RESUMEN
Collagen hydrolysates have been suggested as a favorable antiaging modality in skin photoaged by persistent exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV). The current study evaluated the beneficial effect of collagen hydrolysates (fsCH) extracted from Pangasius hypophthalmus fish skin on wrinkle formation and moisture preservation in dorsal skin of hairless mice challenged with UV-B. Inter-comparative experiments were conducted for anti-photoaging among fsCH, retinoic acid (RA), N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG), and glycine-proline-hydroxyproline (GPH). Treating human HaCaT keratinocytes with 100-200 µg/mL fsCH reciprocally ameliorated the expression of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and CD44 deranged by UV-B. The UV-B-induced deep furrows and skin thickening were improved in parched dorsal skin of mice supplemented with 206-412 mg/kg fsCH as well as RA and GPH. The UV-B irradiation enhanced collagen fiber loss in the dorsal dermis, which was attenuated by fsCH through enhancing procollagen conversion to collagen. The matrix metalloproteinase expression by UV-B in dorsal skin was diminished by fsCH, similar to RA and GPH, via blockade of collagen degradation. Supplementing fsCH to UV-B-irradiated mice decreased transepidermal water loss in dorsal skin with reduced AQP3 level and restored keratinocyte expression of filaggrin. The expression of hyaluronic acid synthase 2 and hyaluronidase 1 by UV-B was remarkably ameliorated with increased production of hyaluronic acid by treating fsCH to photoaged mice. Taken together, fsCH attenuated photoaging typical of deep wrinkles, epidermal thickening, and skin water loss, like NAG, RA, or GPH, through inhibiting collagen destruction and epidermal barrier impairment.