Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells.

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Evaluation of Halophyte Biopotential as an Unused Natural Resource: The Case of Lobularia maritima.

Halophytes are plant species widely distributed in saline habitats, such as beaches, postindustrial wastelands, irrigated lands, salt flats, and others. Excessive salt level, known to limit plant growth, is not harmful to halophytes, which have developed a variety of defense mechanisms allowing them to colonize harsh environments. Plants under stress are known to respond with several morpho-anatomical adaptations, but also to enhance the production of secondary metabolites to better cope with difficult conditions. Owing to these adaptations, halophytes are an interesting group of undemanding plants with a high potential for application in the food and pharmaceutical industries. Therefore, this review aims to present the characteristics of halophytes, describe changes in their gene expression, and discuss their synthesized metabolites of pharmacognostic and pharmacological significance. Lobularia maritima is characterized as a widely spread halophyte that has been shown to exhibit various pharmacological properties in vitro and in vivo. It is concluded that halophytes may become important sources of natural products for the treatment of various ailments and for supplementing the human diet with necessary non-nutrients and minerals. However, extensive studies are needed to deepen the knowledge of their biological potential in vivo, so that they can be introduced to the pharmaceutical and food industries.

Comparative Assessment of Phytochemical Compounds and Antioxidant Properties of Kernel Oil from Eight Sour Cherry (Prunus cerasus L.) Cultivars.

New plant oils as a potential natural source of nutraceutical compounds are still being sought. The main components of eight cultivars ('Koral', 'Lucyna', 'Montmorency', 'Naumburger', 'Wanda', 'Wigor', 'Wolynska', and 'Wróble') of sour cherry (Prunus cerasus L.) grown in Poland, including crude fat, protein, and oil content, were evaluated. The extracted oils were analysed for chemical and biological activity. The oils had an average peroxide value of 1.49 mEq O2/kg, acid value of 1.20 mg KOH/g, a saponification value of 184 mg of KOH/g, and iodine value of 120 g I2/100 g of oil. The sour cherry oil contained linoleic (39.1-46.2%) and oleic (25.4-41.0%) acids as the major components with smaller concentrations of α-eleostearic acid (8.00-15.62%), palmitic acid (5.45-7.41%), and stearic acid (2.49-3.17%). The content of sterols and squalene varied significantly in all the studied cultivars and ranged between 336-973 mg/100 g and 66-102 mg/100 g of oil. The contents of total tocochromanols, polyphenols, and carotenoids were 119-164, 19.6-29.5, and 0.56-1.61 mg/100 g oil, respectively. The cultivar providing the highest amounts of oil and characterised by the highest content of PUFA (including linoleic acid), plant sterols, α-and ß-tocopherol, as well as the highest total polyphenol and total carotenoids content was been found to be 'Naumburger'. The antioxidant capacity of sour cherry kernel oils, measured using the DPPH• and ABTS•+ methods, ranged from 57.7 to 63.5 and from 38.2 to 43.2 mg trolox/100 g oil, respectively. The results of the present study provide important information about potential possibilities of application of Prunus cerasus kernel oils in cosmetic products and pharmaceuticals offering health benefits.

Plant-Derived Antioxidants: Significance in Skin Health and the Ageing Process.

Natural substances have traditionally been used in skin care for centuries. There is now an ongoing search for new natural bioactives that not only promote skin health but also protect the skin against various harmful factors, including ultraviolet radiation and free radicals. Free radicals, by disrupting defence and restoration mechanisms, significantly contribute to skin damage and accelerate ageing. Natural compounds present in plants exhibit antioxidant properties and the ability to scavenge free radicals. The increased interest in plant chemistry is linked to the growing interest in plant materials as natural antioxidants. This review focuses on aromatic and medicinal plants as a source of antioxidant substances, such as polyphenols, tocopherols, carotenoids, ascorbic acid, and macromolecules (including polysaccharides and peptides) as well as components of essential oils, and their role in skin health and the ageing process.

Chemical and Nutritional Compounds of Different Parts of Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf.) Cultivated in Temperate Climate of Poland.

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf.) is a perennial plant indigenous to semi-tropical regions of Asia and cultivated in other semi-tropical countries. The present study aimed to examine the key chemical constituents of various parts of lemongrass cultivated in the temperate climate of Poland. The content of essential oil and its composition were determined in 4 plant parts: leaves (part C), overground shoots (part B), underground shoots (part A), and roots (part R). Moreover, the content of dry weight, chlorophyll, polyphenols and macro- and microelements was determined in the edible parts (excluding roots). The essential oil from the aerial part predominantly contained neral (> 30%) and geranial (> 40%), which is consistent with the data reported in literature; the main component of essential oil (EO) from the underground part was elemol (65%); interestingly, such a high concentration of it was found for the first time. The concentration of chlorophyll was found to be higher in leaves, as compared to parts B and A. The highest level of potassium, magnesium, zinc and sodium was found in part A while of calcium and copper in leaves. The quality of lemongrass raw materials grown in temperate climates did not differ significantly from those obtained in warmer regions. The study findings confirmed the usefulness of leaves as a raw material for the preparation of infusions (higher concentration of pigments, polyphenols and EO) and of near-ground parts of a plant as a culinary material (a higher content of macroelements at lower concentrations of green pigments and dry weight).

Chemical Composition and Antioxidant Properties of Oils from the Seeds of Five Apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) Cultivars.

Oils from five cultivars of apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) grown in Poland were analysed for characteristics of chemical and biological activity. The extracted oils had an average iodine value (g of I/100 g of oil) of 99.2; a refractive index of (40°C) 1.4675; a saponification value of 189 mg of KOH/g of oil; and 0.68% unsaponifiable matter. As regards the oxidation state, the specific extinction values of the oils at 232 and 268 nm were 2.55 and 0.94, respectively, while the peroxide value was 1.40 meq O2/kg and the p-anisidine value was 1.42. Oleic acid (70.70%) was the predominant fatty acid found in the oils, followed by linoleic (22.41%), palmitic (3.14%), stearic (1.4%), linolenic (0.90%), and palmitoleic (0.70%) acid. The content of α-, γ-, and δ- tocopherols in the oils from the five apricot cultivars was 19.6-40.0, 315.4-502.3, and 28.3-58.5 mg/kg, respectively. The antioxidant capacity of the apricot kernel oils, measured using the FRAP assay, ranged from 1.07 to 1.38 mM Fe2+/L, while total polyphenols and ß-carotene content were 0.85-1.22 mM gallic acid/L and 42.3-66.8 µg/g, respectively. The results indicate that among the cultivars tested, the 'Somo' cultivar grown in Poland provides the most oil, with the highest antioxidant activity. The results of our study demonstrate that apricot seeds are a potential source of oil that can have both dietary and cosmetic applications.