In Vitro Testing of Sunscreens for Dermal Absorption: Method Comparison and Rank Order Correlation with In Vivo Absorption.

Evaluating the dermal absorption of sunscreen UV filters requires the development of a bio-predictable in vitro permeation test (IVPT). This work describes the comparison of two IVPT methods and rank order correlations of in vitro absorption (skin permeation and retention) with the in vivo absorption (AUC and skin retention) of sunscreens. The IVPT was compared regarding the following elements: (1) application of a single finite dose vs. an infinite dose and (2) the use of heat-separated human epidermis vs. dermatomed skin models. The IVPT was used to evaluate dermal absorption of six UV filters (avobenzone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, and oxybenzone) in commercial sunscreens. Both the in vivo and in vitro permeation studies demonstrated that all UV filters were absorbed following a single-dose application. Sunscreens were rank ordered by the amount of the UV filters absorbed. Data obtained from the IVPT method using a single finite dose and heat-separated human epidermis was found to correlate with the clinical data. Rank orders of the cumulative in vitro skin permeation and the in vivo AUC were found comparable for oxybenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate. Rank orders of the in vitro and in vivo skin retention of oxybenzone and octinoxate were also comparable. Additional IVPT parameters may be optimized to enhance the discriminatory power for UV filters with low skin permeation potential (e.g., avobenzone and octocrylene).

Suboptimal UVA attenuation by broad spectrum sunscreens under outdoor solar conditions contributes to lifetime UVA burden.

BACKGROUND: Broad spectrum sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or greater are indicated to decrease the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun if used as directed with other sun protection measures. To determine whether sunscreen product performance is compromised under solar exposure and to test spectral uniformity of protection across the UVA spectrum, we tested broad spectrum sunscreens with a variety of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and in a variety of dosage forms. METHODS: A cross-sectional market survey of 32 sunscreen drug products containing either organic or inorganic APIs with SPFs of 15, 30, 50, and 70 was tested. UV doses were delivered via natural sun in Silver Spring, Maryland between June and September of 2017. RESULTS: Of the 32 sunscreen drug products, 6 products failed to meet their broad spectrum claim under solar exposure. Using FDA's new proposal to strengthen sunscreen broad spectrum requirements, spectral uniformity based on the mean sunscreen absorbance of UVA1(340-400 nm)/UV (290-400 nm) indicated that ~40% of sunscreen drug products tested had suboptimal UVA protection. CONCLUSION: US consumers may unknowingly be receiving up to 36% more transmitted UVA when selecting between similarly labeled broad spectrum sunscreen drug products with equivalent SPF values. FDA's new proposal may help decrease consumers' overall lifetime UVA burden. Spectral absorbance data on sunscreen performance can be used to further improve the coupling of broad spectrum protection to a product's SPF value so that consumers have improved proportional increases in UV protection.

UV exposure modulates hemidesmosome plasticity, contributing to long-term pigmentation in human skin.

Human skin colour, ie pigmentation, differs widely among individuals, as do their responses to various types of ultraviolet radiation (UV) and their risks of skin cancer. In some individuals, UV-induced pigmentation persists for months to years in a phenomenon termed long-lasting pigmentation (LLP). It is unclear whether LLP is an indicator of potential risk for skin cancer. LLP seems to have similar features to other forms of hyperpigmentation, eg solar lentigines or age spots, which are clinical markers of photodamage and risk factors for precancerous lesions. To investigate what UV-induced molecular changes may persist in individuals with LLP, clinical specimens from non-sunburn-inducing repeated UV exposures (UVA, UVB or UVA + UVB) at 4 months post-exposure (short-term LLP) were evaluated by microarray analysis and dataset mining. Validated targets were further evaluated in clinical specimens from six healthy individuals (three LLP+ and three LLP-) followed for more than 9 months (long-term LLP) who initially received a single sunburn-inducing UVA + UVB exposure. The results support a UV-induced hyperpigmentation model in which basal keratinocytes have an impaired ability to remove melanin that leads to a compensatory mechanism by neighbouring keratinocytes with increased proliferative capacity to maintain skin homeostasis. The attenuated expression of SOX7 and other hemidesmosomal components (integrin α6ß4 and plectin) leads to increased melanosome uptake by keratinocytes and points to a spatial regulation within the epidermis. The reduced density of hemidesmosomes provides supporting evidence for plasticity at the epidermal-dermal junction. Altered hemidesmosome plasticity, and the sustained nature of LLP, may be mediated by the role of SOX7 in basal keratinocytes. The long-term sustained subtle changes detected are modest, but sufficient to create dramatic visual differences in skin colour. These results suggest that the hyperpigmentation phenomenon leading to increased interdigitation develops in order to maintain normal skin homeostasis in individuals with LLP.

Epidermal gene expression and ethnic pigmentation variations among individuals of Asian, European and African ancestry.

Differences in visible skin pigmentation give rise to the wide variation of skin colours seen in racial/ethnic populations. Skin pigmentation is important not only from cosmetic and psychological points of view, but more importantly because of its implications for the risk of all types of skin cancers, on photoaging, etc. Despite differences in those parameters in Caucasian and Asian skin types, they are remarkably similar in their production and distribution of melanins, and the mechanism(s) underlying their different characteristics have remained obscure. In this study, we used microarray analysis of skin suction blisters to investigate molecular differences underlying the determination of pigmentation in various skin types, and we used immunohistochemistry to validate the expression patterns of several interesting targets that were identified. Intriguingly, Caucasian and Asian skins had highly similar gene expression patterns that differed significantly from the pattern of African skin. The results of this study suggest the dynamic interactions of different types of cells in human skin that regulate its pigmentation, reveal that the known pigmentation genes have a limited contribution and uncover a new array of genes, including NINL and S100A4, that might be involved in that regulation.

AMP kinase-related kinase NUAK2 affects tumor growth, migration, and clinical outcome of human melanoma.

The identification of genes that participate in melanomagenesis should suggest strategies for developing therapeutic modalities. We used a public array comparative genomic hybridization (CGH) database and real-time quantitative PCR (qPCR) analyses to identify the AMP kinase (AMPK)-related kinase NUAK2 as a candidate gene for melanomagenesis, and we analyzed its functions in melanoma cells. Our analyses had identified a locus at 1q32 where genomic gain is strongly associated with tumor thickness, and we used real-time qPCR analyses and regression analyses to identify NUAK2 as a candidate gene at that locus. Associations of relapse-free survival and overall survival of 92 primary melanoma patients with NUAK2 expression measured using immunohistochemistry were investigated using Kaplan-Meier curves, log rank tests, and Cox regression models. Knockdown of NUAK2 induces senescence and reduces S-phase, decreases migration, and down-regulates expression of mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR). In vivo analysis demonstrated that knockdown of NUAK2 suppresses melanoma tumor growth in mice. Survival analysis showed that the risk of relapse is greater in acral melanoma patients with high levels of NUAK2 expression than in acral melanoma patients with low levels of NUAK2 expression (hazard ratio = 3.88; 95% confidence interval = 1.44-10.50; P = 0.0075). These data demonstrate that NUAK2 expression is significantly associated with the oncogenic features of melanoma cells and with the survival of acral melanoma patients. NUAK2 may provide a drug target to suppress melanoma progression. This study further supports the importance of NUAK2 in cancer development and tumor progression, while AMPK has antioncogenic properties.

Non-invasive diffuse reflectance measurements of cutaneous melanin content can predict human sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.

The diversity of human skin phenotypes and the ubiquitous exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) underscore the need for a non-invasive tool to predict an individual's UVR sensitivity. We analysed correlations between UVR sensitivity, melanin content, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DR) and UVR-induced DNA damage in the skin of subjects from three racial/ethnic groups: Asian, black or African American and White. UVR sensitivity was determined by evaluating each subject's response to one minimal erythemal dose (MED) of UVR one day after the exposure. Melanin content was measured using DR and by densitometric analysis of Fontana-Masson staining (FM) in skin biopsies taken from unexposed areas. An individual's UVR sensitivity based on MED was highly correlated with melanin content measured by DR and by FM. Therefore, a predictive model for the non-invasive determination of UVR sensitivity using DR was developed. The MED precision was further improved when we took race/ethnicity into consideration. The use of DR serves as a tool for predicting UVR sensitivity in humans that should be invaluable for determining appropriate UVR doses for therapeutic, diagnostic and/or cosmetic devices.

Evidence for a new paradigm for ultraviolet exposure: a universal schedule that is skin phototype independent.

BACKGROUND: The Food and Drug Administration has published guidelines for manufacturer-recommended exposure schedules for ultraviolet (UV) tanning, intended to limit acute and delayed damage from UV exposure. These guidelines recommend that exposure schedules be adjusted for skin phototype. However, it has been shown that the dose necessary to produce tanning is similar for phototypes 2-4. METHODS: We observed tanning in phototypes 2 and 3 from repeated UV exposures over a 5-week period. Pigmentation was evaluated visually, instrumentally, and through Fontana-Masson staining of biopsies. RESULTS: The resultant pigmentation was equal or greater in phototype 3 compared with phototype 2 - both visually and instrumentally - measured on day 31 of the exposure protocol. The amount of melanin measured in biopsies taken 24 h postexposure was also greater in phototype 3 compared with phototype 2. CONCLUSION: Published data on tanning in phototypes 4 and 5 support our findings that higher phototypes can develop pigmentation more efficiently than lower phototypes. Therefore, a universal exposure schedule (based on sensitivity of phototype 2) can be used for all phototypes that are expected to engage in indoor tanning. This approach will result in a reduction of the UV burden for skin phototypes 3 and above.

In Vitro Testing of Sunscreens for Dermal Absorption: A Platform for Product Selection for Maximal Usage Clinical Trials.

Sunscreen products contain UV filters as active ingredients for the protection of the skin against UVR. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a new proposed rule in 2019 (84.FR.6204) for sunscreens and identified the need for additional safety data for certain UV filters including their dermal absorption data. Dermal absorption data reveal systemic exposure of UV filters in humans, which can be obtained from clinical maximal usage trials. FDA guidance recommends conducting in vitro skin permeation tests (IVPTs) to help select formulations for maximal usage clinical trials as IVPT results may be indicative of in vivo absorption. This case study reports in vitro methodologies used for the selection of sunscreen products for an FDA-sponsored proof-of-concept maximal usage clinical trial. An IVPT method was developed using human cadaver skin. Commercially available sunscreen products were tested to determine the skin absorption potential of common UV filters using the IVPT. All the studied sunscreen products demonstrated a certain degree of skin absorption of UV filters using IVPT, and a formulation rank order was obtained. These sunscreen products were also characterized for several formulation properties including the globule size in emulsions, which was found to be an indicator for the rank order.

Short- and long-term effects of UV radiation on the pigmentation of human skin.

The incidence of skin cancer, including cutaneous melanoma, has risen substantially in recent years, and epidemiological and laboratory studies show that UV radiation is a major causative factor of this increase. UV damage also underlies photoaging of the skin, and these deleterious effects of UV can be, in part, prevented in skin with higher levels of constitutive pigmentation. We review the clinical studies we have made in recent years regarding the rapid and the long-term responses of the pigmentary system in human skin to UV exposure.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 32-35; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.10.

Standardization of in vitro macrophotography for assessment of cutaneous responses.

The increased popularity of commercially available three-dimensional human skin equivalents in recent years has allowed for assessment of melanogenesis modulated by compounds topically applied to the skin or directly incorporated from the medium. These skin equivalents provide a suitable model for elucidating the mechanisms of action of various factors that modulate skin pigmentation or other properties of the skin. As such, researchers need to objectively quantify cutaneous responses at the macroscopic level. A simple method to standardize macrophotography images is reported that can quantify cutaneous responses in human skin equivalents of Asian, Black or African American, and Caucasian or White racial/ethnic origin. Macrophotographs are analyzed using the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage L*a*b* color space system in combination with a personal computer and image editing software. Pigmentation changes monitored over a 9 day period showed a high correlation with melanin content evaluated in Fontana-Masson-stained sections. These results indicate the feasibility of using a macrophotography setup in a sterile tissue culture environment to objectively assess in vitro cutaneous responses in human skin equivalents. This serves as an adjunct tool to biochemical and morphological methods to effectively quantify changes in pigmentation over time.

Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation and p53 production in human skin after repeated UV irradiation.

Substantial differences in DNA damage caused by a single UV irradiation were found in our previous study on skin with different levels of constitutive pigmentation. In this study, we assessed whether facultative pigmentation induced by repeated UV irradiation is photoprotective. Three sites on the backs of 21 healthy subjects with type II-III skin were irradiated at 100-600 J/m(2) every 2-7 days over a 4- to 5-week period. The three sites received different cumulative doses of UV (1900, 2900 or 4200 J/m(2)) and were biopsied 1 day after the last irradiation. Biomarkers examined included pigment content assessed by Fontana-Masson staining, melanocyte function by expression of melanocyte-specific markers, DNA damage as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), nuclear accumulation of p53, apoptosis determined by TUNEL assay, and levels of p21 and Ser46-phosphorylated p53. Increases in melanocyte function and density, and in levels of apoptosis were similar among the 3 study sites irradiated with different cumulative UV doses. Levels of CPD decreased while the number of p53-positive cells increased as the cumulative dose of UV increased. These results suggest that pigmentation induced in skin by repeated UV irradiation protects against subsequent UV-induced DNA damage but not as effectively as constitutive pigmentation.

The Evaluation of Noninvasive Measurements of Erythema as a Potential Surrogate for DNA Damage in Repetitively UV-exposed Human Skin.

Erythema (i.e. visible redness) and DNA damage caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in human skin have similar action spectra and show good correlation after a single exposure to UVR. We explored the potential to use instrumental assessments of erythema as a surrogate for DNA damage after repeated exposures to UVR. We exposed 40 human subjects to three different exposure schedules using two different UVR sources. Cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) in skin biopsies were measured by immunofluorescence, and erythema was assessed by both the Erythemal Index (EI) and the Oxy-hemoglobin (Oxy-Hb) content. Surprisingly, the skin with the highest cumulative dose ended up with the lowest level of DNA damage, and with the least erythema, as assessed by Oxy-Hb (but not EI) 24 h after the last UV exposure. Although the level of CPDs, on average, paralleled Oxy-Hb (R2 = 0.80-0.94, P = 0.03-0.11), the correlation did not hold for the pooled individual measurements (R2 = 0.009, P = 0.37) due to potential individual differences in UV-induced photoadaptation. We suggest that the methodology may be optimized to improve the correlation between DNA damage level and erythema to enable noninvasive risk assessment based on erythema/Oxy-Hb content for individual human subjects.

Quantification of UV-induced erythema and pigmentation using computer-assisted digital image evaluation.

Photography has been used in human skin research for some time. With the advent of digital photography in recent years, its use has increased. However, the focus has now turned from documentation to actual analysis and quantification of skin color changes. The advantages of digital photography outweigh any shortcomings as long as consistent, standardized procedures are followed and quality control is implemented. We present a simple procedure to standardize images and discuss a computer-assisted digital image evaluation (CADIE) technique to quantify skin color changes following UV exposure. The CADIE approach is illustrated with examples from two different studies on UV responses in human skin. Using the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage L*a*b* color coordinate system in combination with a personal computer and image-editing software, we analyzed digital images obtained in these two studies. We demonstrate the feasibility of using digital photography for objective evaluation of UV erythema in different racial/ethnic groups and for measuring pigmentation changes caused by repeated exposures over a period of several weeks. Our results indicate how objective assessment using CADIE can be an adjunct to visual and optical observation in clinical and scientific evaluations.

Mechanisms of skin tanning in different racial/ethnic groups in response to ultraviolet radiation.

Ultraviolet radiation stimulates pigmentation in human skin, but the mechanism(s) whereby this increase in melanin production (commonly known as tanning) occurs is not well understood. Few studies have examined the molecular consequences of UV on human skin of various racial backgrounds in situ. We investigated the effects of UV on human skin of various races before and at different times after a single 1 minimal erythemal dose UV exposure. We measured the distribution of DNA damage that results, as well as the melanin content/distribution and the expression of various melanocyte-specific genes. The density of melanocytes at the epidermal:dermal junction in different types of human skin are remarkably similar and do not change significantly within 1 wk after UV exposure. The expression of melanocyte-specific proteins (including TYR (tyrosinase), TYRP1 (tyrosinase-related protein 1), DCT (tyrosinase-related protein 2), MART1 (melanoma antigens recognized by T-cells) gp100 (Pmel17/silver), and MITF (micropthalmia transcription factor)) increased from 0 to 7 d after UV exposure, but the melanin content of the skin increased only slightly. The most significant change, however, was a change in the distribution of melanin from the lower layer upwards to the middle layer of the skin, which was more dramatic in the darker skin. These results provide a basis for understanding the origin of different skin colors and responses to UV within different races.

Oculocutaneous albinism: developing novel antibodies targeting the proteins associated with OCA2 and OCA4.

BACKGROUND: Patients with oculocutaneous albinism (OCA) have severely decreased pigmentation of their skin, hair and eyes. OCA2 and OCA4 result from mutations of the OCA2 and SLC45A2 genes, respectively, both of which disrupt the trafficking of the critical melanogenic enzyme tyrosinase to melanosomes. Both proteins encoded by those loci (termed P and MATP, respectively) have 12 putative transmembrane regions and are thought to function as transporters, although their functions and subcellular localizations remain to be characterized. OBJECTIVE: To generate specific antibodies against unique synthetic peptides encoded by P and MATP that could be used to characterize their functions and subcellular localizations. METHODS: Western blotting and immunohistochemistry were used to assess the specificity of antibodies and to colocalize P and MATP proteins with various subcellular markers. RESULTS: Specific antibodies to the P and MATP proteins were generated that work well for Western blotting and immunohistochemistry. The localizations of P and MATP with various subcellular organelles were characterized using confocal microscopy, which revealed that they colocalize to some extent with LAMP2, but do not significantly colocalize with markers of the ER, Golgi or melanosomes. Interestingly, both P and MATP colocalize significantly with BLOC-1, a sorting component involved in the intracellular trafficking of melanosomal/lysosomal constituents. CONCLUSION: These results provide a basis to understand how disrupted functions of P or MATP result in the misrouting of tyrosinase and cause the hypopigmentation seen in OCA2 and OCA4.

Photobiological implications of melanin photoprotection after UVB-induced tanning of human skin but not UVA-induced tanning.

Repetitive suberythemal UVA and/or UVB exposures were used to generate comparable UV-induced tans in human skin over the course of 2 weeks. To evaluate the potential photoprotective values of those UVA- and/or UVB- induced tans and to avoid the confounding issue of residual UV-induced DNA damage, we waited 1 week before challenging those areas with a 1.5 MED of UVA+UVB after which we measure DNA damage. The results show that the type of UV used to induce skin pigmentation affects the redistribution of melanin in the skin and/or de novo melanin synthesis. The UVA-induced tans failed to even provide a minimal SPF of 1.5, which suggests that producing a tan with UVA-rich sunlamps prior to a holiday or vacation is completely counterproductive.

Identification of Genes Expressed in Hyperpigmented Skin Using Meta-Analysis of Microarray Data Sets.

More than 375 genes have been identified that are involved in regulating skin pigmentation and these act during development, survival, differentiation, and/or responses of melanocytes to the environment. Many of these genes have been cloned, and disruptions of their functions are associated with various pigmentary diseases; however, many remain to be identified. We have performed a series of microarray analyses of hyperpigmented compared with less pigmented skin to identify genes responsible for these differences. The rationale and goal for this study was to perform a meta-analysis on these microarray databases to identify genes that may be significantly involved in regulating skin phenotype either directly or indirectly that might not have been identified due to subtle differences by any of these individual studies alone. The meta-analysis demonstrates that 1,271 probes representing 921 genes are differentially expressed at significant levels in the 5 microarray data sets compared, providing new insights into the variety of genes involved in determining skin phenotype. Immunohistochemistry was used to validate two of these markers at the protein level (TRIM63 and QPCT), and we discuss the possible functions of these genes in regulating skin physiology.

NUAK2 Amplification Coupled with PTEN Deficiency Promotes Melanoma Development via CDK Activation.

The AMPK-related kinase NUAK2 has been implicated in melanoma growth and survival outcomes, but its therapeutic utility has yet to be confirmed. In this study, we show how its genetic amplification in PTEN-deficient melanomas may rationalize the use of CDK2 inhibitors as a therapeutic strategy. Analysis of array-CGH data revealed that PTEN deficiency is coupled tightly with genomic amplification encompassing the NUAK2 locus, a finding strengthened by immunohistochemical evidence that phospho-Akt overexpression was correlated with NUAK2 expression in clinical specimens of acral melanoma. Functional studies in melanoma cells showed that inactivation of the PI3K pathway upregulated p21 expression and reduced the number of cells in S phase. NUAK2 silencing and inactivation of the PI3K pathway efficiently controlled CDK2 expression, whereas CDK2 inactivation specifically abrogated the growth of NUAK2-amplified and PTEN-deficient melanoma cells. Immunohistochemical analyses confirmed an association of CDK2 expression with NUAK2 amplification and p-Akt expression in melanomas. Finally, pharmacologic inhibition of CDK2 was sufficient to suppress the growth of NUAK2-amplified and PTEN-deficient melanoma cells in vitro and in vivo. Overall, our results show how CDK2 blockade may offer a promising therapy for genetically defined melanomas, where NUAK2 is amplified and PTEN is deleted.

Essential role of the molecular chaperone gp96 in regulating melanogenesis.

Through a process known as melanogenesis, melanocyte produces melanin in specialized organelles termed melanosomes, which regulates pigmentation of the skin, eyes, and hair. Gp96 is a constitutively expressed heat shock protein in the endoplasmic reticulum whose expression is further upregulated upon ultraviolet irradiation. However, the roles and mechanisms of this chaperone in pigmentation biology are unknown. In this study, we found that knockdown of gp96 by RNA interference significantly perturbed melanin synthesis and blocked late melanosome maturation. Gp96 knockdown did not impair the expression of tyrosinase, an essential enzyme in melanin synthesis, but compromised its catalytic activity and melanosome translocation. Further, mice with melanocyte-specific deletion of gp96 displayed decreased pigmentation. A mechanistic study revealed that the defect in melanogenesis can be rescued by activation of the canonical Wnt pathway, consistent with the critical roles of gp96 in chaperoning Wnt-coreceptor LRP6. Thus, this work uncovered the essential role of gp96 in regulating melanogenesis.

Effects of cosmetic formulations containing hydroxyacids on sun-exposed skin: current applications and future developments.

This paper describes recent data on the effects of various skin formulations containing hydroxyacids (HAs) and related products on sun-exposed skin. The most frequently used classes of these products, such as α- and ß-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, are reviewed, and their application in cosmetic formulations is described. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, particularly on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. We also discuss the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Data on the effects of HAs on melanogenesis and tanning are also included. Up-to-date methods and techniques used in those explorations, as well as selected future developments in the cosmetic area, are presented.