Clinico-epidemiological and patch test profile of patients with suspected allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics in a Tertiary Care Hospital in the Southern Philippines: A 3-year retrospective study

Background@#Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a common skin inflammatory reaction occurring at the site of challenge with a contact allergen in sensitized individuals and one of the most common causes for consultation in dermatology clinics. Patch testing is a method for detecting the causative component in suspected cases of ACD. Awareness about the causative allergen aids in reducing morbidity and can significantly minimize the impact of ACD in the affected people. @*Objectives@#The study aimed to measure the number of relevant positive reactions in patch tests being performed in our institution in patients with ACD to cosmetic products.@*Methods@#A total of 60 patients who were diagnosed with ACD to cosmetics and underwent patch testing were reviewed to identify the clinico‑epidemiological and patch test profiles of these patients.@*Results@#The study showed that the mean age of patients was 42 comprising mostly of females. Most of the patients were unemployed, office workers, and medical workers. The most common cosmetic products that caused ACD include soaps, shampoos, lotions, and moisturizers. Nickel is still the most tested positive among these patients, followed by fragrance mixes and 4‑phenylenediamine base. They are widely distributed in cosmetic products, especially in soaps and lotions. The pattern of dermatitis revealed facial dermatitis to be the most common reason for consult of these patients.@*Conclusion@#Patch test is valuable in the setting of establishing the etiology of ACD to cosmetic products.

Modelos avançados de pele humana 3D in vitro: epiderme bioimpressa e pele tricamada contendo hipoderme para avaliação de segurança e mimético de dermatite atópica nocaute de IL-13Rα2 para estudo da função barreira / Advanced in vitro 3D human skin models: bioprinted epidermis and trilayer skin containing hypodermis for safety assessment and atopic dermatitis mimetic with IL-13Rα2 knockout for barrier function study

A reconstrução de modelos avançados de pele tridimensional in vitro, que corresponda de forma mais fidedigna ao complexo microambiente da pele humana, depende da utilização de inovações tecnológicas e da adição de novos tipos celulares representativos da pele humana. Desta maneira, estes miméticos fornecem uma plataforma de alta relevância para estudos de fisiopatologia da pele, além de propiciar um sistema para a avaliação da segurança e eficácia de cosméticos e medicamentos alternativo ao uso de animais. Dessa maneira, o Capítulo I compara a performance de uma epiderme reconstruída humana (RHE) bioimpressa com a manual utilizando o teste in vitro de irritação cutânea descrito no guia OCDE número 439. Nossos resultados demonstram que ambos os modelos de pele exibiram morfologia estratificada e a função barreira epidérmica equivalente aos modelos validados. Nos testes de irritação in vitro, ambos modelos distinguiram corretamente as substâncias de referência, classificadas entre irritantes ou não-irritantes de acordo com o limiar de viabilidade de 50%. Esse resultado indica que a bioimpressora poderia ser de grande utilidade para a automação da reconstrução de modelos epidérmicos. O tecido hipodérmico possui importante papel na homeostase da pele humana. O Capítulo II aborda a reconstrução de uma pele tricamada, contendo a camada hipodérmica, além da epiderme e derme. Usando esferoides de adipócitos diferenciados in vitro, um modelo de pele tricamada em matriz de colágeno foi construído. Ao comparar este com a pele bicamada obtivemos maior expressão de loricrina e involucrina no modelo tricamada, indicando um potencial para maior função barreira, além de maior expressão de PPAR-γ. Testes de função barreira através da resistividade elétrica não demonstraram diferenças entre os modelos, mas a aplicação de SDS a 5 mg/ml por 18 horas induziu o aumento da viabilidade na pele tricamada. Além disso, após a aplicação de SDS a 2,5% para induzir uma irritação aguda, seguida de recuperação por 42h, obtivemos maior viabilidade na pele tricamada, indicando melhor recuperação pós-lesão irritativa induzida. A pele tricamada é promissora para estudos do metabolismo da pele humana e recuperação de lesões. A dermatite atópica (DA) é uma doença eczematosa de pele caracterizada por inflamação do tipo Th2 e alteração da barreira epidérmica. IL-13 e IL-4 são centrais no comprometimento da barreira epidérmica na DA. Entre os receptores de IL-13 em queratinócitos, o receptor IL-13Rα2, tem um papel controverso na alteração da barreira cutânea. O objetivo do Capítulo III foi estudar a deleção da expressão de IL-13Rα2 em RHE, que foram expostas a IL-4 e IL-13, e avaliadas conforme a expressão dos receptores e de proteínas alteradas na DA. As epidermes com knockout em IL-13Rα2 apresentaram redução da expressão de NELL2 (p<0,0021), tipicamente aumentadas na DA. Além disso, houve redução da expressão do receptor do IL-2Rγ. Assim, um possível papel de exacerbação da DA do receptor IL-13Rα2 deve ser estudado mais extensamente para ser caracterizado

The reconstruction of advanced three-dimensional in vitro skin models, which more reliably correspond to the complex microenvironment of human skin, depends on the use of technological innovations and the addition of new cell types representative of human skin.In this way, these mimetics provide a highly relevant platform for studies of skin pathophysiology, in addition to providing a system for evaluating the safety and efficacy of cosmetics and medicines alternative to animal use. In this way, Chapter I compares the performance of a bioprinted human reconstructed epidermis (RHE) with a manual one using the in vitro skin irritation test described in OECD guide number 439. Our results demonstrate that both skin models exhibited stratified morphology and the epidermal barrier function equivalent to validated models. In in vitro irritation tests, both models correctly distinguished the reference substances, classified as irritating or non-irritating according to the viability threshold of 50%. This result indicates that the bioprinter could be of great use for automating the reconstruction of epidermal models Hypodermic tissue plays an important role in the homeostasis of human skin. Chapter II addresses the reconstruction of a three-layer skin, containing the hypodermic layer, in addition to the epidermis and dermis. Using in vitro differentiated adipocyte spheroids, a trilayer skin model in collagen matrix was constructed. When comparing this with bilayer skin, we obtained greater expression of loricrin and involucrin in the trilayer model, indicating a potential for greater barrier function, in addition to greater expression of PPAR-γ . Barrier function tests using electrical resistivity did not demonstrate differences between the models, but the application of SDS at 5 mg/ml for 18 hours induced an increase in viability in the three-layer skin. Furthermore, after applying 2.5% SDS to induce acute irritation, followed by recovery for 42 hours, we obtained greater viability in the three-layer skin, indicating better recovery after induced irritant injury. Trilayer skin holds promise for studies of human skin metabolism and injury recovery. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an eczematous skin disease characterized by Th2-type inflammation and alteration of the epidermal barrier. IL-13 and IL-4 are central to the impairment of the epidermal barrier in AD. Among the IL-13 receptors on keratinocytes, the IL-13Rα2 receptor has a controversial role in altering the skin barrier. The objective of Chapter III was to study the deletion of IL-13Rα2 expression in RHE, which were exposed to IL-4 and IL-13, and evaluated according to the expression of receptors and proteins altered in AD. Epidermis with IL-13Rα2 knockout showed reduced NELL2 expression (p<0.0021), typically increased in AD. Furthermore, there was a reduction in the expression of the IL-2Rγ receptor. Therefore, a possible AD exacerbation role of the IL-13Rα2 receptor should be studied more extensively to be characterized

Cosmetic attributes (oiliness reduction and firmness) from face masks composed of red, green and black clays / Atributos cosméticos (redução de oleosidade e melhora de firmeza) de máscaras faciais compostas por argilas vermelha, verde e preta

The appearance of skin strongly influences people´s self-esteem and well-being. Among the characteristics that affect the most, we can cite acne and wrinkles. Therefore, minimizing those characteristics by using cosmetics has important value for the consumer. Nowadays, there is a demand for natural ingredients, mainly concerning cosmetic products. The use of clays in beauty care is old, with therapeutic uses since Prehistory. There is an essential advantage in using clays for cosmetic purposes, as it is a low-cost, environmentally friendly, natural, and abundant ingredient, which is chemically inert with a low level of toxicity (when in adequate conditions), easy to apply and remove, dries, and hardens fast. In this research work, we aimed at developing and investigating the effect of formulations containing red, green, and black clays as active components in oiliness reduction, and firmness and elasticity improvement in vivo, as well as characterizing clays mineralogically. All clays presented different compositions. Black clay was the one with the simplest mineralogic content, lowest density, and smallest particle size. It was the richest in Si and Al. Green clay presented expandable smectite and the highest density. Red clay presented the largest particle average size and was the richest in iron content. By thermal analysis, clays presented two characteristic events: the water loss (dehydration) and the dihydroxylation of kaolinite, turning into meta kaolinite. In Sebumetry, clays showed a significant reduction of skin oiliness on the forehead in both concentrations after 2h of contact compared to control, baseline, and placebo. However, after 4h (2h after removal), no significant difference was observed with the control. In the Cutometry, clays did not present significant efficacy in skin firmness and elasticity improvement when compared to control and placebo sites, thus, further studies should be performed comparing the efficacy of different vehicles with dispersed clays. Finally, clay mask formulations were developed with black, red, and green clay dispersed in an oil-free gel vehicle, which proved to be adequate for oily skin

A aparência da pele influencia fortemente autoestima e o bem-estar das pessoas. Dentre as características que mais afetam podemos citar acne e rugas. Portanto, minimizar estas características com o uso de cosméticos tem um valor importante para o consumidor. Atualmente existe uma procura por ingredientes naturais, principalmente no que diz respeito a produtos cosméticos. O uso das argilas nos cuidados de beleza é antigo, com usos terapêuticos desde a Pré-História. Há uma vantagem essencial na utilização de argilas para fins cosméticos, pois é um ingrediente de baixo custo, ecologicamente correto, natural, e abundante, que é quimicamente inerte e tem baixo nível de toxicidade (quando usado em condições adequadas), fácil de aplicar e remover, seca, e endurece rapidamente. Neste trabalho de pesquisa, objetivamos desenvolver e investigar o efeito de formulações contendo argilas vermelha, verde e preta como componentes ativos na redução da oleosidade e na melhoria da firmeza e elasticidade in vivo, bem como caracterizar mineralogicamente as argilas. Todas as argilas apresentaram diferentes composições. A argila preta foi a de conteúdo mineralógico mais simples, mais baixa densidade, e menor tamanho de partícula. Foi a mais rica em Si e Al. A argila verde apresentou esmectita expansível e mais alta densidade. A argila vermelha apresentou o maior tamanho médio de partícula e foi a mais rica em ferro. Segundo a análise térmica, as argilas apresentaram dois eventos característicos: a perda de água (desidratação) e a desidroxilação da caulinita, transformando-se em meta-caulinita. Na Sebumetria, as argilas demonstraram significativa redução na oleosidade da pele na testa em ambas as concentrações após 2h de contato comparada ao controle, basal e placebo. Porém, após 4h (2h após remoção), nenhuma diferença significativa foi observada com o controle. Na Cutometria, as argilas não apresentaram Eficácia significativa na melhora da firmeza e elasticidade quando comparadas aos sítios controle e placebo, portanto, mais estudos devem ser realizados comparando a eficácia de diferentes veículos com argilas dispersas. Finalmente, as formulações de máscaras de argilas foram desenvolvidas com argilas preta, vermelha e verde dispersas em um veículo em gel livre de oleosidade, o qual provou ser adequado para pele oleosa

New progress and challenges in the diagnosis and treatment of cosmetic allergy-related adverse reactions / 中华预防医学杂志

In China, the current standard for cosmetic adverse reactions related skin disease (GB/T 17149.1-1997) was jointly issued by the Ministry of Health and the State Bureau of Technical Supervision in 1997, cosmetic-allergic adverse reactions include allergic contact dermatitis and photo-allergic contact dermatitis according to this standard. The increasing use and changes in cosmetic ingredients or formula lead to a significant increase for the incidence of adverse reactions as the cosmetics industry is developing rapidly in the last 20 years. In the meantime, the clinical manifestations have become more diverse. In recent years, there have been many reports on the special manifestations for cosmetic allergy and allergen test, which provide a reference for the subsequent improvement of the diagnosis and prevention.

Report on a case of significant increase in urine mercury due to excessive mercury in cosmetics / 中华劳动卫生职业病杂志

Mercury is highly toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact. From December 5, 2020 to February 16, 2021, occupational disease laboratory of the First People's Hospital of Baiyin received 30 urine mercury test samples from a beauty salon in Lanzhou City. The test results showed that 28 samples exceeded the normal value (normal value: 4 μg/g Cr) . 15 patients were treated with sodium dimertopropyl sulfonate for mercury removal and tiopron for liver protection, and the prognosis was good.

Current status and challenges of long-term safety evaluation of using tests of cosmetics on human body / 中华预防医学杂志

The use of cosmetics in the crowd has the long-term characteristics. The adverse reactions of cosmetics reported in other country in the world suggest that human patch tests and short-term human using test may not be sufficient to evaluate the safety of high-risk new cosmetic raw ingredients, and long-term human using test should be conducted for evaluation. Therefore, this article reviews the key factors that affect long-term human trial trials, such as site of use, single-use amount, frequency of use, duration of use, and subject conditions, providing supportive evidence for standardized safety evaluation standards for long-term human using test of cosmetics.

Current status and challenges of long-term safety evaluation of using tests of cosmetics on human body / 中华预防医学杂志

The use of cosmetics in the crowd has the long-term characteristics. The adverse reactions of cosmetics reported in other country in the world suggest that human patch tests and short-term human using test may not be sufficient to evaluate the safety of high-risk new cosmetic raw ingredients, and long-term human using test should be conducted for evaluation. Therefore, this article reviews the key factors that affect long-term human trial trials, such as site of use, single-use amount, frequency of use, duration of use, and subject conditions, providing supportive evidence for standardized safety evaluation standards for long-term human using test of cosmetics.

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos: percepção de profissionais sobre melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital / Photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics: perception of professionals on the improvement of flaccidity and genital hyperpigmentation

INTRODUÇÃO: A fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos despigmentantes e rejuvenescedores tem mostrado benefícios na melhora da flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital em mulheres. OBJETIVO: O objetivo do estudo foi descrever a percepção de profissionais acerca da melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital tratados por fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos. MÉTODO: O estudo evidenciou percepção de melhora no aspecto geral, flacidez e pigmentação genital com uso da terapêutica proposta. RESULTADOS: Amostra composta por dez mulheres submetidas a quatro sessões de tratamento. A análise dos profissionais foi mediante a comparação dos registos fotográficos de antes e depois do tratamento da região genital. CONCLUSÃO: No entanto, é necessário que novos modelos de avaliação para evidenciar a efetividade terapêutica para tratamentos de flacidez e discromias na região genital sejam desenvolvidos ampliando assim os métodos de avaliação para além da percepção de melhora do aspecto geral.

INTRODUCTION: Photobiomodulation associated with depigmenting and rejuvenating cosmetics has shown benefits in improving sagging and genital hyperpigmentation in women. OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to describe the perception of professionals about the improvement of sagging and genital hyperpigmentation treated by photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics. METHOD: The study showed a perception of improvement in the general appearance, sagging and genital pigmentation with the use of the proposed therapy. RESULTS: Sample composed of ten women submitted to four treatment sessions. The analysis of the professionals was by comparing the photographic records of before and after the treatment of the genital region. CONCLUSION: However, it is necessary that new evaluation models to evidence the therapeutic effectiveness for treatments of flaccidity and dyschromias in the genital region are developed, thus expanding the evaluation methods beyond the perception of improvement in the general aspect.

Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy / 生物医学工程学杂志

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

Difusão e propaganda sobre antienvelhecimento na mídia brasileira: um estudo de representações sociais / Diffusion and propaganda about anti-aging in brazilian media: a study of social representations / Difusión y propaganda sobre el antienvejecimiento en los medios de comunicación brasileños: un estudio de las representaciones sociales

Esta pesquisa buscou mapear conteúdos relativos ao antienvelhecimento em revistas de grande circulação e no noticiário brasileiro, entre 1º de janeiro de 2016 e 31 de dezembro de 2019. Foram investigadas as revistas Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP e Carbono Uomo. Houve ainda coleta no portal de notícias G1, da Rede Globo de Televisão, voltado ao público geral. Foram criados dois corpora distintos formados pelos conteúdos do G1 e das revistas que, então, foram submetidos à Classificação Hierárquica Descendente pelo software IRaMuTeQ, dando origem a dois subcorpora e quatro classes para cada um. Os resultados apontam uma forte tendência mercadológica nas revistas, que buscam conduzir os leitores ao consumo de produtos e à realização de procedimentos estéticos. Por outro lado, as notícias jornalísticas apregoam um modelo de vida mais saudável como principal prática antienvelhecimento, ao mesmo tempo que alertam sobre os riscos envolvidos nos procedimentos e produtos estéticos irregulares. Em geral, o conteúdo das revistas dissipa representações sociais que idealizam um padrão de beleza do corpo jovial, associando a velhice à fealdade, enquanto o do portal de notícias G1 voltam-se à saúde e longevidade.(AU)

This survey aimed to map anti-aging content, in magazines with wide circulation and also in Brazilian news, between January 1, 2016 and December 31, 2019. Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP and Carbono Uomo magazines were studied. News were also collected from the G1 news portal, from Globo television network, aimed at the general audience. Two distinct corpora formed by the contents of the G1 and the magazines were created, which were then submitted to the Descending Hierarchical Classification, by the IRaMuTeQ software, leading to two subcorpora and four classes for each. The results show a strong market orientation in the magazines, which aim to lead readers to purchase products and undertake aesthetic procedures. The news reports, on the other way, promote a healthier life model as the main anti-aging practice, while warning about the risks involved in irregular aesthetic procedures and products. In general, the content of the magazines spreads social representations which idealize a pattern of beauty of a young body, connecting old age with ugliness, whereas that of the G1 news portal are focused on health and longevity.(AU)

Esta iniciativa buscó mapear material de antienvejecimiento, en revistas de gran tirada y en las noticias de Brasil, entre el 1 de enero de 2016 y el 31 de diciembre de 2019. Se analizaron las revistas Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP y Carbono Uomo. También se recogieron noticias del sitio de noticias G1 y de la red de televisión Globo, ambas dirigidas al público en general. Se crearon dos corpora distintos formados por el contenido del G1 y de las revistas, que luego fueron sometidos a la Clasificación Jerárquica Descendente, por el software IRaMuTeQ, dando lugar a dos subcorpora y cuatro clases para cada uno de los corpora. Los resultados señalan una fuerte orientación del mercado de promoción en las revistas, que buscan llevar a los lectores a consumir productos y realizar procedimientos estéticos. En cambio, las noticias periodísticas difunden un modelo de vida más saludable como la principal práctica antienvejecimiento, mientras que al mismo tiempo advierten sobre los riesgos que implican los procedimientos irregulares y los productos estéticos. De forma general, el contenido de las revistas difunde representaciones sociales que idealizan un estándar de belleza del cuerpo joven, asociando la vejez con la fealdad, mientras que el del portal de noticias G1 se orienta a la salud y la longevidad.(AU)

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine / Desafios da nanotecnologia na permeação cosmética com cafeína

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Quality of cosmetics with active caffeine in cream and gel galenic bases prepared by compounding pharmacies / Qualidade de cosméticos com cafeína ativa em bases galênicas em creme e gel preparadas por farmácias de manipulação

As there is a great scarcity of studies on the importance of good compounding practices in the preparation of cosmetics, this study aimed to evaluate the quality control of cosmetics with active ingredient caffeine for the treatment of cellulite prepared by magistrals pharmacies. Microbiological analyzes, pH determination, color measurement, quantification of the percentage of the active ingredient caffeine and viscosity in creams and gels with 5% of the active ingredient caffeine were performed. In the microbiological analysis, the presence of molds and yeasts was verified above the permitted level according to the Brazilian pharmacopoeia. The pH decreased over time, contributing to the formulations becoming more acidic. In the color parameters, it was found that pharmacy F4 showed a brownish color, both for the gel and for the cream. The percentage of caffeine was within specifications in all formulations and the viscosity remained unchanged during the shelf life of the samples. It is important that the compounding pharmacies demand more effectively the commitment of the team, as well as the analysis of the raw material according to the microbiological control regulations to translate into the quality of the products prepared by the pharmacies and favor the consumer in the effective objective that the product you want to achieve.

Como há uma grande escassez de estudos sobre a importância de boas práticas de manipulação na elaboração de cosméticos, o presente estudo teve como objetivo avaliar o controle de qualidade de cosméticos com princípio ativo cafeína para o tratamento de celulite, elaborados por farmácias de manipulação de Campo Mourão. Foram realizadas análises microbiológicas, determinação do pH, mensuração da coloração, quantificação da porcentagem do princípio ativo cafeína e viscosidade em cremes e geís com 5% do princípio ativo cafeína. Nas análises microbiológicas foi verificada a presença de bolores e leveduras acima do pemitido segundo a farmacopéia brasileira. O pH diminuiu ao longo do tempo, contribuindo para que as formulações ficassem mais ácidas. Nos parâmetros de cor averiguou-se que a farmácia F4 apresentou uma coloração amarronzada, tanto para o gel quanto para o creme. A porcentagem de cafeína estava dentro das especificações em todas as formulações e a viscosidade se manteve inalterada durante o prazo de validade das amostras. Com o propósito de um melhor preparo magistral é importante que as farmácias de manipulação exijam de forma mais eficaz o comprometimento da equipe, bem como a análise da matéria-prima segundo as regulamentações de controle microbiológico. Além disso, a implementação de normas mais rígidas e o melhor controle da matéria-prima e das formulações finais fazem com que a qualidade dos produtos manipulados pelas farmácias magistrais seja aumentada significativamente, favorecendo o consumidor na efetiva finalidade a que o produto objetiva atingir.

Formaldehyde analysis of seized cosmetic products by HS-GC-MS of methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane, and ethylal derivatives

Abstract Formaldehyde is a carcinogenic compound used as preservative in cosmetic products. In this study, a derivatization procedure using MeOH, EtOH and HCl (25:25:1), and incubation at 60ºC for 4 hours was optimized, and the derivatized products - methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane (EMM), and ethylal - were directly analyzed by headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS-GC-MS) to determine formaldehyde concentrations. The validated method provided good linearity of the standard curve, selectivity, recovery (89.6-106.6%), repeatability, and intermediate precision (RSD < 12%), with an LOD of 0.0015% and an LOQ of 0.005% for all derivatized analytes. The validated method showed to be fast, clean, and easy to implement in a laboratory. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first reported HS-GC-MS procedure to determine formaldehyde as methylal, ethylal, and EMM as derivatized compounds. The method was satisfactorily applied for the analysis of nine hair-straightener cream samples seized by the Civil Police of the Federal District, Brazil. Eight samples contained formaldehyde, at levels ranging from 0.33 to 4.02 %, higher than the legal levels, indicating the need to control the levels of this toxic compound in cosmetic products

In vitro evaluation of the cytotoxicity and eye irritation potential of preservatives widely used in cosmetics

Abstract The consumption of cosmetics has been increasing every year and is expected to reach $675 billion by 2020 at an estimated growth rate of 6.4% per year. Exposure to skin irritants is the major cause of non-immunological inflammation of the skin. Therefore, the safety evaluation of cosmetic preservatives should be increased. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity as the viability endpoint and the eye irritation potential of preservatives used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity assays were performed using MTT and NRU in human keratinocytes (HaCaT), human dermal fibroblasts, adult (HDFa), and human hepatoma cells (HepG2). The eye irritation potential was evaluated using the Hen's Egg Test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The evaluated preservatives were methylparaben (MP), propylparaben (PP), phenoxyethanol (PE), and a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMI/MI). All preservatives showed cytotoxic potential within the permitted concentrations for use in cosmetic products. In the HET-CAM test, PE and CMI/MI, MP, and PP were classified as severe, moderate, and poor irritants, respectively. Our results indicate that proper safety evaluations are required to ensure the beneficial properties of preservatives on cosmetic products without exceeding exposure levels that would result in adverse health effects for consumers.

Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of dihydroquercetin esters

Abstract Flavonoids display various beneficial biological properties, such as antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity, which make them useful ingredients in foods, pharmaceuticals, and functional cosmetics. In particular, dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is found in various forms, and its derivatives exhibit interesting biological properties. Herein, we report the synthesis of acetylated and butyrylated dihydroquercetin derivatives and their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. The DHQ derivatives were identified using 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies and high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The chemical stabilities of the acetylated dihydroquercetin derivatives were found to depend on the number of acetate groups, with 3,3',4',4,7-pentaacetyldihydroquercetin found to be the most stable acetylated dihydroquercetin. Furthermore, 7,3',4'-triacetyl- dihydroquercetin exhibited potent antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 56.67 ± 4.79 µg/mL in the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, with DHQ exhibiting a value of 32.41 ± 3.35 µg/mL. The reactive-oxygen-species-scavenging activity of 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin was highest among the esters in the ferric reducing ability of plasma assay, but lower than that of DHQ. Overall, both DHQ and 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin exhibited antimicrobial behavior against S. aureus and P. acnes using the paper disc assay. DHQ displayed a higher antimicrobial activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations of 625 µg/mL (P. acnes), 2,500 µg/mL (S. aureus), and 5,000 µg/mL (E. coli). DHQ and acetylated dihydroquercetins are potentially useful as complex antioxidant and antimicrobial materials

Óleo essencial de Pataqueira (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) como conservante natural em Cosméticos / Pataqueira essential oil (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) as a natural preservative in cosmetics

Um dos principais grupos de conservantes utilizados na maioria dos cosméticos são os parabenos que em muitos estudos demonstraram que podem provocar reações alérgicas como dermatite de contato, entre outras sensibilizações cutâneas. A fim de minimizar esses problemas, a indústria está produzindo cosméticos livres de conservantes ou de origem natural e em associações aos sintéticos. Dentre os conservantes naturais utilizados, podemos citar os óleos essenciais como uma alternativa viável. Diante deste contexto o presente trabalho visa avaliar experimentalmente o potencial antimicrobiano do óleo essencial de Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl., conhecida popularmente como pataqueira, o efeito de sua associação com parabenos e de sua eficácia como conservante em bases cosméticas. A composição do óleo essencial foi avaliada, indicando que este é composto em sua maior parte por terpenos, tendo éter metílico do timol (39,2%), timol (33,8 %) e α-felandreno (15,9%) como compostos majoritários. A atividade antimicrobiana do óleo essencial e do timol foi acessada através da concentração inibitória mínima (CIM), cujos resultados em µg/mL para o óleo essencial e o timol foram respectivamente: Staphylococcus aureus 650,70 e 284,90, Escherichia coli 721,53 e 271,20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748,00 e > 2.000, Burkholderia cepacia 833,03 e 1.077,70, Candida albicans 521,43 e 172,61 e Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 e 400. O efeito sinérgico da associação do óleo essencial com os parabenos foi realizado através de um delineamento experimental centroide simplex para uma mistura de metilparabeno, propilparabeno e óleo essencial frente aos mesmos micro-organismos utilizados na determinação da atividade antimicrobiana. As concentrações ideais obtidas pela análise estatística para cada componente em µg/mL foram: 1120 para o metilparabeno, 350 para o propilparabeno e 675 para o óleo essencial. O teste de eficácia do sistema conservante em formulação cosmética foi efetuado empregando as concentrações ideais e mais duas concentrações superiores e uma abaixo do ideal. Para todas as cepas microbianas desafiadas o resultado do teste foi de redução total da carga microbiana inoculada nos sete dias de ensaio e nenhum aumento até o vigésimo oitavo dia o que demonstra a eficácia da associação do óleo essencial com os conservantes sintéticos. O óleo essencial de C. scoparioides apresentou um potencial antimicrobiano importante tanto sozinho como em associação com conservantes sintéticos. Estes resultados sugerem que esse óleo pode ser usado para compor um sistema conservante para formulações cosméticas contendo uma menor quantidade de sintéticos

One of the main groups of preservatives used in most cosmetics are parabens, that many studies have shown that they can cause allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis, among other skin sensitizations. To minimize these problems, the industry is producing cosmetics preservative free or using natural products instead and their combination with the synthetics. Among the natural preservatives used, we can mention essential oils as a viable alternative. In this context, the present work aims to experimentally evaluate the antimicrobial potential of the Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl. essential oil, popularly known as pataqueira, the effect of its association with parabens and its effectiveness as a preservative in cosmetic bases. The essential oil composition was analyzed, indicating that it is composed mostly of terpenes, with thymol methyl ether (39.2%), thymol (33.8%) and -phelandrene (15.9%) as major compounds. The antimicrobial activity of essential oil and thymol was accessed through the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), whose results in µg/mL for essential oil and thymol were respectively: Staphylococcus aureus 650.70 and 284.90, Escherichia coli 721, 53 and 271.20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748.00 and > 2,000, Burkholderia cepacia 833.03 and 1,077.70, Candida albicans 521.43 and 172.61 and Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 and 400. The synergistic effect of the association of essential oil with parabens was performed through a centroid simplex experimental design for a mixture of methylparaben, propylparaben and essential oil against the same microorganisms used in the antimicrobial activity evaluation The ideal concentrations obtained by statistical analysis for each component in µg/mL were: 1120 for methylparaben, 350 for propylparaben and 675 for essential oil. The effectiveness test of the preservative system in cosmetic formulation was carried out using the ideal concentrations plus two higher concentrations and one below the ideal. For all challenged microbial strains, the test result was a total reduction of the inoculated microbial load in the seven days of testing and no increase until the twenty-eighth day, which demonstrates the effectiveness of the association of essential oil with synthetic preservatives. C. scoparioides essential oil showed an important antimicrobial potential both alone and in association with parabens. These results demonstrated that it can be used to compose a preservative system for cosmetic formulations containing lower amounts of synthetics

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics

ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R's principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic applications of Passiflora nitida Kunth leaf extract

Abstract Passiflora nitida Kunth, an Amazonian Passiflora species, is little studied, although the specie's high biological potential. Herein the plant's pharmacognostic characterization, extract production, antioxidant potential evaluation, and application of this extract in cosmetic products is reported. The physical chemical parameters analyzed were particle size by sieve analysis, loss through drying, extractive yield, total ash content, laser granulometry, specific surface area and pore diameter (SBET), differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry (TG), and wave dispersive X-Ray fluorescence (WDXRF). Total phenol/flavonoid content, LC-MS/MS analysis, DPPH and ABTS antioxidant radical assays, cytotoxicity, melanin, and tyrosinase inhibition in melanocytes test provided evidence to determine the content of the major constituent. P. nitida dry extract provided a fine powder with mesopores determined by SBET, with the TG curve showing five stages of mass loss. The antioxidant potential ranged between 23.5-31.5 mg∙mL-1 and tyrosinase inhibition between 400-654 µg∙mL-1. The species presented an antimelanogenic effect and an inhibitory activity of cellular tyrosinase (26.6%) at 25 µg/mL. The LC-MS/MS analysis of the spray-dried extract displayed the main and minor phenolic compounds constituting this sample. The results indicate that P. nitida extract has promising features for the development of cosmetic formulations

Quality of cosmetics with active caffeine in cream and gel galenic bases prepared by compounding pharmacies / Qualidade de cosméticos com cafeína ativa em bases galênicas em creme e gel preparadas por farmácias de manipulação

As there is a great scarcity of studies on the importance of good compounding practices in the preparation of cosmetics, this study aimed to evaluate the quality control of cosmetics with active ingredient caffeine for the treatment of cellulite prepared by magistrals pharmacies. Microbiological analyzes, pH determination, color measurement, quantification of the percentage of the active ingredient caffeine and viscosity in creams and gels with 5% of the active ingredient caffeine were performed. In the microbiological analysis, the presence of molds and yeasts was verified above the permitted level according to the Brazilian pharmacopoeia. The pH decreased over time, contributing to the formulations becoming more acidic. In the color parameters, it was found that pharmacy F4 showed a brownish color, both for the gel and for the cream. The percentage of caffeine was within specifications in all formulations and the viscosity remained unchanged during the shelf life of the samples. It is important that the compounding pharmacies demand more effectively the commitment of the team, as well as the analysis of the raw material according to the microbiological control regulations to translate into the quality of the products prepared by the pharmacies and favor the consumer in the effective objective that the product you want to achieve.

Como há uma grande escassez de estudos sobre a importância de boas práticas de manipulação na elaboração de cosméticos, o presente estudo teve como objetivo avaliar o controle de qualidade de cosméticos com princípio ativo cafeína para o tratamento de celulite, elaborados por farmácias de manipulação de Campo Mourão. Foram realizadas análises microbiológicas, determinação do pH, mensuração da coloração, quantificação da porcentagem do princípio ativo cafeína e viscosidade em cremes e geís com 5% do princípio ativo cafeína. Nas análises microbiológicas foi verificada a presença de bolores e leveduras acima do pemitido segundo a farmacopéia brasileira. O pH diminuiu ao longo do tempo, contribuindo para que as formulações ficassem mais ácidas. Nos parâmetros de cor averiguou-se que a farmácia F4 apresentou uma coloração amarronzada, tanto para o gel quanto para o creme. A porcentagem de cafeína estava dentro das especificações em todas as formulações e a viscosidade se manteve inalterada durante o prazo de validade das amostras. Com o propósito de um melhor preparo magistral é importante que as farmácias de manipulação exijam de forma mais eficaz o comprometimento da equipe, bem como a análise da matéria-prima segundo as regulamentações de controle microbiológico. Além disso, a implementação de normas mais rígidas e o melhor controle da matéria-prima e das formulações finais fazem com que a qualidade dos produtos manipulados pelas farmácias magistrais seja aumentada significativamente, favorecendo o consumidor na efetiva finalidade a que o produto objetiva atingir.