Using 3% retinol peeling and cosmeceuticals for the aesthetic wellness of the oncological patient after precautionary endocrine treatment: A case series.

BACKGROUND: Roughness, sagging, and skin rash are common in patients with breast cancer treated with LH-RH analog plus tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors as adjuvant postsurgical endocrine therapy. The use of topical retinol (vitamin A) has shown to be an efficacious cosmetic treatment. AIMS: Peeling with an advanced retinol peel formulation based on 3% retinol, 4% triethyl citrate, 0.1% aminophil, bisabolol, and 1% vitamin E acetate, in a vehicle in an alcoholic solution has been successfully used to ameliorate skin appearance on subjects with photodamage and in the aged population. We aimed to verify its use during adjuvant chemotherapy. PATIENTS: Four subjects experiencing skin issues during postsurgical adjuvant therapy for their breast cancer received retinol peel at least 6 weeks after stopping their postsurgery therapy as a low invasive aesthetic medical treatment to be used both at the dermatology desk and at home. RESULTS: Retinol peel was effective, safe, and well-tolerated, improving skin brightness and firmness in all the patients, since 4 weeks after the beginning of the treatment. Patients declared to be satisfied with the treatment and their skin appearance letting them feel better for cancer recovery, too. CONCLUSION: These preliminary observations suggest that the use of an advanced retinol peel formulation might improve skin appearance in women experiencing skin damages caused by adjuvant therapy after breast cancer surgery.

Plants with cosmetic uses.

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Standardized Extract from Wastes of Edible Flowers and Snail Mucus Ameliorate Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocytes.

Several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative, and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from Helix aspersa muller has already been reported to have beneficial properties such as antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. In order to enhance the beneficial effects of snail mucus, a formulation enriched with antioxidant compounds derived from edible flower waste (Acmella oleracea L., Centaurea cyanus L., Tagetes erecta L., Calendula officinalis L., and Moringa oleifera Lam.) was obtained. UVB damage was used as a model to investigate in vitro the cytoprotective effects of snail mucus and edible flower extract. Results demonstrated that polyphenols from the flower waste extract boosted the antioxidant activity of snail mucus, providing cytoprotective effects in keratinocytes exposed to UVB radiation. Additionally, glutathione content, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and lipid peroxidation levels were reduced following the combined treatment with snail mucus and edible flower waste extract. We demonstrated that flower waste can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications due to its potent antioxidant activity. Thus, a new formulation of snail mucus enriched in extracts of edible flower waste could be useful to design innovative and sustainable broadband natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Formulation, characterization of Quercus infectoria (Olivier) emulsions, and in vitro, in vivo evaluation as cosmeceutical formulation.

BACKGROUND: Pharmacological properties of Quercus infectoria Olivier (galls) have been determined to be astringent, antidiabetic, antipyretic, anti-tremor, local anesthetic, and anti-parkinsonism. The galls of Quercus infectoria have been used for millennia in traditional oriental medicine in Asian nations to treat inflammatory illnesses. AIMS: The study's objective was to create a Quercus infectoria Olivier gall extract in stable water in oil (w/o) emulsion and to check its effects on the mechanical properties of skin and antiaging effects. METHOD: The galls were macerated in absolute methanol. Quercus infectoria Olivier gall extract's antioxidant property was evaluated using the 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) technique. Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, KOH, glycerin, and distilled water were used to create the emulsion. The test (with extract) and control (without extract) emulsions were made, respectively, using the same process. Stability tests (color, liquefaction, microscopy, phase separation, and pH) are performed in in vitro, lasted 72 days at four distinct storage temperatures that is 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C + 75% RH for both the control and test formulations. By using spectrophotometry, the (SPF) sun protection factors of the two formulations were calculated at various concentrations. Extract from Quercus infectoria underwent phytochemical investigation as well. RESULTS: The results showed that Quercus infectoria Olivier has antioxidant and (SPF) sun protection properties, reduce sebum, increases elasticity and stable emulsion containing 04% Quercus infectoria gall extract which might be used as topical antiaging formulation.

Ginkgo biloba leaves extract's cosmeceutical evaluation: a preliminary assessments on human volunteers towards achieving improved skin condition and rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation. METHODS: Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application. RESULTS: A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor. CONCLUSION: The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin.

Anti-tyrosinase and antimelanogenic effect of cinnamic acid derivatives from Prunus mahaleb L.: Phenolic composition, isolation, identification and inhibitory activity.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: The traditional use of Prunus species against skin diseases and especially for skin lightning cosmeceutical purposes is widespread in many cultures. Prunus mahaleb L. is a well known food plant and used in the baking industry for flavoring. The fruit kernels (endocarp) are used in India for hyperpigmentation. AIM OF THE STUDY: To investigate the chemical composition with the antimelanogenesis effect of P. mahaleb seed and kernel extracts and isolated compounds. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Isolation studies performed from the methanol extracts obtained from kernels and structures were determined using NMR and MS analysis. Antimelanogenesis effect was determined by mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells. RESULTS: Five cinnamic acid derivatives were isolated and their structures (2-O-ß-glucopyranosyloxy-4-methoxy-hydrocinnamic acid (1), cis-melilotoside (2), dihydromelilotoside (3), trans-melilotoside (4), 2-O-ß-glucosyloxy-4-methoxy trans-cinnamic acid (5)) were elucidated using advanced spectroscopic methods. Mushroom tyrosinase enzyme inhibition of extracts, fractions and pure compounds obtained from P. mahaleb kernels were investigated and structure-activity relationship revealed. According to a detailed, comprehensive and validated LC-MS/MS technique analysis, vanilic acid (41.407 mg/g), protocatechuic acid (8.992 mg/g) and ferulic acid (4.962 mg/g) in the kernel ethylacetate fraction; quinic acid (14.183 mg/g), fumaric acid (8.349 mg/g) and aconitic acid (5.574 mg/g) were found as major phenolic compounds in the water fraction. The correlation of trace element copper content in extracts and fractions with mushroom enzyme activity was determined. By examining the enzyme kinetics of the compounds with effective cinnamic acid derivatives, inhibition types and enzyme binding constants Ki were calculated. Compounds 1,3 and 5 exhibited high noncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against L-tyrosine substrates, with IC50 values of 0.22, 0.31 and 0.37 mM respectively. In addition compounds 1, 3 and 5 showed dose-dependent inhibitory effects on intracellular tyrosinase and melanin levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. CONCLUSIONS: Potent tyrosinase inhibitory compounds and extracts of P. mahaleb kernels suggest that it could be a new, non-toxic and inexpensive resource for the cosmeceutical industry and in skin diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Therapeutic and cosmeceutical role of glycosylated natural products in dermatology.

Natural products (NPs) remain the primary source of pharmacologically active candidates for drug discovery. Since time immemorial, NPs have attracted considerable attention because of their beneficial skin effects. Moreover, there has been a great interest in using such products for the cosmetics industry in the past few decades, bridging the gap between modern and traditional medicine. Terpenoids, Steroids, and Flavonoids having glycosidic attachment have proven biological effects with a positive impact on human health. NPs derived glycosides are mainly found in fruits, vegetables, and plants, and most of them have a special reverence in traditional and modern medicine for disease prevention and treatment. A literature review was performed using scientific journals, Google scholar, Scifinder, PubMED, and Google patents. These scientific articles, documents, and patents establish the significance of glycosidic NPs in the areas of dermatology. Considering the human inclination to the usage of NPs rather than synthetic or inorganic drugs (especially in the area of skin care), in the present review we have discussed the worth of NP glycosides in beauty care and skin-related therapeutics and the mechanistic pathways involved.

Cupressus arizonica Greene: Phytochemical Profile and Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Properties of Its Leaf Extracts.

For many decades, natural resources have traditionally been employed in skin care. Here, we explored the phytochemical profile of the aqueous and ethanolic leaf extracts of Cupressus arizonica Greene and assessed their antioxidant, antiaging and antibacterial activities in vitro. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analysis led to the tentative identification of 67 compounds consisting mainly of phenolic and fatty acids, diterpene acids, proanthocyanidins and flavonoid and biflavonoid glycosides. The aqueous extract demonstrated substantial in vitro antioxidant potential at FRAP and DPPH assays and inhibited the four target enzymes (collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase) engaged in skin remodeling and aging with IC50 values close to those of the standard drugs. Moreover, the aqueous extract at 25 mg/mL suppressed biofilm formation by Pseudomonas aeruginosa, a bacterial pathogen causing common skin manifestations, and decreased its swarming and swimming motilities. In conclusion, C. arizonica leaves can be considered a promising candidate for potential application in skin aging.

Extraction Optimization, Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical and Wound Healing Potential of Echinacea purpurea Glycerolic Extracts.

Echinacea purpurea is a plant with immunomodulating properties, often used in topical preparations for treatment of small superficial wounds. In the presented study, the best conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of caffeic acid derivatives (caftaric and cichoric acid) (TPA-opt extract), as well as the conditions best suited for preparation of the extract with high radical scavenging activity (RSA-opt extract), from E. purpurea aerial parts were determined. A Box-Behnken design based on glycerol content (%, w/w), temperature (°C), ultrasonication power (W) and time (min) as independent variables was performed. Antioxidant, antiaging and wound healing effects of the two prepared extracts were evaluated. The results demonstrate that glycerol extraction is a fast and efficient method for preparation of the extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant abilities. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated notable collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, indicating their antiaging properties. Well-pronounced hyaluronidase-inhibitory activities, with IC50 values lower than 30 µL extract/mL, as well as the ability to promote scratch closure in HaCaT keratinocyte monolayers, even in concentrations as low as 2.5 µL extract/mL (for RSA-opt), demonstrate promising wound healing effects of E. purpurea. The fact that the investigated extracts were prepared using glycerol, a non-toxic and environmentally friendly solvent, widely used in cosmetics, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Profiling of phytochemicals using LC-ESI-MS2 , in vitro, in vivo characterization and cosmeceutical effects of Alpinia galanga (wild) extract loaded emulgel.

BACKGROUND: The potential as a depigmenting agent, sun protection, and healthy benefits is indicated by the sun protection factor, radical scavenging, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of Alpinia galanga (wild). AIMS: A stable emulgel containing A .galanga (wild) extract is prepared. This emulgel is then characterized by in vitro evaluation and identification of contents by LC-ESI-MS2 . In vivo performance is counted in terms of moisturizing, melanin level, erythema, sebum, skin fine pores and large pores analysis, and other related physiological skin parameters. METHODS: DPPH radical scavenging activity, total phenolic and flavonoid counts were used to measure the free radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory capability of A .galanga (wild) extract, respectively. LC-ESI-MS2 used for phytochemical analysis. Emulgels synthesize, and their globule size, Ultracentrifugation, pH, and conductivity were all evaluated. Among the developed formulations, the optimal emulgels formulation underwent 90-day stability tests for organoleptic characteristics and rheology at 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C + 75% RH (relative humidity). Using sebumeter®, mexameter®, and corneometer®, changes in skin physiological parameters were assessed over the course of 12 weeks in 13 healthy male, Asian volunteers. VisioFace® is used for computational analysis of high-resolution pictures to determine the % area, fine pore counts, and large pore counts of the skin. RESULTS: The antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitory potential and counts of total phenolic and flavonoids of A .galanga (wild) extract were impressive (85%, 75%, and 48.0 mg GAE/g and 14.37 mg quercetin/g, respectively). In terms of stability evaluation, globule size (0.7528 ± 0.192 µm). Optimized A .galanga (wild) ethanol aqueous (AGEA) extract loaded emulgel was stable in terms of organoleptic and in vitro evaluation. The AGEA formulation significantly reduced the amount of sebum, erythema, fine pore counts, large pore counts, fine pore % area and large pores area percentage while significantly improved the moisture and elasticity of the skin. CONCLUSION: A stable A .galanga (wild) extract loaded emulgel was successfully produced that improved the skin physiological parameters in terms of skin's sebum, erythema, moisturizing, melanin, and pores.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects.

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma.

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

Ultrasound-assisted green extraction methods: An approach for cosmeceutical compounds isolation from Macadamia integrifolia pericarp.

This study aimed was to examine the potential of several green extraction methods to extract cosmetic/cosmeceutical components from Macadamia integrifolia pericarps, which were a by-product of the macadamia nut industry. M. integrifolia pericarps were extracted by conventional solvent extraction process using 95% v/v ethanol and various green extraction methods, including infusion, ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction using water as a clean and green solvent. The extracts were evaluated for total phenolic content using Folin-Ciocalteu method.The antioxidant activities were evaluated by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), ferric reducing/antioxidant power, and ferric-thiocyanate method. The anti-skin ageing activities were investigated by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition using enzyme-substrate reaction assay. The irritation profile of the extracts was evaluated by the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results noted that ultrasound-assisted extraction yielded the significantly highest extract amount with the significantly highest total phenolic content (p < 0.05), especially when the extraction time was 10 min. The aqueous extract from ultrasound-assisted extraction possessed the most potent antioxidant and anti-skin ageing activities (p < 0.05). Its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox, whereas the anti-skin ageing activities were equivalent to epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. Besides, the extract was safe since it induced no irritation in the HET-CAM test. Therefore, ultrasound-assisted extraction was suggested as an environmentally friendly extraction method for M. integrifolia pericarp extraction and further application in the cosmetic/cosmeceutical industries.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands.

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC50: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC50: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC50: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals.

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 µg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties.

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

An In Vivo Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of Blue Shark (Prionace glauca) Cartilage Collagen as a Cosmetic.

The "blue shark", Prionace glauca (class: Chondrichthyes), is a pelagic shark species commonly found in tropical and temperate oceans. This shark is mainly sold in Asian countries as food and as traditional Chinese medicine. According to the Red List of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, P. glauca is classified as low-risk to near endangered. P. glauca cartilage contains collagen type II, which makes it suitable as a bioactive ingredient in cosmeceutical products. This study evaluated the effects of a gel containing various concentrations (0.125-5%) of lyophilized hydrolyzed P. glauca cartilage on the human inner wrist skin compared to a placebo (base). A skin properties evaluation test was conducted before and after applying various concentrations (0.125-5%) of the P. glauca cartilage gel for 10 and 20 min on the inner wrists of participants using a skin analyzer that determined the moisture level, oil level, texture level, complexion level, and the 3D level. Adding lyophilized hydrolyzed shark cartilage (LHSC) significantly improved the moisture, texture, and complexion of the skin while controlling oil and providing a wrinkle-smoothing effect. The result indicated that LHSC formulations were prepared at different concentrations, and they had significantly enhanced effects on skin hydration and elasticity (texture) and the smoothing of wrinkles (3D level). The LHSC also effectively controlled oil secretion and the complexion.

Ameliorative Effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth Seed Extract Against Bacteria-Induced Acne Inflammation: in vitro study.

Currently, bioactive compounds derived from nature have been thought to be promising anti-acne substances owing to the variety of potential biological effects. This study aimed to evaluate the ameliorative effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth seed extract against bacteria-induced acne inflammation for the first time in terms of antibacterial effects against acne-inducing bacteria, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Initially, extracting procedures were optimized and five different extracts were obtained. Considering their antibacterial activities against Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis, ethanolic and ethyl acetate fractions exerted a notable effect which were highly superior above those of polyphenol standards. Additionally, these two extracts presented outstanding antioxidant capacities in terms of DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging effects, reducing power, and inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation which also play a role in the exacerbation of acne inflammation. Besides, inhibition on lipid peroxidation and reducing power of ethanolic fraction were significantly (p<0.05) better than those of ethyl acetate fraction which was corresponding to their phenolic and ellagic acid contents. However, flavonoids found in ethyl acetate fraction might play an important role in its potentials. After that, the anti-inflammatory effects of the extracts were elucidated by means of inhibition on nitric oxide production from LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cell lines at which the effects of both extracts were dosedependency. Taken together, our findings have apparently proven that B. macrophylla seed extracts exerted a variety of potential properties including antioxidation, anti-acne-inducing bacteria, and anti-inflammatory effects which could serve as a promising anti-acne agent for cosmeceutical applications.

Molecular Analysis of the Melanogenesis Inhibitory Effect of Saponins-Rich Fraction of Argania spinosa Leaves Extract.

Plant saponins are abundant and diverse natural products with a great potential for use in drug-discovery research. Here, we evaluated extracts of saponins-rich fractions of argan leaves and argan oil extraction byproducts (shell, pulp, press cake) for their effect on melanogenesis. Results show that from among the samples tested, only the saponins-rich fraction from leaves (ALS) inhibited melanin production in B16 murine melanoma (B16) cells. The mechanism of the melanogenesis inhibition was elucidated by determining the protein and mRNA expression of melanogenesis-associated enzymes tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and performing DNA microarray analysis. Results showed that 10 µg/mL ALS significantly inhibited melanogenesis in B16 cells and human epidermal melanocytes by 59% and 48%, respectively, without cytotoxicity. The effect of ALS on melanogenesis can be attributed to the decrease in TYR, TRP1, and MITF expression at the protein and mRNA levels. MITF inhibition naturally led to the downregulation of the expression of Tyr and Trp1 genes. Results of the DNA microarray analysis revealed the effect on melanogenesis-associated cAMP and Wnt signaling pathways' genes. The results of this study suggest that ALS may be used in cosmeceuticals preparations for hyperpigmentation treatment.

Formulation and characterization of Anacyclus Pyrethrum Emulgels and its in vitro and in vivo evaluation as cosmeceutical product.

BACKGROUND: Plants containing high phenolic and flavonoids contents used widely as antioxidant agent by reducing skin photo damaging effects and play important role in skin rejuvenating. AIMS: This study was performed to explore the cosmetic effects of Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract and to develop stable oil in water (O/W) emulsion base gel loaded with Anacyclus Pyrethrum 10% extract. OBJECTIVE: To explore and quantify phenols and flavonoids present in Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract and determine its cosmetic effects on human skin. METHOD: Emulgel formulation were developed by mixing o/w emulsion with carbopol gelling agent loaded with Anacyclus Pyrethrum (AP) extract and base gel without AP extract. In vitro study was done for the evaluation of color change, liquefaction, hardness, and pH change at different storage condition for the duration of 12 weeks. For in vivo study, emulgel applied on 13 healthy human volunteer's cheeks to evaluate its cosmetics effects and compared with placebo (base). Facial parameters including skin melanin, redness, sebum, moisture content, and skin elasticity were determined by using mexameter, sebumeter, corneometer, elastometer for the study duration of 12 weeks. RESULTS: Total phenolic content in Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract was 80.04 ± 0.0043 mg GAE/g, and flavonoids were 54.64 ± 0.0076 mg QE/g. Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract found significantly effective in reducing skin photo-damage effects (p ≤ 0.05) as compared base gel. CONCLUSION: Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract being rich source of flavonoid and phenolic content, acts as strong antioxidant to protect skin against photo-damaging effect and improve skin conditions.