Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) Extract vs. Synthetic Surfactants-Effect on Skin-Mimetic Models.

Our skin is continuously exposed to different amphiphilic substances capable of interaction with its lipids and proteins. We describe the effect of a saponin-rich soapwort extract and of four commonly employed synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on different human skin models. Two human skin cell lines were employed: normal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (A375). The liposomes consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3, mimicking the cell membrane of keratinocytes and melanoma cells were employed as the second model. Using dynamic light scattering (DLS), the particle size distribution of liposomes was analyzed before and after contact with the tested (bio)surfactants. The results, supplemented by the protein solubilization tests (albumin denaturation test, zein test) and oil emulsification capacity (using olive oil and engine oil), showed that the soapwort extract affects the skin models to a clearly different extent than any of the tested synthetic surfactants. Its protein and lipid solubilizing potential are much smaller than for the three anionic surfactants (SLS, ALS, SLES). In terms of protein solubilization potential, the soapwort extract is comparable to CAPB, which, however, is much harsher to lipids.

Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half-side comparison.

BACKGROUND: Elevated levels of skin sebum are associated with the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. Intensive degreasing of the skin reduces Propionibacterium acnes but also may cause skin irritation. AIMS: We assessed the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical face cleanser with hops and willow bark extract and disodium cocoyl glutamate as mild cleansing agent compared to a standard face cleanser with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 21 healthy volunteers with normal to oily skin were enrolled in this study. Both cleansers were applied twice a day on the left or right side of the forehead for 15 days in a standardized manner. Bioengineering measurements were performed on day 8 and 15 and on day 17 after an application break of 48 hours. The sebum level was determined using a Sebumeter® , and skin redness was measured using a Mexameter® . RESULTS: The botanical face cleanser significantly reduced the sebum level (P < .01) in the test area on day 17. The SLES containing cleanser showed a statistically relevant degreasing effect already on day 15, but after the application break the sebum level increased again on day 17. None of the cleansers caused skin irritation as determined by skin redness measurements. CONCLUSIONS: In contrast to the SLES containing cleanser, the botanical skin cleanser with hops and willow bark extract had a continuous degreasing effect without reactive seborrhoe after the treatment break. Skin cleansing without SLES might be advantageous for sensitive skin.

Concentration-dependent antagonistic persuasion of SDS and naphthalene derivatives on the fibrillation of stem bromelain.

Sodium dodecyl sulfate, a biological membrane mimetic, can be used to study the conversion of globular proteins into amyloid fibrils in vitro. Using multiple approaches, the effect of SDS was examined on stem bromelain (SB), a widely recognized therapeutic protein. SB is known to exist as a partially folded intermediate at pH 2.0, situation also encountered in the gastrointestinal tract (its site of absorption). In the presence of sub-micellar SDS concentration (500-1000 µM), this intermediate was found to exhibit great propensity to form large-sized ß-sheeted aggregates with fibrillar morphology, the hall marks of amyloid structure. We also observed inhibition of fibrillation by two naphthalene-based compounds, ANS and bis-ANS. While bis-ANS significantly inhibited fibril formation at 50 µM, ANS did so at relatively higher concentration (400 µM). Alcohols, but not salts, were found to weaken the inhibitory action of these compounds suggesting the possible involvement of hydrophobic interactions in their binding to protein. Besides, isothermal titration calorimetry and molecular docking studies suggested that inhibition of fibrillation by these naphthalene derivatives is mediated not just through hydrophobic forces, but also by disruption of π-π interactions between the aromatic residues together with the inter-polypeptide chain repulsion among negatively charged ANS/bis-ANS bound SB.

Discovery of synergistic permeation enhancers for oral drug delivery.

Oral drug delivery offers an attractive method of needle-free drug administration. Unfortunately, oral delivery is often hampered by the poor permeability of drugs across the intestinal epithelium. Although several single chemical permeation enhancers have been shown to alleviate permeability difficulties, this often occurs at the expense of safety. This in vitro study demonstrates the use of binary and ternary combinations of permeation enhancers to create synergistic enhancer formulations (SEFs) that offer a high level of potency while inducing very little toxicity in Caco-2 cells. Although relatively rare in the explored formulation space, SEFs were abundant enough to significantly increase the repertoire of permeation enhancers that are safe and effective in vitro. The most promising enhancers from the binary study led to easily identifiable ternary SEFs, thus increasing the efficiency of the discovery process. Some of the best performers of the study included binary combinations of hexylamine and chembetaine and ternary combinations of sodium laureth sulfate, decyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, and chembetaine, all at a total concentration of 0.1% (w/v). Furthermore, several SEFs were shown to be capable of increasing mannitol and 70 kDa dextran permeability across Caco-2 monolayers 15- and 8-fold, respectively. These results encourage further exploration of several leading formulations for in vivo applications in oral drug delivery.