Towards a modern approach to traditional use of Helichrysum italicum in dermatological conditions: In vivo testing supercritical extract on artificially irritated skin.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Helichrysum italicum has been widely used in traditional medicine to treat allergies, colds, cough, skin, liver and gallbladder disorders, inflammation, infections, and sleeplessness. Furthermore, it possesses considerable wound healing and skin protective properties, documented by several in vivo studies performed on animals. However, there is a lack of experimental evidence supporting its potential as a topical agent tested by human clinical trials. AIM OF THE STUDY: The study aimed to investigate the skin protective activity of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric, impregnated with H. italicum extract by the integrated supercritical CO2 extraction-supercritical solvent impregnation process. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The integrated process of supercritical CO2 extraction of H. italicum and the impregnation of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric was performed under 350 bar and 40 °C with and without the addition of ethanol as a cosolvent. Impregnated textile materials were tested in vivo for their bioactivity on irritated human skin. Randomized in vivo studies performed involved assays of both safety and efficacy of the impregnated textiles. The effects were evaluated using the in vivo non-invasive biophysical measurements of the following skin parameters: electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, and skin pH. RESULTS: Both cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric were impregnated with H. italicum extracts under supercritical conditions with considerable values of the impregnation yield (1.97%-4.25%). The addition of ethanol as a cosolvent during the process caused significant changes in the incorporated extracts' impregnation yield and chemical profile. Both impregnated textile materials were safe, evaluated by their testing on the human skin with no cause of any irritation and redness. However, efficacy studies revealed that polypropylene non-woven fabric impregnated with H. italicum extract with ethanol as a cosolvent, possessed significantly greater potential for skin protection than the other investigated samples. CONCLUSIONS: The present study demonstrated the feasibility of the combined supercritical extraction and impregnation process in developing materials for topical application based on H. italicum extract. The results of in vivo studies performed on human volunteers confirmed the suitability of H. italicum active components to be a part of human skin protective preparations because of their ability to maintain the skin unimpaired. Traditionally claimed applications as a medicinal plant capable of regenerating skin have been scientifically proven, in addition to employing green technology in obtaining the impregnated materials with a broad spectrum of utilization.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration-In vitro and in vivo evaluation.

BACKGROUND: Wild apple fruit is rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products. AIM: The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12%, and 15% of extract EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application. METHODS: Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparison of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, and skin pH after 28 days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin. RESULTS: Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract EU (2001.57 ± 0.87 mg PP/100 g EU) and satisfactory in cream CE6 (53.83 ± 0.23 mg PP/100 g CE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28 days ΔEC was 21.19 ± 7.59, 26.71 ± 7.94, and 29.60 ± 10.95 for CE6, CE12, and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values. CONCLUSION: Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil).

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.