Sorption-desorption test for functional assessment of skin treated with a lipid system that mimics epidermal lamellar bodies.

BACKGROUND: Many skin diseases are associated with either increases or decreases in lamellar body secretion, or dysfunctional lamellar bodies. Consequently, diseased skin is characterized by reduced barrier function and altered lipid composition and organization. Human skin is commonly evaluated in vivo with non-invasive biophysical techniques. The dynamic functions of the skin are evaluated with repeat measurements such as the sorption-desorption test (SDT). OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo skin hydration-dehydration kinetics after treatment with a lipid system that mimics the morphology, structure and composition of lamellar bodies in both healthy and irritated human skin. METHODS: A patch with an aqueous solution of 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was used to irritate the skin of the volunteers. The SDT was performed with the CM 820 corneometer. RESULTS: After treatment with this system, both healthy and SLS-irritated skin increased their ability to retain water and to release water slowly during the desorption phase. CONCLUSIONS: Treatment with this system seems to reinforce the barrier function in both healthy and SLS-irritated human skin. Therefore, the present study provides evidence that this system could be of interest for developing future treatments for protecting and repairing the skin.

Reducing the Harmful Effects of Infrared Radiation on the Skin Using Bicosomes Incorporating ß-Carotene.

AIM: In this work the effect of infrared (IR) radiation, at temperatures between 25 and 30°C, on the formation of free radicals (FRs) in the skin is studied. Additionally, the influence of IR radiation at high temperatures in the degradation of skin collagen is evaluated. In both experiments the protective effect against IR radiation of phospholipid nanostructures (bicosomes) incorporating ß-carotene (Bcb) is also evaluated. METHODS: The formation of FRs in skin under IR exposure was measured near physiological temperatures (25-30°C) using 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide spin trap and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. The study of the collagen structure was performed by small-angle X-ray scattering using synchrotron radiation. RESULTS: EPR results showed an increase in the hydroxyl radical in the irradiated skin compared to the native skin. The skin collagen was degraded by IR exposure at high temperatures of approximately 65°C. The treatment with Bcb reduced the formation of FRs and kept the structure of collagen. CONCLUSIONS: The formation of FRs by IR radiation does not depend on the increase of skin temperature. The decrease of FRs and the preservation of collagen fibers in the skin treated with Bcb indicate the potential of this lipid system to protect skin under IR exposure.

Advanced lipid systems containing ß-carotene: stability under UV-vis radiation and application on porcine skin in vitro.

Phospholipid-based nanostructures, bicelles and bicosomes, are proposed as carriers of the antioxidant ß-carotene. The stability of these nanostructures and their carotenoid cargo was evaluated in an oxidation environment induced by ultraviolet A, visible and infrared A radiation (UVA-VIS-IRA). Additionally, the effect of these nanoaggregates on non-irradiated and irradiated skin microstructure was studied. The characterization of the lipid systems was performed using dynamic light scattering (DLS) and cryo-transmission electron microscopy (Cryo-TEM) and lipid peroxidation of the systems was determined by thiobarbituric acid (TBARS) assay. Moreover, the stability of ß-carotene in these lipid systems under this radiation was investigated using Raman spectroscopy. The results showed that the particle size of the bicelles did not change due to radiation. However, the size of the bicosomes increased slightly after irradiation. The TBARS assay showed the absence of peroxides in the bicelles and bicosomes, indicating the preservation of the lipid molecules under the radiation used. Raman experiments showed that bicosomes protected ß-carotene from degradation induced by radiation better than liposomes or dissolution in chloroform. With respect to the skin microstructure, no changes after irradiation were observed via freeze substitution transmission electron microscopy (FSTEM). This technique also showed the presence of vesicular structures in the stratum corneum (SC) after treatment with bicosomes.

Characterization of new DOPC/DHPC platform for dermal applications.

Systems formed by mixtures of the phospholipids dioleoylphosphatidylcholine (DOPC) and dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) were characterized by use of differential scanning calorimetry, small angle X-ray scattering and two electron-microscopy techniques, freeze fracture electron microscopy and cryogenic transmission electron microscopy. These techniques allowed for the determination of the size, morphology, structural topology, self-assembly and thermotropic behavior of the nanostructures present in the mixtures. The interaction between the two phospholipids provides curvatures, irregularities and the increase of thickness and flexibility in the membrane. These effects led to the formation of different aggregates with a differential distribution of both phospholipids. The effect of these systems on the skin in vivo was evaluated by measurement of the biophysical skin parameters. Our results show that the DOPC/DHPC application induces a decrease in the permeability and in the hydration of the tissue. These effects in vivo are related to different microstructural changes promoted by these systems in the skin in vitro, published in a recent work. The fundamental biophysical analyses of DOPC/DHPC systems contribute to our understanding of the mechanisms that govern their interaction with the skin.

Bicelles: lipid nanostructured platforms with potential dermal applications.

Bicelles emerge as promising membrane models, and because of their attractive combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility, they become new targets in skin research. Bicelles are able to modify skin biophysical parameters and modulate the skin's barrier function, acting to enhance drug penetration. Because of their nanostructured assemblies, bicelles have the ability to penetrate through the narrow intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum of the skin to reinforce its lipid lamellae. The bicelle structure also allows for the incorporation of different molecules that can be carried through the skin layers. All of these characteristics can be modulated by varying the lipid composition and experimental conditions. The remarkable versatility of bicelles is their most important characteristic, which makes their use possible in various fields. This system represents a platform for dermal applications. In this review, an overview of the main properties of bicelles and their effects on the skin are presented.

A unique bicellar nanosystem combining two effects on stratum corneum lipids.

In this work a new composition (dioleylphosphatidylcholine, DOPC, and dihexanoylphosphocholine, DHPC) is used to form the bicellar system and to evaluate their effect on stratum corneum (SC) lipids. Through this article, "bicellar system" will refer to a lipid binary system in which lipids are self-assembled forming different nanostructures. DOPC/DHPC system is characterized by dynamic light scattering and cryo-transmission electron microscopy showing two different nanostructures: unilamellar vesicles and tubular structures. In order to study the SC lipid organization attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, freeze-substitution applied to transmission electron microscopy and X-ray scattering are used. This work compares for the first time the use of two different X-ray scattering methods, transmission with synchrotron radiation and grazing incidence with conventional source, for skin studies. Our results indicate that vesicle-shaped structures remain adhered to the SC surface being unable to penetrate into the skin probably due to their large and voluminous size, while a proportion of structures could have interaction with SC lipids increasing the lamellar organization. Thus, the different nanostructures present in the system have different effects on SC lipids. The appropriate combination of both effects and the possibility to incorporate drugs offer a range of possibilities for the DOPC/DHPC system in development for skin care products.

Bicellar systems to modify the phase behaviour of skin stratum corneum lipids.

Bicellar systems are a fascinating category of versatile lipid assemblies that comprise bilayered disk-shaped nanoaggregates formed in water by long and short alkyl chain phospholipids. Bicelles bridge the gap between micelles and lipid vesicles by combining the attractive properties of both systems. These structures have recently been proposed in dermatological, cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Two new binary bicellar systems composed of cholesterol sulphate (SCHOL) and long-chain phospholipids (dimyristoyl-phosphatidylcholine, DMPC, or dipalmitoyl-phosphatidylcholine, DPPC) are characterised herein by differential scanning calorimetry, fluorescence spectroscopy, X-ray scattering and microscopy. Additionally, a comparative study on skin treated with the new SCHOL systems (DMPC/SCHOL and DPPC/SCHOL) and classic DHPC systems (DMPC/DHPC and DPPC/DHPC) was performed. These studies were conducted to determinate how deeply bicelles penetrate into the skin and the extension of their effect on the phase behaviour of stratum corneum (SC) lipids using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and two-photon excitation fluorescence microscopy. Our results show that SCHOL modified the typical discoidal morphology and the phase behaviour of the systems, inducing coexistence of two phases, liquid-ordered and ripple phases. The effect of the systems on SC lipids depends on their composition and is related to the fluidity of the SC lipid alkyl chains. Thus, systems with DMPC induced more disorder in SC lipids than systems with DPPC, and SCHOL did not modify the lipid arrangement. Perdeuterated systems in the infrared spectroscopy technique supported a different distribution in the tissue for every system. DMPC systems were primarily at the first layers of the SC, whereas DPPC systems were more widely distributed. Systems with SCHOL had enhanced distribution and penetration of bicellar systems throughout the SC.

Bicosomes: bicelles in dilute systems.

Bicelles are discoidal phospholipid nanostructures at high lipid concentrations. Under dilute conditions, bicelles become larger and adopt a variety of morphologies. This work proposes a strategy to preserve the discoidal morphology of bicelles in environments with high water content. Bicelles were formed in concentrated conditions and subsequently encapsulated in liposomes. Later dilution of these new structures, called bicosomes, demonstrated that lipid vesicles were able to isolate and protect bicelles entrapped inside them from the medium. Characterization of systems before and after dilution by dynamic light-scattering spectroscopy and cryo-transmission electron microscopy showed that free bicelles changed in size and morphology, whereas encapsulated bicelles remained unaltered by the effect of dilution. Free and entrapped bicelles (containing the paramagnetic contrast agent gadodiamide) were injected into rat brain lateral ventricles. Coronal and sagittal visualization was performed by magnetic resonance imaging. Whereas rats injected with free bicelles did not survive the surgery, those injected with bicosomes did, and a hyperintensity effect due to gadodiamide was observed in the cerebrospinal fluid. These results indicate that bicosomes are a good means of preserving the morphology of bicelles under dilution conditions.

Application of bicellar systems on skin: diffusion and molecular organization effects.

The effect of bicelles formed by dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC)/dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) on stratum corneum (SC) lipids was studied by attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy at different temperatures. Analysis of the lipid organization in terms of chain conformational order and lateral packing shows that the use of bicelles hampers the fluidification of SC lipids with temperature and leads to a lateral packing corresponding to a stable hexagonal phase. Grazing incidence small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirm these results and give evidence of higher lamellar order after treatment with these bicelles. Additionally, the effects of DPPC/DHPC and dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC)/DHPC bicelles at different SC depths were compared. The combination of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and the tape-stripping method was very useful for this purpose.

Lamellar body mimetic system: An up-to-down repairing strategy of the stratum corneum lipid structure.

Epidermal lamellar bodies (LBs) are organelles that secrete their content, mainly lipids and enzymes, into the intercorneocyte space of the stratum corneum (SC) to form the lamellar structure of this tissue. Thus, LBs have a key role in permeability and the microbial cutaneous barrier. In this work, a complex lipid system that mimics the morphology, structure and composition of LBs has been designed. To evaluate the effect of this system on delipidized SC, in vitro experiments using porcine skin were performed. The microstructure of SC samples (native, delipidized and, delipidized after treatment) was evaluated by freeze substitution transmission electron microscopy (FSTEM) and grazing-incidence small-angle X-ray scattering (GISAXS). Delipidized SC samples showed no evidence of lipid lamellae after extraction with organic solvents. However, after treatment with the LB mimetic system, new lamellar structures between corneocytes were detected by FSTEM, and high intensity peaks and reflections were found in the GISAXS pattern. These results demonstrate a strong effect of the treatment in repairing part of the lipid lamellar structure of the SC. Accordingly, future research could extend the use of this system to repair skin barrier dysfunction.

A rhenium tris-carbonyl derivative as a model molecule for incorporation into phospholipid assemblies for skin applications.

A rhenium tris-carbonyl derivative (fac-[Re(CO)3Cl(2-(1-dodecyl-1H-1,2,3,triazol-4-yl)-pyridine)]) was incorporated into phospholipid assemblies, called bicosomes, and the penetration of this molecule into skin was monitored using Fourier-transform infrared microspectroscopy (FTIR). To evaluate the capacity of bicosomes to promote the penetration of this derivative, the skin penetration of the Re(CO)3 derivative dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), a typical enhancer, was also studied. Dynamic light scattering results (DLS) showed an increase in the size of the bicosomes with the incorporation of the Re(CO)3 derivative, and the FTIR microspectroscopy showed that the Re(CO)3 derivative incorporated in bicosomes penetrated deeper into the skin than when dissolved in DMSO. When this molecule was applied on the skin using the bicosomes, 60% of the Re(CO)3 derivative was retained in the stratum corneum (SC) and 40% reached the epidermis (Epi). Otherwise, the application of this molecule via DMSO resulted in 95% of the Re(CO)3 derivative being in the SC and only 5% reaching the Epi. Using a Re(CO)3 derivative with a dodecyl-chain as a model molecule, it was possible to determine the distribution of molecules with similar physicochemical characteristics in the skin using bicosomes. This fact makes these nanostructures promising vehicles for the application of lipophilic molecules inside the skin.

Barrier function of intact and impaired skin: percutaneous penetration of caffeine and salicylic acid.

BACKGROUND: Normally, percutaneous absorption tests are carried out using skin biopsies for an apparent and acceptable physiological condition. However, under different pathological conditions, the stratum corneum (SC) barrier function is impaired. METHODS: The barrier function of the SC was assessed by correlation between the number of repeated applications of tape strips on the skin and its transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as well as by in vitro percutaneous absorption studies of different compounds, using Franz diffusion cells and porcine skin previously stripped. RESULTS: A progressive diminution of the skin barrier function has been detected by TEWL both in vitro and in vivo as the number of skin tape strips increases. On the other hand, the percutaneous absorption of the compounds tested increases in a different way as the number of strips increases. Salicylic acid increases linearly depending on the barrier disturbance. However, percutaneous absorption of caffeine exponentially increased with barrier disturbance. Our results indicate that the barrier impairment of skin always increases the penetration behavior of a given compound; however, the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the compounds or formulations used could greatly modify its penetration profile, especially when a modified skin is used. CONCLUSIONS: This in vitro protocol may be useful to simulate the percutaneous absorption profile of some drugs applied onto skin with an impaired SC barrier function and could be used to avoid, to some extent, the use of in vivo experimental animal models in the dermopharmaceutical field.

Conformational changes in stratum corneum lipids by effect of bicellar systems.

Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy was applied to study the effects of the bicelles formed by dimyristoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DMPC) and dihexanoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DHPC) in porcine stratum corneum (SC) in vitro. A comparison of skin samples treated and untreated with bicelles at different temperatures was carried out. The analysis of variations after treatment in the position of the symmetric CH2 stretching, CH2 scissoring, and CH2 rocking vibrations reported important information about the effect of bicelles on the skin. Bicellar systems caused a phase transition from the gel or solid state to the liquid crystalline state in the lipid conformation of SC, reflecting the major order-disorder transition from hexagonally packed to disordered chains. Grazing incidence small and wide X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirmed this effect of bicelles on the SC. These results are probably related to with the permeabilizing effect previously described for the DMPC/DHPC bicelles.