Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 Ginkgo biloba-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents or antioxidants. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel was concerned about the presence of ginkgolic acid in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that 5 Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing; data are insufficient to determine the safety of the remaining 5 ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Hops as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (reported functions include antimicrobial agent and hair conditioning agent) and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil (reported function is fragrance). The Panel reviewed the relevant data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. For these ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of 8-prenylnaringenin, ß-myrcene, and quercetin in cosmetics, which could result in estrogenic effects, dermal irritation, and genotoxicity, respectively. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and constituents of concern. The Panel concluded that Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Amended Safety Assessment of Mentha piperita (Peppermint)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of M piperita (peppermint)-derived ingredients. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituent(s) of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that M piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Extract, Leaf, and leaf-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing, and that the available data are insufficient for determining that M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, and M piperita (Peppermint) Meristem Cell Culture are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 2004, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 2001, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use, and confirmed that Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report, provided that established and imposed limits on gossypol, heavy metals, and pesticide concentrations are not exceeded.

Safety Assessment of Apple-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 26 apple-derived ingredients, which reportedly function mostly as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. Because apple-derived ingredients may be obtained from different apple cultivars, the composition of ingredients derived from different cultivars should be similar to that of ingredients reviewed in this safety assessment. Additionally, industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients and concluded that 21 of these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment. However, the Panel also determined that the available data are insufficient to determine the safety of Pyrus Malus (Apple) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (or Malus Domestica) (Apple) Stem Extract, Malus Domestica (Apple) Callus Extract, and Malus Domestica (Apple) Oil.

Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 9 Centella asiatica-derived ingredients, which reportedly function primarily as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded that Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Callus Culture, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture Extract, and Centella Asiatica Root Extract are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics, as described in this safety assessment, when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Proteins and Peptides as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 19 plant-derived proteins and peptides, which function mainly as skin and/or hair conditioning agents in personal care products. The Panel concluded that 18 plant-derived proteins and peptides are safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this safety assessment, while the data on Hydrolyzed Maple Sycamore Protein are insufficient to determine safety.

The biotransformation of Bupleuri Radix by human gut microbiota.

1. Bupleuri Radix (BR) is a herbal medicine traditionally used orally in oriental countries, which inevitably comes into contact with the intestinal microbiota. However, whether gut microbiota contribute to the biotransformation of BR, and/or the formation of pharmacologically active compounds remains unknown.2. In this study, the main saikosaponins (SAPs) of Bupleurum (including saikosaponin a, b1, b2, c, d, f, h) and BR extract (BRE) were individually incubated with human fecal suspensions (HFS), and metabolic time courses of SAPs and their metabolites by human gut bacteria were systematically characterized.3. Deglycosylation and dehydration were the main metabolic pathways identified for SAPs including newly investigated saikosaponin f (SSf) and saikosaponin h (SSh); dehydration had not been reported previously. A total of 19 dehydrated and deglycosylated metabolites of SAPs were detected and characterized, and 10 of them were newly identified. Moreover, SAPs of BRE were found to be deglycosylated to prosaikogenins. In addition, 13 metabolic pathways related to human gut microbiota were identified for phytochemicals of BRE except for SAPs. Gut microbiota may play a significant role in the biotransformation of BR in humans.

Safety Assessment of Camellia sinensis-Derived Ingredients As Used in Cosmetics.

Cosmetic ingredients derived from Camellia sinensis (tea) plant parts function as antioxidants and skin conditioning agents-humectant and miscellaneous. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed relevant animal and human data related to these ingredients. The use of the leaf ingredients in beverages results in much larger systemic exposures than those possible from cosmetic use. Accordingly, concern over the systemic toxicity potential of leaf-derived ingredients is mitigated. Because product formulations may contain multiple botanical ingredients, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may lead to sensitization or other toxic effects. The Panel concluded that the C sinensis leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonsensitizing. However, the available data are insufficient to determine whether the non-leaf-derived ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics.

Safety Assessment of Avena sativa (Oat)-Derived Ingredients As Used in Cosmetics.

This is a safety assessment of Avena sativa (oat)-derived ingredients. The reported functions of these ingredients in cosmetics include abrasives, antioxidant, skin conditioning agents, absorbents, and bulking agents. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may lead to sensitization or other toxic effects. The Panel stated that industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and concluded that all but one of the Avena sativa (oat)-derived ingredients are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonsensitizing; data are insufficient to come to a conclusion of safety for Avena Sativa (Oat) Meristem Cell Extract.

Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed the safety of 14 citrus-derived peel oil ingredients and concluded that these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic products when finished products, excluding rinse-off products, do not contain more than 0.0015% (15 ppm) 5-methoxypsoralen, and when formulated to be nonsensitizing and nonirritating. The citrus-derived peel oil ingredients are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as fragrances and/or skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients.

Oleanolic acid reprograms the liver to protect against hepatotoxicants, but is hepatotoxic at high doses.

Oleanolic acid (OA) is a triterpenoid that exists widely in fruits, vegetables and medicinal herbs. OA is included in some dietary supplements and is used as a complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) in China, India, Asia, the USA and European countries. OA is effective in protecting against various hepatotoxicants, and one of the protective mechanisms is reprogramming the liver to activate the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2). OA derivatives, such as CDDO-Im and CDDO-Me, are even more potent Nrf2 activators. OA has recently been shown to also activate the Takeda G-protein-coupled receptor (TGR5). However, whereas a low dose of OA is hepatoprotective, higher doses and long-term use of OA can produce liver injury, characterized by cholestasis. This paradoxical hepatotoxic effect occurs not only for OA, but also for other OA-type triterpenoids. Dose and length of time of OA exposure differentiate the ability of OA to produce hepatoprotection vs hepatotoxicity. Hepatotoxicity produced by herbs is increasingly recognized and is of global concern. Given the appealing nature of OA in dietary supplements and its use as an alternative medicine around the world, as well as the development of OA derivatives (CDDO-Im and CDDO-Me) as therapeutics, it is important to understand not only that they program the liver to protect against hepatotoxic chemicals, but also how they produce hepatotoxicity.

From the Cover: Identification of Natural Products as Inhibitors of Human Organic Anion Transporters (OAT1 and OAT3) and Their Protective Effect on Mercury-Induced Toxicity.

Mercury accumulates in kidneys and produces acute kidney injury. Semen cassiae (SC), a widely consumed tea and herbal medicine in Eastern Asia, has been reported to have protective effects on kidneys. In this study, SC extract was shown to almost abolish the histological alterations induced by mercuric chloride in rat kidneys. A total of 22 compounds were isolated from SC, and 1,7,8-methoxyl-2-hydroxyl-3-methyl-anthraquinone was detected in SC for the first time. Among the eight compounds identified in the blood of rats after SC treatment, six were strong inhibitors of human organic anion transporter 1 and 3 (OAT1 and OAT3). Inhibitory studies revealed that OAT1 and OAT3 were inhibited by SC constituents, in both a competitive and noncompetitive manner. Both OAT1- and OAT3-overexpressing cells were susceptible to the cytotoxicity of the cysteine-mercury conjugate, but only OAT1-overexpressing cells could be protected by 200 µM probenecid or 10 µM of the eight inhibitors in SC, suggesting that OAT1 is the major determinant in the cellular uptake of mercury. To facilitate the identification of inhibitors of OAT1 and OAT3, models of OAT1 and OAT3 were constructed using recently determined protein templates. By combining in silico and in vitro methods, inhibitors of OAT1 and OAT3 were predicted and validated from SC constituents. Collectively, the present study suggests that additional inhibitors of OAT1 and OAT3 can be predicted and validated from natural products by combining docking and in vitro screening, and could be a source of pharmaceutical compounds for developing treatments for mercury-induced kidney injury.

Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils as used in cosmetics. Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties. Since many of these oils are edible, and their systemic toxicity potential is low, the review focused on potential dermal effects. The Panel concluded that the 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils are safe as used in cosmetics.

Safety Assessment of Anthemis nobilis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

Anthemis nobilis (Roman chamomile) flower extract, anthemis nobilis flower oil, anthemis nobilis flower powder, and anthemis nobilis flower water are ingredients that function as fragrance ingredients and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products. These ingredients are being used at concentrations up to 10% (anthemis nobilis flower water) in cosmetic products. The available data indicate that these 4 ingredients are not irritating or sensitizing. Chemical composition data and the low use concentrations suggest that systemic toxicity would not be likely if percutaneous absorption of constituents were to occur. Formulations may contain more than 1 botanical ingredient; each may contribute to the final concentration of a single component. Manufacturers were cautioned to avoid reaching levels of plant constituents that may cause sensitization or other adverse effects. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities in the ingredient before blending into cosmetic formulations. The Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics, when formulated to be nonsensitizing.

Persistent alterations in immune cell populations and function from a single dose of perfluorononanoic acid (PFNA) in C57Bl/6 mice.

Perfluorononanoic acid (PFNA) is a perfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS) that is structurally related to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS). Whereas PFOA and PFOS are known immunotoxicants, PFNA is less well characterized. Our previous study showed that PFNA has immunomodulatory effects on leukocyte populations and immune function. The present studies sought to determine whether, and to what degree, the immune system recovered 28 days after PFNA exposure. None of the parameters measured had fully recovered. A few parameters had partially recovered, including decreased spleen size and the decreased ratio of the CD4+/CD8+ double-positive population in thymus. The majority of effects of PFNA remained unchanged 28 days after exposure, including decreased proportion of intact thymocytes (as determined by FSC vs SSC), alterations in the ratios of immune cell populations in spleen and the CD4+, CD8+ and double-negative populations in thymus. Notably, PFNA markedly increased the TNFα response to LPS in vivo, and no recovery was evident 28 days after exposure. The effect of PFNA on CD4+ T cells, CD8+ T cells and CD19+ cells was more pronounced in females. The current study demonstrates that a single high dose exposure to PFNA (e.g. as might occur accidentally in an occupational setting) has long-lasting effects on the immune system.

Safety Assessment of Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics.

This is a safety assessment of alumina and aluminum hydroxide as used in cosmetics. Alumina functions as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking agent, bulking agent, and opacifying agent. Aluminum hydroxide functions as a buffering agent, corrosion inhibitor, and pH adjuster. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) evaluated the safe use of alumina in several medical devices and aluminum hydroxide in over-the-counter drugs, which included a review of human and animal safety data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered the FDA evaluations as part of the basis for determining the safety of these ingredients as used in cosmetics. Alumina used in cosmetics is essentially the same as that used in medical devices. This safety assessment does not include metallic or elemental aluminum as a cosmetic ingredient. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that alumina and aluminum hydroxide are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Achillea millefolium as Used in Cosmetics.

Cosmetic ingredients derived from Achillea millefolium function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents-miscellaneous, skin-conditioning agents-humectants, and fragrance ingredients. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed relevant animal and human data to determine their safety in cosmetics and raised concerns about cosmetics containing linalool, thujone, quercetin, hydroquinone, or α-peroxyachifolid. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these components and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Additionally, industry was advised to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that achillea millefolium extract, achillea millefolium flower extract, and achillea millefolium flower/leaf/stem extract are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be nonsensitizing.

Dose-response effect of berberine on bile acid profile and gut microbiota in mice.

BACKGROUND: Berberine (BBR) is a traditional antimicrobial herbal medicine. Recently, BBR has gained popularity as a supplement to lower blood lipids, cholesterol and glucose. Bile acids (BAs) are known to regulate blood levels of triglycerides, cholesterol, glucose and energy homeostasis, and gut flora play an important role in BA metabolism. However, whether BBR alters BAs metabolism or dose-response effect of BBR on gut flora is unknown. METHODS: In this study, the effects of various doses of BBR on the concentrations of BAs in liver and serum of male C57BL/6 mice were determined by UPLC-MS/MS, and the expression of BA-related genes, as well as the amount of 32 of the most abundant gut bacterial species in the terminal ileum and large intestine of male C57BL/6 mice were quantified by RT-PCR and Quantigene 2.0 Reagent System, respectively. RESULTS: Unconjugated BAs and total BAs were significantly altered by BBR in serum but not in liver. Increased primary BAs (ßMCA, TßMCA and TUDCA) and decreased secondary BAs (DCA, LCA and the T-conjugates) were observed in livers and serum of mice fed BBR. The expression of BA-synthetic enzymes (Cyp7a1 and 8b1) and uptake transporter (Ntcp) increased 39-400 % in liver of mice fed the higher doses of BBR, whereas nuclear receptors and efflux transporters were not markedly altered. In addition, Bacteroides were enriched in the terminal ileum and large bowel of mice treated with BBR. CONCLUSION: The present study indicated that various doses of BBR have effects on BA metabolism and related genes as well as intestinal flora, which provides insight into many pathways of BBR effects.