The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Saving the local tradition: ethnobotanical survey on the use of plants in Bologna district (Italy).

BACKGROUND: Traditional knowledge about plants is unfortunately subjected to a progressive loss, mainly due to globalization and depopulation of the rural areas. This work enhances the ethnobotanical knowledge from Northern Italy, specifically Bologna district, and contributes to preserving Italy's plant-based traditional knowledge and to valorize local resources also in view of an ecological transition. METHODS: The study was conducted between 2010 and 2016 in Bologna district encompassing 22 municipalities, which were grouped into three areas: hill, mountain, and plain. In total, 1172 key informants were interviewed, ranging in age from 50 to 85 years, and having strong links with traditional activities in the area. RESULTS: The final inventory included 374 taxa belonging to 91 families. Among these, 251 were wild native, 40 wild alien, 74 cultivated and 6 were products bought from the market. Hill, mountain, and plain provided information on 278, 213, and 110 taxa, respectively. The most cited families were Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, and Rosaceae. The information was systematized in 12 use categories (UC): medicinal (MED), food, cosmetic, domestic, superstitious-magical-religious (SMR), agropastoral, craft, repellent-insecticide, veterinary, toxic, games, other uses and information. The most relevant UC were in turn divided into subcategories. A descriptive table with all the results was also created. MED was the most relevant UC (310 taxa), and among the 17 MED subcategories, the most significant ones were: gastroenteric (160 taxa), respiratory (133 taxa), and dermatologic (122 taxa). Food was also relevant (197 taxa, and 16 subcategories), and the widest food subcategory was nutraceutical (98 taxa). In cosmetic, the most relevant subcategory was skin treatment (37 taxa). Within SMR, the majority of the plants were cited to heal a disease in a ritual or superstitious way (15 taxa), while for agropastoral, the majority of the taxa (29) were cited as feed. CONCLUSIONS: The data collected has highlighted a significant traditional use of plants in Bologna district. Some plants or uses emerged for the first time from an ethnobotanical study carried out in Italy. The inclusion of a large number of municipalities and informants enabled the collection of a wide spectrum of data, encompassing various uses, anecdotes, and historical curiosities, which are crucial to preserve from being forgotten.

Humulus lupulus aqueous extract and hydrolate as a potential ingredient for cosmetics: chemical characterization and in vitro antimicrobial, cytotoxicity, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory assessment.

Humulus lupulus extracts have in their composition different molecules, such as polyphenols, α-acids, ß-acids, and hydrocarbons, which contribute to the plant's medicinal properties. These molecules are associated with antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. OBJECTIVE: This work focuses on the evaluation of H. lupulus biological activities, with the aim of evaluating its potential for inclusion in cosmetic formulations. METHODS: Two distinct aqueous extracts and two hydrolates obtained via hydrodistillation were evaluated. These include the flower parts (FE, FH) and the mix of aboveground parts (ME, MH). The chemical profiles for both aqueous extracts and hydrolates were identified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Antimicrobial, antioxidant, cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory activity were tested in vitro using standard methods. RESULTS: Rutin was the major compound found in FE (40.041 µg mg-1 of extract) and ME (2.909 µg mg-1 of extract), while humulenol II was the most abundant compound in hydrolates (FH: 20.83%; MH: 46.80%). Furthermore, FE was able to inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermis with MIC values of 50% and 25% (v/v), respectively. FH showed the same effect in Staphylococcus aureus (50% v/v). FH evidenced poor antioxidant potential in DPPH scavenging test and demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects by reducing (***p < 0.001) intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), NO (nitric oxide) levels (***p < 0.001) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) protein expression (***p < 0.001) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophages. Nevertheless, it is important to note that FH exhibited cytotoxicity at high concentrations in 3T3 fibroblasts and RAW 264.7 macrophages. CONCLUSION: The studied H. lupulus aqueous extracts and hydrolates revealed that FH stands out as the most promising bioactive source for cosmetic formulations. However, future research addressing antimicrobial activity is necessary to confirm its potential incorporation into dermatological and cosmetic formulations.

Conventional and Scientific uses of Rice-washed water: A Systematic Review.

Rice is considered the king of cereals. It is the only cereal that is being consumed by half of the population in the world. Rice and rice products have potential health benefits. One such rice aided product is rice washed water which is discussed in this article. Rice-washed water, which is commonly regarded as waste water and discarded, is a rich source of minerals and nutrients. The processing of rice washed water, nutritional analysis; edible fungi productions are detailed in this review. The article goes into detail about rice-washed water, which has been used for various purposes since our ancestors' time. The article provides a comprehensive report on the uses of rice-washed water in plant growth, Ayurveda, food, Cosmetics and a variety of other applications. Rice washed water is being utilized for various ailments since primitive times. The detailed report on the treatment utilizing rice washed water is also provided in this article. There are scarce researches with rice washed water, this article address the conventional uses of rice washed water, which can be taken up by the research community which needs more scientific validation. This review article also includes details about the composition and a variety of other important information about rice-washed water. Supplementary Information: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13197-023-05722-2.

A Comprehensive Review on Niosomes as a Strategy in Targeted Drug Delivery: Pharmaceutical, and Herbal Cosmetic Applications.

Niosomes are newly developed, self-assembling sac-like transporters that deliver medication at a specific site in a focused manner, increasing availability in the body and prolonging healing effects. Niosome discovery has increased drugs' therapeutic effectiveness while also reducing adverse effects. This article aims to concentrate on the increase in the worldwide utilization of niosomal formulation. This overview presents a thorough perspective of niosomal investigation up until now, encompassing categories and production techniques, their significance in pharmaceutical transportation, and cosmetic use. The thorough literature review revealed that extensive attention has been given to developing nanocarriers for drug delivery as they hold immense endeavor to attain targeted delivery to the affected area simultaneously shielding the adjacent healthy tissue. Many reviews and research papers have been published that demonstrate the interest of scientists in niosomes. Phytoconstituents, which possess antioxidant, antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, anti-acne, and skin whitening properties, are also encapsulated into niosome. Their flexibility allows for the incorporation of various therapeutic agents, including small molecules, proteins, and peptides making them adaptable for different types of drugs. Niosomes can be modified with ligands, enhancing their targeting capabilities. A flexible drug delivery mechanism provided by non-ionic vesicles, which are self-assembling vesicular nano-carriers created from hydrating non-ionic surfactant, cholesterol, or amphiphilic compounds along comprehensive applications such as transdermal and brain-targeted delivery.

Safety of dermatologic medications in pregnancy and lactation: An update-Part II: Lactation.

Multiple recently approved medications have been added to our treatment armamentarium for various dermatologic conditions. Herein, we have reviewed the literature, consolidated available safety data, and offered recommendations based upon available evidence as a reference guide for clinicians treating patients for dermatologic conditions during lactation.

Efficacy of castor oil cream in treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation: An exploratory single-arm clinical trial.

INTRODUCTION: Infraorbital hyperpigmentation represents one of the most prevalent conditions in cosmetic dermatology. To treat this condition, many patients prefer natural remedies. This study explored the efficacy of topical castor oil cream in treating patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. METHODS: We conducted an exploratory single-arm clinical trial at the Shahid Faghihi Dermatology Clinic and Molecular Dermatology Research Center of Shiraz University of Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran, during 2021-2022. Using the convenience sampling method, we enrolled 25 patients with infraorbital hyperpigmentation. We instructed the patients to apply topical castor oil cream twice daily for 2 months. The darkness, melanin, and erythema levels were evaluated by VisioFace® 1000 D and SkinColorCatch® devices. We used a visual analog scale to assess skin laxity, wrinkles, and patient satisfaction. Data analysis was done with Stata version 14.2. RESULTS: The data of 22 patients with a mean age of 40.92 ± 7.33 years were analyzed. The VisioFace® scores decreased significantly by the end of the study [right eyes: mean difference (MD): -5.63 (95% CI: -7.12 to -4.15), p < 0.001; left eyes: MD: -5.91 (95% CI: -7.46 to -4.36), p < 0.001]. Moreover, castor oil cream significantly reduced the melanin level, wrinkles, and skin laxity in the infraorbital region (p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: Castor oil cream seems to be an effective alternative for treating infraorbital hyperpigmentation. Randomized clinical trials are needed to confirm our findings.

Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 Ginkgo biloba-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents or antioxidants. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel was concerned about the presence of ginkgolic acid in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that 5 Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing; data are insufficient to determine the safety of the remaining 5 ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Hops as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (reported functions include antimicrobial agent and hair conditioning agent) and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil (reported function is fragrance). The Panel reviewed the relevant data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. For these ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of 8-prenylnaringenin, ß-myrcene, and quercetin in cosmetics, which could result in estrogenic effects, dermal irritation, and genotoxicity, respectively. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and constituents of concern. The Panel concluded that Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Multistep Approach Points to Compounds Responsible for the Biological Activity and Safety of Hydrolates from Nine Lamiaceae Medicinal Plants on Human Skin Fibroblasts.

As byproducts of essential oil distillation, hydrolates are used in natural cosmetics/biomedicine due to their beneficial skin effects. However, data on their safety with relevant biological targets, such as human skin cells, are scarce. Therefore, we have tested nine hydrolates from the Lamiaceae family with skin fibroblasts that are responsible for extracellular collagenous matrix builds. Thyme, oregano, and winter savoury hydrolates showed several times higher total phenolics, which correlated strongly with their radical scavenging and antioxidative capacity; there was no correlation between their viability profiles and the reducing sugar levels. No proteins/peptides were detected. All hydrolates appeared safe for prolonged skin exposure except for 10-fold diluted lavender, which showed cytotoxicity (~20%), as well as rosemary and lavandin (~10%) using viability, DNA synthesis, and cell count testing. Clary sage, oregano, lemon balm, and thyme hydrolates (10-fold diluted) increased fibroblast viability and/or proliferation by 10-30% compared with the control, while their viability remained unaffected by Mentha and winter savoury. In line with the STITCH database, increased viability could be attributed to thymol presence in oregano and thyme hydrolates in lemon balm, which is most likely attributable to neral and geranial. The proliferative effect of clary sage could be supported by alpha-terpineol, not linalool. The major volatile organic compounds (VOCs) associated with cytotoxic effects on fibroblasts were borneol, 1,8-cineole, and terpinene-4-ol. Further research with pure compounds is warranted to confirm the roles of VOCs in the observed effects that are relevant to cosmetic and wound healing aspects.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Amended Safety Assessment of Mentha piperita (Peppermint)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of M piperita (peppermint)-derived ingredients. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituent(s) of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that M piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Extract, Leaf, and leaf-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing, and that the available data are insufficient for determining that M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, and M piperita (Peppermint) Meristem Cell Culture are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 2001, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use, and confirmed that Cottonseed Glyceride and Hydrogenated Cottonseed Glyceride are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report, provided that established and imposed limits on gossypol, heavy metals, and pesticide concentrations are not exceeded.

Plants with cosmetic uses.

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 2004, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIF: Le sisal est une fibre rigide courante produite dans le monde entier, correspondant à environ 70 % de la production commerciale de toutes les fibres de ce type. Les fibres sont extraites des feuilles d'Agave sisalana dont environ 4 % du poids est obtenu, les 96 % restants étant considérés comme des résidus du procédé de l'industrie du sisal. L'objectif de ce projet était d'obtenir un extrait du résidu d'A. sisalana enrichi en polyphénols par extraction assistée par ultrasons (EAU), de le caractériser chimiquement, d'évaluer l'activité antioxydante in vitro et de développer des formulations photoprotectrices sûres et stables pour une application future dans des préparations cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'extraction ultrasonique de la matière végétale solide a été effectuée avec une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (v/v). L'extrait a été chimiquement caractérisé avec un équipement de chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance associé à un réseau moléculaire (RM) classique, puis évalué pour l'activité antioxydante in vitro par différentes méthodologies. Dix formulations ont été préparées en variant les concentrations des composants et le temps de cisaillement. L'extrait de sisal à 1,0 % a été incorporé dans les formulations les plus stables et la stabilité préliminaire et accélérée a été évaluée. La sécurité d'emploi des émulsions a été étudiée en évaluant l'irritabilité et la sensibilisation cutanées accumulées primaires et l'étude clinique dermatologique de la phototoxicité et de la photosensibilisation. Le facteur de protection solaire in vivo, le facteur de protection UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et la protection contre la lumière visible et bleue ont été déterminées pour les formulations photoprotectrices contenant ou non l'extrait qui étaient stables après 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: L'extraction par ultrasons utilisant une solution à 50 % d'éthanol/eau (EH 50) comme véhicule d'extraction a menée au meilleur rendement. L'extrait a présenté une concentration de composés phénoliques (77,93 mg d'EAG/g) et une activité antioxydante in vitro. Les émulsions sans et avec 1,0 % d'extrait de sisal sont restées stables et sans danger. L'ajout de l'extrait à la formulation photoprotectrice a statistiquement augmenté le SPF par rapport à la formulation sans extrait et a offert une protection contre les rayonnements UVA, la longueur d'onde critique et l'absorption de la lumière visible et bleue. CONCLUSION: D'après ces résultats, les résidus solides d'A. sisalana peuvent être indiqués comme composant des formulations cosmétiques photoprotectrices et antioxydantes.

Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE: The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics. METHODS: Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed. RESULTS: The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: L'industrie du vin génère de grandes quantités de sous-produits présentant une composition remarquablement précieuse en matière de phytochimie. Le procédé susceptible d'augmenter significativement la teneur en composés bioactifs est la fermentation par la levure et d'autres micro-organismes. Cette étude présente pour la première fois une évaluation du potentiel de l'extrait de rafle de raisin et de ses ferments réalisés à l'aide du consortium Scoby lors de l'utilisation en matière première pour améliorer les propriétés de soin cutané des cosmétiques du visage. MÉTHODES: La fermentation des rafles de raisin a été réalisée à l'aide du consortium Scoby pendant 10 et 20 jours. L'activité antioxydante et la composition chimique des extraits non fermentés et fermentés a été analysée en mettant l'accent sur les substances biologiquement actives. En outre, l'évaluation a également porté sur l'influence de l'ajout des ferments obtenus aux crèmes cosmétiques types sur l'hydratation, la perte d'eau transépidermique et le pH cutané. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats obtenus ont révélé que l'extrait de rafles et ses ferments représentaient une source riche en composés phénoliques et montraient une activité antioxydante ; les valeurs les plus élevées des extraits étant observées au 20 -ème jour de fermentation. En outre, l'ajout de l'extrait et du ferment à la crème entraîne un effet positif sur l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la perte d'eau transépidermique. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les extraits de rafles représentent une source prospective de composés actifs et peuvent constituer des principes actifs précieux pour l'industrie cosmétique. Il est possible d'utiliser des extraits non fermentés et fermentés dans les formulations cosmétiques hydratantes et pour compléter le traitement des peaux sèches et sensibles.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component.

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 µg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 µg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Anti-Aging Constituents from Pinus morrisonicola Leaves.

Pinus morrisonicola Hayata is a unique plant species found in Taiwan. Previous studies have identified its anti-hypertensive, anti-oxidative, and anti-inflammatory effects. In this study, a bioactivity-guided approach was employed to extract 20 compounds from the ethyl acetate fraction of the ethanol extract of Pinus morrisonicola Hayata's pine needles. The anti-aging effects of these compounds were investigated using HT-1080 cells. The structures of the purified compounds were confirmed through NMR and LC-MS analysis, revealing the presence of nine flavonoids, two lignans, one coumarin, one benzofuran, one phenylic acid, and six diterpenoids. Among them, PML18, PML19, and PML20 were identified as novel diterpene. Compounds 3, 4, and 5 exhibited remarkable inhibitory effects against MMP-2 and showed no significant cell toxicity at 25 µM. Although the purified compounds showed lower activity against Pro MMP-2 and Pro MMP-9 compared to the ethyl acetate fraction, we speculate that this is the result of synergistic effects.

Comparative Analysis of Water Extracts from Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) Plants and Callus Cells: Constituents, Effects on Human Skin Cells, and Transcriptome Profiles.

Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) is a plant that has traditionally been used in various food and beverage products. Here, we investigated the potential of water extracts derived from Roselle leaves and callus cells for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. We generated calluses from Roselle leaves and produced two different water extracts through heat extraction, which we named Hibiscus sabdariffa plant extract (HSPE) and Hibiscus sabdariffa callus extract (HSCE). HPLC analysis showed that the two extracts have different components, with nucleic acids and metabolites such as phenylalanine and tryptophan being the most common components in both extracts. In vitro assays demonstrated that HSCE has strong anti-melanogenic effects and functions for skin barrier and antioxidant activity. Transcriptome profiling of human skin cells treated with HSPE and HSCE showed significant differences, with HSPE having more effects on human skin cells. Up-regulated genes by HSPE function in angiogenesis, the oxidation-reduction process, and glycolysis, while up-regulated genes by HSCE encode ribosome proteins and IFI6, functioning in the healing of radiation-injured skin cells. Therefore, we suggest that the two extracts from Roselle should be applied differently for cosmetics and pharmaceutical purposes. Our findings demonstrate the potential of Roselle extracts as a natural source for skincare products.