Water in cosmetics and Caenorhabditis elegans as an alternative model for lifespan assessment.

OBJECTIVE: Water, often considered a fundamental component of life, is the most commonly used ingredient in the formulation of dermocosmetic products, with waterless products being the exception. Dermocosmetic products can contain anywhere from 50% to 85% water, which contributes to their texture and specific characteristics. The chemical composition of water varies depending on its origin and can be categorized as highly mineralized or low mineralized. These compositions could impact the water's efficacy in anti-aging applications. In this study, the objective is evaluating the anti-aging properties of highly and low mineralized water with the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans. METHODS: In this article, we employed the alternative model organism C. elegans to assess the impact of 5 branded waters, one physiological water and one ultra-pure water on the model's lifespan, using the survival medium conventionally used for C. elegans as a comparison. RESULTS: Waters may have either a positive or a negative impact on the C. elegans lifespan expectancy. Our results indicate that only one of the water brands we assessed (Volvic®) had a significantly positive effect on worm longevity. In contrast, we found that two other brands (Hepar® and Contrex®) had a negative impact on the later stages of the worm's adulthood. Furthermore, we demonstrated that the impact of the brand water samples on lifespan expectancy varied depending on their physicochemical composition, in particular when ion concentrations were most extreme. CONCLUSION: This study shows that the highly mineralized waters studied have a detrimental effect on the survival of C. elegans, and a preliminary test with ultra-pure water could not be completed due to its deleterious effect on the worms. This suggests the hypothesis that both highly mineralized and completely demineralized waters may not be the most suitable for skin formulations.

OBJECTIF: L'eau, élément fondamental à la vie, est l'ingrédient le plus utilisé dans la formulation de produits dermocosmétiques, pour lesquels les produits sans eau restent des exceptions. Les produits dermocosmétiques contiennent 50% à 85% d'eau, contribuant à leurs textures et leurs caractéristiques spécifiques. La composition chimique de l'eau varie en fonction de son origine et peut être catégorisée comme hautement ou faiblement minéralisée. Cette composition peut impacter l'efficacité de l'eau pour ses applications anti-âge. Dans cette étude, l'objectif est d'évaluer les propriétés anti-âge d'eaux fortement ou faiblement minéralisées à l'aide de l'organisme modèle Caenorhabditis elegans. METHODES: Dans ce travail, nous avons utilisé le modèle alternatif C. elegans pour étudier l'impact de 5 marques d'eaux, du sérum physiologique et de l'eau ultrapure sur ce modèle, en utilisant le milieu de culture standard de C. elegans comme contrôle. RESULTATS: Les eaux peuvent avoir un impact positif ou négatif sur la longévité des C. elegans. Nos résultats indiquent que seule l'une des eaux étudiées (Volvic®) a un impact positif sur la longévité des nématodes. Au contraire, nous avons montré que 2 autres eaux (Hepar® and Contrex®) ont un impact négatif sur les derniers stades adultes. De plus, nous avons démontré que l'impact des eaux sur la longévité variait en fonction de leurs compositions physicochimiques, en particulier lorsque les concentrations ioniques sont extrêmes.

Assessing the Impact of Mechanical Damage on Full-Thickness Porcine and Human Skin Using an In Vitro Approach.

For most xenobiotics, the rates of percutaneous absorption are limited by diffusion through the horny layer of skin. However, percutaneous absorption of chemicals may seriously increase when the skin is damaged. The aim of this work was to develop an in vitro representative model of mechanically damaged skins. The epidermal barrier was examined following exposure to a razor, a rotating brush, and a microneedle system in comparison to tape-stripping which acted as a reference. Excised full-thickness skins were mounted on a diffusion chamber in order to evaluate the effect of injuries and to mimic physiological conditions. The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was greatly increased when the barrier function was compromised. Measurements were made for all the damaged biopsies and observed histologically by microscopy. On human and porcine skins, the tape-stripping application (0 to 40 times) showed a proportional increase in TEWL which highlights the destruction of the stratum corneum. Similar results were obtained for all cosmetic instruments. This is reflected in our study by the nonsignificant difference of the mean TEWL scores between 30 strips and mechanical damage. For a specific appreciation, damaged skins were then selected to qualitatively evaluate the absorption of a chlorogenic acid solution using fluorescence microscopy.

UHPH-processed O/W submicron emulsions stabilised with a lipid-based surfactant: physicochemical characteristics and behaviour on in vitro TC7-cell monolayers and ex vivo pig's ear skin.

Submicron O/W emulsions formulated with sesame oil plus a lipid-base surfactant, and with or without retinyl acetate (RAC) as a model hydrophobic biomolecule, were prepared by single-pass homogenisation at ≥ 200 MPa (UHPH) and an initial fluid temperature (Tin) of 24°C. These emulsions were characterised by a monomodal distribution (peak maximum at 260 nm) and a 2-year potential physical stability at ambient temperature. Submicron droplets were investigated in term of (i) physicochemical characteristics (size distribution curves; ζ-potential value), and (ii) impact on TC7-cell monolayers (MTT-assay and cell LDH-leakage). Submicron droplets ± RAC did not affect or increased significantly (p=0.05) TC7-cell metabolic activity after 4-24h of exposure indicating absence of cellular impairment, except when high amounts of droplets were deposed on TC7-cells. Indeed, the lipid-based surfactant deposed alone on TC7-cells at high concentration, induced some significant (p=0.05) cell LDH-leakage, and therefore cell-membrane damage. Cellular uptake experiments revealed a significant (p=0.05) time-dependent internalisation of RAC from submicron droplets, and cellular transformation of RAC into retinol. The turnover of RAC into retinol and therefore RAC bioaccessibility appeared faster for RAC-micelles of similar size-range and prepared at atmospheric pressure with polysorbate 80, than for submicron O/W emulsions. Permeation experiments using pig's ear skin mounted on Franz-type diffusion cells, revealed RAC in dermis-epidermis, in significantly (p=0.05) higher amounts for submicron than coarse pre-emulsions. However, RAC amounts remained low for both emulsion-types and RAC was not detected in the receptor medium of Franz-type diffusion cells.

The influence of alcohol, propylene glycol and 1,2-pentanediol on the permeability of hydrophilic model drug through excised pig skin.

Alcohol and glycol including 1,2-pentanediol, a new product in this field, were examined for their transdermal penetration enhancing in vitro properties using pig skin and caffeine as a model drug. In order to investigate a possible influence of these compounds, we followed diffusion from an aqueous solution with caffeine followed by a series of different vehicles, their compositions were: (1) in water as a control; (2) in propylene glycol/ethanol/water (25:25:48; v/v/v); (3) in 1,2-pentanediol/water (2.5:95.5, v/v); (4) in 1,2-pentanediol/water (5:93, v/v); in propylene glycol/water (5:93; v/v); and in ethanol/water (5:93; v/v). The stratum corneum/vehicle partition coefficients (K(m)), maximum flux (J), enhancement factor (EF), 24-h receptor concentration (Q(24h)) were determined and compared to control values (caffeine in water). Permeation was also expressed in percentage of the applied dose absorbed in the different compartments. In all test models, caffeine was released and penetrated into pig skin. The 1,2-pentanediol was presented as the most effective enhancer; with a low proportion of this compound (only 5%), caffeine penetrated the skin quicker and in a greater extent. While this compound showed promise as penetration enhancer, further study was required to determine its effectiveness with others drugs and its irritation potential.

Irradiation of skin and contrasting effects on absorption of hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds.

Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment and efficacy testing in the dermo-cosmetic field have led to the development of alternative test methods. In this study, the porcine skin model was chosen to test the effect of irradiation on the penetration habits of UV filters and caffeine. For decades, the pig has been recognized as an experimental animal in biomedical research thanks to its morphological and physiological similarities to humans. In this study, we wanted to investigate the effect of UV irradiation on the absorption of octocrylene (OC) and benzophenone-3 (B3) sunscreens used under those circumstances and a model hydrophilic molecule, caffeine (Caf). These particular compounds were chosen due to their different lipophilic profiles. The percutaneous penetration of the two UV filters and Caf was studied after two simulated solar radiation doses of 61.4 kJ m(-2). After irradiation simulation, the total absorbed dose was increased for OC while for B3 and Caf it was lower. Thus, modifications in percutaneous absorption have been observed, and it appears that UV could play a crucial role in this process. Moreover, it has been observed that the lipophilic profile of the studied compounds affects percutaneous penetration when irradiated.

Consideration on the formulation of benzoyl peroxide at ambient temperature: choice of non-polar solvent and preparation of submicron emulsion gels.

The aim of this study performed at ambient temperature was first to determine the solubility of benzoyl peroxide in various solvents with a large range of polarity. All these solvents can be used in the dermatological field. Then, using the most suitable solvent, a new drug vehicle submicron oil-in-water emulsion was formulated. Correlation between dielectric constant (epsilon) and drug solubility in various solvents and different binary mixtures was verified. An original ternary diagram with surfactant-co-surfactant/oil/water was performed at low temperature to determine the regions of submicron emulsions. A dramatic change in the magnitude of benzoyl peroxide solubility occurred above a dielectric constant value of about 20. The solubility of this drug can be enhanced by the replacement of polar solvent by a vehicle of lower dielectric constant. A stable submicron emulsion gel was made with cremophor EL, glycerol, caprilic-capric triglycerides, and water in the proportion of 20-20/35/25, respectively; 1.5% benzoyl peroxide was also added. This submicron emulsion vehicle consisted of oil droplets, with a mean diameter of approximately 100-150 nm, dispersed in a continuous water phase. These studies confirm the potential of benzoyl peroxide incorporation into submicron emulsion gel and the stability of this formulation.