L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits.

OBJECTIVE: Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. METHODS: In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. RESULTS: In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

OBJECTIF: La peau du visage est sujet à des changements majeurs structuraux et fonctionnels dus à des facteurs intrinsèques et extrinsèques. Dans cette étude, nous montrons que l'acide aminé non-protéinogène L-4-thiazolylalanine (L4, Protinol) est une alternative intéressante pour une application topique. MÉTHODES: Des modèles 3D de peaux ont été utilisés pour mesurer les changements d'expressions géniques et protéiques de marqueurs clés du derme à partir d'échantillons traités avec L4 comparés à une condition contrôle. In vivo, après un traitement L4, le renouvellement cutané a été mesuré chez les volontaires et comparé à un traitement au rétinol. Des biopsies de peaux (n = 30) traitées soit à L4 soit au rétinol ont été isolées afin d'évaluer les changements au niveau du derme et de l'épiderme. Pour finir, une étude clinique (n = 28) a été menée pour évaluer l'efficacité de L4 par rapport à une formulation de base en utilisant différents paramètres de vieillissement au sein d'une population de femmes de 46 à 66 ans présentant des rides légères à modérées. RÉSULTATS: Les études in vitro sur tissues 3D ont montré des changements dans la matrice du derme avec une augmentation de la production d'acide hyaluronique et de procollagène I et une diminution d'expression de gènes pro-inflammatoires. Les études menées in vivo sur biopsies ont démontré que L4 et rétinol augmentaient indépendamment tous deux significativement l'épaisseur de l'épiderme et le remodelage du collagène par rapport à leur base seule. Pour finir, une peau plus ferme et plus lisse a été mesurée cliniquement après 28 jours de traitement L4 par rapport au véhicule et cela sans effets indésirables tels que rougeur et irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 est un ingrédient, innovant et multifonctionnel. Il offre une sérieuse alternative aux technologies actuellement disponibles dans les traitements contre le vieillissement de la peau ou le photodommage.

Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach.

OBJECTIVE: Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. METHODS: The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. RESULTS: In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. CONCLUSION: These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing.

OBJECTIF: le vieillissement de la peau est un processus multifactoriel impliquant la formation de dérivés réactifs de l'oxygène, une inflammation consécutive qui entraîne une viabilité réduite des cellules du derme et de l'épiderme, et endommage la matrice extracellulaire. Pour être efficaces, les traitements dermocosmétiques devraient dans l'idéal traiter ces caractéristiques selon une approche holistique. Ici, nous avons déterminé le profil d'activité correspondant du bakuchiol, un méroterpène d'origine végétale, dans une série d'études in vitro, ex vivo et in vivo, et l'avons comparé au rétinol, qui est aujourd'hui considéré comme la référence parmi les cosmétiques anti-âge topiques. MÉTHODES: la capacité antioxydante et la puissance du bakuchiol et du rétinol ont été analysées en mesurant la réduction du 2,2-diphényl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) selon sa décroissance par absorption et à l'aide d'une spectroscopie par résonance magnétique électronique, respectivement. Les effets sur la prostaglandine E2 (PGE2), le facteur inhibiteur de la migration (FIM) des macrophages, le facteur de croissance des fibroblastes 7 (FGF7), le collagène de type I et VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), les taux de fibronectine (FN), ainsi que la métabolisation du tétrazolium 1 soluble dans l'eau (WST-1) ont été déterminés dans des fibroblastes dermiques humains. La régénération épidermique a été évaluée à l'aide d'un modèle de cicatrisation des plaies in vitro. Les taux de fibronectine ont été analysés ex vivo après un traitement avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol, du rétinol ou un excipient à l'aide d'un liquide d'aspiration sous forme de vésicules. L'amélioration de l'état de la peau a été déterminée in vivo dans une étude de comparaison en hémiface après l'application de bakuchiol ou d'un excipient. RÉSULTATS: Contrairement au rétinol, le bakuchiol s'est avéré présenter une efficacité antioxydante élevée. Les taux de PGE2 et de FIM ont significativement diminué avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol s'est accompagnée d'une augmentation significative des taux de protéine FGF7, mais pas celle de rétinol. Les taux de métabolisation du WST-1 ont augmenté de façon significative avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol et de rétinol a entraîné une augmentation significative des taux de protéines COL1A1, COL7A1 et fibronectine. Les plaies supplémentées en bakuchiol, mais pas en rétinol, ont montré une augmentation significative de la régénération épidermique. Sur le plan clinique, les zones traitées avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol ont montré une augmentation statistiquement significative des taux de fibronectine après une application de 4 semaines par rapport aux zones non traitées et aux zones traitées avec un excipient. CONCLUSION: ces données fournissent des preuves de l'efficacité multidirectionnelle du bakuchiol contre les caractéristiques cellulaires du vieillissement de la peau. Son profil d'activité partage certaines caractéristiques communes avec le rétinol, mais démontre plusieurs effets biopositifs jusqu'alors inconnus dans nos études : la stimulation de la fibronectine, composante essentielle de la matrice extracellulaire, et une régénération épidermique et une cicatrisation accélérée des plaies.

Role of pH in skin cleansing.

BACKGROUND: The importance of maintaining the acid-mantle of human stratum corneum to maintain its healthy barrier and skin's biological functions such as desquamation and lipid biosynthesis is well recognized in the literature. An outcome of this has been an increase in the number of skincare products formulated at or near the skin pH with an implication that a product formulated at skin pH will be good for skin. Such an assumption often does not take into account the specific interactions of ingredients in the product with the stratum corneum under skin pH conditions. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this research was to determine whether a skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as "skin pH" is milder to skin. METHODS: A well established Forearm Controlled Application Test (FCAT) protocol was used in clinical studies to compare "skin pH" cleansing systems with neutral pH cleansing systems. Specifically, certain commercially available "skin pH" cleansing bars were compared with a neutral pH syndet bar in two separate FCAT studies. Since these bars differed in their surfactant composition, in a separate FCAT study, two identical prototype bar formulations differed only in their pH were compared. Additionally, two body wash liquid prototypes, identical in composition but differing only in their pH were also compared in another FCAT study. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. The results are explained in terms of the increased electrostatic interaction of anionic surfactants with stratum corneum under low pH conditions compared to neutral pH conditions. CONCLUSION: Skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. Any skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as that of "skin pH" does not guarantee that it will be good for skin. The mildness of a cleanser will be determined by the interactions of its surfactants and other ingredients with stratum corneum under its formulated pH conditions.

CONTEXTE: l'importance de la protection du manteau acide de la couche cornée humaine en vue de maintenir une barrière saine et les fonctions biologiques de la peau, telles que la desquamation et la biosynthèse lipidique, est bien reconnue dans la littérature médicale. Cela a eu pour résultat l'augmentation du nombre de produits cosmétiques formulés à un pH proche ou identique au pH de la peau, impliquant ainsi qu'un produit formulé au pH de la peau sera bon pour la peau. Cette hypothèse ne tient souvent pas compte des interactions spécifiques des ingrédients du produit avec la couche cornée dans des conditions de pH de la peau. OBJECTIF: l'objectif de cette recherche était de déterminer si un nettoyant pour la peau formulé à un pH identique au « pH de la peau ¼ est, pour cette raison, plus doux pour la peau. MÉTHODES: un protocole bien établi de test d'application contrôlée sur l'avant-bras (Forearm Controlled Application Test, FCAT) a été utilisé dans des études cliniques pour comparer les nettoyants à « pH de la peau ¼ et les nettoyants à pH neutre. Plus précisément, certains savons à « pH de la peau ¼ disponibles dans le commerce ont été comparés à un savon surgras à pH neutre dans deux études distinctes faisant appel au FCAT. La composition en termes d'agents de surface de ces savons étant différente, une étude distincte faisant appel au FCAT a comparé deux prototypes de savons de composition identique mais de pH différent. De plus, deux prototypes de savon liquide pour le corps, de composition identique mais de pH différent, ont également été comparés dans une autre étude faisant appel au FCAT. RÉSULTATS: les résultats obtenus ont montré que les nettoyants pour la peau formulés uniquement ou principalement avec des agents de surface anioniques dans des conditions de pH de la peau peuvent entraîner une augmentation de la sécheresse et de l'irritation cutanées, par rapport à ceux formulés dans des conditions de pH neutre. Les résultats s'expliquent par l'interaction électrostatique accrue des agents de surface anioniques avec la couche cornée dans des conditions de pH faible par rapport aux conditions de pH neutre. CONCLUSION: les nettoyants pour la peau formulés uniquement ou principalement avec des agents de surface anioniques dans des conditions de pH de la peau peuvent entraîner une augmentation de la sécheresse et de l'irritation cutanées, par rapport à ceux formulés dans des conditions de pH neutre. La formulation d'un nettoyant pour la peau à un pH identique au « pH de la peau ¼ ne garantit pas qu'il sera bon pour la peau. La douceur d'un nettoyant sera déterminée par les interactions de ses agents de surface et de ses autres ingrédients avec la couche cornée dans ses conditions de formulation en termes de pH.

Purified Cannabidiol isolate does not inhibit active caspase-1 release in NLRP inflammasome-mediated UVB or ATP-activated keratinocytes or appear to reduce key inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiate keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Cannabidiol is a plant-derived cannabinoid that has been suggested to have several human health benefits including potential anti-inflammatory effects. It is now common to find various forms of Cannabidiol, most often referred to as CBD, in nutritional supplements and topical treatments. The mechanisms by which CBD can influence inflammatory pathways in the body, and more particularly in the skin, are presently still unclear. It is known that CBD will bind to cannabinoid receptors, CB1 and CB2, in the body and recent work has shown that in keratinocytes, CBD can regulate inflammation through transcriptional regulation involving the NFÆ™ß nuclear pathways. The fact that CBD operates through the NFÆ™ß pathways suggests that, perhaps, the molecule may influence the expression of active caspase-1 through NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. METHODS: Recently, work has published demonstrating that Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) can be activated by UVB and ATP to express active caspase-1 via NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. There was a strong interest to see whether highly purified Cannabidiol Isolate (>99% purity) might function to control release of active caspase-1 by testing of NHEKs using the previously described models. In addition, NHEKs expression of non-NLRP inflammasome-induced inflammation markers including IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2 was examined in UVB-activated NHEKs. RESULTS: It was found that purified Cannabidiol Isolate did not influence active caspase-1 release in either UVB or ATP-activated NHEKs suggesting the molecule does not influence the NLRP inflammasome pathways. In addition, it was surprisingly found that the Cannabidiol Isolate did not impact the expression of additional UVB-activated non-NLRP inflammatory markers. CONCLUSIONS: Data presented suggest that if Cannabidiol functions as an anti-inflammatory, it does so through pathways not associated with either the NLRP inflammasome-mediated expression of caspase-1 or through the more commonly known expression of interleukin or prostaglandin inflammatory pathways.

CONTEXTE: Le cannabidiol est un cannabinoïde d'origine végétale considéré comme bénéfique pour la santé humaine et présentant notamment des effets anti-inflammatoires potentiels. Il est désormais courant de trouver diverses formes de cannabidiol dans les suppléments alimentaires et les traitements topiques. Les mécanismes par lesquels le cannabidiol peut influencer les voies inflammatoires dans l'organisme, et plus particulièrement dans la peau sont actuellement encore flous. On sait que le cannabidiol se lie aux récepteurs cannabinoïdes, CB1 et CB2 dans l'organisme et des travaux récents ont montré que dans les kératinocytes, le cannabidiol peut réguler l'inflammation par régulation transcriptionnelle impliquant les voies nucléaires NF-ƙß. Le fait que le cannabidiol fonctionne par le biais des voies NF-Æ™ß laisse à penser que la molécule peut influencer l'expression de la Caspase-1 active à travers les voies médiées par l'inflammasome NLRP. MÉTHODES: Récemment, des travaux ont été publiés démontrant que les kératinocytes épidermiques humains normaux (Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes, NHEK) peuvent être activés par les UVB et l'ATP pour exprimer la Caspase-1 active à travers les voies médiées par l'inflammasome NLRP. On cherchait surtout à savoir si l'isolat de cannabidiol hautement purifié (pureté > 99 %) pouvait fonctionner pour contrôler la libération de Caspase-1 active en analysant les NHEK à l'aide des modèles décrits précédemment. En outre, l'expression des NHEK des marqueurs de l'inflammation induits par l'inflammasome non-NLRP, notamment : IL-6, IL-8 et la PGE2 ont été examinées dans des NHEK activées par les UVB. RÉSULTATS: Il a été constaté que l'isolat de cannabidiol purifié n'influençait pas la libération active de Caspase-1 dans les NHEK activées par les UVB ou l'ATP, ce qui suggère que la molécule n'influence pas les voies de l'inflammasome NLRP. En outre, il a été surprenant de constater que l'isolat de cannabidiol n'avait pas d'impact sur l'expression des marqueurs inflammatoires non-NLRP activés par les UVB supplémentaires. CONCLUSIONS: Les données présentées suggèrent que si le cannabidiol fonctionne comme un anti-inflammatoire, il le fait par des voies non associées à l'expression de la Caspase-1 médiée par l'inflammasome NLRP ou par l'expression plus connue des voies inflammatoires de l'interleukine ou de la prostaglandine.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

OBJECTIVE: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. METHOD: In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. RESULTS: We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

OBJECTIF: Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ¼. Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l'échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu'une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux. CONCLUSION: En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra-individual single-blind regression study.

Cellulite occurs in females and is a common condition of altered connective tissue matrix and increased adipogenicity with visible dimples and orange-peel appearance on the skins surface. Whilst advancements in methods continue to help our understanding, attempts to correct the appearance of cellulite topically have yielded limited success. Various kinds of non-invasive body contouring methods such as whole body vibration have been reported with demonstrable visible improvements in the cellulite condition. The aim of this study was to evaluate volume reduction and improvement of the visible appearance of cellulite as judged both objectively (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D fringe projection, macrophotography image grading) and subjectively (questionnaires) after application of a hand-held localized vibrational device over 24-weeks. The study was conducted on 40 healthy female volunteers who were instructed how to use the device on defined areas of cellulite of the outside and rear of the thighs (iliotibial band, and over biceps femoris region respectively). The initial 12 weeks of continuous massage application of the study were followed by a 12 week phase in which volunteers were split into 2 subgroups - one for assessment of regression effects and one for continuous application effects. AEVA (skin surface volume) measurements of cellulite-related dimples correlated with questionnaires and visual image evaluation scoring, in that in the iliotibial region cellulite was significantly reduced at 12 weeks. In the regression subgroup cellulite returned to initial values soon after cessation of treatment, whereas in the continuous application subgroup, cellulite remained diminished. The effect of this device to reduce cellulite as observed in this study proves that continuous use of vibrational massage is beneficial to mitigate visible signs of cellulite.

La cellulite se produit chez les femmes et est un état d'altération courant de la matrice du tissu conjonctif et d'une adipogenèse accrue se manifestant par l´apparition des fossettes visibles et un aspect de peau d'orange à la surface de la peau. Bien que les progrès des méthodes approfondissent notre compréhension, les tentatives de corrections de l'apparence de la cellulite par voie topique ont produit des résultats limités. Divers types de méthodes non invasives du body contouring, telle que la vibration entière de celui-ci, ont été rapportées, et ce, avec des améliorations visibles et démontrables de l'état de la cellulite.L'objectif de cette étude était d'évaluer la réduction du volume et l'amélioration de l'apparence visible de la cellulite, comme jugées à la fois objectivement (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D projection de franges, gradation d'images par macrophotographie) et subjectivement (questionnaires) après application localisée d'un appareil vibratoire manuel pendant 24 semaines. L'étude a été menée sur 40 femmes volontaires en bonne santé qui ont reçu des instructions à-propos de comment utiliser l'appareil sur des zones externes et bien définies de la cellulite et à l'arrière des cuisses (bande iliotibiale et sur la région du biceps fémoral respectivement). Les 12 premières semaines d'application de massage continue ont été suivies d'une phase de 12 semaines au cours de laquelle les volontaires ont été divisés en deux sous-groupes - un pour l'évaluation des effets de régression et un pour l'évaluation des effets de l'application continue.Les mesures AEVA (volume de la surface de la peau) des capitons liés à la cellulite corrélées avec les questionnaires et le score visuel d'évaluation d'images, dans laquelle, la cellulite dans la région iliotibiale, était significativement réduite à 12 semaines. Dans la régression du sous-groupe, la cellulite est revenue aux valeurs initiales peu après l'arrêt du traitement, tandis que dans le sous-groupe d'application continue, la cellulite est restée diminuée. L'effet de ce dispositif pour réduire la cellulite tel qu'observé dans cette étude prouve que l'utilisation continue du massage vibratoire est bénéfique pour mitiger les signes visibles de la cellulite.

The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence.

OBJECTIVE: As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing. METHODS: A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study. RESULTS: In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential. CONCLUSION: pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.

OBJECTIF: À mesure que la peau vieillit, une altération de la synthèse des protéines de la matrice extracellulaire (ECM) et une action accrue des enzymes dégradantes se manifestent par une atrophie, des rides et un laxisme. Il existe de plus en plus de preuves du rôle fonctionnel des peptides exogènes dans de nombreux domaines, y compris pour compenser les effets du vieillissement cutané. Ici, en utilisant une approche d'intelligence artificielle (AI), nous avons identifié le peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), un peptide naturel non modifié avec des propriétés de stimulation ECM. Les propriétés anti-âge prédites par l'IA de pep_RTE62G ont ensuite été validées par des tests cliniques in vitro, ex vivo et de validation de principe. LES MÉTHODES: Une approche d'apprentissage en profondeur a été appliquée pour déverrouiller pep_RTE62G à partir d'une source végétale, Pisum sativum (pois). Des tests de culture cellulaire de fibroblastes dermiques humains (HDF) et de kératinocytes (HaCaTs) ont ensuite été utilisés pour évaluer l'effet in vitro de pep_RTE62G. Des activités distinctes telles que la prolifération cellulaire et les propriétés de production de protéines ECM ont été déterminées par des tests ELISA. La migration cellulaire a été évaluée à l'aide d'un test de cicatrisation des plaies, tandis que la synthèse des protéines ECM et l'expression des gènes ont été analysées, respectivement, par microscopie à immunofluorescence et PCR. L'immunohistochimie des explants de peau humaine a été utilisée pour approfondir l'induction des protéines ECM par pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Enfin, l'effet clinique de pep_RTE626 a été évalué dans une étude pilote de 28 jours de validation de principe. RÉSULTATS: Les tests in vitro ont confirmé que pep_RTE62G est un ingrédient anti-âge multifonctionnel efficace. Dans HaCaTs, le traitement pep_RTE62G augmente de manière significative à la fois la prolifération et la migration cellulaire. De même, dans les HDF, pep_RTE62G a induit de manière cohérente la néosynthèse de la protéine ECM élastine et collagène, effets qui sont maintenus dans les explants de peau humaine. Enfin, dans notre étude clinique de preuve de concept, l'application de pep_RTE626 sur 28 jours a démontré un potentiel stimulant anti-rides et collagène. CONCLUSION: pep_RTE62G représente un peptide naturel, non modifié avec des propriétés anti-âge prédites par l'IA et validées expérimentalement. Nos résultats confirment l'utilité de l'IA dans la découverte de nouveaux ingrédients topiques fonctionnels.

Structure-function relationship between a natural cosmetic active ingredient and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4.

OBJECTIVE: Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. METHODS: For this purpose, natural molecules were extracted from Cocos nucifera flour. Then, efficacy of this natural extract was evaluated on keratinocyte migration in vitro. Molecules of the Cocos nucifera flour extract were then identified by UPLC-MS/MS. Molecular docking was finally conducted to investigate the potential interaction between identified molecules and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. RESULTS: The Cocos nucifera flour extract significantly increased keratinocyte migration and results demonstrated that this effect was mediated by the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. Metabolomic analysis revealed two molecules, nonioside D and butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, as significantly present in the Cocos nucifera flour extract compared to both Cocos nucifera oil and water. Finally, molecular docking revealed that butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside could interact with the extracellular domain 2 of the OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: This study highlighted for the first time a natural molecule, extracted from Cocos nucifera flour, able to interact with the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 and promote the keratinocyte migration and thus the epithelialization.

OBJECTIF: Bien que le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4 a été décrit comme étant impliqué dans le renouvellement de l'épiderme, il n'y a à ce jour aucune donnée concernant un ingrédient actif cosmétique activant ce récepteur. Le but de cette étude est donc d'identifier une molécule naturelle capable de se fixer au récepteur OR2AT4 afin de stimuler la migration des kératinocytes. METHODE: L'efficacité de cet extrait naturel sur la migration des kératinocytes in vitro a ensuite été évaluée. Les molécules présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera ont ensuite été identifées par UPLC-MS/MS. Enfin, des expérimentations de docking moléculaire ont été réalisées afin d'identifier une potentielle interaction entre les molécules précédemment identifiées et le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. RESULTATS: L'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera augmente significativement la migration des kératinocytes via l'activation du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. Les analyses métabolomiques ont révélées deux molécules, le nonioside D et le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, comme étant significativement présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera en comparaison avec l'huile et l'eau de coco. Enfin, le docking moléculaire révèle que le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, présent dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera peut interagir avec le domaine extracellulaire 2 du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: Cette étude a identifié pour la première fois une molécule naturelle, extraite de la farine de Cocos nucifera, capable d'interagir avec le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4, afin de stimuler la migration kératinocytaire et ainsi favoriser le processus de ré-épithélialisation.

Exploring some characteristics (density, anagen ratio, growth rate) of human body hairs. Variations with skin sites, gender and ethnics.

OBJECTIVE: To determine, in vivo, the density, growth rate and percentage of anagen phase follicles of body hairs present on five different skin sites (axilla, cheek, chin, leg, upper-lip) of women and men from four different ethnics (African, Caucasian, Chinese, North African). The same characteristics of terminal hairs from the nape of all subjects were recorded as references. METHODS: The photo-trichogram technique was used on all skin sites (of different sizes) at variable times (2 or 3 days) post shaving of small skin areas (a few cm2 ). Digital photographs were then analysed through a dedicated software that allows to record the density of body hairs (N cm-2 ), the % of growing hairs (Anagen phase) and their growth rates (in µm day-1 ). RESULTS: The densities of terminal hairs (on nape) found on all subjects were similar to those previously observed on much larger populations. The same ranking of a decreased density of body hairs in the five skin sites was observed in men, irrespective with ethnics. Body hairs seem homogeneously distributed among ethnics on armpit and leg with slight gender-related differences. In men, a significantly higher anagen phase percentage (> 85%) is found on terminal hairs, cheek and upper-lip region in Caucasians and North Africans, as compared to African and Chinese men. The technique used cannot precisely determine the very thin hairs present on the faces of all women. The anagen phase percentage appears higher in all women on leg and armpit. Hair body growth rates ranged from 180 to 485 µm day-1 and were found, on axilla, close to those of terminal hairs. CONCLUSION: The abundance of body hairs, in the studied skin sites, appears similar, irrespective with ethnic groups, whereas their functional characteristics (anagen ratio, growth rate) are more driven by individual/gender influences. RÉSUMÉ: Objectif Déterminer, in vivo, la densité, la vitesse de pousse et le pourcentage de follicules en phase anagènes des poils corporels présents sur 5 sites cutanés différents (l'aisselle, la joue, le menton, la jambe, la lèvre supérieure) de femmes et d'hommes issus de 4 groupes ethniques différents (Africain, Caucasien, Chinois, Nord-africain). Ces mêmes caractéristiques ont été enregistrées pour les cheveux (poils terminaux) en nuque de tous les sujets en tant que références. Méthodes la technique du photo-trichogramme a été utilisée sur tous les sites cutanés (de tailles différentes) après un temps variable (2 ou 3 jours) suivant le rasage de petites zones cutanées (quelques cm-2 ). Les photographies numériques ont été alors analysées par un logiciel spécifique qui permet d'enregistrer la densité de poils corporels (N.cm-2 ), le pourcentage de poils en phase de croissance (la phase Anagène) et leur vitesse de pousse (en µm/jour). Résultats la densité de cheveux (en nuque) trouvée sur tous les sujets était semblable à celle précédemment observée sur des populations beaucoup plus larges. On retrouve chez les hommes le même classement entre les 5 sites cutanés en termes de densité de poils corporels, indépendamment du groupe ethnique étudié. Les poils corporels semblent distribués de manière homogène parmi les membres d'un groupe ethnique sur l'aisselle et la jambe avec des légères différences liées au genre. Chez les hommes, les Caucasiens et les Nord-Africains présentent un pourcentage de poils terminaux en phase anagène significativement plus élevé (>85%) sur la joue et la région de la lèvre supérieure que les hommes Africains et Chinois. La technique utilisée ne permet pas précisément de déterminer la présence de poils très minces sur les visages des femmes. Le pourcentage de poils en phase anagène paraît plus élevé chez les femmes sur la jambe et l'aisselle. Les vitesses de pousse des poils corporels s'étendent de 180 à 485 µm/jours et se trouvent, sur les aisselles, proches de celles des cheveux. Conclusion la densité de poils corporels, dans les sites cutanés étudiés, présente une variabilité de sites indépendante du groupe ethnique considéré, tandis que leurs caractéristiques fonctionnelles (le ratio de poils en phase anagène, la vitesse de pousse) sont plus dirigées par des influences d'individu/genre.

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments.

Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents.

Visualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape-strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy measurement.

OBJECTIVE: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes and morphologies have different deposition behaviours, the measurement of the actual ZnPT deposition is critical to understand the AD performance delivered by different ZnPT shampoos. The aim of this study is to develop a robust and reliable method for visualizing the particle size and morphology of ZnPT deposited on the scalp from AD shampoos. METHODS: Hair was washed with a commercially available AD shampoo containing ZnPT and zinc carbonate (ZnCO3 ). Tape strips were applied to collect the deposited particles from the scalp after AD shampoo application and rinse-off. The scalp tape strip samples were subjected to scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDX) measurement. The morphology of the ZnPT particles was visualized by SEM imaging and identification of ZnPT particles was confirmed by EDX analysis. RESULTS: For the commercial shampoo studied it was observed that two zinc-containing particulates with different morphologies and composition remained on the scalp after shampoo application and rinse-off. As indicated by the EDX spectra, the ZnPT particles deposited onto the scalp surface had polygonal crystal structures. ZnCO3 was also deposited onto the scalp surface. This material was mainly present as aggregated particulates. CONCLUSION: An ex vivo method that combines tape strip sampling and SEM/EDX has been developed for measuring and visualizing the particle size, morphology and composition of ZnPT deposited on the scalp from AD shampoos. This ex vivo measurement method provides higher imaging resolution and more chemical specificity than reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). To the best of our knowledge, this is the first time that ZnPT particles were distinguishable from other zinc particles on the scalp. Moreover, the new method allows the microstructures of both ZnPT and other zinc particles on the scalp to be imaged.

Optimizing the spectral absorption profile of sunscreens.

OBJECTIVE: To investigate whether sunscreens provide optimal protection by exhibiting a uniform spectral absorption profile throughout the ultraviolet spectrum or by having a spectral profile in which absorption in the UVB waveband is greater than in the UVA region. METHODS: A sunscreen with a flat spectral absorption profile was compared with one of the same SPF in which the SPF to UVA protection was in the ratio of 3 : 1 in terms of protecting against erythema and chronic effects with different action spectra, as well as the total UV burden to the skin. RESULTS: A sunscreen with spectral profile in which absorption in the UVB waveband is greater than in the UVA region confers no benefit in terms of erythema (and endpoints with similar action spectra) than a sunscreen with the same SPF that exhibits uniform absorption at all wavelengths throughout the UV spectrum. More importantly, the '3 : 1 profile' offers inferior protection when endpoints with other action spectra are considered, as well as resulting in a total UV burden to the skin that is about 5 times higher than sunscreen products showing a flat spectral absorption profile. CONCLUSION: It may be tempting to believe that it is beneficial to increase the absorption of sunscreens in the UVB region relative to the UVA to reflect the fact that skin damage is associated more with UVB than UVA exposure. However, this belief is a fallacy and consumers are best served with sunscreens in which the spectral protection profile is uniform at all wavelengths throughout the UV spectrum.

Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage.

OBJECTIVE: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear whether sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study was to determine whether in vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure. METHODS: The biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed through measurements of the SC's drying stress profile and delamination energy. The drying stresses within SC were characterized from the curvature of a borosilicate glass substrate onto which SC had been adhered. Delamination energies were characterized using a double-cantilever beam (DCB) cohesion testing method. Successive DCB specimens were prepared from previously separated specimens by adhering new substrates onto each side of the already tested specimen to probe delamination energies deeper into the SC. These properties of the SC were measured before and after UV exposure, both with and without sunscreens applied, to determine the role of sunscreen in preserving the barrier function of SC. RESULTS: The drying stress in SC starts increasing sooner and rises to a higher plateau stress value after UVA exposure as compared to non-UV-exposed control specimens. For specimens that had sunscreen applied, the UVA-exposed and non-UV-exposed SC had similar drying stress profiles. Additionally, specimens exposed to UVB without protection from sunscreen exhibited significantly lower delamination energies than non-UV-exposed controls. With commercial sunscreen applied, the delamination energy for UV-exposed and non-UV-exposed tissue was consistent, even up to large doses of UVB. CONCLUSION: In vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques can readily characterize the effects of SC's exposure to UV radiation. The methods used in this study demonstrated commercial sunscreens were able to preserve the biomechanical properties of SC during UV exposure, thus indicating the barrier function of SC was also maintained.

Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate a combination of retinyl propionate and climbazole (RPC) compared to 0.1% retinol for its efficacy, tolerance and ageing appearance. METHOD: Forty-five healthy Caucasian females, ages 40-70, with moderately photodamaged facial skin, were recruited for a 16-week randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved facial study. The efficacy of RPC treatment was compared to 0.1% retinol, in the same product base formulation, with twice daily, split-face product application. Changes in overall photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and irritation were visually evaluated and measured by instrumentation. Subjective appraisal of efficacy was self-assessed from images where subjects were blinded to treatment and time point. Irritancy potential was also evaluated in a 5-day randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved patch study. RESULTS: Treatment with RPC resulted in significant (P < 0.05) improvement in ageing attributes compared to 0.1% retinol treatment, with minimal irritation. More than 50% of subjects showed improvement to deep wrinkles in the crow's feet area after 5 weeks of product application, and continued improvement to deep wrinkles was observed throughout the course of the study. Similarly, improvement was observed for the appearance of lines and wrinkles in the nasolabial fold (NLF) and for mottled hyperpigmentation. The results from subjective self-assessment confirmed in vivo clinical assessments. In a separate patch study, significantly less irritation was observed with the RPC product as compared to the 0.1% retinol control product. CONCLUSION: RPC delivered significant skin anti-ageing benefits comparable or greater than 0.1% retinol, with minimal irritation.

Climbazole boosts activity of retinoids in skin.

OBJECTIVE: To explore whether climbazole enhances retinoid-associated biological activities in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: Primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated from six to 48 h with either retinoids (retinol, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate) alone or in combination with climbazole, and then assessed for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2 (CRABP2) mRNA expression by RT-qPCR. Next, skin equivalent (SE) cultures were topically treated with retinol or retinyl propionate, with or without climbazole, and then measured for biological changes in retinoid biomarkers. Lastly, an IRB-approved clinical study was conducted on the outer forearm of 16 subjects to ascertain the effects of low (0.02%) or high (0.1%) levels of retinol, retinyl propionate (0.5%), climbazole (0.5%) or a combination of retinol (0.02%)/climbazole (0.5%). Indicators of retinoid activities were measured after 3 weeks. RESULTS: Treatment of HDFs with retinol or retinyl propionate was unaffected by climbazole but alone, resulted in a significantly (P < 0.01) higher sustained CRABP2 mRNA expression than those treated with retinyl palmitate or vehicle control. In SEs, climbazole combined with either retinol or retinyl propionate boosted retinoid related activity greater than the retinoid only, reflected by a dose-response, downregulation of loricrin (LOR) and induction of keratin 4 (KRT4) proteins. In vivo, retinol (0.1%) and retinyl propionate (0.5%) significantly increased most evaluated biomarkers, as expected. Low-dose retinol or climbazole alone did not increase these biomarkers; however, in combination, significant (P < 0.05) increases in retinoid and ageing biomarkers were detected. CONCLUSION: Climbazole boosted retinoid activity both in the SE model, after a combined topic treatment with either retinol or retinyl propionate, and in vivo, in combination with a low level of retinol. Based upon the evidence presented here, we suggest that the topical skin application of climbazole in combination with retinoids could deliver skin ageing benefits more than a less robust retinoid alone.

Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches: which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?

OBJECTIVES: This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. METHODS: Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root-tip vs. tip-root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like-dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair). RESULTS: Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions. CONCLUSION: Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.

Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus as TRPV1 receptor blockers for cosmetic applications.

OBJECTIVE: Blocking the TRPV1 receptor is an interesting approach for the treatment of sensitive skin. Here we investigated the potential of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus to act as TRPV1 receptor blockers and their potential to serve as cosmetic active ingredients. METHODS: Binding characteristics of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus were determined in competitive and functional in vitro assays to achieve IC50 values. The TRPV1 receptor was activated in vivo with capsaicin and noxious heat to investigate skin reddening, microcirculation, skin sensations and heat pain thresholds. RESULTS: Grifolin derivatives extracted from Albatrellus ovinus proved to inhibit the TRPV1 receptor in vitro and in vivo. Besides suppression of the TRPV1 receptor activity upon chemical stimulation with capsaicin, thermal activation was shown to be inhibited as well by application of cosmetic formulations containing 3% Albatrellus ovinus extract. The reduction of stinging and burning sensations as well as reduction of reddening and microcirculation upon irritation with capsaicin or thermal stress proved efficacy in vivo. CONCLUSION: Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus are able to serve as fungal-derived TRPV1 receptor blockers with capability to serve as a cosmetic active ingredient on sensitive skin.

How long does the volumizing effect of a Zingiber officinale-based lip plumper last?

OBJECTIVE: Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS: Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive techniques. The effect on vascularisation was analyzed with the Mexameter MX 16® , and the volume enhancing effect was assessed by anthropometric measures and profilometry analysis from 3D scanning electron microscope (SEM) images using Alicona's MEX software. Sixty female volunteers were recruited for the study and the measurements were taken 15, 30, 60, 90 and 120 min after product application. RESULTS: Product application produced a statistically significant increase of lip vascularisation during the first 15 min, which stayed unchanged until the 30th min, then decreased in intensity. The volumizing effect was revealed by 3D profilometry analysis only, not by anthropological measurements. The use of 3D SEM images showed an increase of 0.50 mm in the protrusion of the lip vermilion (MHP parameter) during the first 15 min from product application. CONCLUSION: Results suggest that the lip plumper temporarily enhances vasodilation and increases lip volume.

Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties.

BACKGROUND: The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES: (i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-life' conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair. METHODS: In vitro: a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions: other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches. RESULTS: This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn). CONCLUSION: This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.

Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff.

OBJECTIVE: Senkyunolide-A (SENKY) can be isolated from Apium graveolens seed oil obtained using supercritical CO2 extraction. SENKY and its parent compounds, the N-butyl phthalides, have been demonstrated to protect cells from CO poisoning, to prevent diabetes mellitus and to decrease cancer cell proliferation. This study was undertaken to evaluate in vitro and in vivo the effect of SENKY on epidermal function improvement, Malassezia effect control, scalp soothing and dandruff reduction via skin protection-related pathways. METHODS: DNA-array and proteomic studies were performed on human keratinocytes, sebocytes and skin explants to demonstrate SENKY activities. Two clinical evaluations were performed under dermatologist control on 106 volunteers, with greasy or dry scalp, experiencing dandruff, itching and redness. Volunteers tested a shampoo followed, or not, by a leave-on, containing SENKY, or their placebos. Dandruff severity and redness were scored on the scalp. Moisturization and sebum release were recorded using relevant measuring apparatus. Itching and scratching evaluations came from volunteers' self-declarations. RESULTS: DNA-array studies on keratinocytes showed a clear regulation of skin barrier functions and epidermis defence pathways. Upregulation of epidermal differentiation complex genes was observed. These preliminary observations were reinforced by immunocytochemistry and immunohistochemistry studies showing a significant increase of involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, SPRR, LC3B and ceramide 2 productions. Tight-junctions and corneodesmosomes were significantly reinforced both in keratinocyte cultures (corneodesmosin, claudin, ZO-1) and in skin explants (desmoglein). DNA-array studies also demonstrated upregulation of genes involved in detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways. Proteomic studies revealed that hBD2 production was increased in keratinocytes in contact with SENKY, whereas IL-8, PGE-2 and TLR-9 releases were repressed as well as sebocyte lipid production. Clinical evaluations confirmed that after 3 weeks, SENKY significantly reduced dandruff intensity, redness, itching and scalp histamine content compared to placebo and beginning of treatment. CONCLUSION: For the first time, SENKY has been shown to promote scalp homoeostasis by reinforcing barrier and defence functions at both gene and protein levels. It reduces irritation and redness in promoting detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways while controlling the niche of Malassezia. Applied on scalp, SENKY significantly reduces the formation of dandruff and soothes the scalp.