AGSE: A Novel Grape Seed Extract Enriched for PP2A Activating Flavonoids That Combats Oxidative Stress and Promotes Skin Health.

Environmental stimuli attack the skin daily resulting in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammation. One pathway that regulates oxidative stress in skin involves Protein Phosphatase 2A (PP2A), a phosphatase which has been previously linked to Alzheimer's Disease and aging. Oxidative stress decreases PP2A methylation in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). Thus, we hypothesize agents that increase PP2A methylation and activity will promote skin health and combat aging. To discover novel inhibitors of PP2A demethylation activity, we screened a library of 32 natural botanical extracts. We discovered Grape Seed Extract (GSE), which has previously been reported to have several benefits for skin, to be the most potent PP2A demethylating extract. Via several fractionation and extraction steps we developed a novel grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), which is enriched for PP2A activating flavonoids that increase potency in preventing PP2A demethylation when compared to commercial GSE. We then determined that 1% AGSE and 1% commercial GSE exhibit distinct gene expression profiles when topically applied to a 3D human skin model. To begin to characterize AGSE's activity, we investigated its antioxidant potential and demonstrate it reduces ROS levels in NHDFs and cell-free assays equal to or better than Vitamin C and E. Moreover, AGSE shows anti-inflammatory properties, dose-dependently inhibiting UVA, UVB and chemical-induced inflammation. These results demonstrate AGSE is a novel, multi-functional extract that modulates methylation levels of PP2A and supports the hypothesis of PP2A as a master regulator for oxidative stress signaling and aging in skin.

HYVIA™: A novel, topical chia seed extract that improves skin hydration.

BACKGROUND: Chia seeds have gained importance as it is the highest known plant source of omega-3 (ω3) polyunsaturated fatty acids. Specifically, chia seeds possess ω3 α-linolenic acid (ALA) and ω6 linoleic acid (LA), together known as Vitamin F, which play an important role in maintaining skin function. Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in skin barrier function and its activity is modulated by natural lipids. AIMS: Obtain a chia seed extract (HYVIA™) with significant higher levels of Vitamin F, determine in vitro PP2A activity and skin hydration markers compared to other commercial chia seed extracts (CCSEs), and evaluate the potential skin hydration benefits clinically in human subjects. METHODS: A PP2A demethylation assay was utilized to assess PP2A activity. In vitro studies utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were treated with HYVIA™ and gene expression of hydration markers (AQP3, HAS2) were measured by quantitative PCR (qPCR). A 16-subject clinical trial was performed with 0.1% HYVIA™ formulated in a cream and applied topically to assess its skin moisturizing potential. RESULTS: We demonstrate here that HYVIA™, ALA, and LA inhibit PP2A demethylation, boosting PP2A activity, while most other CCSEs do not. Unlike other CCSEs, HYVIA™ increases keratinocyte hydration factors aquaporin-3 and hyaluronic acid synthase-2 in vitro. Clinical assessment of 0.1% HYVIA™ cream shows that HYVIA™ improves skin hydration. CONCLUSIONS: HYVIA™ is a novel chia seed extract, enriched for Vitamin F, that modulates PP2A activity and clinically improves skin hydration and barrier function.

SIG1273: a new cosmetic functional ingredient to reduce blemishes and Propionibacterium acnes in acne prone skin.

BACKGROUND: Propionibacterium acnes is a major contributing factor to the inflammatory component of acne. The interaction of P. acnes with keratinocytes leads to an innate immune response via activation of toll-like receptors (TLR2, TLR4) resulting in the production and secretion of pro-inflammatory mediators. SIG1273, an isoprenylcysteine small molecule modulates inflammatory signaling pathways and kills P. acnes. SIG1273 represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides relief from blemishes in acne prone skin. OBJECTIVE: To assess the keratinocyte response and microbial growth of SIG1273 in vitro and evaluate the tolerability of SIG1273 gel applied topically in acne prone subjects. METHODS: For in vitro studies, human keratinocytes were exposed in culture to live P. acnes and peptidoglycan (PGN) to induce IL-8 production. P. acnes were cultured to determine minimal inhibitory concentration and minimal bactericidal concentration values. A total of 30 subjects were randomized in a double-blind controlled trial receiving 3% SIG1273 gel or vehicle for 6 weeks. Evaluation included inflammatory lesions, noninflammatory lesions, microcomedones, Sebutape scores, and P. acnes counts. RESULTS: In vitro studies demonstrate SIG1273 inhibits P. acnes-induced IL-8 production and inhibits P. acnes growth. SIG1273 gel was well tolerated with no signs of stinging, redness, or itching. Furthermore, improvement in some aspects of acne was observed in subjects applying SIG1273 gel, including inflammatory lesions, microcomedone counts and Sebutape scores. Facial scrubs taken to measure P. acnes colony-forming units showed those applying SIG1273 gel had ~1.0 Log 10 colony reduction over the length of the study, a statistically significantly improvement when compared with vehicle. No significant effects above vehicle were observed for noninflammatory lesions. CONCLUSIONS: SIG1273 represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a safe dual modulating benefit to individuals with acne prone skin by reducing P. acnes counts and reducing inflammation.