Free amino acid contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species: a search for alternative natural free amino acid sources for cosmeceutical applications.

Free amino acids (FAAs), the major constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), are very important for maintaining the moisture balance of human skin and their deficiency results in dry skin conditions. There is a great interest in the identification and use of nature-based sources of these molecules for such cosmeceutical applications. The objective of the present study was, therefore, to investigate the FAA contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species; and select the best sources so as to use them for the stated purpose. About 59 different plant species and oyster mushroom were included in the study and the concentrations of 27 FAAs were analyzed. Each sample was collected, lyophilized, extracted using aqueous solvent, derivatized with Fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl chloride (Fmoc-Cl) prior to solid-phase extraction and quantified using Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Tandem Mass Spectrometric (LC-ESI-MS/MS) system. All the 27 FAAs were detected in most of the samples. The dominant FAAs that are part of the NMF were found at sufficiently high concentration in the mushroom and some of the plants. This indicates that FAAs that could be included in the preparations for the management of dry skin condition can be obtained from a single natural resource and the use of these resources for the specified purpose have both economic and therapeutic advantage in addition to fulfilling customer needs.

Delivery of small hydrophilic molecules across the stratum corneum: Identification of model systems and parameters to study topical delivery of free amino acids.

Free amino acids (FAAs) constitute the largest component (∼40 %) of the so-called natural moisturizing factors of the skin. Their level declines in dry skin conditions and one strategy to overcome this problem may involve the topical delivery of FAAs through appropriate strategy. The objective of the present study was therefore to identify alternative skin models and study the corneocyte-water partition coefficients (KCOR/W) and permeation coefficient (KP) of 18 FAAs. The KCOR/W was studied using standard protocols and the permeation studies were conducted using Franz diffusion cell. The results indicate that the FAAs have high partitioning behavior to the corneocytes. The KCOR/W values of the human COR and that of pig ear skin were better correlated with each other than that of keratin isolated from chicken feathers. The presence of lipid in the stratum corneum (SC), initial concentration of the FAAs, and permeation enhancers affect the KCOR/W. The FAAs have low permeation into the SC which suggests the need for permeation enhancers in designing dosage form containing these compounds. Even though the investigated mathematical models show good prediction of the Kp values, better prediction could be obtained by considering factors such as the possible entrapment of the FAAs by the CORs.