Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIF: Le sisal est une fibre rigide courante produite dans le monde entier, correspondant à environ 70 % de la production commerciale de toutes les fibres de ce type. Les fibres sont extraites des feuilles d'Agave sisalana dont environ 4 % du poids est obtenu, les 96 % restants étant considérés comme des résidus du procédé de l'industrie du sisal. L'objectif de ce projet était d'obtenir un extrait du résidu d'A. sisalana enrichi en polyphénols par extraction assistée par ultrasons (EAU), de le caractériser chimiquement, d'évaluer l'activité antioxydante in vitro et de développer des formulations photoprotectrices sûres et stables pour une application future dans des préparations cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'extraction ultrasonique de la matière végétale solide a été effectuée avec une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (v/v). L'extrait a été chimiquement caractérisé avec un équipement de chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance associé à un réseau moléculaire (RM) classique, puis évalué pour l'activité antioxydante in vitro par différentes méthodologies. Dix formulations ont été préparées en variant les concentrations des composants et le temps de cisaillement. L'extrait de sisal à 1,0 % a été incorporé dans les formulations les plus stables et la stabilité préliminaire et accélérée a été évaluée. La sécurité d'emploi des émulsions a été étudiée en évaluant l'irritabilité et la sensibilisation cutanées accumulées primaires et l'étude clinique dermatologique de la phototoxicité et de la photosensibilisation. Le facteur de protection solaire in vivo, le facteur de protection UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et la protection contre la lumière visible et bleue ont été déterminées pour les formulations photoprotectrices contenant ou non l'extrait qui étaient stables après 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: L'extraction par ultrasons utilisant une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (EH 50) comme véhicule d'extraction a menée au meilleur rendement. L'extrait a présenté une concentration de composés phénoliques (77,93 mg d'EAG/g) et une activité antioxydante in vitro. Les émulsions sans et avec 1,0 % d'extrait de sisal sont restées stables et sans danger. L'ajout de l'extrait à la formulation photoprotectrice a statistiquement augmenté le SPF par rapport à la formulation sans extrait et a offert une protection contre les rayonnements UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et l'absorption de la lumière visible et bleue. CONCLUSION: D'après ces résultats, les résidus solides d'A. sisalana peuvent être indiqués comme composant des formulations cosmétiques photoprotectrices et antioxydantes.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVE: The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS: Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS: As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION: Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Latanoprosta e minoxidil: Estudo duplocego comparativo, placebo-controlado no tratamento da queda de cabelos / Latanoprost and minoxidil: comparative double-blind, placebo-controlled study for the treatment of hair loss

Introdução: A latanoprosta tem demonstrado potencial para o tratamento de queda de cabelos devido ao aumento da espessura e do comprimento dos cílios e hipertricose, observados com seu uso na área dos olhos. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia da latanoprosta, isolada ou em associações, na redução da queda e/ou estimulando o crescimento de cabelos em pacientes portadores de eflúvio telógeno ou alopecia androgenética. Métodos: Estudo duplo-cego comparativo, durante 180 dias, entre seis grupos: G1: placebo G2: minoxidil 5%; G3: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%; G4: latanoprosta 0,005%; G5: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010%; G6: latanoprosta 0,010%. Foi feita a contagem em fototricograma do total e percentual de fios em fase anágena e telógena. Resultados: Houve melhora para os grupos G2 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D180), G3 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D242), G4 (total de fios em D182; número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182) e G5 (total de fios em D182; percentual de fios telógenos e anágenos e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182). O Tratamento do G6 não apresentou diferença significativa em relação ao placebo. Conclusões: Os tratamentos com minoxidil 5%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%, latanoprosta 0,005%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010% se mostraram eficazes no controle da queda e no aumento total de fios.

Introduction: Latanoprost has been shown to have potential for the treatment of hair loss evidenced by increased thickness and length of eyelashes and hypertrichosis that can be observed when it is used in the periorbital region. Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of latanoprost, used isolatedly or in associations, for reducing hair loss and/or stimulating its growth in patients bearers of telogen effluvium or androgenic alopecia. Methods: A comparative, double-blind study was carried out during 180 days, with 6 groups: G1 - placebo, G2 - 5% minoxidil, G3 - 5% minoxidil + 0.005% latanoprost, G4 - 0.005% latanoprost, G5 - 5% minoxidil + 0.010% latanoprost, G6 - 0.010% latanoprost. The total and percentage count of hair strands was carried out based on phototrichogram in the anagen and telogen phases. Results: There was improvement in G2 (total number of hair strands, number of anagen strands in D92 and D180), G3 (total number of hair strands and number of anagen hair strands in D242), G4 (total number of strands in D182, and number of anagen hair strands in D92 and D182), and G5 (total number of hair strands in D182, percentage of telogen and anagen hair strands and number of anagen hair strands in D92 and D182). Treatment of G6 did not yield significant difference regarding the placebo. Conclusions: The treatments with 5% minoxidil, 5% minoxidil + 0.005% latanoprost, 0.005% latanoprost, 5% minoxidil + 0.010% latanoprost were shown effective in controlling hair loss and in increasing the total number of hair strands.