Efficacy of a multitargeted, salicylic acid-based dermocosmetic cream compared to benzoyl peroxide 5% in Acne vulgaris: Results from a randomized study.

INTRODUCTION: Acne vulgaris (acne) is characterized by both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) 5% is approved to treat acne but may cause skin irritation and/or contact allergy. OBJECTIVES: To compare the benefit in acne of a multitargeted dermocosmetic cream containing salicylic acid, lipohydroxy acid, niacinamide, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, piroctone olamine, zinc, Aqua posae filiformis, and thermal spring water (DC-Eff) to BPO 5% gel. MATERIALS AND METHODS: 150 Caucasian subjects (50% female) aged between 18 and 40 years, with mild to moderate acne according to the GEA (Global Evaluation of Acne) grading system were randomized into two parallel groups (DC-Eff or BPO to be applied twice daily for 56 days). IGA (investigator global assessment), GEA, lesion count, clinical signs and symptoms, and subject assessment were evaluated at baseline, and after 28 and 56 days (D28 and D56) of treatment. RESULTS: The responder analyses of the IGA and GEA scores showed that 62.2% and 47.3%, respectively, in the DC-Eff, compared with 50.0% and 36.5%, respectively, in the BPO, had improved by at least one point at D56. Inflammatory, non-inflammatory, and total lesion counts significantly (p < 0.0001) decreased with both products from baseline, with no between-group difference. Subjects considered that their skin was smoother and that DC-Eff was easy to apply. DC-Eff was better tolerated than BPO. CONCLUSIONS: DC-Eff applied twice daily is as beneficial as BPO in improving mild-to-moderate acne. DC-Eff was better tolerated than BPO and highly appreciated.

Photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing a combination of Ginkgo biloba and green tea extracts.

The beneficial photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing combined extracts of Ginkgo biloba (GB) and green tea (GT) have not been investigated. The present study aims to assess the photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing GB and GT combined or not by applications on the dorsal skin of hairless mice prior to UVA/B irradiation. After 20 h, skin barrier damage (TEWL), erythema, histological alterations and sunburn cell formation were evaluated. The results showed that only extract supplemented formulations protected the skin against the UV-induced damage. Formulations containing GB provided total protection of the skin barrier function avoiding UV radiation damage such as TEWL and erythema and were more effective than those containing GT. However, it is suggested that formulations containing combined GB and GT may provide substantial photoprotective effects since different aspects of skin damage were influenced by each extract.

Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study.

Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm(2)) and determination of their respective sizes in mm(2). Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally refected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having "enlarged pores" like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore's morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed.

Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe vera extracts (Aloe barbadensis Miller), often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration, after a single and a 1- and 2-week period of application, by using skin bioengineering techniques. METHODS: Stable formulations containing 5% (w/w) of a trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend were supplemented with 0.10%, 0.25% or 0.50% (w/w) of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract and applied to the volar forearm of 20 female subjects. Skin conditions in terms of the water content of the stratum corneum and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 210) were analysed before and after a single and 1- and 2-week period of daily application. RESULTS: After a single application, only formulations supplemented with 0.25% and 0.50% (w/w) of Aloe vera extract increased the water content of the stratum corneum, while after the 2-week period application, all formulations containing the extract (0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) had the same effect, in both cases as compared with the vehicle. TEWL was not modified after a single and after 1- and 2-week period of application, when compared with the vehicle. CONCLUSION: Our results show that freeze-dried Aloe vera extract is a natural effective ingredient for improving skin hydration, possibly through a humectant mechanism. Consequently, it may be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also as a complement in the treatment of dry skin.