RESUMO
Hair is an advantageous biological sample due to its recordable, collectable, and storable nature. Hair's primary components are keratin and keratin-associated proteins. Owing to its abundance of cystine, keratin possesses impressive mechanical strength and chemical stability, formed by creating disulfide bonds as crosslinks within the protein peptide chain. Furthermore, keratin is cross-linked with keratin-associated proteins to create a complex network structure that provides the hair with strength and rigidity. Protein extraction serves as the foundation for hair analysis research. Bleaching hair causes damage to the structure between keratin and keratin-associated proteins, resulting in texture issues and hair breakage. This article outlines various physical treatment methods and lysate analysis that enhance the efficiency of hair protein extraction. The PLEE method achieves a three-fold increase in hair protein extraction efficiency when using a lysis solution containing SDS and combining high temperatures with intense shaking, compared to previous methods found in literature. We utilized the PLEE method to extract hair from both normal and damaged groups. Normal samples identified 156-157 proteins, including 51 keratin and keratin-associated proteins. The damaged group consisted of 155-158 identified proteins, of which 48-50 were keratin and keratin-associated proteins. Bleaching did not cause any notable difference in the protein identification of hair. However, it did reduce coverage of keratin and keratin-associated proteins significantly. Our hair protein extraction method provides extensive coverage of the hair proteome. Our findings indicate that bleaching damage results in subpar hair quality due to reduced coverage of protein primary sequences in keratin and keratin-associated proteins.
RESUMO
OBJECTIVE: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair. METHODS: Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulphate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Fibre damage was assessed using transmission electron microscopy, amino acid analysis and redox proteomics. RESULTS: Protein loss through leaching increased with bleaching severity. Leached proteins were not limited to the cuticle, but also included cortical intermediate filaments and matrix keratin-associated proteins. The leached proteins were progressively oxidized as bleaching severity increased. Bleached fibres demonstrated substantial damage to the cuticle layers and to the cortex. Extensive melanin granule degradation was present after the mildest bleach treatment. Protein oxidation in bleached fibres was principally in cortical intermediate filaments - the most abundant hair proteins - and targeted the sulphur-containing amino acids, particularly the conversion of cystine disulphide bonds to cysteic acid. CONCLUSION: Peroxide chemical treatments quickly access the cortex, causing untargeted oxidative damage across the fibre in addition to the desired loss of melanin. Peroxide ingress is likely facilitated by the considerable structural degradation caused to the cuticle layers of hair fibres. The consequences of the peroxide action within the cuticle and cortex are oxidation of the proteins, and subsequent protein loss from the fibre that correlates to bleaching severity.