Paving the way for application of next generation risk assessment to safety decision-making for cosmetic ingredients.

Next generation risk assessment (NGRA) is an exposure-led, hypothesis-driven approach that has the potential to support animal-free safety decision-making. However, significant effort is needed to develop and test the in vitro and in silico (computational) approaches that underpin NGRA to enable confident application in a regulatory context. A workshop was held in Montreal in 2019 to discuss where effort needs to be focussed and to agree on the steps needed to ensure safety decisions made on cosmetic ingredients are robust and protective. Workshop participants explored whether NGRA for cosmetic ingredients can be protective of human health, and reviewed examples of NGRA for cosmetic ingredients. From the limited examples available, it is clear that NGRA is still in its infancy, and further case studies are needed to determine whether safety decisions are sufficiently protective and not overly conservative. Seven areas were identified to help progress application of NGRA, including further investments in case studies that elaborate on scenarios frequently encountered by industry and regulators, including those where a 'high risk' conclusion would be expected. These will provide confidence that the tools and approaches can reliably discern differing levels of risk. Furthermore, frameworks to guide performance and reporting should be developed.

Consumer protection provided by the European medical device and cosmetic legislation for condoms and lubricants.

Personal lubricants and lubricants used in condoms contain a number of ingredients which are also present in cosmetic products. These have to comply to the medical device regulation (745/2017) which should provide the same level of consumer protection, if not more, as foreseen in the legal framework of cosmetics (1223/2009). In the current study we developed an analytical method capable of identifying and quantifying 15 ingredients, commonly found in lubricants and cosmetics. Based upon their most important toxicological endpoint, the substances involved were grouped in three toxicological classes provoking either irritation, contact allergic dermatitis or systemic toxicity. The method was applied on 30 condoms and 54 personal lubricants present on the EU market. Their safety was assessed using the same reasoning as commonly applied for cosmetic ingredients. Higher mucosae susceptibility, the main exposed area for lubricants, was taken into account in this assessment. The results show that the majority of the products studied are safe. Nevertheless, for some products the safety could not be confirmed. The results also highlight the fact that there is no consensus for a number of ingredients, used as well in cosmetics as in medical devices. Alignment between both legislations would improve the safety of these products and further raise the general level of consumer protection.

Inter-laboratory study of human in vitro toxicogenomics-based tests as alternative methods for evaluating chemical carcinogenicity: a bioinformatics perspective.

The assessment of the carcinogenic potential of chemicals with alternative, human-based in vitro systems has become a major goal of toxicogenomics. The central read-out of these assays is the transcriptome, and while many studies exist that explored the gene expression responses of such systems, reports on robustness and reproducibility, when testing them independently in different laboratories, are still uncommon. Furthermore, there is limited knowledge about variability induced by the data analysis protocols. We have conducted an inter-laboratory study for testing chemical carcinogenicity evaluating two human in vitro assays: hepatoma-derived cells and hTERT-immortalized renal proximal tubule epithelial cells, representing liver and kidney as major target organs. Cellular systems were initially challenged with thirty compounds, genome-wide gene expression was measured with microarrays, and hazard classifiers were built from this training set. Subsequently, each system was independently established in three different laboratories, and gene expression measurements were conducted using anonymized compounds. Data analysis was performed independently by two separate groups applying different protocols for the assessment of inter-laboratory reproducibility and for the prediction of carcinogenic hazard. As a result, both workflows came to very similar conclusions with respect to (1) identification of experimental outliers, (2) overall assessment of robustness and inter-laboratory reproducibility and (3) re-classification of the unknown compounds to the respective toxicity classes. In summary, the developed bioinformatics workflows deliver accurate measures for inter-laboratory comparison studies, and the study can be used as guidance for validation of future carcinogenicity assays in order to implement testing of human in vitro alternatives to animal testing.

Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe.

Lightening skin tone is an ancient and well-documented practice, and remains common practice among many cultures. Whitening agents such as corticosteroids, tretinoin and hydroquinone are medically applied to effectively lighten the skin tone of hyperpigmented lesions. However, when these agents are used cosmetically, they are associated with a variety of side-effect. Alternative agents, such as arbutin and its derivatives kojic acid and nicotinamide have been subsequently developed for cosmetic purposes. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain whitening agents that are banned for use in cosmetic products. This article provides an overview of the mode of action and potential side-effects of cosmetic legal and illegal whitening agents, and the pattern of use of these types of products. Finally, an EU analysis of the health problems due to the presence of illegal products on the market is summarized.

Proposal of an in silico profiler for categorisation of repeat dose toxicity data of hair dyes.

This study outlines the analysis of 94 chemicals with repeat dose toxicity data taken from Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety opinions for commonly used hair dyes in the European Union. Structural similarity was applied to group these chemicals into categories. Subsequent mechanistic analysis suggested that toxicity to mitochondria is potentially a key driver of repeat dose toxicity for chemicals within each of the categories. The mechanistic hypothesis allowed for an in silico profiler consisting of four mechanism-based structural alerts to be proposed. These structural alerts related to a number of important chemical classes such as quinones, anthraquinones, substituted nitrobenzenes and aromatic azos. This in silico profiler is intended for grouping chemicals into mechanism-based categories within the adverse outcome pathway paradigm.

Practical problems encountered during the cultivation of an open-source reconstructed human epidermis model on a polycarbonate membrane and protein quantification.

During recent years, the importance of in vitro technology in skin research has increased significantly. A variety of skin culture models have been developed and commercialized. In this respect, the availability of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) equivalents represents a significant improvement compared to the use of monolayer cultures. However, when an in-house RHE model is being developed, researchers might encounter some difficulties during cultivation. The scope of this paper is to report our experiences and practical problems with the development of a three-dimensional RHE model cultured on a polycarbonate membrane. Some important issues including cell density, the use of lysing enzymes, culture media, cell storage and viability, cell confluency and protein extraction are reported and optional solutions are given.

Silicones as nonocclusive topical agents.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Silicone excipients are commonly used ingredients because of their emollient and skin-conditioning effects, and their ability to form uniform, water-resistant, yet permeable films. Based on comparisons with organic materials and conflicting knowledge from silicones used in scar treatment, the misconception still exists that silicone topical excipients are occlusive substances that may block the passive loss of water through the upper skin layers. Therefore, 3 types of common silicone excipients and 3 water-in-(oil-plus-silicone) or W/(O + Si) creams, containing 10% (w/w) of the respective silicones, were investigated as a function of time and compared to petrolatum. METHODS: Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration measurements were carried out after a single topical application on forearm skin of 26 healthy young female volunteers. RESULTS: Both petrolatum and silicones significantly decreased TEWL 15 min after application, but the measurements for the silicones were not significantly different from the untreated control values. The tested silicones did not moisturize the skin. Petrolatum formed an occlusive layer, creating an increase in skin hydration for more than 4 h. The results measured for the W/(O + Si) creams indicated that they moisturized the skin, without any effect on TEWL. CONCLUSION: A clear difference was shown between the skin occlusive properties of petrolatum and the water vapor permeability of the common silicone excipient materials.

Current status of healthy human skin models: can histone deacetylase inhibitors potentially improve the present replacement models?

Histone deacetylase inhibitors (HDACi), a relatively new group of epigenetic agents, are being investigated as powerful chemotherapeutics because of their antiproliferative and prodifferentiation effects both in vitro and in vivo, in various tumor cell lines. Only little is known with respect to their effects on normal cells. Yet, to understand tissue pathology and evaluate potential effects of new chemical entities in tissue homeostasis, insight into the physiology of healthy tissue is necessary. Therefore, this review addresses the effects of HDACi on healthy human primary skin cell cultures and three-dimensional epidermal models. In general, HDACi exert an effect on both the epidermal morphology and differentiation process of human skin. The latter is manifested through cell cycle arrest, disorganization of the basal layer, thinning of the stratum spinosum and thickening of the stratum corneum, reorganization of the cytoskeleton and increased formation of cornified envelopes. This overview shows that, although only a limited number of reports exist, these molecules might be an interesting tool for the development and study of new human skin models.

Primary hepatocyte cultures for pharmaco-toxicological studies: at the busy crossroad of various anti-dedifferentiation strategies.

Continuously increasing understanding of the molecular triggers responsible for the onset of diseases, paralleled by an equally dynamic evolution of chemical synthesis and screening methods, offers an abundance of pharmacological agents with a potential to become new successful drugs. However, before patients can benefit of newly developed pharmaceuticals, stringent safety filters need to be applied to weed out unfavourable drug candidates. Cost effectiveness and the need to identify compound liabilities, without exposing humans to unnecessary risks, has stimulated the shift of the safety studies to the earliest stages of drug discovery and development. In this regard, in vivo relevant organotypic in vitro models have high potential to revolutionize the preclinical safety testing. They can enable automation of the process, to match the requirements of high-throughput screening approaches, while satisfying ethical considerations. Cultures of primary hepatocytes became already an inherent part of the preclinical pharmaco-toxicological testing battery, yet their routine use, particularly for long-term assays, is limited by the progressive deterioration of liver-specific features. The availability of suitable hepatic and other organ-specific in vitro models is, however, of paramount importance in the light of changing European legal regulations in the field of chemical compounds of different origin, which gradually restrict the use of animal studies for safety assessment, as currently witnessed in cosmetic industry. Fortunately, research groups worldwide spare no effort to establish hepatic in vitro systems. In the present review, both classical and innovative methodologies to stabilize the in vivo-like hepatocyte phenotype in culture of primary hepatocytes are presented and discussed.

Human health safety evaluation of cosmetics in the EU: a legally imposed challenge to science.

As stated in the European legislation, cosmetic products present on the European market must be safe for the consumer. Safety evaluation of the products is carried out by a qualified safety assessor who needs to consider potential exposure scenarios next to the physicochemical and toxicological profiles of all composing ingredients. Whereas, until recently, the tools to determine the toxicological profile of cosmetic ingredients mainly consisted of animal experiments, they have now been narrowed down substantially by the legally imposed animal testing ban on cosmetic ingredients, taken up in the Cosmetic Products Directive (76/768/EEC). This Directive, however, is not a stand-alone piece of European legislation, since as well directly as indirectly it is influenced by a complex web of related legislations. Vertical legislations deal with different categories of chemicals, including dangerous substances, biocides, plant protection products, food additives, medicinal products, and of course also cosmetics. Horizontal legislative texts, on the contrary, cover more general fields such as protection of experimental animals, consumer product safety, misleading of consumers, specific provisions for aerosols, and others. Experience has learnt that having a general overview of these related legislations is necessary to understand their impact on the cosmetic world in general terms and on cosmetic safety evaluation in particular. This goes for a variety of concerned parties, including national and European regulators/agencies, contract laboratories, raw material suppliers, cosmetic companies, research and educational centers. They all deal with a number of aspects important for the quality and toxicity of cosmetics and their ingredients. This review summarises the most relevant points of the legislative texts of different types of product categories and emphasises their impact on the safety evaluation of cosmetics.

Skin efficacy and biophysical assessment of glycerol-containing hydrocolloid patches.

Hydrocolloid patches are developed with 10, 20 and 30% (w/w) glycerol as the main active ingredient. By making use of two experimental forearm models, skin efficacy and its dependency on the glycerol concentration applied were compared with a blank reference patch, a commercialized protective patch and a cosmetic barrier cream. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss measurements were combined with skin erythema assessments. After a single application to healthy skin, a clear concentration-dependent effect of glycerol-containing patches was observed with - for the highest glycerol content - a 31% increase in skin hydration and an improvement in skin barrier properties of 15%. This glycerol-containing patch also accelerated barrier recovery of mechanically irritated skin after stripping with cyanoacrylate tape. After 7 days of repetitive application, a significantly hydrating effect of the 30% glycerol-containing patch was observed, which was of the same order of magnitude as observed for the cosmetic barrier cream, the latter being applied twice daily. The effects seen were maximal after 3 days of patch application.

Seasonal effects on the nasolabial skin condition.

In the present work, nasolabial skin condition and the influence of seasonal changes during autumn and winter were studied in 16 healthy female volunteers. Apart from visual scoring of erythema and skin scaliness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, apparent skin pH, skin colour and skin desquamation were biophysically measured. The study results showed that nasolabial TEWL was significantly higher during wintertime than in autumn. Also skin colour measurements and squamometry scorings revealed higher values, indicating a more reddish and scaly nasolabial skin during winter compared to autumn. Results from tape stripping and skin surface lipid analysis by high-performance thin-layer chromatography demonstrated significant differences for triglycerides and cholesterol esters, indicating a functionally inferior hydrolipidic layer during the winter season.

Epidermal ceramidase activity regulates epidermal desquamation via stratum corneum acidification.

The acidic pH of the outer surface of the mammalian skin plays several important roles in the epidermal barrier function. The 2 endogenous pathways that are currently known to elicit this acidic pH are the generation of free fatty acids from phospholipids and the exchange of protons for sodium ions by non-energy-dependent sodium-proton exchangers. In this study, we propose a third endogenous pathway, i.e. epidermal ceramidase activity, generating free fatty acids from ceramides. By topical application of N-oleylethanolamine, a well-known ceramidase inhibitor, we could demonstrate a significant increase in the stratum corneum pH and a corresponding decrease in the epidermal free fatty acid content. Moreover, we could show that the resulting change in the apparent skin pH also provoked a delay in early barrier recovery and an increased epidermal desquamation, corresponding to earlier observations made for the already known endogenous mechanisms.

Workshop on acceleration of the validation and regulatory acceptance of alternative methods and implementation of testing strategies.

This report describes the proceedings of the BfR-RIVM workshop on validation of alternative methods which was held 23 and 24 March 2017 in Berlin, Germany. Stakeholders from governmental agencies, regulatory authorities, universities, industry and the OECD were invited to discuss current problems concerning the regulatory acceptance and implementation of alternative test methods and testing strategies, with the aim to develop feasible solutions. Classical validation of alternative methods usually involves one to one comparison with the gold standard animal study. This approach suffers from the reductionist nature of an alternative test as compared to the animal study as well as from the animal study being considered as the gold standard. Modern approaches combine individual alternatives into testing strategies, for which integrated and defined approaches are emerging at OECD. Furthermore, progress in mechanistic toxicology, e.g. through the adverse outcome pathway approach, and in computational systems toxicology allows integration of alternative test battery results into toxicity predictions that are more fine-tuned to the human situation. The road towards transition to a mechanistically-based human-focused hazard and risk assessment of chemicals requires an open mind towards stepping away from the animal study as the gold standard and defining human biologically based regulatory requirements for human hazard and risk assessment.

Inhibition of NF-kappaB activation by the histone deacetylase inhibitor 4-Me2N-BAVAH induces an early G1 cell cycle arrest in primary hepatocytes.

OBJECTIVE: Benzoylaminoalkanohydroxamic acids, including 5-(4-dimethylaminobenzoyl)aminovaleric acid hydroxamide (4-Me(2)N-BAVAH), are structural analogues of Trichostatin A, a naturally occurring histone deacetylase inhibitor (HDACi). 4-Me(2)N-BAVAH has been shown to induce histone hyperacetylation and to inhibit proliferation in Friend erythroleukaemia cells in vitro. However, the molecular mechanisms have remained unidentified. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In this study, we evaluated the effects of 4-Me(2)N-BAVAH on proliferation in non-malignant cells, namely epidermal growth factor-stimulated primary rat hepatocytes. RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: We have found that 4-Me(2)N-BAVAH inhibits HDAC activity at non-cytotoxic concentrations and prevents cells from responding to the mitogenic stimuli of epidermal growth factor. This results in an early G(1) cell cycle arrest that is independent of p21 activity, but instead can be attributed to inhibition of cyclin D1 transcription through a mechanism involving inhibition of nuclear factor-kappaB activation. In addition, 4-Me(2)N-BAVAH delays the onset of spontaneous apoptosis in primary rat hepatocyte cultures as evidenced by down-regulation of the pro-apoptotic proteins Bid and Bax, and inhibition of caspase-3 activation.

Coatings in food contact materials: Potential source of genotoxic contaminants?

Up till now, no harmonized EU regulation exists on chemicals used in coatings for food contact materials (FCM). Therefore, these substances need to comply with the general provisions of EU Regulation 1935/2004 and, if present, with national legislation. Different 'inventory lists' of compounds that might be present in coatings are available, but for hundreds of these substances, the potential human health impact of their use in FCM coatings has not (recently) been evaluated. Since detailed evaluation of all compounds is not feasible, a pragmatic approach was developed to identify substances with a potential concern for human health. First, an inventory was assembled containing all substances potentially used in coatings. Afterwards, the genotoxic potential of the non-evaluated substances was predicted in silico using two structure-activity relationship (SAR) software programs. For substances yielding structural alerts in both models, genotoxicity data were collected from previous European evaluations in a non-FCM context and from the European CHemicals Agency (ECHA) website. In total, 53 substances were identified as genotoxic in both in silico models, of which ten were considered to be of high concern. For most of the substances, additional toxicological information is needed.

Effect of oral intake of choline-stabilized orthosilicic acid on skin, nails and hair in women with photodamaged skin.

Chronic exposure of the skin to sunlight causes damage to the underlying connective tissue with a loss of elasticity and firmness. Silicon (Si) was suggested to have an important function in the formation and maintenance of connective tissue. Choline-stabilized orthosilicic acid ("ch-OSA") is a bioavailable form of silicon which was found to increase the hydroxyproline concentration in the dermis of animals. The effect of ch-OSA on skin, nails and hair was investigated in a randomized, double blind, placebo-controlled study. Fifty women with photodamaged facial skin were administered orally during 20 weeks, 10 mg Si/day in the form of ch-OSA pellets (n=25) or a placebo (n=25). Noninvasive methods were used to evaluate skin microrelief (forearm), hydration (forearm) and mechanical anisotropy (forehead). Volunteers evaluated on a virtual analog scale (VAS, "none=0, severe=3") brittleness of hair and nails. The serum Si concentration was significantly higher after a 20-week supplementation in subjects with ch-OSA compared to the placebo group. Skin roughness parameters increased in the placebo group (Rt:+8%; Rm: +11%; Rz: +6%) but decreased in the ch-OSA group (Rt: -16%; Rm: -19%; Rz: -8%). The change in roughness from baseline was significantly different between ch-OSA and placebo groups for Rt and Rm. The difference in longitudinal and lateral shear propagation time increased after 20 weeks in the placebo group but decreased in the ch-OSA group suggesting improvement in isotropy of the skin. VAS scores for nail and hair brittleness were significantly lower after 20 weeks in the ch-OSA group compared to baseline scores. Oral intake of ch-OSA during the 20 weeks results in a significant positive effect on skin surface and skin mechanical properties, and on brittleness of hair and nails.

HS-GC-MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices.

Potential allergenic fragrances are part of the Cosmetic Regulation with labelling and concentration restrictions. This means that they have to be declared on the ingredients list, when their concentration exceeds the labelling limit of 10 ppm or 100 ppm for leave-on or rinse-off cosmetics, respectively. Labelling is important regarding consumer safety. In this way, sensitised people towards fragrances might select their products based on the ingredients list to prevent elicitation of an allergic reaction. It is therefore important to quantify potential allergenic ingredients in cosmetic products. An easy to perform liquid extraction was developed, combined with a new headspace GC-MS method. The latter was capable of analysing 24 volatile allergenic fragrances in complex cosmetic formulations, such as hydrophilic (O/W) and lipophilic (W/O) creams, lotions and gels. This method was successfully validated using the total error approach. The trueness deviations for all components were smaller than 8%, and the expectation tolerance limits did not exceed the acceptance limits of ± 20% at the labelling limit. The current methodology was used to analyse 18 cosmetic samples that were already identified as being illegal on the EU market for containing forbidden skin whitening substances. Our results showed that these cosmetic products also contained undeclared fragrances above the limit value for labelling, which imposes an additional health risk for the consumer.