Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams.

OBJECTIVE: Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied. METHODS: The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a 'model' oil phase, the C12 -C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica-coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant-free sunscreen emulsion. RESULTS: Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12 -C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO2 NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO2 for ZnO up to 60-70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO2 NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant-based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45. CONCLUSION: Surfactant-free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV-filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products.

OBJECTIFS: Les émulsions de Pickering sont de plus en plus utilisées dans les domaines pharmaceutique et cosmétique, notamment pour les applications topiques, car ces systèmes utilisent des particules solides comme émulsifiants au lieu de tensioactifs qui sont connus pour provoquer des irritations cutanées. Les nanoparticules inorganiques solides (TiO2 et ZnO) utilisées comme filtres UV dans les formulations d'écran solaire peuvent également stabiliser les gouttelettes d'émulsion, de sorte que l'utilité des tensioactifs peut être remise en question. Des émulsions de protection solaire sans tensioactifs et uniquement stabilisées par de telles nanoparticules (NP) ont été étudiées. MÉTHODES: La capacité de ces NP à stabiliser les émulsions H/E contenant une phase huileuse «modèle¼, le benzoate d'alkyle C12 -C15 , a été évaluée. Des NP de ZnO et de TiO2 couvert de silice hydrophile, que l'on trouve largement dans les produits de protection solaire, ont été utilisées séparément et en mélange. L'efficacité d'émulsification, le contrôle de la taille des gouttelettes et la stabilité des émulsions de Pickering H/E uniquement stabilisées par les NP ont été étudiés. Un mélange de NP ZnO/TiO2 caractérisé par un SPF théorique de 45 a finalement été utilisé comme émulsifiant unique pour développer une émulsion de protection solaire sans tensioactif. RÉSULTATS: Des émulsions de Pickering stables contenant 10 à 60% en poids de benzoate d'alkyle C12 -C15 ont été formulées avec 2% en poids de ZnO dans la phase aqueuse. La taille des gouttelettes était contrôlée par la teneur en NP solides par rapport à l'huile et le procédé d'émulsification. Les NP de TiO2 hydrophile n'ont pas permis la stabilisation des émulsions. La substitution des NP de TiO2 par du ZnO jusqu'à 60-70% en poids dans une émulsion 20/80 H/E a été réalisée avec succès. Enfin, un mélange de NP ZnO/TiO2 a été testé en tant que système émulsifiant unique pour la formulation d'une crème solaire. Malgré une viscosité plus faible, l'émulsion de Pickering obtenue était stable et présentait un effet photoprotecteur similaire à la crème solaire à base de tensioactif correspondante avec un SPF in vitro d'environ 45. CONCLUSION: Les émulsions Pickering sans tensioactifs peuvent être stabilisées par les nanoparticules de filtre UV pour la formulation de produits de protection solaire.

Characterization of Phosphorylated Peptides by Electron-Activated and Ultraviolet Dissociation Mass Spectrometry: A Comparative Study with Collision-Induced Dissociation.

Mass-spectrometry-based methods have made significant progress in the characterization of post-translational modifications (PTMs) in peptides and proteins; however, room remains to improve fragmentation methods. Ideal MS/MS methods are expected to simultaneously provide extensive sequence information and localization of PTM sites and retain labile PTM groups. This collection of criteria is difficult to meet, and the various activation methods available today offer different capabilities. In order to examine the specific case of phosphorylation on peptides, we investigate electron transfer dissociation (ETD), electron-activated dissociation (EAD), and 193 nm ultraviolet photodissociation (UVPD) and compare all three methods with classical collision-induced dissociation (CID). EAD and UVPD show extensive backbone fragmentation, comparable in scope to that of CID. These methods provide diverse backbone fragmentation, producing a/x, b/y, and c/z ions with substantial sequence coverages. EAD displays a high retention efficiency of the phosphate modification, attributed to its electron-mediated fragmentation mechanisms, as observed in ETD. UVPD offers reasonable retention efficiency, also allowing localization of the PTM site. EAD experiments were also performed in an LC-MS/MS workflow by analyzing phosphopeptides spiked in human plasma, and spectra allow accurate identification of the modified sites and discrimination of isomers. Based on the overall performance, EAD and 193 nm UVPD offer alternative options to CID and ETD for phosphoproteomics.

Scout triggered multiple reaction monitoring mass spectrometry for the rapid transfer of large multiplexed targeted methods in metabolomics.

The field of metabolomics based on mass spectrometry has grown considerably in recent years due to the need to detect and, above all, quantify a very large number of metabolites, simultaneously. Up to now, targeted multiplexed analysis on complex samples by Liquid Chromatography coupled with tandem Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) has relied almost exclusively on compound detection based on absolute retention times, as in the Scheduled-MRM (sMRM) approach. Those methods turn out to be poorly transferable from one instrument to another and result in a time-consuming and tedious method development involving a significant number of critical parameters that need specific re-optimisation. To address this challenge, we introduce a novel acquisition mode called scout-triggered MRM (stMRM). In stMRM, a marker transition is used to trigger MS analysis for a group of dependent target analytes. These marker transitions are strategically distributed throughout the chromatographic run, and the dependent analytes are associated based on their retention times. The result is a targeted assay that remains robust even in the presence of retention time shifts. A 3 to 5-fold increase in the number of detected transitions associated to plasma metabolites was obtained when transferring from a direct application of a published sMRM to a stMRM method. This significant improvement highlights the universal applicability of the stMRM method, as it can be implemented on any LC system without the need for extensive method development. We subsequently illustrate the robustness of stMRM in modified chromatographic elution conditions. Despite a large change in metabolite's selectivity, the multiplexed assay successfully recovered 70% of the monitored transitions when consequently modifying the gradient method. These findings demonstrate the versatility and adaptability of stMRM, opening new avenues for the development of highly multiplexed LC-MS/MS methods in metabolomics. These methods are characterized by their analytical transparency and straightforward implementation using existing literature data.

Effect of massage on retinol skin penetration.

Topical administration of active substances may be promoted by optimizing not only the vehicle formulation but also the application protocol. The formulation aspects are widely studied in the literature while a few works are dedicated to the development of application methods. In this context, we studied an application protocol usable as a part of skincare routine by investigating the effect of massage on the skin penetration of retinol. Retinol is a lipophilic molecule widely used as an anti-ageing firming agent in cosmetic formulations. Massage was applied to pig skin explants mounted to Franz diffusion cells after or before the deposit of the retinol-loaded formulation. Thetype of skin massage (roll or rotary type) and its duration were varied.The massage protocol had a significant influence on retinol skin penetration. Due to its highly lipophilic character, retinol accumulated into the stratum corneum but, depending on the massage protocol, a significant retinol concentration was obtained after 4 h in epidermis and dermis layers. Results showed that the roll-type massage was significantly more efficient than the rotary process that exhibited little effect on retinol cutaneous penetration. Such results could be interesting for the development of massage devices in association with cosmetic formulations.

Elastic cationic liposomes for vitamin C delivery: Development, characterization and skin absorption study.

The influence of hydrophilic surfactants acting on the membrane elasticity of liposomes on the skin absorption of vitamin C is investigated. The purpose of encapsulation inside cationic liposomes is to improve the skin delivery of vitamin C. The properties of elastic liposomes (ELs) are compared to that of conventional liposomes (CLs). ELs are formed by the addition of the "edge activator" Polysorbate 80 to the CLs composed of soybean lecithin, cationic lipid DOTAP (1,2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammoniopropane chloride), and cholesterol. The liposomes are characterized by dynamic light scattering and electron microscopy. No toxicity is detected in human keratinocyte cells. Evidences of Polysorbate 80 incorporation into liposome bilayers and of the higher flexibility of ELs are given by isothermal titration calorimetry and pore edge tension measurements in giant unilamellar vesicles. The presence of a positive charge in the liposomal membrane increases the encapsulation efficacy by approximately 30% for both CLs and ELs. Skin absorption of vitamin C from CLs, ELs and a control aqueous solution measured in Franz cells shows a high delivery of vitamin C into each skin layer and the acceptor fluid from both liposome types. These results suggest that another mechanism drives skin diffusion, involving interactions between cationic lipids and vitamin C depending on the skin pH.

Skin absorption of mixed halide anions from concentrated aqueous solutions.

Non-ideal behaviour of mixed ions is disclosed in skin absorption experiments of mixed halide anions in excised pig skin. Comparison of skin absorption of pure and mixed ions shows enhanced penetration of chaotropic ions from mixed solutions. An experimental design and statistical analysis using a Scheffé {3,2} simplex-lattice allows investigating the full ternary diagram of anion mixtures of fluoride, bromide and iodide. Synergism in mixed absorption is observed for chaotropic bromide and iodide anions. A refined analysis highlighting specific interactions is made by considering the ratio of the absorbed amount to the ion activity instead of the directly measured absorbed amount. Statistical analysis discards non-significant effects and discloses specific interactions. Such interactions between bromide and iodide cause an absorption enhancement of their partner by a factor of 2-3 with respect to the case of ideal mixing. It is proposed that enhanced absorption from mixed solution involves the formation of neutral complex species of mixed bromide and iodide with endogenous magnesium or calcium inside stratum corneum.

New insights in the formation of deoxynucleoside adducts with the heterocyclic aromatic amines PhIP and IQ by means of ion trap MSn and accurate mass measurement of fragment ions.

The formation of adducts by reaction of active metabolites of two heterocyclic aromatic amines (NHOH-PhIP and NHOH-IQ) at nucleophilic sites of deoxynucleosides has been studied by LC-MS(n) analyses of the obtained reaction mixtures. Sequential MS(3) experiments were carried out on an ion trap mass spectrometer to gain extensive structural information on each adduct detected in the first MS step. Attribution of ions was supported by accurate mass measurements performed on an Orbitrap mass analyzer. Particular attention was given to ions diagnostic of the linking between the heterocyclic aromatic amine (HAA) and the deoxynucleoside. By this way, the structures of five adducts have been characterized in this study, among which two are new compounds: dG-N7-IQ and dA-N(6)-IQ. No depurinating adduct was found in the reactions investigated therein. As expected, the C8 and N(2) atoms of dG were found as the most reactive sites of deoxynucleosides, resulting in the formation of two different adducts with IQ and one adduct with PhIP. An unusual non-depurinating dG-N7-IQ adduct has been characterized and a mechanism is proposed for its formation on the basis of the reactivity of arylamines. A dA-N(6)-IQ adduct has been identified for the first time in this work, showing that HAAs can generate DNA adducts with bases other than dG.

Fragmentation reactions of phenoxide anions: deprotonated Dinoterb and related structures.

Dinoterb (6-t-butyl-2,4-dinitrophenol), 1, Dinoseb (6-secbutyl-2,4-dinitrophenol), 2, TBP (2-t-butylphenol), 3, and DNP (2,4-dinitrophenol), 4, have been analyzed by electrospray ionization in the negative mode (ESI-N) - tandem mass spectrometry. Nominal laboratory collision energy was varied from zero to 60 eV during the experiments. Apparent fragmentation energies were estimated from a parametric fitting of the collision efficiency curves. In parallel, fragmentation mechanisms of the deprotonated molecules [M-H](-) were explored using quantum chemistry modeling at the B3LYP/6-31 + G(d,p) level. A major fragmentation of the [M-H](-) ions of Dinoterb and Dinoseb is elimination of an alcohol molecule. This reaction is shown to involve one oxygen atom originating from a nitro group rather than the phenoxide moiety. Eliminations of NO, C(4) and CH(2) = C(CH(3))(2), i.e. reactions involving significant rearrangements, constitute the major part of the other fragmentation pathways observed from [3-H](-) and [4-H](-) ions.

Mass spectrometric investigation of the sequence selectivity for adduction of heterocyclic aromatic amines on single-strand oligonucleotides.

Heterocyclic aromatic amines (HAAs) generated during the cooking of meats are known to be genotoxic substances able to form covalent bonds with DNA bases after metabolic activation. This work aimed at the investigation of the influence of the local environment of nucleobases along the nucleotidic sequence on its modification induced by two different HAAs, namely 2-amino-1-methyl-6-phenylimidazo[4,5-b]pyridine (PhIP) and 2-amino-3-methylimidazo[4,5-f]quinoline (IQ), in order to identify possible sequences more susceptible to modification. A systematic study of the neighbouring base effect on the adduction was emphasized. Thus, PhIP and IQ adducts have been synthesized with various T-rich model single-strand oligonucleotides displaying different flanking bases (A, G, C or T) at the 3' or the 5' side of the targeted guanine, which allowed a comparison of the flanking base effects on adduction. Modified oligonucleotides were then analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled to electrospray ionization mass spectrometry. The localization of the modifications induced by PhIP or IQ along the oligonucleotide sequence was achieved by tandem mass spectrometry, and modification yields of the various model sequences were compared. Results indicate a favouring sequence context effect on the G-C8-IQ adduct formation with the sequence 5'GGG3'. Although higher than IQ, modification yields observed with PhIP showed a less obvious effect of the neighbouring base on the G-C8-PhIP adduct formation, with a preferential sequence 5'GGA/G/T3'.