Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) Extract vs. Synthetic Surfactants-Effect on Skin-Mimetic Models.

Our skin is continuously exposed to different amphiphilic substances capable of interaction with its lipids and proteins. We describe the effect of a saponin-rich soapwort extract and of four commonly employed synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on different human skin models. Two human skin cell lines were employed: normal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (A375). The liposomes consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3, mimicking the cell membrane of keratinocytes and melanoma cells were employed as the second model. Using dynamic light scattering (DLS), the particle size distribution of liposomes was analyzed before and after contact with the tested (bio)surfactants. The results, supplemented by the protein solubilization tests (albumin denaturation test, zein test) and oil emulsification capacity (using olive oil and engine oil), showed that the soapwort extract affects the skin models to a clearly different extent than any of the tested synthetic surfactants. Its protein and lipid solubilizing potential are much smaller than for the three anionic surfactants (SLS, ALS, SLES). In terms of protein solubilization potential, the soapwort extract is comparable to CAPB, which, however, is much harsher to lipids.

Effect of saponins from quinoa on a skin-mimetic lipid monolayer containing cholesterol.

The study discusses the effect of a quinoa seed coat extract on a cholesterol-based Langmuir monolayer mimicking the intercellular lipid mixture in the skin's outermost layer - stratum corneum. Besides cholesterol (CHOL), the monolayer contains also stearic acid (SA) and ceramide VI (CER), in a molar ratio of 10:14:14. Three quinoa extracts were tested for their surface activity: a) from the whole seed, b) from the dehulled seed, and c) from the seed coat. The latter shows significantly higher ability to reduce surface tension (increase surface pressure) than the others. Its adsorbed layers display also reasonable surface dilational elasticity (storage) modulus, E'. These observations are in line with the literature reports on the high concentrations of triterpenoid glycosidic biosurfactants - saponins, in quinoa seed, especially in its coat. The saponin-rich extract of quinoa seed coat was thus introduced underneath the pre-formed lipid monolayer compressed to surface pressure, Π = 30 mN/m in a Langmuir trough, in order to register the surface pressure response. The increase of both the surface pressure and surface dilational elasticity modulus suggests that saponins, and possibly other surface-active components of the extract, incorporate into the model lipid monolayer, without solubilizing it. This opens new perspectives for the saponin-rich quinoa seed extract as skin penetration-enhancing active components for cosmetics or pharmaceutical purposes.

Effect of synthetic surfactants and soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) extract on skin-mimetic model lipid monolayers.

The effect of a saponin-rich extract from rhizomes of Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L) and four synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on two model lipid monolayers is analyzed using surface pressure, surface dilatational rheology and fluorescence microscopy. The following monolayers were employed: dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3 (DPPC/CHOL) and Ceramide [AP]/stearic acid/cholesterol in a molar ratio of 14:14:10 (CER/SA/CHOL). They mimicked a general bilayer structure and an intercellular lipid mixture, respectively. Both lipid mixtures on Milli-Q water were first compressed to the initial surface pressure, Π0 = 30 mN/m and then the subphase was exchanged with the respective (bio)surfactant solution at 1% (w/w). All four synthetic surfactants behaved in a similar way: they increased surface pressure to about 40 mN/m and reduced the storage modulus of surface dilational surface rheology, E', to the values close to zero. The corresponding fluorescence microscopy pictures confirmed that the lipids mimicking the stratum corneum components were almost completely removed by the synthetic surfactants under the present experimental conditions. The components of the Soapwort extract (SAP) increased surface pressure to significantly higher values than the synthetic surfactants, but even more spectacular increase was observed for the storage modulus of the SAP-penetrated lipid monolayers (up to E'= 715 mN/m).