Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.

Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp.

OBJECTIVE: The human scalp is characterized by a moderately diverse microbial community, comprising prokaryotic (bacteria) and eukaryotic (fungi) members. Although the details are far from being fully understood, the human scalp microbiota is implicated in several scalp disorders, in particular dandruff formation. Hence, the protection of an intact and diverse scalp microbiota can be regarded as a quality criterion for hair and scalp care formulations. In this study, we investigated the influence of two commercially available, non-antimicrobial shampoo formulations on the structure of the scalp microbiota. METHODS: Scalp microbiota samples, obtained by swab sampling from two cohorts of probands (n = 25, each), were analysed before and after daily use of two different shampoo formulations for 2 weeks, respectively. A polyphasic approach was used, comprising quantitative cultivation of bacteria and fungi on selective media as well as sequencing of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA and 18S rRNA genes, respectively. RESULTS: All analyses revealed a microbiota composition typical for the human scalp. While in particular fungal germ numbers increased significantly during the treatments, overall bacterial and fungal community composition was not affected, based on alpha- and beta-diversity measures. However, we observed an increase in structural bacterial diversity with the age of the probands. CONCLUSIONS: Over an application period of 2 weeks, the investigated shampoo induced quantitative but no qualitative changes in the scalp microbial community structure of the investigated probands, suggesting no adverse but rather preserving or even stimulating effects of the underlying formulations on the scalp microbiota. Further investigation will have to clarify if this is also true for longer application periods and if the formulations might affect community functionality, for example microbial gene expression, rather than community composition.

OBJECTIF: Le cuir chevelu humain se caractérise par une communauté microbienne modérément diversifiée, comprenant des membres procaryotes (bactéries) et eucaryotes (champignons). Bien que l'on soit loin de comprendre totalement les détails, le microbiote du cuir chevelu humain est impliqué dans différents troubles du cuir chevelu, en particulier la formation de pellicules. La protection du microbiote du cuir chevelu intact et diversifié peut être considérée comme un critère de qualité pour les formulations de soins pour les cheveux et le cuir chevelu. Dans cette étude, nous avons examiné l'influence de deux formulations de shampooing non antimicrobien disponibles dans le commerce sur la structure du microbiote du cuir chevelu. MÉTHODES: Des échantillons de microbiote du cuir chevelu, obtenus par écouvillonnage dans deux cohortes de proposants (n = 25 dans chaque cohorte), ont été analysés respectivement avant et après l'utilisation quotidienne de deux formulations de shampooing pendant deux semaines. Une approche en plusieurs phases a été utilisée, dont une culture quantitative de bactéries et de champignons sur des milieux sélectifs et un séquençage respectivement des gènes de l'ARN ribosomique 16S et de l'ARN ribosomique 18S amplifiés par PCR. RÉSULTATS: Toutes les analyses ont révélé une composition du microbiote typique pour le cuir chevelu humain. Bien que le nombre de germes fongiques en particulier ait augmenté significativement pendant les traitements, la composition globale des communautés bactériennes et fongiques n'a pas été affectée, d'après les mesures de diversité alpha et bêta. Cependant, nous avons observé une augmentation de la diversité bactérienne structurelle avec l'âge des proposants. CONCLUSIONS: Sur une période d'utilisation de deux semaines, le shampooing étudié a induit des modifications quantitatives, mais pas qualitatives, de la structure des communautés microbiennes du cuir chevelu des proposants étudiés, ce qui suggère qu'il n'y a pas d'effets indésirables, mais qu'il y a des effets de préservation, voire de stimulation, des formulations sous-jacentes sur le microbiote du cuir chevelu. Des recherches supplémentaires devront clarifier si cela s'avère également pour des périodes d'utilisation plus longues et si les formulations peuvent affecter la fonctionnalité des communautés, par exemple, l'expression des gènes microbiens, plutôt que la composition des communautés.

Age-related changes in scalp biophysical parameters: A comparative analysis of the 20s and 50s age groups.

BACKGROUND: Age-related changes in scalp parameters affect hair quality and scalp condition. However, detailed data on biophysical parameters of the scalp across age groups remain scarce. We aimed to investigate the differences in scalp parameters between individuals in their 20s and 50s and analyze their sex-specific variations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two hundred participants (160 women and 40 men) were equally divided into 20s and 50s age groups. Biophysical parameters of the scalp, including elasticity, pH, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum production, desquamation, firmness, redness, and yellowness, were measured in the vertex, occipital, and temporal regions. Hair density and thickness were measured in the temporal region. The accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the skin was noninvasively measured in a subset of 60 women. RESULTS: Skin firmness and redness increased with age in women, whereas yellowness increased with age in both sexes. Sebum production and pH levels were significantly lower in the 50s age group than in the 20s age group, particularly in women. TEWL was lower in men in their 50s than in those in their 20s, particularly in the occipital region. A significant reduction in hair density was observed in the 50s age group in both sexes. AGE accumulation in the skin increased with age and was correlated with scalp skin yellowness. CONCLUSION: Age-related changes in scalp parameters have important implications for hair health and scalp condition. These findings emphasize the importance of considering age and sex when developing hair care strategies.

Special considerations in adolescents of color with acne and textured hair.

Acne is a common dermatologic condition that affects most adolescents. In adolescents of color with textured hair, it is paramount to consider how hair care practices may affect acne distribution and treatment. Dermatologists should be familiar with hair care cultural norms when treating this population.

Evaluating the Impact of Hair Care Product Exposure on Hair Follicle and Scalp Health.

Human hair follicles traverse the epidermis and dermis, and are comprised of specialised cells including dermal papilla cells (DPCs). DPCs play a critical role in the development and growth of both hair and follicle structure. While exposure of DPCs to undiluted exogenous compounds is unlikely, exposure to diluted compounds is possible should dermal penetration occur. The goal of this study was to evaluate the impact on hair and scalp health following application of a hair care product. Due to the lack of standardised and validated test systems for evaluating hair follicle health, the HairSkin® model, which uses intact human scalp samples, was adapted to evaluate hair follicle and scalp health. Similarly, the Franz diffusion cell assay and matrix-assisted laser desorption ionisation-Fourier transform ion cyclotron resonance (MALDI-FTICR) were adapted to evaluate dermal penetration. The results of this study demonstrate that application of the hair care product does not result in appreciable dermal penetration, suggesting that DPCs are unlikely to be exposed to undiluted product. Additionally, hair follicle health was not impacted following product application. While this study is exploratory, these results suggest that the combination of test systems utilised herein provides valuable insight and warrants further development and validation.

Determination of Free Histidine in Complex Hair Care Products with Minimum Sample Preparation Using Cation-Exchange Chromatography and Post Column Derivatization.

In this communication, we describe the first analytical method for the determination of free histidine in hair care products (shampoos and conditioners). Cation-exchange chromatography combined with postcolumn derivatization and fluorimetric detection enabled the accurate (recovery: 83.5-114.8%) and precise (2.4-5.6% RSD) determination of free histidine without matrix interferences at concentration levels down to 1.5 mg kg-1. Real commercially available samples were found to contain the amino acid at levels ranging between 70 and 535 mg kg-1.

A community-based study of hair care practices, scalp disorders and psychological effects on women in a Suburban town in Southwest Nigeria.

Introduction: The scalp hairs on an average African is dry with low tensile strength and a tendency to break easily. This is mostly due to poor penetration of the natural oils on the scalp and the very curly hair texture. Various techniques developed to manage African hair are associated with certain hair and scalp disorders and are sources of distress. Objectives: This was a cross-sectional survey to compare natural African hair and chemically processed (relaxed) hair to determine the effect of hair care and grooming practices on common scalp disorders and the psychological effect in Nigerian women. Subjects and Methods: Questionnaires were administered to women at the market, churches and outreaches with many women in attendance to document the hair grooming practices, common scalp symptoms and psychological effects experienced. They were also examined for the presence of seborrhoeic dermatitis and traction alopecia. Results: The study involved 452 women (62.17%) with relaxed hair and 275 women (37.83%) with natural (untreated) hair. Women with relaxed hair experienced significantly more flaking of the scalp (P = 0.046, x2 = 6.16), hair breakage (P = 0.023, x2 = 11.35) and hair loss (P = 0.020, x2 = 7.87) than those with natural hair. The most common psychological effects of hair scalp disorders in all participants were feeling of uneasiness 142 (19.5%), frustration 49 (6.7%), poor body image 40 (5.5%) and anger 38 (5.2%). Significantly more women with relaxed hair experienced moderate hair loss from traction than women with natural hair (P = 0.014, x2 = 8.52). Conclusion: Nigerian women experienced clinical and psychological distress consequent to their hair grooming practices. Individuals with relaxed hair had more physical symptoms, hair loss and psychological disturbances than those with natural hair.

Research in Brief: Survey of hair care practices in various ethnic and racial pediatric populations.

Medicated shampoos are part of the standard care of seborrheic dermatitis (SD), yet hair-washing practices can vary in frequency, which could impact treatment effectiveness and therapeutic benefit. The goal of this study is to understand common hair-washing practices in pediatric patients, with focus on Black children with SD, through online survey. Patients identifying as Black or mixed race were more likely to use medicated washes weekly or less frequently than White patients (62.5% vs. 30.8%). It is important that clinicians understand Black- and mixed-race hair care practices to provide better clinical guidance on the usage of medicated shampoos, especially for the treatment of SD.

Advances in nanotechnology-based hair care products applied to hair shaft and hair scalp disorders.

OBJECTIVE: Nanotechnology has been intensively applied to the development of novel cosmetic products for hair and scalp care during the last decades. Such a trend is corroborated by the fact that about 19% of the total nanocosmetics registered in the StatNano database are intended for hair and scalp care. Nanotechnology-enabled formulations based on nanoparticles, cyclodextrins, liposomes and nanoemulsions have emerged as novel approaches due to chemical stability and their controlled release. Regarding hair care formulations, nanocarriers can target the hair shaft, hair follicle and scalp. Therefore, they have been used to treat several hair disorders, including dandruff and other hair-damaging conditions. METHODS: This review addressed the most important nanocarriers applied to hair-related disorders improvement. Furthermore, the application for hair photoprotection and improvement of hair colour duration by nanotechnological formulations is also approached. Besides, we provided an overview of the current scenario of available nano-based commercial hair products and novel patented inventions. RESULTS: From the patent search, the Patent Cooperation Treaty was pointed as the most important depositing agency while the United States of America has been the most depositing country. On the contrary, according to the StatNano database, Brazil stands out in the hair care worldwide market, and it is also the main producer of hair cosmetics based on nanotechnology. CONCLUSION: As nano-based products offer several advantages over conventional cosmetics, it is expected that in future, there will be more research on nanocarriers applied to hair disorders, as well as commercial products and patent applications.

Au cours des dernières décennies, les nanotechnologies ont été intensivement appliquées au développement de nouveaux produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Cette tendance est corroborée par le fait qu'environ 19% du nombre total de nano-cosmétiques enregistrés dans la base de données StatNano sont destinés à la fois aux soins des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Les formulations basées sur les nanoparticules, les cyclodextrines, les liposomes et les nano-émulsions sont devenues de nouvelles approches grâce à l'amélioration de la stabilité chimique des médicaments et des ingrédients actifs cosmétiques et à leur libération contrôlée. En ce qui concerne les formulations de soins capillaires, les nanocarriers peuvent cibler le follicule pileux, la tige des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Par conséquent, ils ont été utilisés pour traiter plusieurs troubles capillaires, notamment les pellicules et d'autres affections capillaires. Dans cette revue, les nano-carriers les plus importants appliqués à l'amélioration des troubles liés aux cheveux ont été abordés. L'application pour la photoprotection des cheveux et l'amélioration de la durée de la couleur des cheveux par des formulations nanotechnologiques est également abordée. En outre, nous fournissons un aperçu du scénario actuel des produits capillaires commerciaux à base des nanotechnologies disponibles et des nouvelles inventions brevetées. D'après la recherche de brevets, le Traité de coopération en matière de brevets a été désigné comme l'agence de dépôt la plus importante, tandis que les États-Unis d'Amérique ont été le pays le plus déposant. Diversement, le Brésil se distingue sur le marché mondial des soins capillaires et il est aussi le principal producteur de cosmétiques capillaires basés sur les nanotechnologies. Par conséquent, comme les produits à base de nanotechnologies offrent plusieurs avantages par rapport aux cosmétiques conventionnels, on s'attend à ce que les recherches sur les nano-carriers appliqués aux troubles capillaires se multiplient à l'avenir, de même que les produits commerciaux et les demandes de brevets.

Cross-Sectional Study of Trichoscopy Features, Prevalence, Types of Hair Loss and Hair Care Practices at a Lagos Urban Market.

BACKGROUND: Hair loss studies have mostly been clinical with no trichoscopy features of the hair loss documented in Nigeria. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to determine the community prevalence, types of hair loss, trichoschopy features and the risk factors for the observed hair loss types. METHODS: This was a cross-sectional descriptive study of traders (Fitz Patrick's skin types V-VI) at an urban market. The traders were clinically evaluated for hair loss. Sociodemographic, clinical and trichoscopy data were recorded using a study questionnaire. Data was analyzed using SPSS version 22.0. Statistics such as means, medians, frequencies, t-test and chi-square test were presented. Levels of significance of all tests was set at, P<0.05%. RESULTS: A total of 307 participants (32.6% male and 67.4% female) with a mean age of 42.7±12.8 years were studied. The prevalence of hair loss was 68.7% (51% in males and 77.3% in females) and the mean age of those with hair loss was 44.8±12.3 years. The pattern of hair loss was patterned, diffuse and localized in 94.3%, 3.8% and 1.9% respectively. The main types of hair loss were androgenetic alopecia (26.9%) and traction alopecia (71.7%). The prevalent hair practices were; braids and weave-on (extensions) in 78.2%, turban-like head gear in 76.9%, and chemical relaxers in 73.8%. Trichoscopy features characteristic of the observed hair loss types were documented. CONCLUSION: Hair loss is common in the community. The common hair care practices and increasing age could be contributors to hair loss.

CONTEXTE: Les études sur la perte de cheveux ont surtout été cliniques et aucune caractéristique trichoscopique de la perte de cheveux n'a été documentée au Nigeria. OBJECTIF: L'objectif de cette étude était de déterminer la prévalence communautaire, les types de perte de cheveux, les caractéristiques de la trichoscopie et les facteurs de risque pour les types de perte de cheveux observés. MÉTHODES: Il s'agissait d'une étude descriptive transversale de commerçants (types de peau V-VI de Fitz Patrick) sur un marché urbain. Les commerçants ont été évalués cliniquement pour la perte de cheveux. Les données sociodémographiques, cliniques et trichoscopiques ont été enregistrées à l'aide d'un questionnaire d'étude. Les données ont été analysées à l'aide de SPSS version 22.0. Des statistiques telles que les moyennes, les médianes, les fréquences, le test t et le test du chi-deux ont été présentées. Le niveau de signification de tous les tests a été fixé à P<0,05%. RÉSULTATS: Un total de 307 participants (32,6% d'hommes et 67,4% de femmes) avec un âge moyen de 42,7±12,8 ans ont été étudiés. La prévalence de la perte de cheveux était de 68,7 % (51 % chez les hommes et 77,3 % chez les femmes) et l'âge moyen des personnes présentant une perte de cheveux était de 44,8±12,3 ans. La perte de cheveux était structurée, diffuse et localisée dans 94,3 %, 3,8 % et 1,9 % des cas respectivement. Les principaux types de perte de cheveux étaient l'alopécie androgénétique (26,9 %) et l'alopécie de traction (71,7 %). Les pratiques capillaires prédominantes étaient les suivantes : tresses et tissage (extensions) dans 78,2 % des cas, coiffure en turban dans 76,9 % des cas et défrisage chimique dans 73,8 % des cas. Les traits trichoscopiques caractéristiques des types de perte de cheveux observés ont été documentés. CONCLUSION: La perte de cheveux est fréquente dans la communauté. Les pratiques courantes de soins capillaires et l'âge croissant pourraient contribuer à cette perte de cheveux. Mots clés: Trichoscopie, Perte de cheveux, Pratique des soins capillaires, Communauté, Africaine, Prévalence.

Marginal Traction Alopecia: Hair Care Practices, Severity Score and Trichoscopic Features in Lagos, Nigeria.

BACKGROUND: Marginal traction alopecia (MTA) is commonly observed in adult females. Studies of prevalence, severity, trichoscopy and severity scoring are few. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to determine the community prevalence, pattern, severity score and trichoscopy features of MTA amongst adult Nigerian females. Patient and method: This was a cross-sectional descriptive study of a cohort of 207 adult females in a community in Lagos, Nigeria. The participants were clinically evaluated for MTA. Sociodemographic, clinical and trichoscopy data was documented. Severity score was documented using the MTA severity score. Data was analyzed using SPSS version 22. RESULTS: The mean age of participants was 43±12.8 years and the prevalence of MTA was 76.3%. Marginal traction alopecia was frontoccipital in 65.2%. The MTA score was 1-3 in 22.2%, 4-6 in 29.7% and ≥6 in 48.1%. Fringe sign was observed in 30.4%, folliculitis in 9.5% and 13.9% had tight weaves. Trichoscopic features included preserved honeycomb pigment, preserved white dot architecture, varying hair length and single hairs from hair follicles. CONCLUSION: Marginal traction alopecia is common in Nigerian women. It is mostly severe, severity is not significantly associated with haircare practices and it is represented by common trichoscopy features. Appropriate awareness and education of females on hair styles can mitigate this hair loss.

CONTEXTE: L'alopécie de traction marginale (ATM) est couramment observée chez les femmes adultes. Les études de la prévalence, de la gravité, de la trichoscopie et de la notation de la gravité sont peu nombreuses. OBJECTIF: L'objectif de cette étude était de déterminer la prévalence, le modèle, le score de gravité et le score de gravité de la communautaire, le modèle, le score de gravité et les caractéristiques trichoscopiques de l'ATM chez les femmes adultes nigérianes. PATIENTE ET MÉTHODE: Il s'agissait d'une étude descriptive transversale d'une cohorte de 207 femmes adultes dans une communauté de Lagos, au Nigeria. Les participantes ont été évaluées cliniquement pour l'HTA. Les données socio-démographiques, cliniques et trichoscopiques ont été documentées. Le score de sévérité a été documenté en utilisant le score de gravité de l'ATM. Les données ont été analysées en utilisant. RÉSULTATS: L'âge moyen des participants était de 43±12,8 ans et la prévalence de l'ATM était de 76,3 % prévalence de l'AEM était de 76,3%. L'alopécie marginale de traction était frontoccipital dans 65,2 % des cas. Le score de l'ATM était de 1-3 dans 22,2%, 4-6 dans 29,7%. et ≥6 dans 48,1 %. Le signe de la frange a été observé dans 30,4%, la folliculite dans 9,5 % et 13,9 % présentaient des tissages serrés. Les caractéristiques trichoscopiques comprenaient pigment en nid d'abeille préservé, architecture de points blancs préservée, une longueur de cheveux variable et des poils isolés des follicules pileux. CONCLUSION: L'alopécie marginale de traction est fréquente chez les femmes nigérianes. Elle est le plus souvent sévère, sa sévérité n'est pas significativement associée aux pratiques de soins capillaires et elle est représentée par des caractéristiques trichoscopiques communes.Une sensibilisation et une éducation appropriées des femmes en matière de coiffure peuvent atténuer cette perte de cheveux. MOTS CLÉS: Alopécie marginale de traction, Pratiques de soins capillaires, Caractéristiques trichoscopiques, Évaluation de la gravité de l'alopécie de traction marginale.

A Curly Q: Is Frizz a Matter of Friction?

The oft discussed and fretted over environmental influences on hair have led to a popular consensus which suggests that elevated temperature and humidity lead to frizzier, wilder hair. However, few attempts at actually quantifying these effects have been made. Although frizziness is usually perceived visually, here the influence of variations in temperature and humidity on the tactile perception and friction of curly and straight hair were investigated. It is shown that changes in humidity may disproportionately affect perceived frizziness of curly hair by touch due to concurrent changes in the tactile friction.

Hair Cosmetics for the Hair Loss Patient.

Medical professionals that treat patients with alopecia usually lack knowledge about hair cosmetics. Trichologists focus on hair cycling and growth problems and not on the hair shaft integrity. This may lead to abandon of the use of the prescribed treatment, such as topical minoxidil or to inadequate traumatic grooming habits that may jeopardize hair follicle health. Shampoos, hair dyes, and hair-straightening products may alter hair fiber structure, remove lipids, and elude protein. Hair procedures such as hair dying and straightening have side effects and health concerns, especially for pregnant women or sensitive hair and scalp patients. Hair breakage, follicle traction, frizz, contact dermatitis, and mutagenicity are possible side effects of hair cosmetics misuse. The proper use of hair care products may help to increase patients' adherence to alopecia treatments and avoid health problems related to inadequate application of hair cosmetics and procedures.

Determination of panthenol enantiomers in cosmetic preparations using an achiral-chiral-coupled column HPLC system.

A new high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for separation and determination of panthenol enantiomers in hair care products was developed. Two types of detectors, low-wavelength ultraviolet (UV) and polarimetric, were used. Optimized conditions consisted of coupled achiral, amino type, and chiral, amylose tris(3,5-dimethylphenylcarbamate), stationary phases, mixture of n-hexane/ethanol (60:40, v/v) as mobile phase under isocratic conditions and flow rate 0.8 cm3 min-1 . The effect of column temperature on retention and resolution of enantiomers was studied. The analysis runtime was 10 minutes, and the average retention times for d- and l-panthenol were 7.10 ±0.1 minutes and 8.21 ±0.2 minutes, respectively. The resolution of enantiomers on coupled achiral-chiral columns was Rs = 2.7. The solid-phase extraction method was employed for extraction and purification of analytes. The validated method was selective, accurate, and linear (R2 > .998) over the concentration range of 0.001 to 1.0 mg cm-3 for both enantiomeric forms. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantitation (LOQ) of each enantiomer were 0.3 and 1.0 µg cm-3 , respectively. The results demonstrated the occurrence of d-panthenol in hair care products.

Rheological fingerprinting as an effective tool to guide development of personal care formulations.

OBJECTIVE: Conventional rheological techniques in the linear viscoelastic region provide insights about the spatial configuration of the microstructural components of personal care formulations in their 'at-rest' state. However, they fail to describe the textural experience associated with large and fast deformations during daily consumer application. In this study we present a non-conventional rheological technique-large amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS)-for probing the transformation of a material during its application. This technique is proposed a practical tool for formulators in their efforts to design products with desired textural attributes. METHODS: A non-linear rheological technique termed LAOS was utilized to capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots (stress vs. strain or strain rate) provide a fingerprint of the formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry, molecular properties, colloidal parameters and processing conditions. RESULTS: In this study, we showcased several approaches for modifying the texture of personal care formulations and show the influence of various parameters on the characteristics of the Lissajous curves and their relation to sensorial perception. This fingerprinting technique shows that increasing the molecular weight or hydrophobic modification boosts the elasticity and thickening efficiency of a given polymer. Differences in the chemistry of rheological ingredients also influence the characteristic Lissajous fingerprint. In high concentration surfactant systems, which tend to form worm-like micelles, their unique Lissajous fingerprints indicate structure rebuild because of fast kinetics at large but slow deformations. Analysis of lamellar gel-based hair conditioner formulations demonstrates the unique high yield stress of these types of materials, accompanied by the fast breakdown transition from a solid to viscous structure because of their crystalline lamellar gel structure. CONCLUSION: The LAOS technique presented in this article is intended to better capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots-generated from the LAOS experimental data-provide a fingerprint of the tested formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry and molecular weight of the thickener, pH of the formula medium and influence of other ingredients in the formula (surfactants, emulsifiers, etc.).

OBJECTIF: Les techniques rhéologiques conventionnelles dans la région viscoélastique linéaire fournissent des informations sur la configuration spatiale des composants microstructurels des formulations de produits cosmétiques dans leur état « au repos ¼. Mais elles ne décrivent pas l'expérience de texture associée à des déformations importantes et rapides lors de l'application quotidienne par les consommateurs. Dans cette étude, nous présentons une technique rhéologique non conventionnelle, le cisaillement oscillatoire à grande amplitude (Large Amplitude Oscillatory Shear, LAOS), pour examiner la transformation d'un matériau pendant son application. Cette technique est proposée comme outil pratique pour aider les formulateurs dans leurs efforts pour concevoir des produits qui ont les attributs texturaux désirés. MÉTHODES: Une technique rhéologique non linéaire appelée LAOS a été utilisée pour capturer le style textural perçu par les consommateurs. Les courbes de Lissajous (stress vs contrainte ou taux de déformation) fournissent une empreinte de la formule et sont utilisées pour analyser le comportement épaississant et surveiller l'influence de divers paramètres, tels que les propriétés moléculaires et chimiques, les paramètres colloïdaux et les conditions de traitement. RÉSULTATS: Dans cette étude, nous avons présenté plusieurs approches pour modifier la texture des formulations cosmétiques et montrer l'influence de divers paramètres sur les caractéristiques des courbes de Lissajous et leur relation avec la perception sensorielle. Cette technique d'empreintes montre que l'augmentation du poids moléculaire ou la modification hydrophobe stimule l'élasticité et l'épaississement d'un polymère donné. Les différences dans la chimie des ingrédients rhéologiques influencent également l'empreinte caractéristique de Lissajous. Dans les systèmes de tensioactifs à haute concentration, qui ont tendance à former des micelles semblables à des vers, leurs empreintes Lissajous uniques indiquent une reconstruction de la structure à cause de cinétiques rapides dans leur ensemble mais des déformations lentes. L'analyse des des formulations lamellaires d'après-shampooing à base de gel démontre le stress unique à haut rendement de ces types de matériaux, accompagnés par la transition de répartition rapide d'une structure solide à visqueuse à cause de leur structure lamellaire cristalline. CONCLUSION: La technique LAOS présentée dans cet article vise à mieux appréhender le style de texture perçu par les consommateurs. Les graphiques de Lissajous, générées à partir de données LAOS expérimentales, fournissent une empreinte de la formule testée et sont utilisés pour analyser le mécanisme épaississant et surveiller l'influence de divers paramètres, tels que la chimie et le poids moléculaire de l'épaississant, le Ph moyen et l'influence des autres ingrédients (tensioactifs, émulsifiants, etc.) dans la formule.

Nutricosmetics: A brief overview.

The nutricosmetics are products and ingredients that act as nutritional supplements to care skin, nails, and hair natural beauty. They work from the inside to promote beauty from within. Nutricosmetic is the latest trend in the beauty industry. This tendency rapidly gained many followers because it fits with the modern culture: Today, consumers are very careful with the food that they introduce into their body, and there is also an increasing demand for natural products able to enhance one's health and beauty without side effects and significant traction before use. However, many nutricosmetic products are considered effective due to the historical use and word of mouth. Comprehensive analysis of the global nutricosmetics market is conducted considering form, end-user applications, and some product components such as collagen, peptides, proteins, vitamins, carotenes, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acid are reported. Plant extract ingredients used in nutricosmetic are also described.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application.

OBJECTIVE: In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. METHODS: To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and ß-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. RESULTS: We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes ß-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. CONCLUSION: From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and ß-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

OBJECTIF: Dans l'évaluation des produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux, une méthode communément utilisée consiste à évaluer l'aspect des cheveux afin de déterminer l'effet d'un principe actif sur l'état final des cheveux via l'appréciation visuelle. Bien que d'autres techniques ont été proposées pour une analyse directe de la fibre capillaire, elles ne donnent que des informations de surface ou de structure, sans aucune information moléculaire précise. Une approche différente par la spectroscopie confocale Raman a été proposée pour le suivi in situ du changement moléculaire de la kératine directement dans les fibres de cheveux humains. Il présente une grande spécificité moléculaire, détecter les interactions chimiques entre les molécules et peut fournir des informations moléculaires à différents niveaux de profondeur du cortex et de la cuticule. MÉTHODES: Afin d'évaluer le potentiel de la spectroscopie Raman confocale pour tester l'efficacité des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine, nous avons entrepris une étude pilote sur l'efficacité d'un shampooing lissant sur cheveux naturels, en analysant les marqueurs spectraux de l'hélice α et du feuillet ß dans la bande Amide I et les marqueurs spectraux spécifiques au contenu en sulfure-cystine. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons confirmé qu'un actif s'avérant efficace sur un gold standard diminue la conformation de la kératine en hélice α et favorise la conformation de la kératine en feuillet ß dans les fibres des cheveux. Nous avons également montré que le traitement avec l'actif efficace diminue l'intensité des bandes de cystéine réticulant sous forme de ponts disulfures covalents (S - S à 510 cm-1). Ces données confirment que l'actif efficace agit également sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. CONCLUSION: À partir de ces expériences, nous avons conclu que l'actif efficace a un effet lissant sur les fibres du cheveu humain en agissant sur la conformation hélice α et feuillet ß de la kératine et sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. Sur la base de ces résultats, la spectroscopie confocale Raman peut être considérée comme une technique puissante pour étudier l'influence des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine dans les fibres de cheveux. De plus, cette technique analytique a l'avantage d'être non destructive et ne nécessite pas de marquage; de plus, elle ne nécessite pas d'extraction ou de purification des échantillons et peut être appliquée en routine dans les laboratoires de cosmétiques.

Late-onset robust curly hair growth in a patient with BRAF-mutated metastatic melanoma responding to dabrafenib.

Development of curly hair has been infrequently described in association with BRAF inhibitors in clinical trials, and usually affects patients between 6 and 24 weeks of therapy. The curly hair is typically preceded by initial hair thinning or even diffuse alopecia. We report herein an occurrence of late-onset robust curly head hair growth in a patient with metastatic melanoma responding well to dabrafenib, without being preceded by hair thinning. The curly hair in our patient developed at 11 months of therapy with dabrafenib. Occurrence of late-onset, robust curly hair might represent a prognostic marker of clinical response to these agents. If our hypothesis is correct, we expect more reports of late-onset, robust curly hair growth with the use of this class of pharmaceuticals. Moreover, newer generations of BRAF inhibitors may expand the armory of hair care products in the future.

Hair-care practices in African American women: potential for allergic contact dermatitis.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction that occurs when the skin is re-exposed to a substance to which it was previously sensitized. One significant source of exposure to sensitizing chemicals is through personal grooming and beauty products. While the role of cosmetics and hair-care products in the development of ACD is well-documented, there has been very little literature that specifically addresses the role of hair-care practices of patients with tightly curled hair, such as in patients of African descent, in the development of ACD in this population. This review provides an integrated summary of the hair-care practices of female African American patients and the potential for exposure to sensitizing agents at each stage. This review will also discuss the challenges faced in recognizing and assessing ACD in these patients.