Synthesis and activity of the salicylic acid ester of bakuchiol in psoriasis-surrogate keratinocytes and skin substitutes.

BACKGROUND: Topical retinoids are effective in retarding skin ageing and restoring homeostasis in skin conditions such as psoriasis. However their adverse effects (AEs), which include irritation (retinoid dermatitis), photosensitivity and teratogenicity, limit their use and patient compliance. Development of retinoid analogues with minimal AEs would allow a broader and more compliant use. AIM: To synthesise a novel molecule, bakuchiol salicylate (bakusylan), with a modulatory gene expression profile similar to retinoids, using as reference three prescription retinoids: tretinoin, tazarotene and adapalene. METHODS: We hypothesized that because bakuchiol salicylate has a structure entirely different from existing retinoids, there would be at least a partial uncoupling of AEs from the skin-normalizing activity of this retinoid. This hypothesis was tested at the transcriptional level in psoriatic cytokine-treated cultures of keratinocytes and organotypic skin substitutes, using DNA microarrays and custom PCR arrays. RESULTS: Evaluation of the gene expression profile of bakuchiol salicylate revealed elimination of several components of the retinoid-like proinflammatory response and teratogenic signature, without a substantial loss of normalizing potential. A possible mechanism of action, consisting of keratinocyte desensitization to psoriatic cytokine signalling through inhibition of the signal transducer and regulator of transcription (STAT)1/3/interferon inflammatory signal transduction axis was also identified. CONCLUSION: Bipartite materials obtained by merging two skin-active entities with specific, complementary bioactivities, such as bakuchiol and salicylic acid, may yield a new class of functional retinoids.

Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects.

OBJECTIVE: The study was undertaken to compare the skin care related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, a potential alternative to retinoids. Retinol is a pivotal regulator of differentiation and growth of developing as well as adult skin. Retinoic acid is the major physiologically active metabolite of retinol regulating gene expression through retinoic acid receptor - dependant and independent pathways. METHODS: Comparative gene expression profiling of both substances in the EpiDerm FT full thickness skin substitute model was undertaken. Furthermore, type I, III and IV collagen, as well as aquaporin 3 expression was analyzed by ELISA and/or histochemistry in human dermal fibroblasts and/or Epiderm FT skin substitutes. RESULTS: Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol abundant in seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia. We present evidence that bakuchiol, having no structural resemblance to retinoids, can function as a functional analogue of retinol. Volcano plots showed great overall similarity of retinol and bakuchiol effects on the gene expression profile. This similarity was confirmed by the side-by-side comparison of the modulation of individual genes, as well as on the protein level by ELISA and histochemistry. Retinol-like functionality was further confirmed for the upregulation of types I and IV collagen in DNA microarray study and also show stimulation of type III collagen in the mature fibroblast model. Bakuchiol was also formulated into a finished skin care product and was tested in clinical case study by twice-a-day facial application. The results showed that, after 12 weeks treatment, significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo-damage was observed, without usual retinol therapy-associated undesirable effects. CONCLUSION: Based on these data, we propose that bakuchiol can function as an anti-ageing compound through retinol-like regulation of gene expression.

Hypodermal delivery of cosmetic actives for improved facial skin morphology and functionality.

OBJECTIVE: Skin compartments traditionally targeted by cosmetic actives - epidermis and dermis - are anchored and nourished by the underlying hypodermis, which therefore should be a key target for skin-rejuvenating formulations. However, given the difficulty to reach even the superficial layers of the skin, and to its 'unglamorous' fatty composition, the regenerative potential of hypodermis remains largely untapped. Therefore, this study was to investigate the capacity of a cosmetic material to trigger a regenerative response in dermis and epidermis through a selective action on hypodermis. Furthermore, it aimed to establish the effect of such cosmetic material in transbuccal hypodermal delivery form, on the hypodermal precursor cells - the preadipocytes. METHODS: A combination of grape seed extract and soy phospholipids was formulated and standardized for elastase activity and free radical inhibition. This formulation was then used to contact the hypodermal layer of human skin biopsies and - under a transbuccal delivery vehicle form - the 3T3-L1 preadipocytes, and its effects were quantified using PCR arrays and histochemistry. RESULTS: Application of the standardized grape/soy material to the hypodermal layer of skin triggered modulation of gene expression in the upper layers of the skin and resulted in the clear morphological improvement at the dermal and epidermal levels. Furthermore, when this material was formulated in a mucoadhesive, intraoral film and applied on 3T3-L1 preadipocytes, the resulting modulation of gene expression in these cells was consistent with differentiation and detoxification effects. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that transbuccal formulations of nutraceutical grade cosmetics have potential to induce signal transduction pathways in facial hypodermis, resulting in anti-aging effects throughout all skin compartments, including dermal and epidermal layers.

Lycium barbarum glycoconjugates: effect on human skin and cultured dermal fibroblasts.

Lycium barbarum L. (Solanaceae) glycoconjugates (LbGp) display an interesting array of anti-apoptotic and antioxidant properties, which may be beneficial for human skin. We therefore set out to determine the effects of LbGp in full-thickness human skin, and in dermal fibroblasts. It was found that LbGp decreased the level of MMP (matrix metalloproteinase)-1 significantly, but not that of MMP-3 or -13, in the whole human skin system, without compromising the viability of the skin. Consistently, LbGp inhibited skin expansion under mechanical stress, which in this model depends on the activity of MMP-1. We found that one of L. barbarum glycoconjugates, the LbGp5, promoted the survival of human fibroblasts cultured in suboptimal conditions. Furthermore, in the presence of LbGp5, these cultures also contained higher levels of the MMP-1 substrate--collagen type I. Together these results suggest that L. barbarum glycoconjugates in general, and LbGp5 in particular, may have important skin-protective properties.