytosphingosine and α hydroxyl sphingosine), CER 2, III and 5 respectively. CER III and 5 showed a more compact and ordered organization with stronger polar interactions at intermediate relative humidity values, while CER 2 showed opposite tendencies to those observed with CER III and 5.

Effects of atmospheric relative humidity on Stratum Corneum structure at the molecular level: ex vivo Raman spectroscopy analysis.

Skin hydration plays an important role in the optimal physical properties and physiological functions of the skin. Despite the advancements in the last decade, dry skin remains the most common characteristic of human skin disorders. Thus, it is important to understand the effect of hydration on Stratum Corneum (SC) components. In this respect, our interest consists in correlating the variations of unbound and bound water content in the SC with structural and organizational changes in lipids and proteins using a non-invasive technique: Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectra were acquired on human SC at different relative humidity (RH) levels (4-75%). The content of different types of water, bound and free, was measured using the second derivative and curve fitting of the Raman bands in the range of 3100-3700 cm(-1). Changes in lipidic order were evaluated using νC-C and νC-H. To analyze the effect of RH on the protein structure, we examined in the Amide I region, the Fermi doublet of tyrosine, and the νasymCH3 vibration. The contributions of totally bound water were found not to vary with humidity, while partially bound water varied with three different rates. Unbound water increased greatly when all sites for bound water were saturated. Lipid organization as well as protein deployment was found to be optimal at intermediate RH values (around 60%), which correspond to the maximum of SC water binding capacity. This analysis highlights the relationship between bound water, the SC barrier state and the protein structure and elucidates the optimal conditions. Moreover, our results showed that increased content of unbound water in the SC induces disorder in the structures of lipids and proteins.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids.

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

Characterization of triglycerides photooxidation under solar radiations: A stepwise Raman study.

Triglycerides (TGs) are one of the main components of the glycerolipid family. Their main task in cells is to store excess fatty acids. TG energy storage is mainly concentrated in adipocytes. TGs and free fatty acids constitute the majority (57.5%) of the skin surface lipids (SSLs). TGs are essential for the formation of the skin water barrier. This work is the second part of a global study that aims to evaluate the effect of solar radiations on SSLs using vibrational spectroscopy. In the first part of this work, a stepwise characterization of free fatty acids was performed, and different spectral descriptors were used to follow the different structural modifications during the photo-oxidation process, that is hydrogen abstraction, formation of hydroperoxides and peroxyl radicals as primary oxidation products and the formation of aldehydes, ketones, alcohol as secondary products. In this second part, the photo-oxidation of TGs was evaluated using Raman spectroscopy. A decrease in the CH2/CH3 stretching bands ratio that confirmed the hydrogen abstraction, an increase in the 1165/1740 cm-1 ((δ(OH) and υ(C-O))/ν(C=O) (ester)) ratio indicated the formation of secondary oxidation products such as hydroperoxides. And finally, an increase in the 1725/1740 cm-1 (υ(C=O) (ald.)/υ(C=O) (ester)) ratio and the trans ν(C=C)/cis ν(C=C) ratio highlighted the formation of aldehydes, alcohols, ketone, trans secondary products and others.

Molecular interactions of penetration enhancers within ceramides organization: a Raman spectroscopy approach.

Skin penetration enhancers (PEs) are present in a large number of dermatological and cosmetic products to aid absorption of curatives and aesthetics. They penetrate into skin to reversibly decrease the barrier resistance. Their mode of action on the stratum corneum lipids involves interactions at the level of the polar heads of the lipids and at the level of apolar hydrophobic alkyl chains. Vibrational spectroscopies have been widely used for the study of intra- and intermolecular structures of long chain compounds. In this work we employ Raman spectroscopy to probe the local activities on ceramides and to monitor the dependence of this activity on the ceramide structure, i.e. the presence of double bonds in the alkyl chains, the length of these chains and the nature of the polar heads. The action of three PEs, limonene, DMSO and ethanol, is studied. For intra-chain monitoring, the Raman features associated with CH(3) rocking (450-890 cm(-1)) and CC stretching (1050-1140 cm(-1)) are used while the lateral packing is observed with the CH(2) stretching band evolution (2840-2900 cm(-1)). Finally, polar interactions are probed using the Amide I band (1600-1650 cm(-1)).

Raman spectroscopy: feasibility of in vivo survey of stratum corneum lipids, effect of natural aging.

The main function of the stratum corneum (SC) is for protection against external aggression. This is described as the barrier function. It mainly depends on the presence of a lipid matrix composed of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and its derivatives in the intercellular spaces. Previous studies have reported the application of Raman spectroscopy to reveal the organization of SC lipids and the state of their barrier functions. Several spectral features are directly informative about the lateral packing and the conformational order. In this work, in vivo Raman spectroscopy is used to asses the state of the SC lipid content and thus its barrier function, directly on the skin. To study the effect of natural aging on the organization of these lipids, spectra were collected from the internal side of the forearms of twenty volunteers aged from 22 to 64. Multivariate data processing enabled separation of the in vivo spectra according to the volunteers' ages. Spectral signatures show small variations, indicating a slight change in the lateral packing of SC lipids with aging of the skin.

Studying the effects of suberythemal UV doses on the human stratum corneum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy

Background: The stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in skin barrier function. It acts as a protective barrier against water loss, eliminates foreign substances and micro-organisms and acts against harmful effects of UVR. Objectives: Our aim was to study the impact of suberythemal doses of UVA and UVB exposure on the molecular structure, organization and barrier function of the SC by following different Raman descriptors. Materials & Methods: Twenty female volunteers, aged 20-30 years, with healthy skin were enrolled. Doses of 95 mJ/cm² UVA and 15 mJ/cm² UVB were applied to volunteers' forearms. In vivo Raman measurements were performed at irradiated and control regions. Results: The impact of UVA and UVB irradiation was observed following several Raman descriptors, i.e. the ratio of vasymCH2/vsymCH2 (2885 cm-1/2850 cm-1) corresponding to the organizational order of the lipid bilayer. Water content and mobility descriptors were obtained by calculating vOH/vCH ratio. Finally, protein secondary structure was evaluated based on the 1670 cm-1/1650 cm-1 ratio related to ß sheets and α helices, respectively. Conclusion: UVA induced a loosening of the lateral packing of lipids immediately after irradiation. In contrast, delayed impact caused a tightening of the lipid barrier, an increase in water content -mainly in the unbound water fraction and a higher relative amount of ß sheets in SC proteins. Overall, these observations may explain the thickening of the SC observed in previous studies. A UVB dose of 15 mJ/cm² was apparently below the threshold necessary to induce significant changes despite the trends observed in this study.

High-temperature gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for skin surface lipids profiling.

Skin surface lipids (SSLs) arising from both sebaceous glands and skin removal form a complex lipid mixture composed of free fatty acids and neutral lipids. High-temperature gas chromatography coupled with electron impact or chemical ionization mass spectrometry was used to achieve a simple analytical protocol, without prior separation in classes and without prior cleavage of lipid molecules, in order to obtain simultaneously i) a qualitative characterization of the individual SSLs and ii) a quantitative evaluation of lipid classes. The method was first optimized with SSLs collected from the forehead of a volunteer. More than 200 compounds were identified in the same run. These compounds have been classified in five lipid classes: free fatty acids, hydrocarbons, waxes, sterols, and glycerides. The advantage to this method was it provided structural information on intact compounds, which is new for cholesteryl esters and glycerides, and to obtain detailed fingerprints of the major SSLs. These fingerprints were used to compare the SSL compositions from different body areas. The squalene/cholesterol ratio was used to determine the balance between sebaceous secretion and skin removal. This method could be of general interest in fields where complex lipid mixtures are involved.

Thermal dependence of Raman descriptors of ceramides. Part II: effect of chains lengths and head group structures.

The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), represents the main skin barrier. The SC lipids have a very exceptional composition, as the main lipid classes are ceramides (CER), long-chain fatty acids and cholesterol. Information on the function of each CER subclass and on the relation between CER lipid organisation and composition is of great importance to unravel the mechanism controlling the skin barrier function. Raman spectroscopy has been increasingly used for the study of intra- and inter-molecular structures of long-chain lipid compounds. In this study, we employed Raman spectroscopy to evaluate the effect of (1) the chain length and (2) the polar head architecture on the conformational order and organisational behaviour of CERs. The relation between the structure and the stability of the organisation was studied by monitoring the thermotropic response of each CER in the temperature range between 25 and 95 °C. This work enabled the determination of a correlation between the gauche/trans ratio in the νCC region and the state of the lateral packing. Moreover, it was shown that -OH groups in the α position of the fatty acids reduce the stability while long alkyl chains reinforces the intra- and inter-chains order.