Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE: The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics. METHODS: Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed. RESULTS: The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: L'industrie du vin génère de grandes quantités de sous-produits présentant une composition remarquablement précieuse en matière de phytochimie. Le procédé susceptible d'augmenter significativement la teneur en composés bioactifs est la fermentation par la levure et d'autres micro-organismes. Cette étude présente pour la première fois une évaluation du potentiel de l'extrait de rafle de raisin et de ses ferments réalisés à l'aide du consortium Scoby lors de l'utilisation en matière première pour améliorer les propriétés de soin cutané des cosmétiques du visage. MÉTHODES: La fermentation des rafles de raisin a été réalisée à l'aide du consortium Scoby pendant 10 et 20 jours. L'activité antioxydante et la composition chimique des extraits non fermentés et fermentés a été analysée en mettant l'accent sur les substances biologiquement actives. En outre, l'évaluation a également porté sur l'influence de l'ajout des ferments obtenus aux crèmes cosmétiques types sur l'hydratation, la perte d'eau transépidermique et le pH cutané. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats obtenus ont révélé que l'extrait de rafles et ses ferments représentaient une source riche en composés phénoliques et montraient une activité antioxydante ; les valeurs les plus élevées des extraits étant observées au 20 -ème jour de fermentation. En outre, l'ajout de l'extrait et du ferment à la crème entraîne un effet positif sur l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la perte d'eau transépidermique. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les extraits de rafles représentent une source prospective de composés actifs et peuvent constituer des principes actifs précieux pour l'industrie cosmétique. Il est possible d'utiliser des extraits non fermentés et fermentés dans les formulations cosmétiques hydratantes et pour compléter le traitement des peaux sèches et sensibles.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry.

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products.

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics.

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts.

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Positive Effect of Cannabis sativa L. Herb Extracts on Skin Cells and Assessment of Cannabinoid-Based Hydrogels Properties.

The skin is an organ that is constantly exposed to many external factors that can affect its structure and function. Due to the presence of different cannabinoid receptors on many types of skin cells, cannabinoids can interact directly with them. Therefore, as part of this work, the impact of two types of Cannabis sativa L. herb extracts on keratinocytes and fibroblasts was assessed. The content of biologically active compounds such as phenols, flavonoids, chlorophylls and cannabinoids was evaluated. The antioxidant capacity of prepared extracts using the DPPH radical, H2DCFDA probe and measurement of superoxide dismutase activity was also assessed. The cytotoxicity of hemp extracts was determined using the Alamar Blue, Neutral Red and LDH assays. The ability of the extracts to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases, collagenase and elastase, was assessed. Preparations of model hydrogels were also prepared and their effect on transepidermal water loss and skin hydration was measured. The obtained results indicate that hemp extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active substances that reduce oxidative stress, inhibit skin aging processes and positively affect the viability of skin cells. The analysis also showed that hydrogels based on cannabis extracts have a positive effect on skin hydration.

Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Selected Ayurvedic Plant Extracts.

Due to the constantly growing interest in ingredients of natural origin, this study attempts to evaluate the possibility of using extracts from three Ayurvedic plants in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases. Therefore, studies of antioxidant properties were carried out using DPPH and ABTS radicals, obtaining 76% and 88% of these radical scavenging, respectively. A significant decrease in the intracellular level of free radicals and an increase in the activity of the antioxidant enzyme-superoxide dismutase by almost 60% were also observed. In addition, the extracts were assessed for anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, obtaining over 70% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity and almost 40% of collagenase. Additionally, the cytoprotective properties of the obtained extracts on skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, were demonstrated. To assess the content of biologically active compounds, HPLC-electrospray ionization (ESI)-MS/MS multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) analyses were performed. The obtained results show that all three analyzed plants are a valuable source of biologically active substances with desired properties in the context of skin cell protection. Particularly noteworthy is the extract of Epilobium angustifolium L., for which the most promising results were obtained.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Complexes of Ectoine with the Anionic Surfactants as Active Ingredients of Cleansing Cosmetics with Reduced Irritating Potential.

For many years, an increasing number of diagnosed atopy and skin problems have been observed. For people affected by the problem of atopy, the selection of skin care products, including cosmetics, is extremely important. Cleansing cosmetics, due to their ability to cause skin irritations and disturb the hydrolipidic barrier, can increase problems with atopic skin. New solutions to reduce the effects of these products on the skin are very important. In this work, the effect of ectoine on the properties of anionic surfactants was analyzed. Based on model systems, analysis of the effect of ectoine on the irritating effect of four anionic surfactants and their ability to solubilize model sebum was performed. Antioxidant activity was also evaluated, and cytotoxic studies were performed on cell cultures. It was shown that the addition of ectoine to the anionic surfactant solutions improves its safety of use. After introducing ectoine to the surfactant solution, a decrease of irritant potential (about 20%) and a decrease in the ability to solubilize of model sebum (about 10-20%) was noted. Addition of ectoine to surfactant solutions also reduced their cytotoxicity by up to 60%. The obtained results indicate that ectoine may be a modern ingredient that improves the safety of cleansing cosmetics.

Hydrophilic Dogwood Extracts as Materials for Reducing the Skin Irritation Potential of Body Wash Cosmetics.

A significant problem related to the use of surfactants in body wash cosmetics is their propensity to trigger skin irritations. Only scarce literature exists on the effect of plant extracts on the skin irritation potential. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of hydrophilic dogwood extracts on the irritant potential of body wash gels. Extractants used in the study were water and mixtures of water with glycerine, water with trimethylglycine (betaine), and water with plant-derived glycol (propanediol). The basic biochemical properties, i.e., the ability to neutralize free radicals, and the content of polyphenols, anthocyanins and flavonoids, were determined. An attempt was undertaken to analyze the impact of the extract added to natural body wash gel formulations on product properties. The skin irritation potential was assessed by determining the zein number and the increase in the pH level of the bovine serum albumin (BSA) solution. The viscosity and foaming ability of the resulting products were evaluated. The studies revealed that an addition of dogwood extract contributes to an improvement in the properties of body wash gels and significantly increases the safety of product use through reducing the skin irritation effect.

Stevia rebaudiana Bert. leaf extracts as a multifunctional source of natural antioxidants.

The aim of the presented study was to characterize the content and biological activity of extracts prepared from dried Stevia rebaudiana leaves with potential application in the food or cosmetic industry. Aqueous (A), ethanolic (E) and glycol-aqueous (GA) extracts were analyzed for the content of polyphenols and proteins, showing that the highest amount of phenols (15.50 mg/g) and flavonoids (3.85 mg/g) contained GA. All extracts contained significant amount of protein (69.40-374.67 mg/g). Between analyzed stevia extracts (HPLC) GA contained the highest amount of polyphenols, especially ferulic (5.50 mg/g) and rozmaric (4.95 mg/g) acids derivates. The highest antiradical activity against DPPH• and ABTS•+ was noted for GA and E (IC50 = 0.38 and 0.71 µg flavonoids/mL). The highest ability to chelate Fe2+ was observed for E (IC50 = 2.08 µg flavonoids/mL). Stevia extracts were also analyzed for their cytotoxicity and fibroblast irritation potential in vitro. E and GA were the most cytotoxic and irritating, probably due to the high content of biologically active phytochemicals. On the other hand, a extract was the most tolerable by the cells. To summarize, the presented study evaluated the potential application of A, E and GA stevia extracts as natural source of antioxidants in the food and cosmetic industry.

Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts.

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels.

Cationic surfactants have a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of an amphiphilic cationic polymer - a cationic derivative of guar gum - on the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Model body wash gels based on an anionic surfactant, containing 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% of the studied compound, were subjected to analyses in order to evaluate their skin irritation effect and the ability to solubilize model sebum. Cell culture studies were also carried out. In addition, the effect of the cationized guar gum derivative on the key quality parameters of body wash cosmetics (viscosity and foaming properties) was assessed. The analyses showed that the addition of the cationic guar gum derivative induced a significant increase in the safety of use of the model body wash gels without causing any impairment of the functional properties of the product.

Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells.

In response to the constantly growing demand for high quality cosmetics we observe an increasing interest in products containing natural plant extracts. This article attempts to assess the antioxidant and cytotoxic properties of extracts from alfalfa herb and seeds (Medicago sativa L.). These extracts were obtained using ultrasound-assisted extraction method. The research was carried out on two cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The obtained results show that the examined extracts from M. sativa L. are a source of valuable biologically active agents. Both extracts were characterized by high content of flavonoids and phenolic compounds. Evaluation of antioxidant properties of extracts using DPPH• radical indicated that the alfalfa extracts can efficiently scavenge free radicals. The results of the conducted experiments demonstrated that the M. sativa L. extracts do not only have an inhibitory effect on free radicals existing in the external environment of the cell, but also have the ability to reduce the intracellular reactive oxygen species level, which may contribute to the reduction of oxidative stress inside the cells. Studies performed using cell lines indicated that the tested extracts increase the proliferation and metabolism of skin cells in vitro. The high antioxidant capacity of M. sativa L. extracts may indicate its potential use as a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

Moringa oleifera L. Extracts as Bioactive Ingredients That Increase Safety of Body Wash Cosmetics.

The work attempts to obtain a multifunctional plant extract derived from Moringa tree leaves. Obtained results indicate a strong antioxidant potential of the tested extracts. It was shown that Moringa oleifera leaf extract is a rich source of flavonoid and phenolic compounds. Furthermore, it shows a strong antioxidant activity by scavenging free radicals. In vitro toxicity studies showed that the tested extracts in concentrations up to 5% showed a positive effect on cell proliferation and metabolism and may contribute to the reduction of oxidative stress in cells. It was noted that the tested model formulation of cosmetic (1% SCS) with the addition of different types of extracts might contribute to the reduction of skin irritation and improve the safety of the product.

Role of macromolecules in the safety of use of body wash cosmetics.

One of the most challenging problems related to the use of surfactants in body wash cosmetics is their potential to cause skin irritations. Surfactants can bind with proteins, remove lipids from the epidermal surface, contribute to the disorganization of liquid crystal structures in the intercellular lipids, and interact with living skin cells. These processes can lead to skin irritations and allergic reactions, and impair the epidermal barrier function. The present study is an attempt to assess the effect of polymers and hydrolysed proteins present in the formulations of model body wash cosmetics on product properties. Special attention was given to the safety of use of this product type. The study examined three macromolecules: polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), hydrolysed wheat protein (HWP) and polyvinylpyrrolidone/hydrolysed wheat protein crosspolymer (PVP/HWP). The addition of the substances under study was found to improve the foaming properties of body wash cosmetics, increase their stability during storage, and contribute significantly to an improvement in the safety of product use by reducing the irritant potential. The strongest ability to reduce the skin irritation potential was determined for the formula enriched with the PVP/HWP crosspolymer.