ABSTRACT
Down-regulation of melanin synthesis and\or melanin transfer are/is required for recovery of pigmentary disorders. It is known that direct inhibitors of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis, such as hydroquinone with a phenol structure, suppress melanin synthesis. We screened some herbal monomers using human melanocytes and found that paeonol, a major phenolic component of Moutan Cortex, down-regulated melanin synthesis. The melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity were inhibited by paeonol in a dose-dependent manner. The expression levels of tyrosinase mRNA and protein were also reduced by paeonol. We further studied the inhibitory effects of paeonol on melanin transfer in co-culture of melanocytes and keratinocytes. More than 50% of inhibition of melanin transfer was observed at concentration of 200 microM of paeonol and the increased melanin transfer induced by SLIGRL, the PAR-2 activating peptide, was also reduced by paeonol. However, paeonol did not influence the expression level of PAR-2 mRNA in co-culture cells. These results indicate that the depigmenting effect of paeonol might be due to its down-regulation of melanogenesis and melanin transfer.