A photographic scale for the evaluation of facial skin aging in Indian women.

The process of facial skin aging differs between different ethnic populations. Standardized tools to objectively evaluate facial skin aging in clinical and epidemiological studies in different ethnic populations are needed. We designed and validated a photonumeric scale for assessment of facial aging in the Indian population. A total of 149 subjects were selected from an electronic photographic database of 300 women from the Mumbai region. An expert consensus panel selected nine subjects representing a spectrum of skin damage from none to severe, on the basis of wrinkling and tissue slackening. The nine-point scale, composed of one face-on and one oblique photo of the same subject per grade, was validated by nine independent judges in 99 subjects with a repetition two weeks later. Inter-observer reliability and intra-observer reproducibility were calculated using Kappa coefficients. Validation of the scale showed a high level of inter-observer reliability between the consensus and independent panels, and intra-observer reproducibility between the two evaluations performed by the independent judges. In conclusion, this nine-point facial aging scale is a reliable tool for clinical evaluations of skin damage in Indian women, suitable for use in clinical and epidemiological studies.

Why women use makeup: implication of psychological traits in makeup functions.

Makeup acts and stimulates three of our senses: touch (which encompasses all sensations from the body surface), smell (fragrance), and sight (the process of becoming and looking beautiful). The positive stimulation of these senses by makeup can induce sensory as well as psychological pleasure. In order to understand the relationship of women to their makeup, we interviewed different groups of women on their quality of life and makeup habits. Then, through four standard well-validated psychometric self-questionnaires, we examined the possible relation between the need to make up oneself and specific psychological features. Our first results clearly showed that makeup could support two opposite "up" functions, i.e., "camouflage" vs "seduction." Concerning their psychological profiles, results showed that women of the functional class "camouflage" are more anxious, defensive, and emotionally unstable compared to those of the functional class "seduction," who appear to be more sociable, assertive, and extroverted. Further analyses revealed a division of the two classes into subclasses of volunteers with opposed personality and psychological profiles. This new classification allowed us to define more precisely the relations existing within the subjective experience of women during the makeup process. In conclusion, our study revealed that beyond the simple application of colorful products on the face, makeup has two major functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women.

In vivo skin antioxidant effect of a new combination based on a specific Vitis vinifera shoot extract and a biotechnological extract.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Ultraviolet (UV) light produces reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin, which accelerate aging by damaging DNA, proteins, lipids, and other cellular constituents. The aims of this study were to 1) evaluate the antioxidant properties of a Vitis vinifera shoot extract on cultured normal human keratinocytes, 2) compare the in vivo antioxidant of this extract in combination with a biotechnological extract (Ronacare Hydroine), and 3) evaluate the efficacy on photoaging skin of a serum based on a combination (Vitis vinifera shoot extract in hydroglycolic solution, or Sarmentine, and Ronacare Hydroine) after a 4-week application, and to quantify the additional improvement given by applying a cream with the serum. METHODS/STUDY DESIGN: An in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the antioxidant properties of Vitis vinifera shoot extract added to cultured normal human keratinocytes. A fluorescent probe was used to quantify cytoplasmic endogenous species formed in response to oxidative stress induced by H2O2. The antioxidant activity of Vitis vinifera shoot extract was compared to that of a solvent control and 2 positive controls, vitamin E and vitamin C. In the first in vivo study, 2 test products were included in a comparative, randomized, single-blind trial in which 27 subjects acted as their own (untreated) controls. Products were applied 4 times to randomized areas of the inner surface of the forearm for one day. The following day, treated and untreated (control) areas of stratum corneum were sampled for fluorimetric analysis. A decrease in fluorescence compared with untreated control reflected a decrease in the level of ROS, in which case the product had a scavenging effect. The 2 products contained a combination of Sarmentine and Ronacare Hydroine, whose antioxidant properties were under investigation. Other products were known antioxidants. In the second in vivo study, 60 female subjects applied either serum or serum plus cream twice daily for 28 days for clinical evaluation. Overall improvement was rated on a quartile scale (0%-25%, 26%-50%, 51%-75%, 76%-100%) and changes in firmness, radiant glow, evenness, smoothness, wrinkles, fine lines, hydration, texture, and softness were rated on a negative to positive scale (-5=worse to +5=greatly improved). RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Vitis vinifera shoot extract appears to have significantly stronger in vitro antioxidant capacity than vitamin C or vitamin E. In the same vehicle (placebo emulsion), ascorbic acid (0.5%), Sarmentine (1%), and the Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) combination had a significant in vivo antioxidant effect versus a nontreated area. The combination Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) showed a higher efficacy than Sarmentine alone. The dermatologic evaluation showed that a 4-week twice-daily application of a serum containing the combination improved the main clinical signs of photoaged skin. The addition of the cream with the serum appears to enhance the serum-induced improvement of most of the skin characteristics.

Differential expression of cathepsins K, S and V between young and aged Caucasian women skin epidermis.

Cutaneous aging translates drastic structural and functional alterations in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Multiple mechanisms are involved, including changes in protease levels. We investigated the age-related protein expression and activity of cysteine cathepsins and the expression of two endogenous protein inhibitors in young and aged Caucasian women skin epidermis. Immunofluorescence studies indicate that the expression of cathepsins K, S and V, as well as cystatins A and M/E within keratinocytes is reduced in photoprotected skin of aged women. Furthermore, the overall endopeptidase activity of cysteine cathepsins in epidermis lysates decreased with age. Albeit dermal elastic fiber and laminin expression is reduced in aged skin, staining of nidogen-1, a key protein in BM assembly that is sensitive to proteolysis by cysteine, metallo- and serine proteases, has a similar pattern in both young and aged skin. Since cathepsins contribute to the hydrolysis and turnover of ECM/basement membrane components, the abnormal protein degradation and deposition during aging process may be related in part to a decline of lysosomal/endosomal cathepsin K, S and V activity.