4-Methylbenzylidene camphor microspheres: reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic®) permeation and distribution.

OBJECTIVE: The UV filter 3(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor (4-MBC) is a common ingredient in sunscreen cosmetic products. However, different 'in vitro' and 'in vivo' studies suggest that 4-MBC can cause endocrine disrupting effects. Therefore, there is a need for new systems able to minimize the skin penetration of this UV filter. The aim of this study was to evaluate cutaneous permeation and distribution, through and into EPISKIN reconstituted epidermis (RE) from an O/W emulsion containing 4-MBC free or encapsulated in polymeric substantive microspheres. METHODS: Microspheres containing 4-MBC were prepared using the emulsification-solvent evaporation method and characterized for shape and surface morphology and encapsulation efficiency. O/A emulsions containing sunscreen free or encapsulated in microspheres were undergone to permeation tests through RE using vertical diffusion cells. At the end of the in vitro permeation experiments, the skin was subjected to tape stripping procedure to separate stratum corneum from viable epidermis. Each part was properly treated to extract the sunscreen retained and subject to quantitative analysis. RESULTS: The encapsulation of the sunscreen in the microspheres remarkably reduced the permeation of 4-MBC and increased its retention on the skin surface where its action is more desirable. CONCLUSIONS: The results of this study confirm the validity of substantive microspheres as an ideal formulation candidate to use in sunscreen preparation as they appear minimizing its systemic uptake and the potential associate toxicological risks. Therefore, more of the active sunscreen remains on the surface of the skin where it is intended to act and a higher activity it will explicate.

Validation of bovine hoof slices as a model for infected human toenails: in vitro ciclopirox transungual permeation.

BACKGROUND: Topical therapy has recently been proposed for treating onychomycosis and other nail disturbances. However, the clinical outcome may be limited by the difficulty of active ingredients effectively penetrating the nail plate. Bovine hoof membranes have been widely used to predict in vitro efficacy of drug products in nail diseases. Many studies have compared bovine hooves with human healthy nails, considering the difference between healthy and unhealthy nails to be negligible. OBJECTIVES: To validate bovine hoof slices as a model for human unhealthy nails by investigating the transungual permeation/retention of ciclopirox (CPX) through bovine hoof slices and excised infected human toenails after application of a new film-forming formulation (P-3051). To investigate the ability of CPX to achieve fungicidal concentrations in and through infected toenails. METHODS: A new experimental technique based on a permeation unit allowed analysis by high-performance liquid chromatography of the amounts of CPX permeating through and retained in the membranes. The efficacy index was evaluated as follows: amount of permeated CPX/Trichophyton rubrum minimum inhibiting concentration. RESULTS: Extrapolated CPX flux through bovine hoof slices was about 14-fold higher than through infected human toenails, the difference being mainly due to the fourfold higher thickness of the toenails. In toenails, the CPX efficacy index for T. rubrum was positive (>1·0) soon after P-3051 application. CONCLUSIONS: This study confirms the validity of bovine hoof slices as a model for infected human nails, and suggests a substantial equivalence between the two models. Following P-3051 application, CPX reaches fungicidal concentrations in and through human infected toenails.

Skin permeation and distribution of two sunscreens: a comparison between reconstituted human skin and hairless rat skin.

The aims of this work were (a) to develop a simple and reproducible procedure for percutaneous absorption and distribution tests of sunscreens using one human skin culture model (Epiderm 606; reconstructed epidermis, RE), (b) to compare the said model with rat skin (RS) in vitro and (c) to evaluate the effect of different formulations. The cutaneous permeation and distribution of two UV filters, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate (MC80) and ethylhexyltriazone (T150), using 3 different vehicles were investigated. The permeation studies demonstrated that neither MC80 nor T150 permeated through both RS and RE in spite of different thicknesses of the 2 substrates. Distribution studies demonstrated that sectioning by cryomicrotome to obtain horizontal skin layers was suitable for both RS and RE (apart from its small thickness) with a good reproducibility of data. The amounts of sunscreens retained in the 2 substrates were in the same order of magnitude for all formulations with a greater depot in RS. Different distribution profiles of the tested formulations could be ascribed to the different lipid compositions of RE and RS. Since the physicochemical characteristics of RE are closer to those of human skin, the results obtained with reconstructed human skin models could be suitable to replace human skin in 'in vitro testing'.

Development of an HPLC/UV assay for the evaluation of inhibitors of human recombinant monoacylglycerol lipase.

Monoacylglycerol lipase (MAGL) is a membrane-associated cytosolic serine hydrolase which catalyses the hydrolysis of the endocannabinoid 2-arachidonoylglycerol into arachidonic acid and glycerol. MAGL represents the link between the endocannabinoid and the eicosanoid system indeed its inhibition enhances endocannabinoid signalling and lowers eicosanoid production. Here we present a radioactive-free, sensitive and solid HPLC-UV based method to evaluate MAGL activity by using 4-nitrophenylacetate (4-NPA) as substrate. The enzymatic activity is measured by quantifying the 4-nitrophenol (PNP) (λ = 315 nm) formation on a C18 stationary phase. The method was validated by calculating IC50 values of the reference inhibitors JZL184, CAY10499 and JW642 and confirming the irreversible and non-competitive mechanism of inhibition for JZL184. Furthermore in order to resemble the catalytic conditions of MAGL at cell membrane level, the surfactant Triton X-100 was added, as a micelle forming agent and 4-nitrophenyldodecanoate (4-NPDo) was used as lipophilic substrate for MAGL. The data obtained confirmed that the HPLC method is an alternative, radioactive-free approach for the screening and characterization of new MAGL inhibitors. Finally this assay prevents, in an unequivocal manner, any interference related to the intrinsic absorbance of screened compounds or metabolites generated upon enzymatic cleavage which could seriously affect the assay readout.

Optimization of skin permeation and distribution of ibuprofen by using nanostructures (coagels) based on alkyl vitamin C derivatives.

In this investigation two vitamin C-based -6-O-ascorbic acid esters (ASC12 and ASC16), able to form liquid-crystal structures (coagels) was evaluated for their potential usefulness to promote the permeation and distribution of ibuprofen (IBU). Two coagel formulations and the same coagels added of polyethylene glycol (PEG-400) were assayed in comparison with a commercial product (Arfen®) by using hairless rat skin as model. The ASC16 and ASC12 derivatives gave rise to stable supramolecular assemblies in water and in water/PEG mixtures (coagels), allowing the solubilization of IBU (0.85%) and producing a IBU controlled release systems, as evidenced by the dynamic dialyse test: the n values were near 1.0, indicative of a linear kinetic, for all coagel formulations, except for the ASC12PEG/C formulation (n=1.51). Our results evidenced the enhancement activity of coagels and the synergic effect of the combination with PEG: all coagels showed a higher amount of IBU permeated through the skin compared to commercial Arfen® with an enhancement factor of 52.94 and 21.53 for ASC12PEG/C and ASC16/C respectively. Otherwise, coagels formulations appeared to produce a low IBU depot in the skin and in the same order of magnitude in epidermis and derma, in spite of significant increase of IBU cutaneous permeation. The positive synergic effect of the coagel-PEG mixtures was demonstrated by the high amount of IBU accumulated in the upper skin layers. The effect of the coagels on the IBU skin permeation and distribution depending on their hydro-lipophilic character could allow a rational design and an optimization of topical formulations.

Niaouli oils from different sources: analysis and influence on cutaneous permeation of estradiol in vitro.

Previous studies in vitro had identified niaouli essential oil (NEO) as a valuable transdermal permeation promoter for estradiol (ES). Subsequent considerations on the complex issue of NEO provenance and composition stimulated the present investigation, which was aimed at defining the composition of NEOs obtained from four different sources, at evaluating their influence on transdermal permeation of ES through hairless mouse skin, and at formulating and evaluating simpler terpene mixtures mimicking the NEOs' composition. While all oils contained 1,8-cineol (eucalyptol) as the main component, appreciable variations in composition could be evidenced, originating differences on the ES cutaneous permeation. Two artificial mixtures containing the same proportions of the main terpenes present in each oil (except the commercially unavailable gamma-terpineol) proved equal or significantly superior in activity when compared with the original oils. It is felt that this study might contribute to the formulation of terpene mixtures acting more efficiently and reproducibly with respect to natural NEOs, whose complex and variable composition, depending on growing place, season, and extraction process, is well documented in the relevant literature.