Anti-Aging Potential of a Rosa centifolia Stem Extract with Focus on Phytochemical Composition by Bioguided Fractionation.

Agricultural practices generate huge amounts of by-products, often simply discarded as waste that must be processed at some cost. The natural by-products revalorisation as raw material to produce high-added value ingredients for various industrial sectors may pave the way towards more sustainable industrial practices, via an optimised utilisation of natural resources. Integrating the circular economy precepts to production systems is considered to be a more and more promising management solution to significantly reduce the environmental impact of economic activities. This article discusses the valorisation of Rosa centifolia stem to produce a natural extract with cosmetic anti-aging potential. To do so, the cosmetic potential of 30 extracts obtained by maceration of agricultural by-products in a hydroalcoholic solvent was evaluated: their activities, as well as their inhibitory activities of specific enzymes were assessed in vitro to identify those that could be used effectively as anti-ageing actives while meeting the consumer's expectations in terms of sustainability, naturality, transparency and traceability.[1] A hydroalcoholic extract of R. centifolia stem revealed itself particularly promising due to its valuable anti-hyaluronidase and antioxidant activities, and its interesting anti-elastase and anti-inflammatory potential. The bio-guided fractionation of this extract allows the characterisation of three major compounds, e. g., isoquercitrin, quercitrin and euscaphic acid, never identified in R. centifolia previously.

Extraction of Natural Fragrance Ingredients: History Overview and Future Trends.

For centuries, perfumes consisted in a combination of natural ingredients, mainly of plant origin. From the 19th century on, the advent of organic synthesis enabled the deployment of multiple synthetic olfactory notes, enriching significantly the perfumers' portfolio. Chemistry is ever since the foundation of modern perfumery. However, sustainable-minded consumers, massively rejecting synthetics for safety and ecological issues, engaged a global return to nature in numerous sectors, and the fragrance industry is not outdone. Sustainable extraction of natural products, making use of innovative technologies, process intensification and agro-based solvents, constitutes the answer to develop eco-conceived fragrant ingredients covering every olfactory family without endangering biodiversity any further. The objective of this review is to draw a clear picture of where those technological advances are today and to assess the ones that may be effectively transposed at the industrial scale tomorrow.