Effect of massage on retinol skin penetration.

Topical administration of active substances may be promoted by optimizing not only the vehicle formulation but also the application protocol. The formulation aspects are widely studied in the literature while a few works are dedicated to the development of application methods. In this context, we studied an application protocol usable as a part of skincare routine by investigating the effect of massage on the skin penetration of retinol. Retinol is a lipophilic molecule widely used as an anti-ageing firming agent in cosmetic formulations. Massage was applied to pig skin explants mounted to Franz diffusion cells after or before the deposit of the retinol-loaded formulation. Thetype of skin massage (roll or rotary type) and its duration were varied.The massage protocol had a significant influence on retinol skin penetration. Due to its highly lipophilic character, retinol accumulated into the stratum corneum but, depending on the massage protocol, a significant retinol concentration was obtained after 4 h in epidermis and dermis layers. Results showed that the roll-type massage was significantly more efficient than the rotary process that exhibited little effect on retinol cutaneous penetration. Such results could be interesting for the development of massage devices in association with cosmetic formulations.

Stabilization of vitamin C in emulsions of liquid crystalline structures.

Emulsified systems are widely used for topical delivery with the aim of optimizing cutaneous absorption and offering a pleasant sensory. They also may provide a protection of the active molecule against oxidation and/or degradation. The oil phase of o/w emulsions may consist of liquid crystalline structures, especially lamellar structures which are similar to those found in the stratum corneum lipids. In the present work, o/w emulsions containing liquid crystals of mixed cetyl alcohol and Polysorbate 60 were developed for topical delivery of vitamin C, a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. In addition to the well-documented lipid supplementation of the stratum corneum, the liquid crystal emulsions provide a significant chemical stabilization of vitamin C against its degradation. Emulsions were characterized by X-ray diffraction, polarized optical microscopy, and transmission electron microscopy. The stability of vitamin C in the formulations was evaluated upon storage in different conditions of temperature. The emulsions contain a complex colloidal structure, consisting of lamellar liquid crystalline (Lα) and crystalline lamellar gel (Lß) phases, that provide a very efficient protection of vitamin C against its degradation.

Pickering emulsions stabilized by biodegradable block copolymer micelles for controlled topical drug delivery.

Surfactant-free biocompatible and biodegradable Pickering emulsions were investigated as vehicles for skin delivery of hydrophobic drugs. O/w emulsions of medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil droplets loaded with all-trans retinol as a model hydrophobic drug were stabilized by block copolymer nanoparticles: either poly(lactide)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) (PLA-b-PEG) or poly(caprolactone)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) (PCL-b-PEG). Those innovative emulsions were prepared using two different processes allowing drug loading either inside oil droplets or inside both oil droplets and non-adsorbed block copolymer nanoparticles. Skin absorption of retinol was investigated in vitro on pig skin biopsies using the Franz cell method. Supplementary experiments by confocal fluorescence microscopy allowed the visualization of skin absorption of the Nile Red dye on histological sections. Retinol and Nile Red absorption experiments showed the large accumulation of hydrophobic drugs in the stratum corneum for the Pickering emulsions compared to the surfactant-based emulsion and an oil solution. Loading drug inside both oil droplets and block copolymer nanoparticles enhanced again skin absorption of drugs, which was ascribed to the supplementary contribution of free block copolymer nanoparticles loaded with drug. Such effect allowed tuning drug delivery to skin over a wide range by means of a suitable selection of either the formulation or the drug loading process.

Skin absorption of actinides: influence of solvents or chelates on skin penetration ex vivo.

PURPOSE: To evaluate skin penetration and retention of americium (Am) and plutonium (Pu), in different chemical forms relevant to the nuclear industry and to treatment by chelation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Percutaneous penetration of different Am and Pu forms were evaluated using viable pig skin with the Franz cell diffusion system. The behavior of the complex Pu-tributyl phosphate (Pu-TBP), Am or Pu complexed to the chelator Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and the effect of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) was assessed. Radioactivity was measured in skin and receiver compartments. Three approaches were used to visualize activity in skin including the recent iQID technique for quantification. RESULTS: Transfer of Am was 24-fold greater than Pu and Pu-TBP complex penetration was enhanced by 500-fold. Actinide-DTPA transfer was greater than the Am or Pu alone (17-fold and 148-fold, respectively). The stratum corneum retained the majority of activity in all cases and both DMSO and TBP enhanced skin retention of Am and Pu, respectively. Histological and bioimaging data confirmed these results and the iQID camera allowed the quantification of skin activity. CONCLUSIONS: Skin penetration and fixation profiles are different depending on the chemical actinide form. Altered behavior of Pu-TBP and actinide-DTPA complexes reinforces the need to address decontamination protocols.

Effects of solid particle content on properties of o/w Pickering emulsions.

The control of droplet size and stability of oil-in-water Pickering emulsions stabilized by hydrophobized fumed silica was investigated. Three regimes were observed according to the silica content: instability at low silica content, stable emulsions with droplet size controlled by the silica content, and emulsions of constant size set by the emulsification process at high silica concentrations. The oil-to-silica ratio was the relevant parameter of the size control in the medium concentration regime. Centrifugation experiments and particle size distribution measurements gave evidence of the presence of excess silica present as dispersion in the aqueous phase in the high silica content regime. Adsorption of silica to the droplet surface did not follow adsorption equilibrium; strong adsorption prevailed. Lastly, aggregation of silica particles appeared a crucial parameter. Oil adsorption and capillary condensation of oil within the silica aggregates provided a supplementary mechanism of silica aggregation that contributed to the stability of emulsions.